Routes – part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/

South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 2.

Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 / photo on the right/. With supplemental oxygen, Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay made their way to the top via the South Col, that became the most used climbing route to the summit.

In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned to Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing pairs to attempt to reach the summit. The first pair turned back after becoming exhausted high on the mountain. The next day, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with its fittest and most determined climbing pair. The summit was eventually reached at 11:30 a.m. local time on May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal climbing the South Col Route. At the time, both acknowledged it as a team effort by the whole expedition, but Tenzing revealed a few years later that Hillary had put his foot on the summit first. They paused at the summit to take photographs and buried a few sweets and a small cross in the snow before descending. News of the expedition’s success reached London on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. Returning to Kathmandu a few days later, Hillary and Hunt discovered that they had been promptly knighted for their effort.

Mapka wyżej przedstawia drogę Edmunda Hilary’ego i Szerpy Tenzinga Norgaya :

Droga Edmunda Hilary’ego i Szerpy Tenzinga Norgaya, droga pierwszego udanego wejścia na szczyt z 29 maja 1953r., zwana też drogą klasyczną, a czasami ” łatwą” , ale to pozory bo wszak wiadomo, że w Wysokich Górach nic nie jest łatwe.
W tej pamiętnej wyprawie brało udział 10 Europejczyków i 39 Szerpów, a ciekawostka jest fakt, że tamta historyczna wyprawa założyła aż 9 obozów, obecnie zakłada się jedynie : obóz bazowy – zwany też BC i cztary obozy wyższe, czyli razem 5. Droga na szczyt wiodła wtedy od obozu I (5400m) na lodowcu Khumbu (obecnie obóz I to właśnie BC ), przez Iceffal z wielkimi i groźnymi szczelinami oraz serakami ( wielu twierdzi, że przejście Iceffalu to loteria o śmierć i życie ), aż do obozu IV (6400m) założonego w bezwietrznym wąwozie, który himalaiści nazwali Dolina Ciszy, a dalej nad Kotłem Zachodnim założono obóz VII (7300m), skąd wspinacze wspinali się na Przełęcz Południową do obozu VIII (7900m), a potem do obozu IX (8500m), stąd nastąpił atak szczytowy granią szczytową poprzez Wierzchołek Południowy i uskok przed szczytem dziś zwany uskokiem Hilary’ego.

Wejście na Everest miało być prezentem koronacyjnym dla Elżbiety II.

Other Routes – part 1.

A – 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, via the South Col, Nepal.

B – On May 19, 1980 Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka (on the Polish National Expedition led by Andrezej Zswada) established a new Everest route by following the South Pillar on the right-hand edge of the Southwest Face.

The South Pillar

Another relatively safe route up Everest – if there really is such a thing as a “safe” route on Everest! – is the South Pillar, first climbed in 1980 by Polish super-alpinists Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok.

The route has been climbed in it’s entirety a total of 17 times with one fatality. The Polish team spent 16 days establishing the route through the difficult rock barriers towards the top of the route, so many climbers opt to traverse across to the SE Ridge lower down.

28 climbers have traversed over from this route and safely summited. The one fatality that occurred on the complete S Pillar route was Josef Psotka in 1984, who after successfully summiting was killed in a fall, but it was from the Lhotse Face while descending the standard SE Ridge route. So to date there have been no fatalities on the South Pillar itself.

Na zdjęciu czerwone linie pokazują drogi na szczyt :
A- Brytyjska droga z 1953r wiodła przez Wierzchołek Południowy.
B- Polska droga z 1980r wiodła wzdłuż południowego filara.

Droga polska została wytyczona przez wyprawę kierowaną przez Andrzeja Zawadę, pierwsze wejście południowym filarem, a ściślej miedzy filarem a południowo -wschodnia granią; 19 maja 1980r na szczycie stanęli Jerzy Kukuczka i Andrzej Czok.

Ciekawostka jest, że Zawada kierował nieco wcześniej wyprawą zimową. Pamiętna wyprawa i wielki sukces polskich himalaistów, bo po raz pierwszy w zimie, 17 lutego 1980r szczyt Everestu zdobyli Leszek Cichy i Krzysztof Wielicki.

* Zapraszam też do oglądania albumu o Everescie, wystarczy kliknąć link : Odkrywanie Everestu

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga


2 Responses

  1. […] Torn and frayed in Manila wrote an interesting post today on Routes – part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/Here’s a quick excerptIt was the route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 / photo on the right /. With supplemental oxygen, Edmund Hillary of New… […]

  2. Himalman, I have clearly stated in my disclaimer at that:

    “Comments that are off-topic, offensive, slanderous, or otherwise objectionable may be summarily deleted.”

    I have been carefully considering your comment on my blog at 03:44am, 9th February. I assume it is a generic comment and has been posted on numerous sites. I feel it is a shameless example of self-publication and is clearly not intended to further the debate carried out by my blog or provide further relevant information to its readers.

    I feel that, after considering the wider implications, allowing any form of advertising or publication (no matter how well meaning) of the type your comment certainly is, could be detrimental to the blog. It would certainly be in contradiction to the strict policy I have adopted on the site of not allowing any advertising on any of the pages. If I made an exception in this case I would be creating a dangerous precedent which could undermine the commenting system. I have, therefore, deleted you comment.

    However, I have placed a link to your blog in my blog roll so that readers can see your voting badge for themselves and decide whether or not to vote for you within the context of your blog content.

    If you have any further comments on this issue please do not hesitate to contact me through disquieted.muse at, rather than using the commenting function of this blog or mine.

    Best of luck with the competition

    Jacob Diggle

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: