Pakistan wrap-up: climbers push altitude through winter storm.

(Newsdesk – http://www.explorersweb.com – Posted: Jan 25, 2012)
A blizzard is punishing the 8000ers in Pakistan but that doesn’t stop mountaineers striving for their virgin winter summits. Simone and Denis headed back up on Nanga Parbat today, an overdue airlift was done from K2 BC, and the international team is at work on Gasherbrum 1.

K2

The sun came out on K2 yesterday, but only because a fierce wind blew the clouds away. Nick Totmjanin and a few mates who had gone up to fix the route above C2 were forced down in the gale.

A heli managed to land in BC and evacuate Vladimir Belous this morning. Descending without crampons from camp 1 in a hurricane last week, the climber suffered frostbite on four fingers according to expedition Doc Serguey Bychkovsky.

Nanga Parbat

Simone and Denis left BC today in the hard wind with a carry to 6800m hoping to spend a night in what will be camp 2. Expedition photographer Matteo Zanga shot awesome pics of the climbers vanishing into the blizzard.

GI

International team leader Gerfried Goschl reached BC at 5,000 meters on foot 2 days ahead of plans.

“As the weather looked pretty good for winter conditions and we felt fit, Cedric Hahlen, Darek Zaluski, Tamara Stys, Nisar Hussain and I went on a reconnaissance trip right on the day after arrival,” Gerfried reported. The group carried ropes and gear up to 5650 meters.

Yesterday Alex and Carlos planned to take the next working shift hoping to reach 6,000m.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog

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Winter Pakistan: Russians rebuild C1 and C2 in blizzard, GI teams in BC.

(Angela Benavides – http://www.explorersweb.com – Posted: Jan 23, 2012)
There’s no brake for the Russians on K2, foul food floored Simone Moro on Nanga Parbat, and both G1 expeditions have reached BC.

K2: 30 minutes of sun in two weeks

It’s an uneven battle on K2. Over the past four days three Russians refixed the rute up to C2, while a second group rebuilt C1 and C2. Conditions however remain extremely tough. “(We have) overcast skies, strong wind, cold – and the forecast predicts the same in the nearest days,” the team reported. High winds also thwarted all attempts to fix the route above C2.

“Yesterday, close to the evening, the sun appeared on the sky for 30 minutes,” the men reported. “We hadn’t seen the sun since Jan, 12.” And then the storm returned.

Last weekend was also Alexey Bolotov’s birthday and the team issued the following tribute to him: “Alex is a highly experienced mountaineer of awesome energy, a reliable team mate, and we’re proud that he’s with us.”

Gasherbrum I: BC-ho!

After a fast trek both the Polish and the international team reached BC on Saturday. Temperatures in the tent that evening hit -25ºC, Alex Txikon told his home team.

“Thick fog didn’t let us see K2 or GIV on the way,” wrote the Polish climbers. “In the evening of arrival though, the sky cleared up and we saw our goal, GII, for the first time. We plan to spend two days organizing BC before going up,” they said.

Nanga Parbat

After working to 5,800m, Denis and Simone hoped to go back up today but food-poisoning last night forced the climbers to hold up. “Any action at high altitude demands top physical shape – most of all if the ‘action’ ahead is a long route on Nanga Parbat’s west face” Denis said.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Dan Mazur – very successful season on Everest and the Himalayan peaks.

Dan Mazur sent me a letter

Greetings to you, Mountain Adventurer Himalman

Hi this is Dan Mazur, just back from a very successful season on Everest and the Himalayan peaks of Tibet and Nepal with a friendly group of men and women of all ages. I am writing to you from a gorgeous stormy north Pacific ocean side near to high mountains. The 4000 metre / 13,000 foot peaks towering above me are covered with glistening thick white glacier blankets tempting skiers, walkers, and climbers. Down here on the coastline, snow lies heavily in the trees and waves crash on the rocky beach in front of my house. Sea birds and gulls soar and call in the mist, waiting for the lowering tide to expose fresh crabs, while fur seals and whales hungrily circle schools of black-mouth salmon.

Believe it or not, I am working in the office and encourage you to contact me now for a chat about joining me during our next journey on 8th April, 2012, to the Himalayas in peaceful, beautiful, friendly, and uncrowded Tibet and Nepal.

We also have upcoming trips throughout the year in Africa, China, and South America, as well as the September-December season in Nepal and Tibet.

I invite you and your friends to join me and our team this year as we are going to have a very enjoyable and adventurous time in the mountains.

I will be leading my 9th Everest expedition, as well as basecamp treks, Everest training climbs, trips to Africa, and Glacier Schools. Welcome to the team!

Do you have any questions or ideas? Please feel free to email, telephone, skype, and facebook me.

I work for SummitClimb and SummitTrek, now in their 21st year, and it seems that 2011 was their most successful year ever. I was lucky enough to lead a team to the summit of Everest, in addition to several climbs and treks. We had 8 out of 8 members (100%) on the summit of Everest from Tibet and 5 out of 6 on the summit from Nepal. In fact, all of our big peak expeditions put their members on the summits, all treks reached basecamp, and all training climbs and mid-size mountain trips achieved their objectives.

My employers are avid mountain climbers and walkers, so they maintain their focus on providing the highest quality trip at the lowest cost. They never charge more than they would be willing to pay themselves. Please check out their payment options including accepting credit cards for 100% of your payment!

In addition, I must say I feel lucky to be working for a company that cares, with a strong focus on giving back to the poor families who live near Everest and helping with health, education, environmental and cultural preservation.

I look forward to speaking to you about Mountains, our favourite subject, to meeting, to climbing to the Summit together and to trekking and training together with you in 2012.

Please call me now for a chat. I am waiting to speak to you on +44 (0)7810375400 in the UK or +1 360-570-0715 in the US, DanielMazur@SummitClimb.com , http://www.FaceBook.com/DanielLeeMazur , Skype: Dan.Mazur8848 .

DURING APRIL AND MAY OF 2012, I INVITE YOU AND YOUR FRIENDS TO JOIN ME ON THE SUMMIT AND BASECAMP OF EVEREST, where in 2011 our friendly and very well organized expedition of leaders and Sherpas put 8 out of 8 members and 6 sherpas on the summit. We visit Everest and her surrounding peaks in just over 10 weeks on April 8th. The Nepal and Tibet season begins in early April through June, then again in September through December. These seasons have the best weather and life is quiet, peaceful, and friendly out in the Himalaya.

ARE YOU FEELING CHALLENGED BY THE ECONOMY? We run our trips as efficiently as possible. If our prices seem low, this is because we are now in our 21st year of leading climbs and treks with friendly and fun groups of men and women of all ages. We have developed deep connections with the mountaineering and trekking sectors in Nepal and Tibet. It is our objective to continue offering affordable, safe, friendly, enjoyable, and successful climbing expeditions and walks.

PLEASE READ ALL OF THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM OF THIS EMAIL TO DISCOVER FULL-SERVICE ADVENTURE IN THE HIMALAYA, ACONCAGUA, AND AFRICA DURING 2012.

NEPAL AND TIBET NEWS: Nepal and Tibet are very peaceful, calm, quiet and alluring at the moment. Tourist numbers are at pre-2008 levels due to the global economy. The political situation is very stable and back to normal. It’s a perfect time to visit, so please come on over. Welcome to our team!

NEWS FLASH: Our climbs and walks now include free hotels, free internal flights, free sherpas, and free oxygen on Everest and Lhotse.

GENEROUS DISCOUNTS are now on offer for groups of 2 or more, “BASIC CLIMBERS”, mountain guides, leaders in training, returning members, medical professionals, educators, etcetera.

PAYMENT NEWS: *Special Notice* – Worried about making full payment? Charge 100% of your expedition to your credit card. Earn valuable points and pay off the balance gradually over time. Please visit http://www.SummitClimbPayment.com.

INEXPENSIVE PLANE TICKETS ARE STILL EASY TO FIND: Please email or telephone me and I will gladly assist you in locating these.

EVEREST NEWS: For Everest climbers, we are now giving FREE OXYGEN, no charge for a five-bottle set.

EVEREST NEPAL BASECAMP WALK NEWS: 30% REDUCED PRICE! : Join Arnold Coster in April and May in 2012 for an affordable world famous basecamp trek. Spaces still available so join now! PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE DOMESTIC FLIGHTS, AND FREE HOTELS.

EVEREST GLACIER SCHOOL & MERA PEAK NEWS: 15% REDUCED PRICE! Remote walking and easy climbing with the best views of Everest. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE DOMESTIC FLIGHTS, AND FREE HOTELS.

COMMISSIONS FOR SENDING US NEW MEMBERS: Please tell your friends and receive a cash commission for everyone you send us.

“HELP WANTED” : Are you a mountain guide or would you like to become one? Please join the fun and earn a big discount at our http://www.LeaderInTraining.com .

GIVING BACK TO THOSE IN NEED: If you are interested in the charity and service side, please get involved via donating to the http://www.MountEverestFoundation.org to support and work together with local families living near Everest with hospitals, schools, environmental, and cultural preservation. If you feel the need to get your hands dirty and help, dig in with our twice yearly http://www.EverestServiceWalk.org and http://www.RemoteNepalServiceWalk.org .

NOW IS THE TIME: Please indicate your 2012 interests very soon as we are currently gathering applications and filling out the permit applications. Welcome to our expedition and I look forward to chatting, meeting, and to walking and climbing together with you in 2012.

7 SUMMITS NEWS: In addition to Everest, in February 2012, you are invited to join me for a trip to Africa, where I am very excited to be leading a Walk to the top of Kilimanjaro (another of the famous 7-Summits), Climbing and Walking on Mt. Kenya, and Wildlife Safaris. Here is where our enjoyable team will be in February, you are welcome to join me and the gang, thanks for letting me know this week or next: http://www.AfricaSummitClimb.com . This is a fantastic Training Climb for Everest.

Also, we have a climb of Aconcagua, the famous 7-Summit and highest in all of the Americas. Would you like to join in February? Our top leader Max Kausch is very qualified, relaxed, and an excellent leader. Just a few places are left, so please do let me know in the next few days: http://www.AconcaguaSummitClimb.com . Get in top shape and prepare for Everest.

Here is a QUICK LIST of the excitement on offer for 2012:

EVEREST TIBET SUMMIT: Join Dan Mazur in April and May. 2011 100% summit success. Basic Cost $12,750, £7,950, €9,250. Full Service $27,450, £16,850, €19,850;

EVEREST NEPAL SUMMIT: Join Arnold Coster in April and May. 2011 5 out of 6 on the summit. Basic $19,850, £12,250, €14,450. Full Serv $35,450, £21,950, €25,750;

EVEREST TIBET TRAINING CLIMB AND NORTH COL: Join Dan Mazur in April and May. Climb to 7000m. 28 days. Full Service $7850, £4850, €5650;

EVEREST NEPAL CAMP 3 TRAINING CLIMB: Join Arnold Coster in April and May. 31 days. Full Service $8650, £5350, €6250. 16 days: $6350, £3850, €4350;

EVEREST GLACIER SCHOOL: Join Sange Sherpa in April, May, and October. 22 days. REDUCED PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150, Seven day option: $1450, £950, €1050;

EVEREST TIBET ADVANCED BASECAMP WALK: Join Dan Mazur in April and May. 20 days. Best Everest Views. Full Service: $3,850, £2,350, €2,750;

EVEREST NEPAL BASECAMP WALK: Join Arnold Coster in April, May, and October. 18 days. World famous basecamp. NEW REDUCED PRICE! Full Service: $1850, £1150, €1450;

CHO OYU CLIMB: Join Max Kausch in May & Sept. 38 days. Best preparation for Everest. Basic: $7,150, £4,450, €5,150. Full Service: $11,850, £7,350, €8,550;

LHOTSE CLIMB: Join Arnold Coster in April and May. 2011 100% summit success. Basic Cost: $6,850, £4,250, €4,950. Full Service: $14,850, £9,250, €10,750;

MUSTAGATA CLIMB: Join Jon Otto. 24 days in July. Walk, Climb, Ski, Board, Snowshoe, Raquette. Basic: $2750, £1650, €1950. Full: $5450, £3350, €3750;

AMA DABLAM CLIMB: Max Kausch. 29 days in Oct and Nov. Nepal’s famous technical-climbable rock + ice: Basic: $3250, £1950, €2250. Full: $6850, £4250, €4750;

BARUNTSE CLIMB: Join Dan Mazur. 34 days in Oct and Nov. 3 peaks in one, grand circuit in Everest region. Full Service: $7,650, £4,750, €5,550;

MERA PEAK TREK: Join Dan Mazur for 22 days in Oct. Remote walking and easy climbing best views of Everest. REDUCED PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150;

SHISHAPANGMA CLIMB: Join Dan Mazur in Sept – Oct. 38 days. Remote Tibet. Basic: $7,150, £4,450, €5150. Full Service: $11,850, £7,350, €8,550. 20% off for Cho Oyu combo;

SEATTLE GLACIER SCHOOL: Join Dan Mazur in July. 7 days of gear prep, shopping, train + attempt a 14,000 ft/4000 metre peak. Free!

ALPS MEET: Join Dan Mazur in Feb. 1 week of skiing/boarding and 1 week of ice + snow climbing in the French Alps. Free of Cost!

SERVICE WALKS TO EVEREST + REMOTE NEPAL. Join Dan Mazur in June and Nov. Assist locals w/schools, health, environment + culture exchange;

KILIMANJARO TREK, MOUNT KENYA CLIMB, SAFARI: Join Dan Mazur for 7-Summit and exotic walks, climbs, safaris in Feb and Aug;

ACONCAGUA CLIMB: 7-Summit, highest in the Americas in January + February with expert leader. 20 days in Jan-Feb. Cheap Price: $2950 £1850 €2150;

NOW IN THEIR 21ST YEAR, http://www.SummitClimb.com and http://www.SummitTrek.com have built up some of the best, if I may say so, most knowledgeable and helpful, most qualified British, American, European, and Australian leaders, technically trained expert and friendly Sherpas, skillful cooks, delicious food, comfortable hotels, cozy basecamps, excellent tents, ropes, oxygen sets, climbing and safety equipment, and an extremely succesful track record.

WELL ORGANISED, GOOD VALUE and EXCELLENT TRACK RECORD: When comparing options please carefully check what is on offer and prior performance. I have worked for many different companies during my climbing career, and I feel that SummitClimb and SummitTrek offer the best organisation, very good value for money, and unmatched summit success. For example, all of their expeditions put members on the summit (and all of their treks, walks and training climbs reached their objectives) during 2011. Many teams had 100% success! SummitClimb and SummitTrek continue to focus on the following in 2012:

*** OUR PHILOSOPHY of encouraging people to explore and enjoy mountains by reducing our prices and opening up more affordable opportunities to train, learn, share, and explore the sport of mountain climbing and walking.

***AFFORDABLE EQUIPMENT PURCHASE ADVICE. As part of our enhanced customer service, we go over your equipment personally with you and advise you about the best types of gear and locations to purchase.

***OUR CHO OYU, SHISHAPANGMA, AND NORTH COL EVEREST TRAINING CLIMB PRICES HAVE BEEN DRASTICALLY REDUCED. There is no better preparation for Everest than Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. From the North Col or the Camp 3 Training Climb you could achieve a personal altitude record and even transition directly to Everest.

***NOT SURE ABOUT YOUR SKILLS AND EXPERIENCE? Our leaders can evaluate your abilities and teach you everything you need to know. Send us an email, facebook message, skype, or telephone us to discuss your goals and dreams!

***PREPARING FOR EVEREST? WE NOW OFFER 3 EVEREST TRAINING CLIMBS, including the Everest View Glacier School, awarded National Geographic Adventures ’25 Best New Trips’ where the focus is on gaining skills, working with the leaders and sherpas, and learning to use all of the equipment you need to get to the top. We offer everything from 6 day to 31 day trips where you can test yourself at high altitude, and progress onto Everest, Lhotse, or Cho Oyu.

***JOIN ONE OF OUR EVEREST TRAINING CLIMBS, AND, IF YOU FEEL WELL ENOUGH, YOU COULD EVEN CLIMB EVEREST OR LHOTSE ON THE SPOT, AT NO ADDITIONAL COST.

***FOR “TREKKING PEAK” ENTHUSIASTS who prefer a bit of walking combined with adventurous short climbs of 6000 metre / 20,000 foot high “trekking peaks”, we welcome you to join our fun teams, expert leaders, and top sherpas for Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya, Lobuche Peak, Mera Peak, and Island Peak.

***LOVE SKIING, BOARDING, SNOWSURFING AND SNOWSHOEING? Please come and join us for Alps Meet, Mustagata, Mera Peak, and Cho Oyu.

***LOOKING FOR INTERMEDIATE HEIGHT MOUNTAINS? Enjoy our extensive 7000 metre / 23,000 foot high peak programme including Aconcagua, North Col, Everest Camp 3, Mustagata, Ama Dablam and Baruntse.

***MORE INTERESTED IN GENTLE AND BEAUTIFUL HIMALAYAN WALKS AND CULTURAL TOURS? We have a wide variety of fascinating walks and opportunities to explore the Himalaya, whether you wish to visit the world’s most famous basecamp, remote valleys where tourists seldom tread, or bring needed supplies to poor families living in rural villages near to, but on the “wrong side” of Mount Everest.

***SEE TIBET BEFORE IT CHANGES. We have worked very hard to develop good relations with Tibetans to keep the doors open and each year we are able to consistently obtain permission for all of our climbs and walks to visit Tibet. For example, during 2012 we have a series of exciting Tibetan adventures from the Summit of Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, the North Col, as well as a wide variety of fascinating training trips, stunning basecamp and advanced basecamp walks and cultural explorations.

***LEADER IN TRAINING PROGRAM. NEW FOR 2012: We have revamped our program and now encourage existing and aspiring mountain leaders and guides to join us to share their knowledge and to learn about how to assist everyone in discovering the wonders of high places. If you are already a mountain leader or wish to become one, please examine http://www.LeaderInTraining.com .

***DO YOU PREFER CLIMBING INDEPENDENTLY AND DOING THINGS ON YOUR OWN? Please check out our **BASIC CLIMBS**, open to individuals who want to “do their own thing” and prefer a high level of autonomy and extremely low cost, yet still benefit from well-organized permits, transport logistics, advice about where and what equipment and supplies to obtain, walkie talkie and satphone communications, rescue, medical, fixed ropes, tent and camp security, etcetera.

***HOW SERIOUS ARE WE ABOUT GIVING BACK TO PEOPLE WHO LOVE MOUNTAINS? WE OFFER TWO FREE TRIPS: http://www.AlpsMeet.org and http://www.SeattleGlacierSchool.org , where you can meet like minded people, learn about mountains, share what you know, and have a load of fun. Welcome new and old friends, men and women of all ages, at no charge, free of cost!

OUR CLIMBS AND WALKS ARE LISTED BELOW and feature the best most experienced American, British, European, and Australian leaders who teach you everything you need to know, top notch trained and highly qualified sherpas, delicious food, excellent equipment, tents, radios, satphones, oxygen, etcetera. Our prices are for full-service, including everything imaginable from door to door, from KTM-basecamp-summit, and back. We also list prices for “basic” climbs, a stripped down version of the trip to help you save your pennies.

EVEREST TIBET SUMMIT EXPEDITION 2012: http://www.EverestClimb.com – Basic Cost: $12,750, £7,950, €9,250. Full Service Cost: $27,450, £16,850, €19,850. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE SUMMIT CLIMB AND THE WALK/DRIVE TO BASECAMP: FREE OXYGEN, FREE SHERPAS, AND FREE HOTELS. Please join me, Dan Mazur, 9 time Everest leader, for an exciting and affordable 60 day expedition in April and May. ***2011 expedition 100% summit success, 8 out of 8 on the summit. View the latest news at: http://www.EverestTibetNews.com . Exotic and less crowded Tibet, with the best views of Everest in the world. Made famous in 1928 by Mallory and Irvine. By the way, we have an office in Lhasa and ALWAYS obtain our Tibet permits.

EVEREST NEPAL SUMMIT EXPEDITION 2O12: http://www.EverestNepalClimb.com – Basic Cost: $19,850, £12,250, €14,450. Full Service Cost: $35,450, £21,950, €25,750. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE SUMMITCLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE OXYGEN, FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Friendly leader Arnold Coster has 5 Everest expeditions and is one of the best in the business. 60 days in April and May at a very low price. ***2011 expedition summit success, 5 out of 6 on the summit. View the latest news at: http://www.EverestNepalNews.com . The classic climb on Everest, following in the footsteps of Hillary and Tenzing.

EVEREST TIBET TRAINING CLIMB AND NORTH COL 2012: http://www.EverestTibetTrainingClimb.com and http://www.North-Col.com – Full Service Cost $7850, £4850, €5650. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK/DRIVE TO BASECAMP WITH FREE SHERPAS AND FREE HOTELS. Please join me, Dan Mazur, 9 time Everest leader, for an exciting and affordable 28 day expedition in April or May, and a great chance to learn all about climbing, see how you feel at altitude, visit exotic Tibet, and if you are feeling well, transition to Everest and Cho Oyu AT NO EXTRA COST. View the latest news at: http://www.NorthColNews.com . Climb very high in exotic Tibet in a short period of time at an excellent price. Exotic and less crowded Tibet, with the best views of Everest in the world. Made famous in 1928 by Mallory and Irvine. By the way, we have an office in Lhasa and ALWAYS obtain our Tibet permits. Leader Dan Mazur and our friendly expert Sherpas teach you everything you need to know. Get Qualified for Everest, and climb to the summit of Everest on the spot if you feel well.

EVEREST NEPAL CAMP 3 TRAINING CLIMB: http://www.EverestTrainingClimb.com – Full Service Cost $8650, £5350, €6250. Sixteen day option: $6350, £3850, €4350. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Friendly leader Arnold Coster, has 5 Everest expeditions and is one of the best in the business. 31 days, or 16 days school only, in April or May, and an affordable way to learn all about climbing, see how you feel at altitude, visit beautiful Nepal, and if you are feeling well, transition to Everest AT NO EXTRA COST. ***2011 expedition 100% summit success. View the latest news at: http://www.EverestTrainingClimbNews.com . The classic climb on Everest, following in the footsteps of Hillary and Tenzing. Leader Arnold and our friendly expert Sherpas teach you everything you need to know. Get Qualified for Everest, and climb to the summit on the spot if you feel well.

EVEREST GLACIER SCHOOL: http://www.EverestGlacierSchool.com – REDUCED PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150,  Seven day option: $1450, £950, €1050. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. Friendly leader Ang Sange Sherpa, has led 14 Glacier Schools, and is an excellent instructor and a very friendly person, and teaches everything you need to know. 22 days (or 7 days for the school and climb only) during April, May, or October. If you feel well enough on the April trip you can transition directly to the Everest Nepal Training Climb or Cho Oyu. ***2011 expedition 100% summit success! View the latest news at: http://www.EverestGlacierSchoolNews.com . AWARDED NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC’S “25 BEST NEW TRIPS”.

EVEREST TIBET ADVANCED BASECAMP WALK: http://www.AdvancedBasecampWalk.com – Full Service Cost: $3,850, £2,350, €2,750. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE DRIVE ACROSS TIBET AND WALK UP TO ADVANCED BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS AND FREE HOTELS. Please join me, Dan Mazur, 9 time Everest leader, for an exciting and affordable 20 day walk in April or May, and a good chance to see exotic Tibet. View the latest news at: http://www.AdvancedBaseCampNews.com . Rustic, Medieval and Less crowded Tibet, with the best views of Everest in the world, much better than in Nepal. Made famous in 1928 by Mallory and Irvine. ***Everyone reached basecamp during our recent trek. By the way, we have an office in Lhasa and ALWAYS obtain our Tibet permits.

EVEREST NEPAL BASECAMP WALK: http://www.EverestBasecampWalk.com – Full Service Cost: $1850, £1150, €1450. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE DOMESTIC FLIGHTS, AND FREE HOTELS. Friendly leader Arnold Coster, has 5 Everest expeditions and is one of the best in the business. 18 days in April, May or October. Wander gentle and wide snow-free trails through beautiful green terraced villages with amazing Himalayan views. Includes top-notch sherpas, delicious food, high-quality tents and excellent equipment. Visit our world’s most famous basecamp and hike the Everest view ridge of Kala Patar. Follow in the footsteps of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Sherpa who made the first ascent of Everest. ***Everyone reached basecamp during our recent trek. View the latest news at: http://www.BasecampNews.com .

CHO OYU CLIMB, THE WORLD’S BEST PREPARATION FOR EVEREST: http://www.ChoOyuClimb.com – Basic Climb Cost: $7,150, £4,450, €5,150. Full Service Cost: $11,850, £7,350, €8,550. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK/DRIVE TO BASECAMP WITH FREE SHERPAS AND FREE HOTELS. 38 days in April-May & Sep-Oct. ‘Easy’ snow climb of the 6th highest mountain in the world. There is probably no better preparation for climbing Everest. Most accessible of the world’s “8,000 metre”, 26,000 foot high peaks. 4-time Cho Oyu leader Max Kausch is extremely experienced, friendly, and teaches you everything you need to know. Located beside Everest on the edge of the exotic Tibetan Plateau. It is possible to ski and snowboard Cho Oyu. ***2011 expedition 7 out of 9 members reached the summit! View the latest news at: http://www.ChoOyuNews.com . By the way, we have an office in Lhasa and ALWAYS obtain our Tibet permits.

LHOTSE CLIMB, 4TH HIGHEST IN THE WORLD, CLIMBED FROM THE SAME ROUTE AS EVEREST: http://www.LhotseClimb.com Basic Climb Cost: $6,850, £4,250, €4,950. Full Service Cost: $14,850, £9,250, €10,750. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE SUMMITCLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE OXYGEN, FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. 60 days in April-May. Climb the fourth highest peak in the world from the same route as our Everest Nepal Expedition. 5 time Everest summitter and experienced Lhotse leader Arnold Coster is friendly, helpful, well organized, and teaches you everything you need to know. Branch off the Everest route just before high camp and ascend the infamous Lhotse Couloir to the summit. A brilliant way to check out Everest up close and climb a high and challenging summit for reduced cost. ***2011 expedition 100% summit success! View the latest news at: http://www.LhotseNews.com .

MUSTAGATA CLIMB, WORLD’S EASIEST 7500 METRE / 24,606 FOOT HIGH PEAK, FAMOUS FOR WALKING, CLIMBING, SNOWSHOEING, SKIING, BOARDING, AND SNOW RAQUETTING: http://www.MustagataClimb.com – Basic Climb Cost: $2750, £1650, €1950. Full Service Cost: $5450, £3350, €3750. Leader Jon Otto is friendly and experienced and speaks perfect English and Chinese. Jon will teach you everything you need to know. In just 25 days for a reasonable cost, you can climb this very high but moderate snow peak (average slope angle just 18 degrees). Climbing Mustagata could qualify you for Everest. Includes top-notch sherpas, delicious food, high-quality tents and excellent equipment. ***Our 2011 expeditions were very safe and successful! View the latest news at: http://www.MustagataNews.com . SELECTED BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC AS “BEST ADVENTURE DESTINATION 2012″.

AMA DABLAM CLIMB, ASIA’S MOST FAMOUS ROCK, SNOW, AND ICE PEAK. THE MATTERHORN OF THE HIMALAYA. TECHNICAL BUT CLIMBABLE: http://www.AmaDablamClimb.com – Basic Climb Cost: $3250, £1950, €2250. Full Service Cost: $6850, £4250, €4750. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK TO BASECAMP: FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. 29 days in October-November. Located just 15 km / 10 miles from Everest. Among the most photographed peaks in the world. Everything for the novice to the expert climber. Beautiful rock is solid granite “scrambling”. Basecamp is located in a lovely grassy meadow. The hardest pitch is 12 metres / 40 feet of French class 4, British Severe, or North American 5.7. You will be following, not leading, on secure fixed ropes. Test yourself to 7000 metres / 23,000 feet. 4 time team leader Max Kausch is very experienced and friendly. He will review all needed skills on small cliffs around the warm and sunny basecamp. Climbing Ama Dablam qualifies you for Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Shishapangma. ***2011 Summit success: 10 out of 11 members on the summit! View the latest news at: http://www.AmaDablamNews.com .

BARUNTSE CLIMB, GRAND CIRCLE CLIMBING TRIP THROUGH THE EVEREST HIMALAYA. 3 PEAKS IN ONE, MERA PEAK, BARUNTSE AND AMPHULABTSA: http://www.BaruntseClimb.com – Full Service Cost: $7,650, £4,750, €5,550. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND WALK: FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. 34 days in October-November. Just 15km / 10 miles from Everest, Baruntse is known as Nepal’s ‘easiest’ 7000 metre / 23,000 foot peak. Hiking on snow which is steep and exposed at times, but not technically difficult. Experienced friendly leader Dan Mazur teaches you everything you need to know. Make a great ‘circle-trek’ through remote valleys near Everest. “Three trips in one” includes easy Mera “trekking-peak” 6500 metres / 21,500 feet high and a crossing of the famous “Amphu-Labtsa” pass at 5800 metres / 19,000 feet. Climbing Baruntse qualifies you for Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Shishapangma. ***2011 expedition success: 7 members on the summit of Mera Peak and Baruntse. First team to reach the summit, two years in a row. View the latest news: http://www.BaruntseNews.com .

MERA PEAK TREK, REMOTE NEPAL AT ITS FINEST, A GORGEOUS TREKKING PEAK WITH THE BEST VIEWS OF EVEREST: http://www.TrekMera.com – REDUCED PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND WALK: FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE INTERNAL FLIGHTS. 22 days in October. Mera Peak has perhaps the best Everest views of any mountain, because Mera stands back at a distance from the range. It is a 6500 metre / 21,000 foot high but relatively easy ‘trekking peak’ located in a gorgeous remote area of Nepal, where uncut ancient forests and deep river gorges abound. Your leader Dan Mazur is experienced, friendly, and will teach you everything you need to know. It is also possible to ski and snowboard Mera Peak. Trekking Mera is good preparation for Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Everest Nepal Training Climb, Shishapangma, Cho Oyu, and Mustagata. ***2011 expedition success: 7 members on the summit! View the latest news: http://www.MeraPeakNews.com .

SHISHAPANGMA CLIMB, THE LOWEST OF THE WORLD’S FOURTEEN 8000 METRE PEAKS. THE BEST POSSIBLE PREPARATION FOR EVEREST: http://www.ShishapangmaClimb.com – Basic Climb Cost: $7,150, £4,450, €5150. Full Service Cost: $11,850, £7,350, €8,550. 20% discount for combining with Cho Oyu. PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING FOR THE CLIMB AND THE WALK/DRIVE TO BASECAMP WITH FREE SHERPAS AND FREE HOTELS. 38 days September-October or 15 days in October (Cho Oyu combination). ‘Easy’ snow climb of the less crowded & lowest of the world’s 14 eight thousand metre, 26,000 foot high mountains, located in exotic Tibet near Everest. Led by Dan Mazur who teaches you everything you need to know. Dan is a 9 time Everest Leader, and this is his third Shishapangma expedition. Our sherpas are extremely experienced, our food is delicious and our tents and equipment are among the best. Climbing Shishapangma qualifies you for Everest from Tibet, Everest from Nepal, and Lhotse. You may wish to combine with Cho Oyu to climb Shisha in just 15 days and save 20%. Also, it is possible to ski and snowboard Shisha. ***2011 expedition: 4 out of 5 members reached the summit, and the Cho-Shish “double header” was 100% successful. View the latest news at: http://www.ShishaPangmaNews.com . By the way, we have an office in Lhasa and ALWAYS obtain our Tibet permits.

http://www.SeattleGlacierSchool.org – 7 days in July. Free of cost. No charge. Leader: Dan Mazur is a friendly and accomplished leader who teaches you everything you need to know. Learn glacier climbing and snow camping. Purchase or hire – rent mountaineering equipment at one of the many inexpensive mountain climbing shops in Seattle. After several days of instruction and practice, attempt one of the most glaciated 4000 metre / 14,000 foot high peaks in lower North America. ***Our 2011 glacier school was very safe and successful! View the latest news at: http://www.SeattleGlacierSchoolNews.com .

http://www.AlpsMountainMeet.com – Free of cost, no charge. 1 or 2 weeks in France during late February and early March, led by Dan Mazur who teaches you everything you need to know. It’s not as expensive as you think, around £48 per day includes accommodation and 2 meals a day. Week 1: skiing/boarding on/backcountry in Tignes, with a chance to climb 3,800 metre / 12,500 foot high peaks. Week 2: climbing around Chamonix including glaciers, ice and mixed couloirs. It is not necessary to know how to ski. View the latest news at: http://www.AlpsMeetNews.com .

http://www.EverestBasecampServiceTrek.org – Donation: $3450, £2150, €2450 (your contribution for the trek and your international flight are gift aid tax eligible). PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR YOUR TREK, INCLUDING FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE DOMESTIC FLIGHTS. 22 days in April and October. Support trek with the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development (MEFSD) to the Pema Choling Buddhist women’s convent, also known as the Deboche Nunnery, where 12 impoverished nuns live in an ancient convent. After visiting and helping, walk to Everest Base Camp and the famous Everest viewing ridge of Kala Pattar. Leader Ang Sange Sherpa, 15 Everest Basecamp Treks. ***During our recent trek, members helped to install a greenhouse and water line.

http://www.RemoteNepalServiceWalk.org – Donation: $1850, £1150, €1250 (100% of your contribution for the trek and your international flight are gift aid eligible). PRICE INCLUDES EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR YOUR TREK, INCLUDING FREE SHERPAS, FREE HOTELS, AND FREE DOMESTIC FLIGHTS. 15 days June or November – December. Join experienced friendly leader Dan Mazur and staff of the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development (MEFSD) to walk the beautiful green foothills beneath Mount Everest and explore ancient uncut forests and terraced farmlands. Visit friendly farm families living a traditional life, and deliver needed medical and educational supplies to remote schools and hospitals. Try your hand at school teaching, building construction, and seeing patients. THIS IS A LOW ALTITUDE TREK, you will never step on snow nor walk higher than 2700 metres / 8850 feet. Discounts for medical professionals and teachers. ***During our recent trek, members delivered needed medical and school supplies and clothing, also tried their hand at teaching and seeing patients. View the latest news at: http://www.ServiceTrekNews.org .

http://www.KiliTrek.com – Kilimanjaro, 14-22 February or August (9 days). One of the famous “7-summits”. A brilliant introduction to high altitude mountaineering on the highest mountain in all of Africa. Kili is only easy walking to the top on solid trails, there is no climbing. A fast way to see how you feel at altitude in exotic Africa. Leader Dan Mazur teaches you everything you need to know and has climbed Kili 5 times. Cost $2950, £1850, €2150. View the latest news at: http://www.KiliTrekNews.com .

http://www.KenyaClimb.com – Mt. Kenya trek or optional rock climb, 21-28 February or August (8 days). This is the 2nd highest peak in Africa. Stunning forests with lots of wildlife, high altitude cloud forest and above treeline terrain. Much less crowded than Kilimanjaro with a gorgeous summit circuit walk, the highlight of which is the stunning sunrise from famous Point Lenana. Optional exciting 16 pitch rock climb on good granite. Hardest pitch North American 5.7, French 4, British Severe. Should you choose the optional rock climb, you will be following, not leading, on secure fixed ropes. Leader Dan Mazur has climbed Mt. Kenya three times. Cost $1850, £1150, €1350. View the latest news at: http://www.MtKenyaNews.com .

Wildlife Game viewing Safari in East Africa’s best parks (2-4 days): Amboseli (2 days): $650 USD, Serengeti (4 days): $1200. See Lions, Giraffes, Elephants, Rhino, Hippos, Zebras, Wildebeest, and thousands of Birds.

COMBINE ALL 3 AFRICAN ADVENTURES AND SAVE: 14 February – 2 March or August: a) $4950, £3050, €3550 (with Amboseli safari), b) $5550, £3450, €4050 (with Serengeti safari). ONLY A FEW PLACES LEFT, SO PLEASE BOOK NOW.

http://www.AconcaguaSummitClimb.com – 20 days in January / February. SPECIAL LOW PRICE. One of the famous “7-summits”. A brilliant introduction to high altitude mountaineering on the highest mountain in all of the Americas. 7,000 metres / 23,000 feet. Leader Max Kausch: experienced, friendly, speaks perfect English + Spanish. Max has climbed Aconcagua five times and teaches everything you need to know. There is no “climbing” on Aconcagua’s easy terrain, its just a walk on rocky (and occasionally snowy) trails. However, it’s still challenging, as with occasional snow and wind on summit day, crampons, ice axe, mountaineering boots and winter clothing are required. High altitude for a low price and a short duration of time. Aconcagua can help qualify you for Everest. REDUCED PRICE: $2950 £1850 €2150. ***Our last Aconcagua expedition was very safe and successful! View the latest news at: http://www.AconcaguaSummitClimbNews.com . ONLY A FEW PLACES LEFT, SO PLEASE BOOK NOW.

This brings us to the close of our first newsletter for 2012, our 21st Anniversary, and I look forward to climbing, walking, and doing service work with you in 2012.

Thanks for reading, and I would like to speak to you further about our favorite topic: MOUNTAINS. Please email, facebook, skype, or telephone me at your earliest opportunity. In case I am out walking and climbing when you ring, do leave a clear message with your name, email address, and phone number, best time to ring back, etcetera.

THANKS FOR TELLING YOUR FRIENDS, PLEASE KEEP THE QUESTIONS COMING, AND LETS CARRY ON THE DISCUSSION.

Welcome to Our Team and Best Mountain Regards.

Thank you very much. Yours Sincerely,

-Dan Mazur

dan@SummitClimb.com & dan@SummitTrek.com

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http://www.SummitClimb.com & http://www.SummitTrek.com

Latest news: http://www.SummitClimbNews.com & http://www.SummitTrekNews.com

Latest charity non-profit news: http://www.MEFnews.org

Featured climb: http://www.EverestTibetClimb.com & http://www.EverestNepalTrainingClimb.com

Featured walk: http://www.AdvancedBasecampWalk.com & http://www.EverestNepalWalk.com

Skype: Dan.Mazur8848

Phone UK: +44 (0)7810375400

Phone USA: 1-360-570-0715

In case I am not in, please leave me a clear phone message with name, message, number, and best day and time to return your call.

Address UK: 184 Bishop Road, Bristol, BS7 8NB, England

Address USA: POB 123, Lakebay, WA, 98349, USA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dan_Mazur

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Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012, part2. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12.

Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012, part2.

Winter expedition starts! The expedition is going to operate from December 2011 to March 2012 and climb via classic route leads from the west side and in the upper parts goes through the so-called “Japanese Couloir”, situated in the highest part of the north-west face. This route is the aim of the expedition, whose main task is to ascend in winter for the first time in history the eleventh highest mountain in the world.


Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011_2012 – route

Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 8,068 m led by Artur Hajzer ,

Artur Hajzer

the team : Adam Bielecki, Agnieszka Bielecka, Janusz Gołąb.

A report from Jola, January 16, 2012.

A report received via a satellite telephone from a bivouac in Jola on January 16, 2012: Yesterday, i.e. on January 15, we reached Askole in jeeps. As usually, we rode with our hearts in our mouth due to abysses and other obstacles. It seemed that we did not have any chances to pass a damaged suspension bridge, but fortunately Janusz Gołąb showed his carpentry skills and repaired the bridge. We all felt a surge of pure adrenaline for the first time during this expedition!

On January 16 in the morning we continued our journey and thanks to the frozen rivers we could take a short cut. We bivouac in Jola. Our kitchen and accommodation are in mesa tents.

The temperature in Jola is -5°C, overcast sky, no rain or wind. Minimal snow cover – 3 cm!

We are doing fine. Tomorrow we plan to reach Payu.

A report received from the Gore II bivouac on January 19, 2012.

We are bivouacking in Gore II at 4,300 m above sea level. There is no snowfall; a 15 cm snow cover; cloud top height – 6,000 m; weak wind – 15 km/h; 80% cloudiness; the temperature in tents is -10°C. We have reached this place after three nights in Jola, Payu and Urdukas. We will reach the base camp in two or three days, depending on porters’ decision. The weather conditions are favourable for marching, though our porters would like it to be sunnier… On the other hand, it is warmer thanks to the clouds, i.e. -10°C at this time of the year is a rather high temperature. Military posts that we pass inspire our respect. In small huts without heating, in the middle of the glacier soldiers guard vast boarders of their country. Their situation is unenviable. From Payu we follow the Baltoro Glacier. The path is rather distinct: mounds and tracers show us the route; military telephone cables are sometime visible.

A report January 21, 2012 from the base camp at the foot of Gasherbrum.

A report dictated over a satellite telephone on January 21, 2012 from the base camp at the foot of Gasherbrum:

Today in the afternoon we have reached Gasherbrum BC at 5,030 m above sea level. The temperature is -20°C, the wind blows with 0-10 km/h, there is approximately half a meter of snow cover on Concordia and on the moraine – up to 30 cm. During the entire day, the sky was overcast and it cleared up in the evening.
During the last two days we had a lot of luck – weather conditions were favourable for marching and our porters decided that we were going to reach Sharinj. Therefore, today there have been only four hours of marching left to get to the base camp. Unfortunately, due to the overcast sky we could see neither K2 nor the “Shiny Face” of Gasherbrum IV.
Today, having reached the base camp, we put up our tents and get access to our warm clothes that we on the bottom of our bags carried by the porters. We plan to spend the next two days on establishing the base camp – our home for the next two months. We have to put up a mess tent, a storehouse, a toilet, etc.
In the evening out efforts were rewarded – at sunset we could see our mountain in all its magnificence!

Greetings from Gasherbrum BC!
Agna, Artur, Adam and Janusz

* Source : – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

* Previous story :

- Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012, part1. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12.

- Polish winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011/2012. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12.

** see :

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Gasherbrum I 2011/12 – cz.2.

Relacja 16.01.2012 z Jola

Relacja podyktowana przez telefon satelitarny z biwaku Jola, 16.01.2012:
Wczoraj, 15 stycznia dojechaliśmy jeepami do Askole. Jak zwykle była to jazda z duszą na ramieniu, z powodu mijanych przepaści i innych przeszkód. Wydawało się, że uszkodzony most wiszący nie da nam szans na przejazd, ale na szczęście Janusz Gołąb wykazał się talentem ciesielskim i naprawił most. Zaliczyliśmy wszyscy pierwszy na wyprawie zastrzyk adrenaliny!

16 stycznia rano wyruszyliśmy w dalszą drogę, na szczęście dzięki zamarzniętym rzekom mogliśmy pomaszerować na skróty. Na biwak dotarliśmy do Jola. Kuchnię i nocleg mamy urządzone w namiotach typu mesa.

W Jola panuje temperatura -5 stopni, zachmurzenie całkowite, zero opadów i zero wiatru. Skąpa pokrywa śnieżna – 3 cm!

U nas wszystko w porządku. Jutro zamierzamy dojść do Payu.

Relacja 19.01.2012

Relacja podyktowana z biwaku Gore II 19.01.2012:

Jesteśmy na biwaku w Gore II na wysokości 4.300 m n.p.m. Opadów brak, sniegu leży 15 cm, pułap chmur 6.000 m, wiatr słaby 15 km/h, zachmurzenie 80%. temperatura w namiocie -10 stopni C.
Dotarliśmy tu po trzech noclegach w Jola, Payu i Urdukas. W zależności od decyzji tragarzy w bazie będziemy za dwa do trzech dni. Warunki są sprzyjające do marszu, choc nasi tragarze życzyliby sobie więcej słońca… Z drugiej strony dzięki chmurom jest cieplej – minus 10 stopni C o tej porze roku to wysoka temperatura.

Nasz szacunek budzą mijane po drodze posterunki wojska. W małych lepiankach na środku lodowca, bez ogrzewania, żołnierze strzegą spornej granicy swego kraju. Nie zazdrościmy im tej sytuacji.
Od Payu idziemy lodowcem Baltoro. Scieżka jest dość wyraźna , drogę wskazują nam kopczyki i trasery, czasem widoczny jest wojskowy kabel telefoniczny.

Relacja z 21.01.2012 z bazy pod Gasherbrumem

Relacja podyktowana przez telefon satelitarny 21.01.2012 z bazy pod Gasherbrumem:

Dzisiaj po południu dotarliśmy do Gasherbrum BC na wysokości 5030 m n.p.m. Temperatura powietrza to minus 20 stopni C, wiatr 0-10 km/h, na lodowcu Concordia jest około pół metra śniegu, a na morenie od 0 do 30 cm. Cały dzień niebo było całkowicie zachmurzone, dopiero wieczorem się przejaśniło.
W ciągu poprzednich dwu dni mieliśmy dużo szczęścia – panowały warunki sprzyjające do marszu i wczoraj nasi tragarze zadecydowali, że dojdziemy aż do Sharinj. Dlatego dzisiaj zostało nam tylko cztery godziny marszu do bazy. Niestety, ze względu na całkowite zachmurzenie nie zobaczyliśmy ani K2, ani Świetlistej Ściany Gasherbruma IV.
Dzisiaj, po dotarciu do bazy rozbiliśmy nasze osobiste namioty i dostaliśmy się do ciepłych ubrań, które były na dnie worków niesionych przez tragarzy. Przez następne dwa dni zamierzamy urządzać bazę – nasz dom na najbliższe dwa miesiące. Czeka nas przygotowanie mesy, magazynu, toalety, itp. Wieczorem spotkała nas nagroda za trudy ostatnich dni – o zachodzie wyjrzało słońce i nasza góra odsłoniła się w całej swej okazałości!

Pozdrawiamy z Gasherbrum BC!
Agna, Artur, Adam i Janusz

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Winter Pakistan: Evacuation On K2, C2 On Nanga Parbat.

Author : Kraig Becker.

It has been a busy couple of days in Pakistan for the teams making winter ascents on the big peaks there. As is always the case, it is the weather that decides how much progress they can make and how much they’ll suffer while doing it. For the teams on K2 and Nanga Parbat, it has now been a month since they arrived on the mountain, while over on Gasherbrum I, the teams are just starting to settle in.

The Russians on K2 were forced to evacuate a teammate yesterday when a helicopter dropped by BC to pick up Vladimir Belous, who was suffering from frostbite on several fingers. The team had hoped to send Belous out sooner, but bad weather prevented the helicopter from landing for a number of days, and as a result, Vladimir’s fingers had to be treated on site. He has now been flown back to Skardu and will make his way to Islamabad, and then home to Moscow.

Meanwhile, the rest of his teammates have continued to work the route. Several climbers were above Camp 2 yesterday fixing ropes, but high winds forced them to retreat all the way back down to Base Camp. The skies have cleared there however, which brought some sun at last, but the high winds and cold temperatures are expected to continue. The mercury has been hovering around -37ºC/-34ºF for the past few days.

    Nanga Parbat Photo Matteo Zanga

On Nanga Parbat, Denis Urubko and Simone Moro have resumed climbing and went up to Camp 2, located at 5000 meters (16,404 ft) yesterday. After taking three days of rest, the two men are feeling re-engergized and ready to climb, and while they were accompanied by three others on their way up to C1, they are now in Camp 2 all by themselves. No word yet if they’ll go any higher or if this is just the next round of their acclimatization process.

The Polish Team on Gasherbrum I is getting settled in and preparing to move up the mountain. They arrived in BC over the weekend, and have been busy getting their camp established ever since.  They did find time to post an excellent image gallery online, which you can check out here. The photos give you a good sense of what life is like in Base Camp on one of these big mountains. Look for the team to start working their way up to Camp 1 in the next day or two.

Finally, Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez are also in BC on GI and have reportedly started working the route themselves. The two men took their turn fixing the lines yesterday, so progress has started towards C1, and it appears that there is a good sense of cooperation between them and the Poles. Alex and Carlos are also working hard to establish their Internet connection from the mountain as well, as they have plenty of photos, and hopefully video, to share with the rest of us following along back home.

Good luck to all of the climbers as they continue to challenge these monsters of the Karakoram in the days and weeks ahead.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Related Links : – winter-expedition

** Previous story :

- Winter Climb Update: Teams Reach Gasherbrum BC.

- Winter Pakistan: K2 hurricane story in pictures.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog

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e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Winter Climb Update: Teams Reach Gasherbrum BC.

Author : Kraig Becker.

The weekend was a busy one for the major winter climbs in the Karakoram, with two teams reaching Base Camp on their mountain, while two others continued to work the routes on their peaks.

winter expedition to Gasherbrum I 2011_2012

We’ll start on K2, where the Russians now say that they have completely repaired the damage to their Camps 1 and 2. You may recall that last week the mountain was hit with hurricane force winds, which tore up BC and the higher camps. C1 was hit the worst, but the entire mountain felt the wrath of that storm. As a result, it took a few days to get everything back to they way that they wanted it, but now they seem to be back on track and returning to fixing the ropes up to Camp 3.

The weather hasn’t been great since their arrival, and yesterday the team saw the sun for the first time in ten days. It didn’t last however, and after just 30 minutes, the clouds returned and conditions took a turn for the worse. Despite the cold, high winds, and snow, the team diligently goes about its work however, knowing they have no chance of success unless they simply get on with it.

Over on Nanga Parbat, Denis Urubko and Simone Moro elected to take a few days of rest after learning about the death of their friend Mario Merelli, who perished while climbing in the Dolomites last week. They haven’t posted any updates to their status since last week, which should lead us to believe that they are still in BC and planning their next move. They are joined on that mountain by a Polish squad, who had also been working the route and had completed their first round of acclimatization by building Camp 1 as well.

The other mountain receiving plenty of attention is Gasherbrum I, where two teams arrived in Base Camp over the weekend. The first was a Polish Team who reported that there is about a half-meter of snow in BC when they arrived on Saturday. They noted that they would spend the first few days establishing their camp, which is located at 5030 meters (16,502 ft), before they start heading up the mountain, and they reiterated that they will be on GI for the next two months.

Also reaching Base Camp on Gasherbrum I was Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez. Reportedly conditions on the final trek to BC were good, and the weather was actually cooperative, but temperatures are extremely cold and there is plenty of snow higher up the mountain. Much like their Polish counterparts, Alex and Carlos will spend a few days getting organized and making their camp comfortable before they being their ascent.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Related Links :  – winter-expedition

** Previous story :

- Winter Pakistan: K2 hurricane story in pictures.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

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Winter Pakistan: K2 hurricane story in pictures.

Even for Russians, they were in a bad spot at the wrong time and they knew it. “I think we should get dressed,” said Vinogradsky. What is it like on K2 in a winter hurricane, descending without crampons through the night? C1 survivor Eugeny Vinogradsky knows and today he shares his story. 

K2 hurricane debrief

Scrambling to reassemble their wrecked base camp, Russian expedition member Eugeny reported the details yesterday in a phone call home to Yekaterinburg.

Saturday, on January 14, the mountaineers ascended to camp 1. “Except for a strong wind that first night was OK,” Vinogradsky said.

The men expected to work the route for the following three days when on Sunday night the wind suddenly grew into hurricane force. At a forceful blow to the tent 1:30 am, “I told my mates to put on our clothes, boots and harnesses,” the Russian said. It was not a moment too soon. “The next gust ripped our tent,” Vinogradsky said, “and the gear inside flew out.”

The fragile canvas shelter balancing on the edge of a cliff, “we risked to be swept away along with the tent,” Eugeny said.

“Vladimir Belous and I had time enough to put on our crampons, but Alexey Bolotov’s blew out with the wind… luckily we still managed to descend back to BC.”

“Problems were not over though,” Eugeny Vinogradsky reported about their return to safety. “Upon arrival, we saw the gale had flattened 6 tents and blown away a lot of gear.”

The wind dropping at last the expedition is repairing the damaged tents. The difficult descent caused frostbite to Vladimir Belous toes and he will return home. The team has thus been reduced to eight climbers.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

AddThis Feed Button


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