Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012: Pakistan wrap-up – details on Nanga Parbat new route attempt.

Simone Moro takes us into the world of winter mountaneering. After his first winter ascents of Gasherbrum II he introduces us to his next project: to climb Nanga Parbat with Denis Urubko.

Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012

Pakistan wrap-up: details on Nanga Parbat new route attempt. (Posted: Feb 02, 2012 02:46 pm EST)

(Angela Benavides) Brilliant sunshine is treating all climbers to a nice winter break, unfortunately the current window came a bit early for summit pushes. Yesterday Denis spoke of the new route he and Simone hope to do on Nanga Parbat. Messner, who once commenced it, hopes the two will finish it. Nanga Parbat: Denis and Simone for a double-firstAlthough known as the Messner route, the South Tyrolean actually never completed the line that Simone and Denis have deviated to. Should they succeed, they would thus bag a double…

* CLICK HERE TO CONTINUE READING

Unfavourable Conditions Stalls Summit Attempt for Moro and Urubko. (Posted: January 31, 2012)

Nanga Parbat base camp 4230m -16 C°

Today was supposed to be the last day of rest and tomorrow the planned departure for Denis and Simone to begin the planned one week stretch of climb to attempt the summit. But as it is ultimately important to have the right weather conditions, the team must now wait a few more days as the forecast for the next days is not favourable.

In a message from base camp, the team said;

“Karl Gabl, our weather guru in Innsbruck, should have authorized us to go. Unfortunately the forecast is not good and only two days of good weather is expected, following with snow and wind up to 140km/h at 8000mt altitude. So we will have to wait and it looks like we have to wait for a while.”

   Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012

Weather Conditions Confirm Forecast; Moro and Urubko Train Instead. (Posted: February 1, 2012)

Nanga Parbat Base Camp 4230m – -12° C

   Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012

Karl Gabl is always right! The weather today began with sun so we started to train a bit. A 4 hours walk down to Kutgully using snow shoes and setting up a route for the shepas who will come tomorrow bringing food and fuel to sustain us for the next month.

We walked pretty well and set a really good path through the valley. On the way back from Kutgully the sky became cloudy but we expect some light snow fall tomorrow as forecasted by our weather guru in Innsbuck.

Story: Simone Moro/ Denis Urubko
Photo: Matteo Zanga

* Source : – http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/category/nanga-parbat/

* Related Links : – winter-expedition

** Previous story :

- Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012: Moro and Urubko expedition Video Dispatch.

- Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012: Simone and Urubko Acclimatize at Camp 3 – 6600m.

- Winter expedition to Nanga Parbat 2011/2012: Moro and Urubko Reach Basecamp 4230mt.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15.

Winter expedition starts! The aim of the expedition is the first winter ascent of an eight-thousander in Karakorum – the 12th peak of the world – Broak Peak 8,047 m. The expedition is going to operate from December 2010 to March 2011 and climb via a route of the first conquerors, from the West, from Goldwin-Austen Glacier in the Baltoro region.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak – route.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team : Robert Szymczak, Rafał . Artur HajzerFronia, Jarosław Gawrysiak, Arkadiusz Grządziel, Marcin Kaczkan, Robert Kaźmierski, Jerzy Natkański and Krzysztof Starek.

News from Friday – January 28, 2011.

Our plan is working – Kaziu Kaźmierski, Jarek Gawrysiak and Rafał Fronia are already in camp 2, while Artur Hajzer, Piotr Snopczyński and Marcin Kaczkan are in camp 1. The rest is in the base camp.

News from winter expedition to Broad Peak – Thursday, January 27.

Today Szymczak, Starek and Grządziel have gone from camp 1 /c1/ to camp 2 /c2/. They have made a platform and put up tents. Tomorrow they are going to do some rigging and go back to the base camp /bc/.
Kaźmierski went from bc to camp 1 – he sleeps there. Tomorrow morning, i.e. on January 28, he sets off to camp 2.
Also tomorrow, Fronia and Gawrysiak are setting off from the base camp to c2, while Hajzer, Snopczyński and Kaczkan are going to c1.

Plans for the next days:
January 29, Fronia, Gawrysiak and Kaźmierski are going to rig the route above camp 2 and go back to the base camp. Simultaneously, Hajzer, Snopczyński and Kaczkan are going to c2.
January 30, Hajzer, Snopczyki and Kaczkan are going to rig above c2 and go down to the base camp.
January 31 – Ali and Raza rig to camp 2, dig and prepare a platform for c3.

The weather is good. There is no Jetstream! Wind is blowing at 20 to 30 km/h. Great conditions for a summit attempt. Unusual winter. Karl Gabl hasn’t observed similar conditions for 6 years. Unfortunately, there is one BUT. It’s extremely cold. Gabl hasn’t observed here, at 8,000 m, temperature falling to -50 degrees Celsius. Up to now, -30 degrees Celsius at night in the base camp is a norm. All heating systems are working well: gas heaters and kerosene heater. Additionally, double mess tent is working out – it doesn’t let through exhaust fumes – so, we heat the threshold only with one burner.
Jarek got through with electronics – but there is no coverage. Twice a day a transmission group goes down to 400 m outside the base camp for transmission to a special satellite tent put up there permanently.

Artur Hajzer - expedition leader

* Source : – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

* Previous story :

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 14. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 13. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 12. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 10. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 9. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 8. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 7. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 6. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11 – Sponsorship offer.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 5. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 4. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 3. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 2. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 1. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

** see :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11 – cz.15.

Wieści z piątku 28.01.2011.

Gąsienica w działaniu – Kaziu Kaźmierski, Jarek Gawrysiak i Rafał Fronia są już w obozie 2 a Artur Hajzer, Piotr Snopczyński i Marcin Kaczkan w obozie 1. reszta w bazie.

Wieści z wyprawy Winter Broad Peak – czwartek 27 stycznia

Dziś z obozu 1 /c1 do obozu 2/c2 doszli: Szymczak, Starek, Grządziel. Zrobili platformę, postawili namiot. Jutro rano mają trochę zaporęczować i zjechać do bazy /bc/..
Z bc do c1 doszedł Kaźmierski – tam śpi. Jutro rano jutro tj. 28 stycznia rusza do c2. Jutro też z bazy do c2 rusza Fronia i Gawrysiak a Hajzer, Snopczynski, Kaczkan do c1.

Później zaplanowaliśmy tak:
29.01 Fronia, Gawrysiak, Kaźmierski poreczują powyżej obozu 2 i zjeżdżają do bazy .
W tym czasie Hajzer, Snopczyński, Kaczkan idą do c2
30.01 Hajzer, Snopczyński, Kaczkan poręczują powyżej c2 i zjeżdżają do bazy.
31.01 – Ali i Raza poręczują do c3 i kopią platformę pod c3.

Pogoda jest dobra….  Nie ma Jetstreamu ! Wiatry to 20/30 km na godzinę. Jest super na atak szczytowy. Nietypowa zima. Karl Gabl nie pamięta takiej od 6 lat odkąd obserwuje tu warunki. Jest jedno ALE. Jest rekordowo zimno. Gabl nie widział tu wcześniej na 8000 minus 50. Do tej pory minus 30 w bazie nocą to standard. Dobrze nam działają wszystkie systemy grzewcze: hitery gazowe i grzejnik kerosinowy. Poza tym podwójny namiot mesowy dobrze się sprawdza, nie puszcza spalin, więc w przedsionku dogrzewamy jednym palnikiem kuchennym. Jarek uporał się z elektroniką, ale zasięgu nie ma. Dwa razy dziennie grupa transmisyjna chodzi 400 m poza bazę na transmisje do specjalnie stojącego już tam na stałe namiotu satelitarnego.

Artur Hajzer – kierownik wyprawy
(Info dodał Marek Karnecki dnia 28.01.2011)

* Źródło: – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

** Zobacz też:

- Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

- Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

Nieruchomości on line

drytooling.com.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 14. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 14.

Winter expedition starts! The aim of the expedition is the first winter ascent of an eight-thousander in Karakorum – the 12th peak of the world – Broak Peak 8,047 m. The expedition is going to operate from December 2010 to March 2011 and climb via a route of the first conquerors, from the West, from Goldwin-Austen Glacier in the Baltoro region.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak – route.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team : Robert Artur HajzerSzymczak, Rafał . Fronia, Jarosław Gawrysiak, Arkadiusz Grządziel, Marcin Kaczkan, Robert Kaźmierski, Jerzy Natkański and Krzysztof Starek.

Winter expedition to Broad Peak – account from Wednesday, January 26.

According to the plan, today Robert Szymczak, Arek Grządziel and Krzysiek Starek have reached camp 1 and they are going to stay there overnight.

The rest is in the base camp.

* See some new photos:

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11

Broad Peak – account dated on Tuesday, January 25, 2011 – short films.

Today Artur has reported:

“Jan 24 me and Kaczkan were in c1. Jan 26 a team incl. Szymczak, Starek and Grządziel sets off. Then, other teams in single file are going to follow – 4 in total; their task is to rig the route to c3. The last team is supposed to reach c3 at 7,150 m with ropes. That’s the plan. Every team goes more or less with heavy loads and plans a night’s rest in c1 and maybe in c2 (optionally). Apart from that, everything is fine. What hasn’t been working, now works.”

Artur Hajzer - expedition leader

* Source : – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

* Previous story :

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 13. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 12. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 10. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 9. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 8. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 7. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 6. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11 – Sponsorship offer.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 5. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 4. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 3. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 2. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 1. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

** see :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11 – cz.14.

Zimowa wyprawa na Broad Peak – relacja ze środy 26 stycznia.

Zgodnie z planem dziś Robert Szymczak, Arek Grządziel i Krzysiek Starek doszli do obozu 1 i tam nocują, reszta w bazie.

* powyżej są pokazane zdjęcia z C1 i C2.

Broad Peak – relacja z wtorku 25.01.2011.

Dziś Artur Hajzer przekazał:

“24.01 Ja i Kaczkan byliśmy w c1. 26.01 wychodzi zespół Szymczak, Starek, Grządziel. I potem ruchem gąsienicy kolejne zespoły – w sumie 4 – z zadaniem poręczowanie do c3. Ostatni zespół ma dojść z linami w miejsce c3 na 7150m. Taki plan. Każdy zespół idzie w miarę na ciężko z noclegiem w c1 i chyba też w c2 (opcjonalnie). Poza tym tu u nas wszystko gra. Co nie działało to działa.”

* zobacz też filmiki z pierwszej części posta

Artur Hajzer – kierownik wyprawy
(Info dodał Marek Karnecki dnia 26.01.2011)

* Źródło: – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

** Zobacz też:

- Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

- Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

Nieruchomości on line

drytooling.com.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button


Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 13. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 13.

Winter expedition starts! The aim of the expedition is the first winter ascent of an eight-thousander in Karakorum – the 12th peak of the world – Broak Peak 8,047 m. The expedition is going to operate from December 2010 to March 2011 and climb via a route of the first conquerors, from the West, from Goldwin-Austen Glacier in the Baltoro region.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak – route.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team : Robert Szymczak, Rafał . Artur HajzerFronia, Jarosław Gawrysiak, Arkadiusz Grządziel, Marcin Kaczkan, Robert Kaźmierski, Jerzy Natkański and Krzysztof Starek.

News from the winter expedition to Broak Peak – including the menu.

On January 23 after leaving the deposit in the place of camp 2, everyone, very exhausted and chilled to the marrow, came back to the base camp after dark. Low temperature – perceived temperature was -50 to -60 degrees Celsius – gave everyone a hard time.

Today, i.e. on January 24, Rafał Fronia reported that Artur Hajzer and Marcin Kaczkan went to camp 1 for a night and a part of the team when to heliport, where there is coverage of Inmarsat satellite network working with Isatphon expedition phone and modem transferring data within this network, so-called BEGAN. In the place where the base camp is situated both the telephone and the modem do not detect satellites.
Fortunately, in the base camp there is another satellite network, Thyraya, and telephone contact as well as digital transmission of data is possible, but considering the costs it is possible only for small files. Jarek Gawrysiak, an IT engineer, will be trying to send a film recorded during the route to camp 2 thanks to the HD camera, among other things, installed on Jarek’s helmet.

Because some of the Internet users ask about expedition’s menu, below you may find a description prepared by Jarek.

“Broad Peak Winter Expedition 2010 – 2011 is a culinary orgy.
After the expedition to Nanga Parbat 2010 when we had to suffer agony because of our cook, this time we were extra cautious.
In Skardu, while forming the caravan, we met out cook Mosen who was informed that if he failed to cook properly, he would be eaten by us.
Apparently, he took his new role and possible fate to his heart as food even during the caravan was OK – Pakistani standards of course.

So, in the base camp we get three meals a day, quite good but monotonous.

Breakfast: porridge, egg, chapati (whole wheat flat breads) – basically, it’s always the same.
Lunch: pasta or rice, yak or goat meat (animals came to the base camp three month ago, then they were killed here, put into barrels and deposited in a crack).
Dinner: yummy, pasta or rice, meat (yak – like a rock, goat – stinky), vegetables (sauerkraut or beetroot – which came in a barrel from Poland), dessert.
Actually, it is almost always the same with slight variations.
In the camps above the base camp situation looks completely differently.
There we eat only delicacies:
packet soups, kisel (fruit soup), tinned pâté if it is possible to de-freeze it, kabanos (dry sausage made of pork), candy bar, a lot of tea, tinned fish, a lot of tea and that’s it.”

Base camp of the winter expedition of Polish Mountaineering Association to Broad Peak – January 23, 2011.

Since the day when the second group landed in the base camp, i.e. January 19, the weather conditions – considering that it’s winter – are passable. If the temperatures were not so low – in the base camp it’s -32 degrees Celsius and at 8,000 m it’s -50 degrees Celsius – the weather conditions could be even described as perfect. The wind is rather weak this winter. There is hardly any wind in the base camp and above it reaches ca. 40 km/h – Simone and Denis may conquer GII at any second now.

All teams went down to the base camp to welcome the second group that arrived. The second group spent January 20 and January 21 on acclimatizing to altitude – after all, they landed in the base camp 4 days after they left Poland. Unfortunately, they suffered from some health problems. However, the works on enlargement of the base camp and its operation were continued.

Clash with winter reality of Karakorum was painful for the second group. Sudden change to temperature as low as -32 degrees Celsius was a shock. Going from heated mess to a tent and into a frozen sleeping bag was quite a challenge. During all activities hands grew numb with cold on the verge of frostbite.

On January 22, activities in the mountains started. Only Hajzer, Kaczkan and Snopczyński remained in the base camp. The rest went upwards in order to finish rigging to camp II, transport some of the things and acclimatize. In the second camp a deposit (emergency oxygen and a tent) was made. In the evening all teams came back to the base camp.

To be continued after the rest.

Artur Hajzer - expedition leader

* Source : – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

* Previous story :

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 12. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 10. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 9. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 8. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 7. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 6. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11 – Sponsorship offer.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 5. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 4. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 3. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 2. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 1. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

- Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

** see :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11 – cz.13.

Wieści z zimowej wyprawy na Broad Peak-m.in. – co jadają na wyprawie.

W dniu 23 stycznia po założeniu depozytu w miejscu obozu 2 wszyscy mocno wyczerpani i przemarznięci po zmroku wrócili do bazy. Niska temperatura – odczuwalne minus 50 -60 stopni dała wszystkim w kość.

Dziś tj. 24 stycznia Rafał Fronia przekazał, że Artur Hajzer i Marcin Kaczkan poszli do obozu 1 na noc . Część ekipy udała się na lądowisko helikopterowe, gdzie jest zasięg sieci satelitarnej Inmarsat obsługującej wyprawowy telefon Isatphon oraz modem do przesyłania danych w tej sieci, tzw. BEGAN.W miejscu, gdzie jest baza wyprawy telefon i modem “nie widzą” satelitów. Na szczęście w bazie widoczna jest inna sieć satelitarna -Thyraya i- możliwy jest kontakt telefoniczny i cyfrowy przesył danych, ale ze względu na koszty tylko lekkich materiałów. Inżynier informatyk Jarek Gawrysiak będzie próbował przesłać film nagrany podczas wyjścia do obozu 2, nagrany m.in. dzięki kamerze HD zamontowanej na kasku Jarka.

Ponieważ część internautów pytała, co jada się na wyprawie, poniżej opis przygotowany przez Jarka.

“Broad Peak Winter Expedition 2010 – 2011 to orgia kulinarna. Po wyprawie Nanga Parbat 2010, gdzie znosiliśmy katusze które zafundował nam kucharz, zachowaliśmy szczególną ostrożność. W Skardu w czasie formowania karawany poznaliśmy kucharza Mosen’a któremu zapowiedzieliśmy, że jeśli będzie źle gotował to zjemy jego. Widać przejął się swoją rolą i ewentualnym losem, gdyż nawet w czasie karawany jedzenie było ok – jak na warunki pakistańskie oczywiście.

Tak więc w warunkach bazy mamy 3 posiłki, niezłe choć monotonne.

Śniadanie: owsianka, jajko, ciapata (lokalny rodzaj pieczywa – chlebonaleśnikoplacek) – w zasadzie zawsze to samo. Lunch: makaron albo ryż, mięso jaka lub kozy (które przyszły 3 miesiące temu do bazy, tu zostały zabite, wpakowane do beczek i zdeponowane w szczelinie). Kolacja: mniam, makaron lub ryż, mięcho (jaka – twarde, kozy – śrmirdzące), warzywo (kapusta kiszona lub buraczki – które przyjechały w beczce z Polski), deser i w zasadzie to wszystko takie samo z małymi wariacjami. W obozach powyżej bazy sytuacja wygląda zupełnie inaczej. Tam zajadamy same frykasy: gorący kubek, słodka chwila, puszkowy pasztet jeśli uda się go rozmrozić, kabanos, baton, duuużo herbaty, rybki z puszki, duuużo heraty i już.”

Baza zimowej wyprawy PZA na Broad Peak – 23 stycznia 2011.

Od dnia wylądowania w bazie drugiej grupy uczestników tj.od 19.01 utrzymują się – jak na zimę -znośne warunki pogodowe. Gdyby nie rekordowo niskie temperatury – w bazie minus 32 a na 8000 minus 50 – można by powiedzieć, że wręcz idealne. Wiatr przez te dni jest jak na zimę słaby. W bazie prawie nie wieje a w górze ok 40 km/h – tylko patrzeć jak zaraz Simone i Denis rozprawią się z GII.

Na przylot drugiej grupy wszystkie zespoły zeszły do bazy. Dnia 20 i 21 stycznia druga grupa potrzebowała na zaadaptowanie się do wysokości – w końcu wylądowali w bazie 4 dnia od wylotu z Polski. Nie obyło się więc bez odchorowywania, różnego typu perturbacji zdrowotnych. Niemniej jednak pracowano nad rozbudową bazy i logistyką jej działania.

Dla drugiej grupy bolesne było nagłe zderzenie z realiami zimy w Karakorum. Nagłe przejście na temperaturę minus 32 było szokiem. Przejście z ogrzewanej messy do namiotu i wejście do zamarzniętego śpiwora było nie lada wyzwaniem. Przy wszystkich operacjach grabiały ręce na granicy odmrożenia.

22 stycznia podjęto akcję górską. Tylko Hajzer, Kaczkan, Snopczyński pozostali w bazie. Reszta wyszła w górę w celu dociągnięcia poręczówek do obozu II, transportu, aklimatyzacji. W obozie drugim złożono depozyt (tlen ratunkowy i namiot). Wieczorem wszystkie zespoły wróciły do bazy.

Po odpoczynku ciąg dalszy nastapi.

Artur Hajzer – kierownik wyprawy
(Info dodał Marek Karnecki dnia 23.01.2011)

* Źródło: – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/

** Zobacz też:

- Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

- Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

- Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

Nieruchomości on line

drytooling.com.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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