Winter climbs 2008 – Karakoram – part 1. /Version polish and english/

Makalu BC.

image story Italian Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich (Update Jan 23, 2010: the tragedy in Slovenia – see below) are attempting Makalu together with Kazakh climbers Denis Urubko, Serguey Samoilov, Eugeny Shutov and Gennady Durov. Live image from the peak courtesy of the Italian expedition website

“It’s beautiful and at the moment the wind is tolerable.” Nives, Romano and Luca arrived Makalu BC Tuesday evening and posted some images from the expedition.

The climbers have not yet received all their gear, which latest was still sitting in Hillary BC. It will take a few more days for the porters to take it to BC proper, and for the base to be fully established.

The mountaineers have already held their Puja so they are ready to climb. First goal is to establish a gear cache and scout the wall.

image story

Makalu BC. Image courtesy of the Italian expedition website

Luca Vuerich [update Jan 23, 2010 : KRANJSKA GORA, Slovenia – A new tragedy strikes the Italian mountaineering. A few hours ago has died in hospital of Udine Luca Vuerich, 34, a renowned mountaineer Friulian known for his skills on ice climbing and expeditions in the Himalayas shared with Romano Benet and Nives Meroi. Vuerich was overwhelmed by an avalanche while climbing a waterfall of ice in Slovenia.
The fatality appears to have occurred at around 9 Jan 22, 2010. According to preliminary reports, Vuerich was climbing with a friend over a waterfall Slovenian sorp Karnjska Gora, on the border between Friuli and Slovenia, where a huge avalanche came off above them and swept right in Friulian, dragging him into a canal of the mountain for several tens of meters.
Immediately alert the mountain rescue, who spoke with a team of Cave Predil and has recovered. The climber was still alive, but with very serious injuries which could not survive if not for a few hours. According to the local press, would Vuerich died around 15, shortly after his arrival in hospital.
Vuerich, mountain guide, was born on December 11, 1975 Gemona del Friuli. Had started to go to the mountains since childhood with his father Luciano, in turn excellent climber and photographer. Having taken the first steps in the Julian Alps, where he opened thirty new ways, has made about 600 climbs over the Alps. His specialty was the climbs on ice, for which was appreciated internationally. “It could even climb on the glass,” he said of him Nives Meroi.
Seven years ago was a magical encounter with the couple for Italian excellence of mountaineering, Nives Meroi, precisely, and Romano Benet. With the two was immediately understood. “A milestone and a chance for me was knowing Romano and Nives – Vuerich says on his site – which in ’93 had not yet risen but no 8 thousand were the strongest climbers in the area.”
And with them in later years, he shared many adventures to 8000 meters in the Himalayas and Karakorum. Six years ago was part of the K2-2004 expedition 50 years later “led by Agostino Da Polenza, while his last expedition to the highest peaks in the world dating back to 2008. At that time he touched the summit of Manaslu and attempt Makalu in Winter , both times with the pair of Tarvisio.]

* * Source : – http://www.montagna.tv/?q=node/11647

Broad Peak: Chopper holding for weather.

Over in Pakistan, Simone and his men are holding in Skardu waiting for the weather to clear for their lift to Broad Peak BC.

The days are spent climbing local peaks, strolling the city and spending cold days in the hotel room working the PC for downloads of videos. Simone hopes that Saturday will provide the forecasted 3 days of clear sky which would allow the team’s arrival on the mountain.

None of Pakistan’s 8000ers (K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, GI, and GII) have been summited in winter. In Nepal, only Makalu still remains unclimbed during the cold season.

This winter season Italian Simone Moro, Leonhard Werth. and Pakistan Shaheen Baig and Qudrat Ali are attempting Broad Peak; while Italian Nives Meroi, Romano Benet and Luca Vuerich are attempting Makalu together with Kazakh climbers Denis Urubko, Serguey Samoilov, Eugeny Shutov and Gennady Durov.

Pierwsze wejścia (update Jan 2010):

L.p. Nazwa Wysokość m n.p.m. Data zdobycia Pierwsi zdobywcy Data zdobycia winter Pierwsi zdobywcy winter
1 Mount Everest ok. 8850 29 maja 1953 Edmund Hillary (Nowa Zelandia),Norgay Tenzing (Nepal) 17 lutego 1980 Krzysztof Wielicki iLeszek Cichy (Polska)
2 K2 8611 31 lipca 1954 Achille Compagnoni iLino Lacedelli (Włochy) niezdobyty zimą
3 Kanczendzonga 8586 25 maja 1955 George Band iJoe Brown (Anglia) 11 stycznia 1986 Jerzy Kukuczka iKrzysztof Wielicki (Polska)
4 Lhotse 8516 18 maja 1956 Fritz Luchsinger iErnst Reiss (Szwajcaria) 31 grudnia 1988 Krzysztof Wielicki (Polska)
5 Makalu 8463 15 maja 1955 Lionel Terray iJean Couzy (Francja) 9 luty 2009 Simone Moro i Dennis Urubko
6 Cho Oyu 8201 19 października 1954 Sepp Joechler iHerbert Tichy (Austria),Psan Dawa Lama (Nepal) 12 lutego 1985 Maciej Berbeka iMaciej Pawlikowski (Polska)
7 Dhaulagiri 8167 13 maja 1960 Kurt Diemberger iAlbin Schelbert (Austria),Nawang Dorje (Nepal) 21 stycznia 1985 Andrzej Czok iJerzy Kukuczka (Polska)
8 Manaslu 8156 9 maja 1956 Toshio Imanishi (Japonia),Gyaltsen Norbu (Nepal) 12 stycznia 1984 Maciej Berbeka iRyszard Gajewski (Polska)
9 Nanga Parbat 8126 3 lipca 1953 Hermann Buhl (Austria) niezdobyty zimą
10 Annapurna I 8091 3 czerwca 1950 Maurice Herzog iLouis Lachenal (Francja) 3 lutego 1987 Artur Hajzer iJerzy Kukuczka (Polska)
11 Gasherbrum I 8068 4 lipca 1958 Andy Kauffman iPete Schoening (USA) niezdobyty zimą
12 Broad Peak 8047 9 czerwca 1957 Hermann Buhl,Kurt Diemberger,Markus Schmuck iFritz Wintersteller (Austria) niezdobyty zimą
13 Gasherbrum II 8035 7 lipca 1956 Sepp Larch,Fritz Moravec iHans Willenpart (Austria) niezdobyty zimą
14 Shisha Pangma 8013 2 maja 1964 Hsu Ching (Chiny) 14 stycznia 2005 Piotr Morawski (Polska) iSimone Moro (Włochy)

2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: – It’s over:

* see – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Zima w Himalajach.

Sezon zimowy w najwyższych górach rozpoczął się od próby mało znanego włoskiego alpinisty Simone La Terra na Nanga Parbat.

Włoch założył bazę pod flanką Diamir już 3 grudnia 2007. Wraz ze swoim partnerem — doświadczonym alpinistą z Hunzy Mehrbanem Karimem — 10 grudnia rozbił obóz I na wysokości 6000 m. Silne wiatry i mróz sięgający minus 35 stopni utrudniały wspinaczkę. Gdy 21 grudnia wiatr zniszczył namioty bazowe i zwiał sprzęt kuchenny, La Terra postanowił przerwać wyprawę.

Inny Włoch — dobrze nam znany Simone Moro — zamierza ponowić zeszłoroczną próbę zimowego wejścia na Broad Peak. Na razie spotkało go niepowodzenie — zdeponowany w Skardu sprzęt po zeszłorocznej próbie, został niemal cały rozkradziony. Zginęły m.in. generatory, śpiwory i sprzęt wspinaczkowy. Moro nie rezygnuje i próbuje zdobyć brakujące wyposażenie.


Od lewej: Romano Benet, Nives Meroi i Luca Vuerich.

Nadzwyczaj ciekawe i trudne przedsięwzięcie ma przed sobą włosko-kazachska wyprawa na Makalu. Zimowego wejścia na ten wyjątkowo narażony na wichury ośmiotysięcznik, który odparł już kilka polskich prób i kosztował życie sławnego Francuza Jean Christophe Lafaille`a, podejmie się włoskie małżeństwo Romano Benet i Nives Meroi w towarzystwie młodego alpinisty Luca Vuerich`a. Kazachską część wyprawy tworzyć będą Denis Urubko, Siergiej Samojłow oraz mniej znani Jewgienij Szutow i Gienadij Durow. Zarówno Włosi jak i Kazachowie dotarli już do Katmandu.

* Źródło: mounteverest.net / PZA

* Zobacz :

Krzysztof Wielicki: Historia zdobycia K-2.

Krzysztof Wielicki: zimowa wyprawa na Lhotse – pierwsze zdobycie szczytu zimą 1988r.

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

Nieruchomości on line

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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7 Responses

  1. Your site has won a Blog of the Day Award (BOTDA)

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    Thank you,

    famous quotes

  2. Tyle masz tych blogów,że się można pogubić 🙂

    Jak dotarli do Katmandu,to znaczy,że niewiele im zostało do wspinaczki…

  3. Karakoram is a mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, China, and India, located in the regions of Gilgit, Ladakh, and Baltistan. It is one of the Greater Ranges of Asia, often considered together with the Himalaya, but not technically part of that range. Karakoram means “black gravel” in Turkic, as many of its glaciers are covered in rubble.

  4. Jestem naprawdę zadowolony polecam

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