10 expeditions to K2; 50 total to 8000+; about 25 to the spires & lower peaks – the 2008 Karakoram season is unreal and the list of expeditions is up.
Last week also offered a number of interesting post-Everest stories, while Correne brought with her extensive news updates from Greenland and the Oceans ran an interview with Erden Eruc.
Karakoram action is ON Eyes are on the Himalayan Triptych Reactivated.
There is the long traverse of the three Gasherbrum peaks that has never been completed in full before. Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski will attempt it via the American route from Gasherbrum I side and descend from the pass between GII and GIII. Then Piotr Pustelnik will join up for a Broad Peaks’ traverse – first done in 1984 by Kurtyka and Kukuczka who started from K2 BC, climbed across the two Broad Peaks and descended from the main Broad Peak via the normal route. The Himalayan Triptych however will try a ridge from the top of BP going down towards Concordia that has never been done in full. With this ridge, they would accomplish a complete traverse of Broad Peak’s points.
Fast moves on K2, Gerlinde’s no-go, and other latest On K2’s SSE Spur, Norit climbers are already closing in on C3. The climbers describe the route as more technical than the Abruzzi. Health issues from Lhotse forced Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to skip her K2 attempt this summer; Nick Rice reported three worthy replacements joining his French-led K2 team: Christian Tromsdorff, Yannick Graziani, and Patrick Wagnon.
Slovaks “Dodo” Kopold and Vlado Plulík are in Gasherbrums’ BC ready to climb GI and GII for starters – then moving to Broad and finally K2. Another hat-trick (both Gasherbrums and Broad Peak) is scheduled to kick off June 15 by Russian/Canadian Valery Babanov. The G4 Spanish team is in place as well; and it seems the flights to Skardu are running, reported Field Touring.
And it’s up! 2008 list of Karakoram expeditions published 10 expeditions to K2; 50 total to 8000+; about 25 to the spires & lower peaks – the 2008 Karakoram season is unreal. Ten years back only the most hardcore mountaineers went to Pakistan – not anymore; with the recent events in China and Nepal; all of a sudden Pakistan seems the hub of safety and order. An unusual large number of Americans are coming to Pakistan this season; and just about all the big names in the international climbing elite are enroute; some without even a breath of rest from recent ascents in Nepal Himalaya.
Everest and Himalaya Season’s end ChronicleBrazilian writer and chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto Peron compiled an amazing season’s end report from the past Everest and Himalaya season. Check in for all the latest names on the 14, 8000ers quest, new routes and difficult repetitions, the national firsts/oldest/ womens/repeaters/etc records, and the absolute numbers of all Himalaya summits this season.
The Everest Free-Tibet banner affair: Benegas unanswered questions If you search ExWeb for keyword “Benegas” you’ll find nothing but good stories about Willie and Damian. Recently though, the brothers threatened ExWeb with lawsuits and articles in US climbing mags for even mentioning (!) the “banner affair” involving young American climber Brant Holland who was expelled from Everest. In answer to their threats; ExWeb offered an interview but the brothers refused – stating they were unhappy with the questions.
“It’s one thing to not protest violations of human rights,” ExWeb concluded the story. “That’s each and everyone’s personal choice. But when Americans start to report fellow Americans to communist dictators in order to secure business; when refugee children are called prostitutes by international commercial guides; when the only guide reporting murders of innocent people is expelled by the commercial fraternity; and when media is bullied by the same commercial forces – we have a different ball game entirely.”
M&I memorial week special: Gareth Thomas rethinking Mallory and Irvine The Mallory and Irvine saga continues to mesmerize its researchers. Gareth Thomas from Westminster compiled another theory about the two Everest pioneers in February this year. Early March political events on Everest north side stole the show however, and Gareth’s story was put on a back burner. Last Sunday came the 8th June memorial day, and ExWeb ended the memorial week with – at last – Gareth’s story.
ExWeb’s interview with Erden Eruc, “adjustment will take a while” Imagine yourself alone with the sea for almost a year; locked up in a tiny rowing boat and nothing else. Following his 310 day Pacific record row; Erden arrived to a hero’s welcome in Santos where ExWeb caught up with him for an interview.
Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Broad Peak, Climbers, Dodo Kopold, expeditions to K2, Gasherbrum, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Himalayan Triptych Reactivated, K2, Karakoram, Piotr Pustelnik, Week-In-Review |