Winter Nanga Parbat timeline: The Killer Mountain’s 8-0 score.

ExWeb special – Winter Nanga Parbat timeline:
The Killer Mountain’s 8-0 score

( Up to now, eight expeditions have attempted Nanga Parbat in winter (or near   1-winds-punishing-nanga-parbat-newwinter) – and failed. The latest real winter attempt was made by a strong team of Polish winter wolves including Wielicki and Hajzer.

In a few weeks time another set of Polish climbers will try their luck.

Here goes ExWeb’s third entry about previous winter attempts on the upcoming 2008/09 winter climbs: today Rodrigo Granzotto’s report on Nanga Parbat; a.k.a the “Killer Mountain.”

Nanga Parbat Winter History
By Rodrigo Granzotto Peron

The first winter attempt on Nanga Parbat was done in 1988/89 by a Polish team under the leadership of Maciej Berbeka. Bad conditions forced a re-route from the primary target SE Buttress to the Messner Route on the Rupal Flank. The summit bid was halted at 6800 meters.

Frostbite and rescue for record climbers

Berbeka was back for another round in 1990/91. After failing again on the Messner Route (6800 meters), he decided to try the long Schell Route. But it was too late in the season and the team gave up at 6600 meters.

In 1995/96 another Polish expedition, now under leadership of Maciej Pawlowski, made a serious attempt to 7850m on Diamir Flank (Kinshofer Route). The two climbers that reached the highest point – Zbigniew Trzmiel and Krzysztof Pankiewicz – suffered frostbites and were rescued by helicopter from 3900m.

In 1996/97 UK Victor Saunders showed up with Danish/Swedish Rafael Jensen and Pakistan Ghulam Hassan to attempt the Kinshofer Route. The trio gave up already in early December.

In 1997/98 Andrzej Zawada, 69 years old at the time, commanded a team of Polish stars that included Ryszard Pawlowski, Jerzy Natkanski and Dariusz Zaluski. The chosen route was Kinshofer on Diamir Flank. After an initially fast progress problems began to accumulate. Camp I was destroyed; BC was wrecked two days later and two weeks after Pawlowski broke his leg. The expedition was canceled at last.

The Austrian attempt and the veteran winter wolves

In 2004/2005 the Kinshofer Route on Diamir Flank was attempted again – this time by Austrian brothers Gerfried Goschl and Rainer Wolfgang Goschl, along with Pakistan Hasil Shah and Mehrban Shah. A number of problems, deep snow and high winds forced a premature cancellation also of their expedition.

In 2006/2007 Krzysztof Wielicki arrived with a strong and experienced team (Jan Szulc, Artur Hajzer,  Krzysztof   c2-during-the-winter-2006_07-attempt_wielicki-newTarasewicz, Dariusz Zaluski and others) to climb the Schell Route on the Rupal Flank. They were defeated at 6800 meters by knee-deep snow and hurricane winds.

In 2007 Italian dark horse Simone La Terra challenged the Kinshofer Route accompanied by Pakistan Mehrban Karim. It was over already at 6000 meters when high winds flattened the kitchen-tent, damaging all gear and blowing away provisions.

Polish ruling the real winter

While there were 8 cold expeditions on Nanga Parbat; only three took place in real winter – the 1st, the 3rd and the 5th – all Polish. The others were “partial winter” or “late autumn” attempts. The highest point reached to this day was 7850m, by the 3rd expedition led by Maciej Pawlowski.

* see :

Polish Winter Nanga Parbat Expeditin 2008/09. Zimowa Wyprawa na Nanga Parbat 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

Don Bowie’s website

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over –

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