Tragedy on K2, 2009 climbing season.

Breaking news: Italian skier Michele Fait lost on K2.

Jun 24, 2009
(K2Climb.net/Madrid) Italian Michele Fait fell to his death yesterday while skiing down from K2’s C2 Michele Fait Newon the SSE spur. Together with mate Fredrik Ericsson, Fait was on his second partial descent down K2’s slopes, when suddenly fell, witnesses in BC reported. The news has been confirmed by Fait’s local outfitter Muhammad Ali to ExWeb correspondant in Islamabad, Karrar Haidri.

“While on descent, the worst scenario possible happened – Fait plummeted,” climber Sean Wisedale reported from BC. “Ericsson was skiing lower down the slopes and after he had seen Fait falling, began to haul upwards to get to him. At Base Camp we watched, unsure if the fall had been fatal or not. We started to build a make-do stretcher and prepared to assist with the rescue efforts. Our leader Fabrizio (Zangrilli?) headed out back up the middle of the glacier. We watched as Ericsson and Fabrizio reached Fait’s limp body 20 minutes later and began to lower him down to the base of the route.”

According to reports, there was nothing rescuers could do, but to confirm the Michele’s death. Fait’s remains recovery was interrupted later that day due to high avalanche risk.

A new attempt to recover the body was performed today. “We left base camp at 07h00 this morning,” Wisedale reported on his latest update today. “The weather was perfect but there was a wind building from the west. Wim, Wilky, Jake, Fabrizio, Tunc, Dave, Fredrik (Michele’s skiing partner), Dave from the German expedition and I set out. His remains have been wrapped and buried. 9 strong men stood in respect of a fellow mountain man. God bless Michele Fait – may he rest in peace.”

Michele Fait, from Trentino, hoped to climb K2 without supplementay O2 and then ski down from the summit, teaming up with Swedish Fredrik Ericsson. He had previously summited GII and Shisha Pangma, and had attempted K2 for the first time back in 2004.

* see – Tragedy in the Himalaya, 2009 climbing season.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.2.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009.

Jubileuszowa wyprawa Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Broad Peak _ Pawłowski 2009 New

Cel:

Celem wyprawy jest wspinaczka na Broad Peak (8047m) – w 25 rocznicę zdobycia tego szczytu przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Termin realizacji :

Wyprawa startuje z kilkudniowym opóźnieniem (miała się rozpocząć 5 czerwca). a  rozpocznie się 12.06.2009 i potrwa do 01.08.2009

Opis wyprawy:

Wejście na szczyt jest przewidziane drogą normalną, drogą pierwszych zdobywców.

Dla Ryszarda Pawłowskiego będzie to swoisty jubileusz ponieważ 25 lat wcześniej zdobył Broad Peak i był to wtedy jego pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik.

Dla Piotra Snopczyńskiego to już kolejny ośmiotysięcznik do zdobycia.

Natomiast pozostali uczestnicy wyprawy będą zdobywać Broad Peak jak swój pierwszy ośmiotysięcznik, choć należy podkreślić, że wszyscy oni mają już doświadczenie z wielu wypraw  na inne szczyty organizowanych właśnie przez Ryszarda Pawłowskiego.

Uczestnicy :

pawlowski-male.jpgRyszard Pawłowski - Lider
urodzony w 1950 roku, zodiakalny Rak, ale Tygrys według horoskopu chińskiego, inżynier elektryk, instruktor alpinizmu, przewodnik górski.

Wziął udział w ponad 200 wyprawach w różne góry świata jako uczestnik lub organizator. Zdobył dziesięć szczytów ośmiotysięcznych, m.in. K2 (8611 m n.p.m.) płn. filarem. Jest jedynym Polakiem, który trzykrotnie stanął na szczycie Mt. Everestu (8848 m n.p.m.) 5/13/94, 5/12/95, 5/18/99.

Sylwetka himalaisty :

- Ryszard Pawłowski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

Zespół : Agenor Gawrzyał, Andrzej Życzkowski (KW Gliwice), Henryk Szczęsny, Piotr Snopczyński, Ryszard Zawada.

Urodzinowe życzenia.

Dziś urodziny lidera wyprawy – Ryszarda Pawłowskiego , któremu składam serdeczne życzenia, przede wszystkim zdrowia i dobrej pogody aby udało się zdobycie szczytu na tej jubileuszowej wyprawie.

tort 100 lat w zdrowiu i wielu udanych wejść na szczyty gór.

Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy.

23.06.2009 – relacja : Andrzej Życzkowski.

Doszliśmy do bazy 4950m w pięknej pogodzie.
Jutro 24-go urodziny lidera. Oj będzie się działo :)

19.06.2009 – relacja : Ryszard Pawłowski.

Doszliśmy do Paiju 3350m. Pogoda ładna nastroje wspaniałe :). Otworzymy butelkę whisky bo jutro mamy dzień restu.Pozdrowienia

Organizator wyprawy :

Źródło : – http://www.patagonia.com.pl/

* zobacz też :

- posty o wyprawach Ryszarda Pawłowskiego, kliknij Ryszard Pawłowski.

- Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition 2009 – relacje z wyprawy cz.1.

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /23/ – Week in Review.

Bad weather has been punishing climbers in Baltoro valley. Nanga images show serious avalanches on the peak and conditions on K2 are even worse than on Broad Peak according to the French climbers, currently on yet another summit push. Nanga Parbat New

Last week ExWeb ran a number of interviews and climbers paid tributes to lost friends. Only two expeditions remain on Greenland while outside Somalia, Pirates are changing their ways.

Broad Peak summit push Ludovic Giambasi, Eli Revol and Antoine Girard planned to set off towards Broad Peak’s S and SE ridges today Monday, for another summit push.

Iran for a new route Arash Mountaineers Club’s climbers led by Kiyoumars Babazadeh and supported by Abbaas Mohammadi, the new head of the Iran Alpine Club, hope to open a new route on Broad Peak’s SW side.

2008 South Korean K2 expedition back to Karakoram Last year, Go Mi-sun and Korean leader Kim Jae-soo summited K2. On descent, 5 of their expedition members perished. Three of the former expedition members are now returning to Karakoram. Following her Makalu-Kangchenjunga-Dhaulagiri triple this spring, Go and regular partner Kim are headed for both Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat. With Annapurna in fall, Go hopes to bag no less than 7, 8000er summits this year.

The third member of the 2008 Korean K2 expedition Pasang Lama is also headed for both Gasherbrums, as a member in Altitude Junkies/Project-Himalaya team. Pasang summited Makalu and Lhotse this past spring.

More Gasherbrums The GIII/GIV team plans to establish an advanced base camp at 6000 meters and ventured up to 6300 meters last week to study the icefall in an attempt to determine the best way to make it into the cwm. Others who arrived BC on Sunday were happy to find the route through the icefall and up to camp one already fixed by Don Bowie, Bruce Normand, Guy McKinnon, William (Billy) Pierson and David Fält. An 11 member team from Tehran is on the way to GII, while recent Piolet d’Or winner Kazuya Hiraide is waiting in Hunza for Finnish Veikka Gustafsson before the two will set off towards GI in a few days time.

K2 A number of teams have reached K2 BC. Gerlinde and David survived a close call, when the team’s Jeep rolled back and fell down a cliff. Chilean climber Santiago Quintero is en route, without porters or supplementary O2. Having suffered serious frostbite years ago, Santiago’s project is called “K2 sin D2” (K2 without toes). Fredrik Ericsson and Michele Fait were denied permit to Laila Peak and went straight to K2. Nepal-based Rolwaing Excursion agency (founded by last year’s K2 summiteer Chhiring Dorje Sherpa) sent a note that before Serap Jangbu Sherpa, two Sherpas summited K2 in 1997.

Gerfried & Co in Nanga Parbat C1 Gerfried Göschl and his team were first to arrive in Nanga Parbat’s BC this year and have set up C1. A pic of the camp shot by Giuseppe Pompili shows serious avalanche paths nearby. Portuguese Joao Garcia and South Korean Miss Oh’s team are among other arrivals in Nanga’s BC.

Spantik: Pakistani lady climber Two Pakistani and a Dane make up the joint Pakistan-Danish Spantik expedition. “Remarkably, my fellow Pakistani mate is a girl – who may become the first local female climber to reach above 7,000 meters,” team leader Mirza Ali told ExplorersWeb.

Farewell to friends: Fellow Australian climbers and expedition mates praised Australian Mick Parker’s mountaineering values last week. Italian climber and polar trekker Michele Pontrandolfo submitted a tribute to Dr. Giuliano De Marchi, recently perished while ski-touring in the Dolomites. In Sichuan, the search for the third missing climber, Micah Dash, was called off last week. Fellow American climbers Eric DeCaria, Nick Martino, Steve Su, Pete Takeda, Nick Rosen and Mick Follari – who traveled to China to help coordinate search efforts – created a ceremony in Qongding for Micah, Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson.

ExWeb interview with Lena Laletina: the Russian view A bio-physicist and long time collaborator with ExplorersWeb; in an unique interview series last week Lena Laletina of RussianClimb.com unveiled the Russian take on climbing, politics, and media. Lena described the evolution from Soviet to Russian mountaineering; reflected on today’s ‘Brave New World'; and listed her own favorite climbers.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Beginner’s Guide to Climbing – Indoor Rock Climbing.

Indoor Rock Climbing – Meet the World of Plastic.

Learn how to climb safely and get proper instruction inside one of the climbing gyms in your area.Climbing with Mike _200

by Mike

INDOOR ROCK CLIMBING — Climbing indoors is just what it sounds like—you simply are climbing indoors instead of climbing outdoors. Simple-sounding, but the term indoor climbing covers from closet and basement “woodies” to enormous and elaborate climbing walls in gyms.

INDOOR ROCK CLIMBING 2 Indoor rock climbing centre. (www.cliffhanger.com.au)

You can build your own woodie with some plywood and screws, turning a room in your house or a wall in the attic or basement into your own training area. All indoor climbing is basically the same because you are climbing on manufactured holds bolted to plywood.

The plywood in gyms and home gyms alike are attached to a metal or wood frame and holds are bolted or screwed on. The holds can be turned or rotated to any which way desired, to turn a bucket hold into a sloper, or a crimper into an under cling.

indoor rock climbing 1a Indoor rock climbing centre. (www.musclememory.ca)

The holds can be positioned to make a “route” which can be marked with tape to show which holds can be touched and which ones are off-limits. Textured paint is available to give the wall a sandstone appearance and allow smearing with your climbing shoes.

Routes are usually an arms-width wide and can run to the top of the wall or even traverse the entire rock-climbing-holdslength of the wall. A really neat feature of indoor climbing is that a route can be changed to make the climb as easy or as hard as you want it to be; the holds can even be put up to duplicate a tough route you may be working on outside. This allows you to practice inside when the weather turns sour, or if winter affects your neck of the woods.

Climbing gyms are fabulous places to start learning how to climb. Some gyms have classes you can take with qualified and sometimes even certified instructors. Gyms let you practice using climbing gear and learn proper technique in a safe environment.

Most climbing gyms have routes that are top roped, but some have walls you can practice leading on. Leading a route in a gym can be much less nerve-wracking than your first lead outside; there is a big difference between leading a route and top roping the same route.

You may notice that some climbing gyms have campus routes. Campus boards are thin slats of wood put up the wall in a ladder-like fashion. The climber grips the campus board with his finger tips and essentially pulls up to the next rung. No feet are used, so as a word of caution to the beginning climber—make sure you have adequate finger strength before you start on the campus boards. Finger injuries are all too common and irreversible nerve and tendon damage may occur. Taping finger joints can help prevent this, but avoiding campus boards for the first little while would be best.

Indoor climbing is its own sport in the vast world of climbing with many climbing competitions and even cash prizes. There are many climbers who don’t care to climb outside or live where boulders and cliffs don’t exist. Indoor climbing is a great way to practice tough moves or just hang out when the weather isn’t cooperating. Also, many hours of fun and learning are to be had climbing indoors. Enough said…to the plastic!!

* Source : – http://www.outdoorswithdave.com/climbing/indoor_rock_climbing.htm

** Previous story  :  – Beginner’s Guide to Climbing.

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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