They won an ExWeb award for their great 2006 Himalayan Trilogy; last week “The Peters'” Himalayan saga was tragically ended when Piotr Morawski perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri.
In other news: the first climbing permits have reportedly been granted for Everest north side, Annapurna normal route sports a dangerous serac; and a big avalanche buried Manaslu BC.
The repositioning of Inmarsat satellites has caused a lower BGAN aiming angle in Himalaya; a diving scientist reported a record underwater ice-ridge in the Arctic Ocean, and pirates in the Gulf of Aden are facing tougher times ahead.
Polish Piotr Morawski perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri April 8 at 8.40 am local time, while returning from C2. At only 33, Piotr had summited six 8000ers, and made the first winter summit on Shisha Pangma (together with Simone Moro in January, 2005).
Part of Piotr Pustelnik’s Himalayan Trilogy team and teaming up with regular mate Peter Hamor; Piotr Morawski was climbing Dhaulagiri as a preparatory ascent before attempting to open a new route on Manaslu’s west face.
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Everest North side climbing permit granted SummitClimb got news from Lhasa last week that their Everest permit has been approved, Arnold Coster reported.
Serbian Jacimovic back to Everest – North side Serbian Dragan Jacimovic is also launching a commercial expedition on Everest north side this spring. The team this year comprises 18 climbers from ex Yugoslavian republics of Bosnia, Montenegro, Croatia, Slovenia, Serbia and from Italy. Should they succeed, the Montenegro flag (the youngest state in the former Yugoslavia) will flap on top of the world.
Everest’s First Ascent team: RMI Guides, Hahn and Viesturs Rainier Mountain Guides have launched an American all-star expedition aiming for Everest south side: The “First Ascent team” led by Peter Whittaker also features Ed Viesturs (14x8000ers w/o 02), Everest multi-summiteer Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot and Seth Waterfall. Accompanying the climbers is a filming crew headed by Gerry Moffatt, with Jake Norton as photographer.
More Americans on Everest Johnny Strange, 17, hopes to become the youngest American to climb Mount Everest (joining Scott Woolums’ expedition), and the youngest 7Summiteer worldwide. American John Golden is climbing Everest from its south side, together with Jon Shea and Phinjo Sherpa. Golden has a transplanted knee, as a result of a football accident back in 2005.
Everest comms and security numbers In order to provide better communications on Everest as well as with lower Khumbu and Kathmandu, the Eco Everest Expedition 2009 will have one base station at Camp 2, one at Base Camp and one in Asian Trekking’s office in Khumjung, Ang Tsering reported. “There will be telephone and internet connectivity. Our frequency this year is: 00 870772223518 OR 00870772223596. I would recommend that all climbers please make a note of this: In case of emergencies on the mountain, we can transfer messages down to Kathmandu rapidly should this be required.” Eco Everest team is led by Apa Sherpa (18 times Everest summiteer).
Two lanes in Khumbu Icefall As last year, there will be two ropes-lines in the Khumbu Icefall; word is that a third line might be established this year as well.
Mondinelli returns – for another Lhotse summit ”I’m leaving again for the Himalayas. I’ll go back to the South Col to check the weather station we installed last year and, if I am still on time, I will try to reach Lhotse’s summit,” reported 14, 8000ers (w/o 02) summiteer Italian Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli.
Annapurna: Valery and Victor have climbed to 5,600 m; so have Nives and Romano; Revol & co reached 6,100m; Libor set C1 at 5,020m, and a Korean team was somewhere in between last week before a bad weather spell forced most mountaineers back to BC on Annapurna. Babanov reported dangerous conditions right above C2 on the normal route, due to a large overhanging serac. His and Victor’s second acclimatization trip will therefore go up the Czech route.
From Greenland to Cho Oyu – authorities permitting Nick Nielsen, a climber from Greenland, arrived Kathmandu last week hoping to get a climbing permit for Cho Oyu.
Korean Oh Eun-sun aiming for 4x8000ers in one year Currently on her way to Kangchenjunga, Korean lady climber Oh Eun-sun hopes to climb all 14x8000ers in a record time. Oh claims nine 8000+ meter summits (Editors Note: the number varies pending source) and she hopes to bag four more this year, according to Korean Chosun paper.
Manaslu 2008 summit cleared by Miss Hawley On Manaslu last fall, several large commercial teams’ summit reports didn’t add up to other climbers’ climbing notes cutting numbers of success down to barely half. Serbian Jacimovic’s team summit (currently enroute to Everest north side) had apparently not been confirmed by Miss Hawley. “Miss Hawley said the Lukla air accident last year had created some confusion, and thus Manaslu summit list was left incomplete,” team member Nina Adjanin, and also a 2008 Manaslu summiteer, stated on the expedition website. “After checking the facts, Jacimovic’s team has their Manaslu summit finally confirmed by Miss Hawley.”
Manaslu: ExWeb interview with Carlos Pauner, “you either win or lose; there are no ties here” He has 8x8000ers summited plus an even larger number of attempts. In 2003, Pauner miraculously survived after being lost for two days lost on Kangchenjunga’s upper slopes. A few years later he barely escaped a chopper-crash on Makalu; and last spring he had another close call – on Lhotse. Yet Carlos Pauner won’t give up in his goal to climb all 14x8000ers. Last week, he set BC on yet another snow-packed 8000er – Manaslu – and answered ExWeb’s Angela Benavides’ call for an interview.
A huge avalanche hit Manaslu’s BC shortly after the interview; burying Carlos Pauner’s, Joao García’s, South Korean and French expeditions’ tents. No injuries are reported.
Makalu West Pillar Alberto Inurrategi & co report heavy rains on their third day trek to Makalu BC; raising questions how the porters will manage to cross the Shipton La pass if it turns out packed with snow.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review Tagged: | Annapurna, Climbers, Dhaulagiri, Everest, Everest traverse, Himalayas, Makalu, Makalu West Pillar, Manaslu, Nepal, Peter Hamor, Piotr Morawski, Polish climber, Sherpa, Tibet, Travel, Valery Babanov, Week-In-Review