While in Karakoram none of the 8000ers have been winter climbed, only one remains in Nepal Himalaya – Makalu – where history could be made within the next 12 hours.
Only 8 hours ago (3 am US Mountain Time), Simone called in a voice dispatch stating the men were at 7700 meters, with a view of the summit! He and Denis will attempt final push only a few hours from the time of this posting. Go to ExWeb for the full story and further updates.
Makalu Simone and Denis practiced climbing in hard conditions in the narrow gully towards Makalu La last week, adding altitude to their acclimatization with a climb to 1000 meters below Makalu’s summit and speed climbing to C1 and back. A favorable weather forecast made the men start a summit push Saturday, reaching 7700 meters on Sunday local time.
Broad Peak The weather is still bad in Karakoram – climbers are in BC. “You can’t be nervous or impatient,” Hajzer reflected. “First of all, you can’t make a false start. Second, you can’t give up without a reason, just because of boredom.” The team is running out of gas and food. They ordered a resupply already on January 20th, but first the hired chopper was grounded due to bad weather and then there were difficulties with a new commander in charge.
Spring 2009: Baruntse, anyone? Ang Karma Sherpa from Wind Horse Trekking got possible permit share takers with the Koreans on Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu. Several climbers including Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski (going for Dhaulagiri and Manaslu) have checked in. Four Slovak climbers on a tight budget, arriving Nepal on April 2nd and going for Baruntse, would also like more climbers to join their permit.
Spring 2009 Everest sneak preview Dan Mazur’s SummitClimb outfitter is launching expeditions on Everest (from both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides), Lhotse, and Cho Oyu in spring, 2009. South side Everest’s and Lhotse’s expeditions will be led by San Mansikka, and Arnold Coster will lead the team climbing Everest from Tibet. Meanwhile, Dan will lead the Cho Oyu climb. Registration deadline for Everest teams is February 1, while a second group could be fixed up before February 15.
2009 HumanEdgeTech Everest and Himalaya Special, part 1: the phone and the radio Too many of last year’s victims in Karakoram and Himalaya carried no means of communication – an additional weight of 130gr (4.5oz), or the equivalent of a single warm glove. The 2009 edition of the Everest tech week kicked off with a brush-up of the most basic and important expedition communications tools: the radio and the satellite phone.
HumanEdgeTech Everest Special, part 2: the 2009 High Altitude Package HET’s trademark is software and hardware bundled in ultra-light comms packages. Since 2002, more than 700 expeditions have used the CONTACT software, PDA and sat phone solution: over 20 on Everest only last year. Check out a rerun of the system, with some news for 2009.
2009 HumanEdgeTech Everest Special, part 3: High-speed Internet and Base Camp solutions for a slow economy Climbers’ and outfitters’ chances to get a bite of the spending bill are as slim as the ridge to Shisha’s main summit in a bad year. Fret not: HET’s cost-cut 8848 high-speed stimulus package includes Wideye (dropping the price by more than 50%), low-cost solid state mini laptops and the smart P50 to power it all.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review Tagged: | Artur Hajzer, Broad Peak, Climbers, Everest BC, Himalayas, HiMountain, Ice Warriors, Karakoram, Makalu, Manaslu, Nepal, Polish climbers, Simone Moro, Travel, Week-In-Review, winter expedition