HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 10.

hajzer HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, January 12

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) Artur, Robert and Don are back from C3. Following only 18 days on Broad Peak, the team is ready for a summit push: after the storm, that is.

Broad Peak: Team back from C3 – ready to face the storm, and then attempt the summit

“We’re Back from Camp 3 at 7000 meters, resting in base camp and waiting for a spell of good weather to try artur-hajzer-on-winter-broad-peak-newfor…dare I say,” Don Bowie reported earlier today. “In 18 days since our arrival, we have spent 10 days of activity on the mountain – a remarkable feat for even a summer expedition. We take our fast progress in stride, committed to the long haul, knowing that long spells of bad weather and other challenges lay ahead.”

“We now face the first long spell of stormy weather – a time for rest, replenishment, and some base camp musings and ridiculousness – so expect a few of these over the next week or two,” the Canadian climber added. “

Don’s thoughts on winter 8000ers climbing

A seasoned Himalayan climber on his first winter expedition to a Baltoro giant, Don reflects on what it means to climb in Karakoram winter:

“Personally, I feel content, but most of all, I feel grateful to be on another expedition in the high mountains,” Don stated. “This is one of many winter trips for me, but my first expedition to the big mountains in the cold season. Some things are different than climbing in the Karakoram in summer, others are the same. The most obvious differences are the cold and the remoteness. It is both amazing and daunting to have the Baltoro all to ourselves.”

“Climbing between the higher camps, I find that my fingers and toes go numb quite frequently, losing sensation sometimes for an hour or more. But, I am not climbing using my warmest gear: I’m saving my down suit for the next push to the summit.”  artur-and-robert-departing-from-broad-peaks-c3-new1

“The wind bites immediately at any exposed skin, and I’ve already suffered a little black line of frost nip on my cheek and nose – which should peel off in a few days. Call it my yearly exfoliation, if not a low-class spa treatment. Ahh, the measures we go to for good skin.”

“One of the oddest things I have experienced on this winter expedition is the phenomenon of relative comfort, and how this changes with the immediate environment. After being spat out of the hovering MI-17 (helicopter) on December 23rd, I remember looking at the desolate, windblown, frozen moraine and thinking, “Wow! This is home for a few months. Yeesh!”

“However, after a few weeks of climbing, I now peer down from thousands of feet above, onto that very same spot which our base camp now inhabits, and think, “Hmmm. It would be nice to be in cozy base camp right now.” Cozy base camp? Who in their right mind would look at this place and think “cozy”?”

We are not 3 – but 8 team members

Finally, a word about lesser known team members. “I want to make more clear just exactly who ‘we’ are,” Don wrote. “Most of our images and videos have contained only a portion of the team, for we are not 3, we are 8. Duties on the mountain have been split between 2 or 3 groups at a time, with Artur, Robert, and I climbing together – hence the photos and videos of us. But here are the other team members, whose contributions match or exceed any task our team of 3 has performed.”

“These men, as part of the team, carry loads and establish the route as our equals. They are strong, experienced, and keen to succeed. We consider these men our partners: Qadrat Amin, from Shimshal, age 39; Amin Ullah, from Shimshal, age 36; Muhammad Ali, from Sadpara, age 32; Muhammad Taqi, from Hushe, age 28 and Didar (Cook Extraordinaire), from Hunza, age 30.”

Broad Peak – 2008/09. Jacuzzi in Base Camp video 1.

Broad Peak – 2008/09. Jacuzzi in Base Camp video 2.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.10.

Baza i kolejne relacje filmowe.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Baza i kolejne relacje filmowe, 09.01.2009

Nasi himalaiści teraz są w bazie. Dzięki temu mogą nam przesłać kolejne relacje filmowe z  życia u podnóża góry. Poniżej film instruktażowy o tym, jak zbudować solankę:

Himalajska solanka – film.

Trudne jest bazowe życie,  a poniższy materiały filmowy potwierdza to stwierdzenie. W namiocie zaadoptowanym na łazienkę,  żeby zdecydować się na kąpiel, trzeba być bardzo odpornym na zimno:

Kąpiel w obozie bazowym – film.

* źródła :   –  http://pza.org.pl/ –  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

goryonline.com

gieldaturystyki.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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