Arctic expeditions are shivering, Babanov announced a very cool new route attempt on Annapurna’s west face, and Simone Moro sounded off.
Yet last week was all about Tibet – with a full story of the 50 years-long battle published at ExplorersWeb by an explorer who was there.
MountEverest.net March 10 special: George Patterson’s inside story about Tibet It read like a spy/war novel; complete with secret top-rank political meetings, betrayal, murder and finally the eradication of an entire culture. Close to ninety years old now, George Patterson became involved with the Tibetan resistance to the invading Chinese Communist army in the winter of 1949. On the 50th anniversary of the Tibetan National Uprising Day, ExplorersWeb ran Patterson’s unique account, remarkably different from China’s official version.
Martin Minarik taking a stand for Tibet Martin Minarik commemorated Tibet’s National Uprising day by flying a Tibetan flag at his house in the Czech Republic. Martin will soon leave for Nepal’s Himalaya, aiming for Annapurna’s south face together with Dodo Kopold.
US’ President and EU’s Parliament take a stand for Tibet As planned by China the Tibetan National Uprising Day (Tuesday) went by quiet, at least for a while. By Thursday Tibetan groups had appealed to the High Commissioner for Human Rights in Geneva, calling for urgent intervention in Tibet by U.N. human rights bodies. US President Barack Obama raised the Tibet issue in a meeting with Chinese Foreign Minister Yang Jiechi in the White House. Lawmakers at EU’s Parliament urged China to renew dialogue on real autonomy for Tibet. China issued a number of denouncing press releases while a representative told Hillary Clinton that the US should “stop meddling in China’s internal affairs […].”
Jensen tackling Everest again, for Human Rights In cooperation with the UN, Danish Mogens Jensen from Discovery Channel’s “Everest beyond the limit” series will climb Everest south side this year and take with him UN’s declaration of human rights to the summit.
Babanov for Annapurna west face Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev plan to go to Annapurna without porters and climb a new route up the west face in alpine style.
Simone & Hervé awarded for Beka Brai Chhok ascent CAI (Italian Alpine Club) awarded Simone Moro and Hervè Barmasse for the first alpine style ascent of Pakistan’s Beka Brai Chhok. The prize, currently in its third edition, was established by the CAI as a tribute to Marco and Sergio Dalla Longa, perished in 2005 and 2007.
Simone Moro about Beka Brakai Chhok and more, “I gently ask for respect” Seems that nothing the Italian does will please parts of the climbing community. Last week Simone’s Beka Brakai Chhok expedition was questioned. “After 29 years of attempts, I honestly thought that now was the time to speak about my historic first winter Makalu summit with Denis Urubko and not to have the surprise to know that someone is accusing me of ‘lying’,” Moro sounded off, presenting Beka Brakai Chhok documentation and asking for some respect already. “After 40 expeditions all over the world in all seasons and in all styles, I think that it is quite clear who I am, how I climb and what I have climbed,” he wrote at ExWeb.
Recent Everest additions are Jason Maehl of Montana with SummitClimb, Scott Woolums’ Adventures International; Lance Fox of Wisconsin; a female Croatian team and German Thomas “Tomsky” Arnold with the Austrian Laserer-alpin team.
British website’s call for fellow Everest climbers British journalist Colin Wallace is calling for UK expeditions headed for Everest this spring, in order to follow their progress on his website “Mount Everest: The British Story.” Please contact Wallace over email, available on the http://www.everest1953.co.uk site.
Ang Tshering Sherpa writes from Nepal Dawa Steven Sherpa will be leading Eco Everest Expedition 2009. Apa Sherpa, 18 times (World Record) Everest Summiter, is returning as the climbing leader for his 19th summit bid on Mt. Everest. Pertemba Sherpa, who climbed Mt.Everest from three different routes, will be Base Camp manager. Asian Trekking and the Eco Everest Expedition 2009 will once again offer cash incentives to all climbers to bring down any garbage left by previous expeditions. The group is also training Sherpas in climbing, rescues, filming and photography.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner update: Gerlinde is going for Lhotse; no Everest double-header is in the works for her though; husband Ralf Dujmovits told ExWeb. “She [Gerlinde] is climbing Lhotse this spring season, after acclimatizing elsewhere, and that’s it.” Further climbing plans will be set only after Lhotse.
Edurne Pasaban update Al Filo announced last year they’ll be focusing on lower peaks but Gerlinde still managed to put together a strong team for her Kangchenjunga climb. She’s back together with Juanito Oiarzabal (22x8000ers summited), and the team also includes Ferran Latorre, Asier Izaguirre, Alex, Jorge, Lluis and Toñin Perezgrueso.
Italian Nives Meroi will attempt Kangchenjunga with husband Romano Benet, and fly in from Italy on March 15th.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Annapurna, Climbers, Edurne Pasaban, Everest, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Himalayas, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Nepal, Nives Meroi, Sherpa, Tibet, Travel, Valery Babanov, Week-In-Review |