One was checking his sms, the other was having a smoke. Canuck Don Bowie shot a great image last week of what it’s like to climb winter 8000ers in Polish style.
South Pole might, or might not, have a brand new speed record. It’s close, very close, between Todd and leggy blonde Hannah McKeand. Also last week, Himalaya’s own ‘Dostoyevsky’ Denis Urubko submitted a wild Makalu winter debrief.
Final word – are you ready? 2008 ExWeb awards kick off December 23!
Polish HiMountain Winter BP expedition: Artur Hajzer’s team hoped to be airlifted to BC December 18th: this means that the guys are set for a true winter climb, starting at winter solstice Dec 21. Waiting for the flight, the climbers fled Skardu for some team-work drills at 4000 meters – where Don shot the above mentioned image.
Polish Nanga Parbat climbers Jacek Teler, for some reason nick-named “Blue Taliban” by locals, and his team cleared the trail for porters in three feet of snow, in order to establish BC as close as possible to the mountain foot. Still the caravan reached only 5km away from Nanga Parbat’s Diamir face, with BC set at 4,065m. To shelter from the wind, staff spent the night inside the mess-tent.
Czechs on Manaslu The Czech team is in Manaslu BC.
Pustelnik juniors awarded at Bansko A documentary about Piotr Pustelnik’s sons was awarded first prize on the 8th International Mountain Film Festival held in Bansko (Bulgaria) on November 27-30th. Polish Krzysztow Wielicki, Norwegian Borge Ousland and Italian Gustav Thoeni were among festival guests.
Himalayan climbing history for auction on eBay – for Tibet Bob A. Schelfhout Aubertijn is a funny guy and you might remember his satire “First on Everest” published at ExWeb shortly after the past controversial season. There is a serious side to the former climber and it’s about democracy. Bob has been collecting some cool pieces of mountain memorabilia, which he now plans to sell to the highest bidder on eBay with all profits to go to Savetibet. Also offered are signed copies of “Tomaz Humar” the latest book by Bernadette McDonald.
Kite on a rope: Makalu’s winter rules by Denis Urubko “She sings mad tunes; she cries out, ‘poor suckers,’ at us for not braving her slopes. She mourns and she threats, a mute question of ‘when?’ sounding in each high pitch.” Preparing for a second round against the ‘Great Black,’ Urubko compiled a must-read debrief from his past winter attempt on Makalu.
Karakoram 2008 season’s end report Himalaya statisticians – what a mess mountaineering would be without them. Reuters correspondent Liz Hawley has had first dibs on most climbing news in Nepal and China for the last five decades making a name for herself over time. Less known is ‘Santa of Karakoram’ Saad Tariq Siddiqi, who just compiled the results for the 2008 climbing year in Pakistan.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Artur Hajzer, Broad Peak, Climbers, Himalayas, HiMountain, Ice Warriors, Karakoram, Krzysztof Wielicki, Nanga Parbat, Pakistan, Piotr Morawski, Polish climbers, Simone Moro, Travel, Week-In-Review, winter expedition |