Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up: Everest double traverse postponed; “Two Peters” for a new route on Manaslu.

(MountEverest.net) David Liaño’s plan to attempt a double Everest traverse is over due to climbing restrictions on the mountain’s Tibetan side.

On Manaslu, “two Peters” Hamor and Morawski hope to open a new route on the west face. Babanov has adjusted his climbing plans while in KTM prices are increasing, some climbers report, with cost of Visa tripling since 2007.

Liaño’s Double Everest traverse postponed to 2010

Climbing restrictions in Tibet forced Mexican David Liaño to postpone plans for a double S-N-S Everest traverse – again. lianoeverest-new

“To my surprise, the double-Everest traverse I planned for 2008 was thwarted by non-alpinistic factors: I was rejected access to the peak’s northern side,” he vented. “Instead, I climbed Everest & Lhotse, and postponed my project for 2009.”

“Now it’s unclear whether I may be granted a permit to enter Everest’s north side in Tibet,” he added. “Even if I got a permit, I would surely find no ropes and gear on that side on my way down from the summit, since most expeditions have switched to Nepal.”

David will start training again in October and try to launch the attempt in 2010. “I’ve been patient enough to wait for over two years, so I can wait one more,” he stated. Meanwhile, he’s considering alternative plans, such as climbing an 8000er in Pakistan in summer.

* more : – David Liaño’s blog

Manuel Pizarro: Kathmandu not so cheap anymore

Manuel Pizarro and André landed in Kathmandu last week. Since arrival, they’ve been busy organizing the expedition logistics and buying some necessary items, such as supplementary O2 bottles.

“Manuel noticed that all is more expensive than at the time of his first expedition in 2007,” his home team reported. “The government has increased prices and taxes on most of the products and services. For example, the cost of the visa to enter the country was $30.00 US in 2007 for 90 days. Now, it is $100.00 US for 90 days.”

Annapurna: Babanov heading straight for the West face

“We’ve just made a change in our expedition plans, 2 Valery Babanov told ExplorersWeb yesterday. “We are not going to acclimatize on Annapurna South side, but going instead directly to the West face. We’ll set up BC and acclimatize there, hoping to save time and money.”

* more : – Valeri Babanov

Piotr Morawski & Peter Hamor: Manaslu & Dhaula route details

logo-dhaul_manaslu

Polish climber Piotr Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor aim for a new route on Manaslu’s west face.2_peters-new Then the climbers will move to Dhaulagiri, hoping to reach the summit via the Japanese route.

Goal:

A new route on Manaslu [8156] up its west wall. For acclimation we chose Dhaulagiri [8167] by normal route or north-west wall [by japanese route].

Accomplishment time:

18.03.2009 – 25.05.2009

* see : – Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 1. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz. 1. /Version english and polish/

The expedition is a continuation of Himalayan Triptychs which took places in 2006 and 2008. It is also the logical continuation of the way in Himalaya Mountains which Morawski – Hamor team have been trying to accomplish: reaching the tops of  eightthousanders  by rarely taken ways or searching for own routes.

Manaslu Andalusian female team: Loading up cargo

Ingrid Medialdea was forced to drop out after breaking her ankle during training. andaluzas-manaslu-newThe other girls are busy loading 500kg of expedition gear, to be sent to Nepal this week, in addition to items stocked in Kathmandu from a previous expedition on Baruntse last fall.

* more : – Andalusian female team – news

One more Spaniard for Manaslu: Carlos Pauner for his 9th 8000er

Spanish climber Carlos Pauner is attempting Manaslu this spring. Carlos, with 8, 8000ers summited, is teaming up with Javier Pérez.

* more : – Carlos Pauner

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
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** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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