Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /10/ – Week in Review.

The adventure spring season is full throttle around the world. Last week was packed at ExWeb with interviews, announcements of amazing new routes in Himalaya, along with the usual politics on Everest north side. yak_lance4-new

Enroute to the North Pole; the two polar expeditions have been going well; except for a team of “researchers,” reportedly starving a mere two weeks after hitting the ice. Here goes a quick glimpse of the main news:

Liaño’s Double Everest traverse postponed to 2010 Climbing restrictions in Tibet forced Mexican David Liaño to postpone plans for a double S-N-S Everest traverse, “It’s unclear whether I may be granted a permit to enter Everest’s north side in Tibet,” he said. “Even if I got a permit, I would surely find no ropes and gear on that side on my way down from the summit, since most expeditions have switched to Nepal.”

* more : – David Liaño’s blog

Andrew Lock: Nepal/Tibet border closed ”My plan to climb Mt Shishapangma is still a little uncertain as the border into Tibet is currently closed and there is no clear guidance as to when it may reopen,” Andrew reported from KTM.

Manuel Pizarro: politics in China and increased costs in Nepal “The cost of the visa to enter the country was $30.00 US in 2007 for 90 days; now, it is $100.00 US for 90 days,” reported Pizarro from Nepal. Unable to climb from Tibet as planned; Manuel and his team mate had to request their supplies back from Tibet in order to climb Everest from the south side.

Annapurna: Babanov heading straight for the West face Valery Babanov has changed his climbing plans somewhat; “We are not going to acclimatize on Annapurna South side, but going instead directly to the West face. We’ll set up BC and acclimatize there, hoping to save time and money,” he told ExWeb.

* more : – Valeri Babanov

Czechs for Everest’s Hornbein Couloir and Annapurna double-header K2 summiteer Libor Uher is leading a team of fellow Czech climbers on Everest’s Hornbein Couloir and Annapurna’s East ridge. The team, also comprising Petr Masek, Radim Sliva, Petr Valchar and Ján Behun will set out Monday. Libor Uher was the second Czeck climber to summit K2, a goal he achieved back in 2007 as member in Leopold Sulovsky’s team.

Piotr Morawski & Peter Hamor: Manaslu & Dhaula route details Polish climber Piotr Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor aim for a new route on Manaslu’s west face. logo-dhaul_manasluThen the climbers will move to Dhaulagiri, hoping to reach the summit via the Japanese route.

* see  : –  Dhaulagiri/Manaslu Expedition 2009 part 1. Wyprawa Hamor & Morawski – Dhaulagiri/Manaslu 2009 cz.1. /Version english and polish/

One more Spaniard for Manaslu: Carlos Pauner for his 9th 8000er Spanish climber Carlos Pauner is attempting Manaslu this spring. Carlos, with 8, 8000ers summited, is teaming up with Javier Pérez.

* more : – Carlos Pauner

Nick Rice heading for Manaslu Nick Rice is departing US for Manaslu next week. He will climb via the Japanese route without Sherpa or O2 support.

Karakoram summer: FTA for K2 Aussie based Field Touring Alpine will be heading back to K2 in 2009 with a 15 person attempt on the SSE spur (Cesen route). The outfitter lost two clients in Himalaya last fall (on Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam). Although commercial, the K2 climb won’t be fully guided. FTA has climbing permits for Broad Peak and GII as well.

Extreme skier Fredrik Ericsson for K2 in sky-descent trilogy Fredrik, this time with Italian companion Michele Fait, plan to climb and ski K2 this summer. So far no one has made a complete ski descent from the summit. Acclimatization will include an attempt for the first complete ski descent of Laila Peak (6069m). The final K2 attempt will kick-off mid-July.

Adventure Film Festival in Poland: Films wanted Organizers of the XIV Andrzej Zawada Mountain Film Review (festival), taking place on September 18-20th, call for adventure film-makers to send over their productions.

Send your films in DVD standard format (two copies) together with an application form. More info is available at the Festival website.

ExWeb interview with Lance Fox, “I was captured by Everest at a Ronald McDonald home” Attention Everest climbers and trekkers: if you encounter yaks enroute to BC marked with an X on their forehead you’ll know Lance Fox was there. Hooked on the Matrix Trilogy movies (“not sure why, perhaps it is because of the extreme impossibilities that seem so possible?”) and bacon cheeseburger Pizza from Jolly Rogers (not expedition sponsor); the American veterinarian is headed to climb Everest with Himex on March 25 and ExWeb caught up with him for an interview.

Arctic wrap-up: Italian Michele Pontrandolfo is acclimatizing in Resolute Bay, ready to depart to on his solo, unsupported expedition to the 1996 position of the Magnetic North Pole. Better terrain for Tyler and John helped them to gain more miles per day towards the Geographic North Pole. Lonnie’s team reported some appalling pressure ridges enroute to the same goal. John and Tyler reported traveling 6 nautical miles in one day while Lonnie’s team broke the 7 nm barrier. After two weeks on the ice; Pen Hadow, Ann Daniels and Martin Hartley were featured in mainstream media as “global warming researchers” suffering frostbite and starving due to a delay of their resupply.

Cutting edge tech? ExWeb’s popular rerun on Pen Hadow’s North Pole outfit “Explorers are relying on cutting edge technology to map the retreating Arctic ice sheet during a treacherous 1,000km trek to the North Pole,” wrote silicon.com about Pen Hadow’s mega outfit on the Arctic ice. Connecting several Iridiums has been done many times before. Sending video from the Arctic and the North Pole has also been done over Iridium. ExWeb did a rerun on the story, covered last year.

ExWeb interview with Jesper Melin Ganc-Petersen: “We want to see what Peary saw” End of last week two Danish men, Jesper Melin Ganc-Petersen and Erik Jørgensen, embarked on a new route Greenland expedition. Relying on mother’s home-cooked expedition food in the start; the aim is to cross the Icecap from Kangerlussuaq (Sønderstrøm Fjord) to the fjord areas at Independence Fjord in the Northeast and then to film areas that Peary explored on Greenland. The two men plan to cover approximately 3500 km with kites but no resupplies, and to stay 3 to 4 months on Greenland. They started much earlier than the usual ski season and expect to kite in temperatures of –40 to –50°C on the Inland Ice.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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