An overdue monsoon is affecting Nepal Himalaya action while in Pakistan, the Marriott bombing offered one last complication for the Dream Free Trango team.
There was a story about survival and an interview with a polar legend. Yet biggest news at ExWeb last week was the amazing HET Power 50 battery: small enough to fit in your pocket it will charge all your devices including your laptop – and recharge from a small solar panel!
HumanEdgeTech proudly presents: P50 – the missing link For a long time, people have begged team HumanEdgeTech, “how do I charge my laptop from a solar panel?” Small enough to fit in your pocket and approved flight carry on – HET Power 50 is a Lithium/polymer battery that will charge all your devices including your laptop – and recharge from a small solar panel. P50 is the smartest battery on the market today, with almost unlimited versatility. It recharges from solar power ranging from 1W to 100W and allows you to choose 5-19V; comes with 8 adapter tips for major brands of computers and plugs for all sat phones/BGANs. Read more about it in last week’s feature story.
Manaslu – 4 feet under In C1 last weekend, around 60 tents were buried under about 4 feet of snow. In addition to Altitude Junkies, Project Himalaya, Himex and Henry Todd; a number of non-commercial expeditions are in place. Nives and Romano’s Italian team reached BC on Monday, adding up to the near 20 expeditions on the peak and reporting a very different place from last fall when they were alone on the mountain.
Friendship Beyond Borders American Tom McMillan (Best of ExWeb in 2004 for Everest climb with amputee friend Nawang Sherpa) hoped to climb Cho Oyu with Nawang’s brother Ang Dawa and Colo res Pete Lardy. Chinese restrictions forced them to Manaslu instead. Edurne Pasaban and Al Filo reported an expedition leaders’ meeting where it was decided that her group would fix the upper ropes in return for lines fixed lower on the mountain by other teams before their arrival; and to contribute financially to Sherpas who roped the route to C1 and C2. Many are running out of time, and a number of climbers plan to use O2 from C3 on summit push. The crowds and the weather has been pulling on Manaslu climbers’ nerves, Mexican Yuri concluded.
Also on Cho Oyu winds destroyed tents in C1 last weekend. SummitClimb’s Sherpa fixed the route through meter deep snow to camp 2 and pitched the first tent of the season there, they reported. In addition to SummitClimb, IMG, Field Touring and an Italian team; Spanish Extremadura reported on a big (and loud) Chinese expedition in ABC which fixed a tricky section.
“The Olympics may have been great for some, but disastrous for others,” reported Spanish Jesús Calleja enroute to Makalu, about Sherpas living on top of each other in tiny, dirty rooms of KTM while looking for work as porters. Chinese’s restrictions on Tibetan mountains have left many unemployed, after an already difficult spring following the then closing of Everest and Himalaya. Previously, expeditions heading for Shisha and Cho Oyu provided 50% of the jobs during fall season, Jesus reported.
Makalu – Jesus team Indian Shekhar Babu and American Ian Yurdin and Mark Cartier are adding up to Jesús Calleja’s team on Makalu’s normal route while House, Anderson and Prezelj are on their way to the west face. Shekhar is climbing with Ngima Nuru and Kusang Sherpa. The 27-year-old is the First Indian to have climbed Everest as an individual––ie only with a sherpa and not as part of any team and without the support of any government or NGO. He has also climbed Shisha Pangma. Ian and his wife Kristen own the Terrebonne Depot, the restaurant every climber passes at the old train station on the way to Smith Rock in Oregon.
Annapurna: Also Brad Clement’s team were stuck in their tents for 5 days due to excessive snow fall. Troillet’s team was equally stuck on Annapurna’s south side. A 12-member team from Croatia is heading for Annapurna II (7937m). The team will climb via the peak’s West ridge, after approaching from the north. Then they’ll head for a ski descent on Anna IV.
Pakistan: Marriott bombing the last crux Ice and cold finally beat the Dream Free international team on Trango’s Nameless Tower. Exhausted and cold, after a long fight for every meter they eventually descended. “Already we have another challenge to overcome,” they reported,” following the terrorist attack on the Marriott Hotel in Islamabad on 22 September, British Airways have cancelled all flights into and out of the capital – INDEFINITELY! A BA spokesman told me yesterday this could be for as long as until the end of 2008! So just getting home is now a real adventure.”
Kangchenjunga: Vikings not made for the jungle Swede Fredrik Eriksson and Norwegian Jörgen Aamot are trekking through rainforests toward Kangchenjunga’s BC, “Jörgen and I have agreed that we are not made for the jungle,” Fred vented, “It’s warm and moist, the rocks are slippery and leeches are attacking us from all directions.”
Baruntse Bad weather has kept also Baruntse teams at bay.
Sherpa perished on Ambulapcha La A small trekking group were involved in an accident on the south side of Ambulapcha La. One Sherpa was reportedly killed in a fall and another Sherpa was injured. The weather prevented an airlift, so parts of AC crew left Baruntse to offer advanced first aid and coordinate the helicopter rescue as the group who had the accident lacked safety gear such as communications equipment, oxygen, GPS and such.
“Hughes on summit” – Patrick Gabarrou’s wedding gift to Constance Last weekend, renowned French Alpinist Patrick Gabarrou opened a new TD route on the North Face of Grandes Jorasses. He named it “Hughes d’en Haut” (Hughes is at the top) in memory of Hughes d’Aubarede – one of the 11 casualties of the 2008 K2 drama. Patrick offered the line as a wedding gift to Hughes’s daughter Constance, who was married this Saturday in Chamonix.
Mt. Everest Mind Camp – learn from the winners, not the whiners Everest is a rock we climb to learn something about ourselves. Mainly, are we survivors? “The most important characteristic of the survivor is to have a solid inner core. At heart, a survivor trusts himself and relies on himself. He or she is confident, but also humble, and when the crisis comes, he doesn’t spend too much time asking ‘why me’ or looking for blame. Instead, the survivor immediately tries to find ways to fix the situation,” according to Author of Deep Survival, Laurence Gonzales, this months’ guest at the motivational website Mt. Everest Mind Camp.
ExWeb’s interview with Richard Weber: Turning his compass South How did they find their caches on the moving ice and why were the depots not eaten by bears or swallowed by an open lead? Richard Weber has reached the North Pole six times from land with one return journey to Ward Hunt Island with Misha Malakhov. ExWeb’s Correne Coetzer caught up with Richard for an interview. This 2008/9 Antarctic summer Richard is heading to Antarctica for the first time.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Annapurna, Cho Oyu, Climbers, Everest, Himalayas, K2, Kangchenjunga, Karakoram, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Pakistan, Piotr Pustelnik, Pumori, Trango Towers, Week-In-Review |