Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /2/ – Week in Review.

“It was one of the best stories I ever read at ExplorersWeb,” wrote a climber about the Vlado Plulik special last week.

Other news: Antarctica is closing, Erden is back out at sea; Piolet d’Or is due for a comeback; there is fast going on Makalu; and a summit push on Broad Peak might be brewing.

Vlado Plulik update: a family’s search for truth about the Baltoro Express Following the accident on Broad Peak last summer, Vlado Plulik’s family have done a tremendous job piecing together the events leading to his death, posting on Vlado’s website a number of interviews with climbers and experts. Three of Dodo’s climbing mates have been left to descend alone, without adequate gear, close to 8000+ meters. Two of them died. The Slovak Mountaineering Association deemed Dodo’s G1 and BP summit evidence “inaccurate and misleading” and his description of events related to Vlado’s fate “a grave violation of the ethical and sport performance principles of the mountaineering association.” Check in for the full story at ExplorersWeb.

Piolet d’Or brought back to life A revamped international Piolet d’Or is scheduled for April 24/25th. The new president of GHM (Groupe de Haute Montagne/High Mountain Group) Christian Trommsdorff is in charge of the re-launch. “The prize will award most of all ingenuity, climbing innovation and new routes opened in light style,”he told Montagna.org. “Election will be based on style, spirit of exploration, the team’s self-sufficiency, technical skills, the route’s possibilities and risks, efficiency on the use of resources, transparency in reports, respect for team-mates and crew, and the example set for the future generations.”

Kwande Lho: Summit and descent “We rappelled twice into a couloir, then downclimbed to the mouth of ice drainage. Exhaustion peaked… we argued…” A great climb and a thrilling debrief: last week the last of the Kwande Lho reports went up.

Broad Peak Qadrat and Don Bowie revisited the slopes last week to free ropes and restore camp 1, flattened by a recent storm. Above, Amin reported that Camp 2 is fine. “In the wise but simple words of Forrest Gump: ‘Good. Just one less thing’,” Don concluded, adding “keep a watch on next week’s weather…today (Friday) is the first day of sunshine in 12 days.”

Makalu Since they reached BC, Denis and Simone have wasted little time. Friday they hoped to reach 7000 meters, taking advantage of a spell of good weather.

Frostbitten Quintero for an Andes crossing before K2 In spite of extensive frostbite from an Aconcagua winter climb, Brazilian Santiago Quintero summited Makalu without supplementary oxygen last year. Now the climber has set off on a crossing of 35 summits in the Andes – in preps for K2 in May.

Makalu winter history addition Last week, Argentinean Marcelo Espejo added more attempts to Simone Moro’s Makalu winter history, including a British attempt in 1981 where 6 climbers led by Ron Rutland reached 7350 meters. As for the attempt made by Polish Krzysztof Wielicki, Anna Czerwiñska, Ryszard Pawlowski and Belgian Ingrid Bayens. “The expedition took place not in 1998, but in 1990-91,” Marcelo noted. Brazilian chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto confirmed the correction, and added: “Wielicki attempted to climb Makalu’s West Pillar in two winter seasons: 1990/1991 and 2000/2001.” Marcelo added even more winter expeditions on Makalu but Rodrigo Granzotto wrote these were not within calendar winter.

Permit mates wanted A Koream 5-member team going to Manaslu, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri this spring season on the normal routes are looking for climbers to share permits with. Check in with Ang Karma Sherpa of WindhorseTrekking at: winhorse@wlink.com.np.

Attention trekkers, climbers and Sherpas in Khumbu: have you seen Julian?Julian Wynne, 32, was last seen sitting on a rock by the path to the Gokyo-side of Chola pass on December 22 last year. Julian has not collected any of his belongings from his lodge in Namche and hasn’t signed out of the national park. The family has contacted authorities and one member has flown to Nepal in an effort to retrace Julian’s steps. A Facebook group is set up called “Find Julian Wynne” which Julian’s sister is urging everyone to join and to invite all their friends to join. There is also additional info at Trekinfo.com.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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