Last week was dominated by a disturbing video showing a climber’s final moments below the summit of Aconcagua. The clip, posted on youtube by the victim’s father, outraged general public in Argentina as well as experienced mountaineers.
In other news; climbers were brutally sent down from Broad Peak’s frigid slopes, but the expedition is still on.
Winter Broad Peak High winds thwarted the team’s summit attempt on Broad Peak. The climbers retreated from C3 after three sleepless nights and four days of struggle in very hard conditions. Pakistani climber Quadrat Ali suffered frostbite and is headed home. Treated in situ by climbing doc Robert Szymczak, Ali will get to keep all his fingers. The remaining climbers, on the mountain for 2 months already, are still sticking it out.
Aconcagua: last moments on YouTube Mountain guide Federico Campanini, 31, and one of his clients (Elena Senin, 38) perished on Aconcagua around January 8 after their group summited via the normal route. On descent, the mountaineers reportedly lost their way in a sudden storm and mistakenly descended the technical Polish route. Federico and Elena reportedly fell to their deaths, while the rest of the team were airlifted out. Last week, a video posted on YouTube by Campanini’s father showed Federico still alive at about 6500 meters/21,000 FT, surrounded by a group of rescuers/guides; some dragging him in a rope, others possibly cursing at him (translations vary) and one asking for permission over radio to leave the crawling climber behind, claiming that he has “no more than 40 minutes to live.”
Makalu: home sweet home Simone Moro arrived back home in Italy on Wednesday. “My family was there waiting for me and organized a small party,” the climber reported. “Denis has remained in Kathmandu waiting for Jagat, Mingma and all the expedition’s equipment. He will let everything to dry up, make an inventory and repair whatever may be damaged. Thank you Denis for your help.”
Andrew Lock’s 14x8000ers grand final: Shisha Pangma + NoO2 Everest Andrew Lock hopes to become the first Australian to complete the 14x8000ers list, by summiting the last peak he has left to climb: Shisha Pangma. After climbing Shisha, he still hopes to attempt a no-O2 ascent on Everest’s north side on his own. “Although he’s summited Everest twice before, both ascents were done with supplementary oxygen, so he’d like to finish off the project with an oxygenless ascent of the big E,” his home team stated.
Spring 2009: Abramov’s team back to Everest – Tibet side Alex Abramov and his “7 Summits-Club” are also heading back to Everest’s Tibetan side. The expedition will include 16 members, 17 Sherpas, 5 guides and a Doctor. Check in next week for the ExWeb list of expeditions and some news on the Chinese side Himalaya situation.
Video clip series focusing on the polar regions Producer Armand Dijcks and polar adventurer Philip de Roo collaborated in the production of a video clips series covering, among other experiences, “the zen of skiing on Greenland’s icecap, the fear felt during a polar storm, and the thrill of dog sledding.” Check Icescapes.tv.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review Tagged: | Abramov’s team, Aconcagua, Artur Hajzer, Broad Peak, Climbers, Everest, Himalayas, HiMountain, Ice Warriors, Karakoram, Makalu, Nepal, Polish climbers, Shisha Pangma, Simone Moro, Travel, Week-In-Review, winter expedition