Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 5. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.5. /Version english and polish/

South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 5.

Yellow Band and Geneva Spur to C4.

From Camp 3 (23,500’/7162m) to Camp 4 (26,300’/8016m) – South Col, climbers are faced with two additional challenges: The Geneva Spur and The Yellow Band. The Geneva Spur is an anvil shaped rib of black rock named by a 1952 Swiss expedition. Fixed ropes assist climbers in scrambling over this snow covered rock band. The Yellow Band is a section of interlayered marble, phyllite, and semischist which also requires about 100 metres of rope for traversing it.

everest-crossing-the-yellow-bandclick to enlarge map

Route from camp 3 to the South Col. Across the Yellow Band and to the left up the Geneva Spur. This is the first time most climbers start to use bottled oxygen. The climbing and Yellow Band is not technically hard but climbers are approaching 8000m.

Yellow Band between C3 and South ColLet’s take a look at the climb above C3 and onto the South Col. As I have said before the terrain starts out fairly steep from C3. Most climbers are on supplemental oxygen and leave their tents after sunrise. It can be extremely cold before the sun moves over Lhotse and if the winds are the least bit strong, it is miserable. But as soon as the sun hits, and there are no clouds, then it can become horribly hot. Many climbers are in their full down suits trying to minimize the weight in their packs.

After about a couple of hours they approach the Yellow Band,a strip of limestone that cuts through the Himalayas in this area. They leave snow and climb on smooth rocks at a 30 to 45 degree angle. This is only for about 100 – 300 feet depending on the route that year but it takes concentration. A jam usually occurs in this area if several teams are going for the summit on the same day. Once clear of the Band, it flattens out until the bottom of the ridge South Coldefining the South Col. This is actually on the Geneva Spur. Climbers are a little weary at this point more from the altitude than anything else so when they see 150′ of 60 degree rock, ice and snow, it causes a long pause. But it is actually easier than it looks. From all the traffic, there are decent steps but also the uneven rock allows for good foot placement. In low snow years, this area may be snowfree and clibmers remove their crampons to make it easier.

Topping the ridge, climbers follow a rocky “path” worn by other climbers and soon step on the South Col proper – an area the size of a football field with ten or twenty or thirty tents huddled together on the west end. But most climber notice the tents second – after they see the actual summit pyramid of Mount Everest for the first time.

* Source : – http://www.alanarnette.com/

** Previous story :

Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 1. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 2. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.2. /Version english and polish/

Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 3. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.3. /Version english and polish/

Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 4. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.4. /Version english and polish/

*** see : Mt. Everets web album

Routes – part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.5.

Droga do obozu C4 czyli Żółta Wstęga i Żebro Genewczyków.

Mapka na początku pokazuje drogę do obozu C 4 (26,300’/8016m). Ostatni etap przemierzania masywu Lhotse everest-south-col-tents-newto słynne skaliste odcinki wspinaczki – urozmaicenie lodowcowego krajobrazu – tzw. Żółta Wstęga (Yellow Band) wymagające trawersowania oraz słynne Żebro Genewczyków. Nazwa tych ostatnich pochodzi z czasów szwajcarskiej wyprawy z 1952 roku, w której brał udział przyszły zdobywca Everestu Tenzing Norgey. To ostatni odcinek ciężkiej wspinaczki przed osiągnięciem Przełęczy Południowej.

Agnieszka Kiela-Pałys, która jako czwarta Polka stanęła na szczycie Świata zdobywając Everest 23 maja 2008 o 5:30, tak opisuję swoją wspinaczkę na tym etapie:

“22.05 poszłam tylko z Chhiringiem na Przełęcz. Wyszliśmy z trójki około siódmej i wkrótce dołączyliśmy do długaśnego wężyka wspinaczy podążających stromą Ścianą Lhotse w kierunku Żółtej Wstęgi.

Potem pozostało nam jeszcze do pokonania Żebro Genewczyków i wkrótce znaleźliśmy się na Przełęczy Południowej (7900 m.).”

* Źródła : – http://www.7summits.pl/http://www.alanarnette.com/

** Zobacz też :

Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 1. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 2. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.2. /Version english and polish/

Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 3. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.3. /Version english and polish/

Everest South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 4. Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu cz.4. /Version english and polish/

Routes – part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

Everest marzenie wielu… web album

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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