Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009

Nanda Devi East: Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascen.

(MountEverest.net) Polish Marcin Miotk and Grzegorz Mroz are leading a team currently on their way to Nanda Devi East, in an anniversary climb 70 years after a fellow Polish expedition achieved the peak’s first ascent.

“That climb was reckoned to be the hardest route done in the Himalayas before WW II, and marked the birth of Polish Himalayan climbing, which later was continued by Rutkiewicz and Kukuczka,” the team reported. Besides Miotk and Mroz, the team includes seven other climbers and a camera man.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ. nanda-devi-logo

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

nanda-devi-east-expedition-2009-_routeThe two peak massif of Nanda Devi is the highest mountain in the Garhwal Himalayas and the second highest (after Kanchenjunga) in the whole of India.

The mountain’s two peaks are independent summits, connected by a sharp 3 km ridge. The main peak (7816 m) rises from a massive mountain basin surrounded on all sides by steep, several thousand meter high walls.

The notoriously inaccessible basin has been named the ‘Nanda Devi Sanctuary’. The Rishi Ganga river originates here and then flows down from Nanda Devi to create a deep valley.

Nanda Devi East (7434 m) is an autonomous summit which closes the Sanctuary from the east. It is joined to the main summit by a sharp, 3 km ridge almost entirely at a height of over 7000 m.

For the Hindi people, Nanda Devi is a sacred mountain, the name of which can be translated as follows: Nanda is one of the nicknames of the Goddess of Death, the wife of Shiva, while Devi means ‘Goddess’.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009
Commemorating the 70th anniversary of Polish Himalayan mountaineering

Nanda Devi is a peak with a height of 7434 m above sea level, situated in the north of India. It was first nanda-devi-wspin39conquered in 1939 by Jakub Bujak and Janusz Klarner who were members of the first ever Polish expedition into the Himalayas.
The mountain is considered to be the most difficult Himalayan summit conquered before World War II. The first man to reach the summit of Mount Everest, Sherp Tenzig Norgay himself once admitted that it was in fact Nanda Devi that he believed was the most challenging mountain he had ever climbed.
To commemorate the 70th anniversary of the first Polish expedition a jubilee party will set off into the Himalayas in the spring of 2009, led by Jakub Bujak’s grandson, Jan Lenczowski.
So far, no other Pole has managed to achieve what Bujak and Klarner did and reach the summit of Nanda Devi East. What is more, no one else has set foot on the mountain’s summit for the last couple of years.
The story of the first conquest of Nanda Devi is linked to some interesting parts of Polish history and the history of World War II.
Stefan Bernadzikiewicz and Adam Karpiński (members of the first Polish expedition) were killed by an avalanche and became the first victims of what has since become known as the ‘Nanda curse’. Jakub Bujak and Janusz Klarner went missing several years later and their deaths are still shrouded in mystery.
In 2008, a Polish journalist Anna Pietraszek unearthed the film recording made during the first expedition. The discovery of the tape in the British Film Institute in London received a great deal of media attention in Poland (including being mentioned on the evening news programme Wiadomości).
The aim of the expedition is to commemorate the Polish success in the Himalayas and repeat the 1939 route. The core of the expedition team will consist of young Himalayan mountaineers, experienced in climbing high mountains. The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East góra o wysokości 7434 m n.p.m. po raz pierwszy została zdobyta w 1939 przez polskich himalaistów Jakuba Bujaka i Janusza Klarnera, uczestników pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje. W momencie jego zdobycia był to wówczas szósty szczyt w hierarchii dotychczas zdobytych. Pozostała dwójka uczestników wyprawy Stefan Bernadzikiewicz i Adam Karpiński postanowiła zmierzyć się z inną dziewiczą górą – Tirsuli (7074 m n.p.m.). Celu nie udało im się jednak osiągnąć – zginęli w lawinie, stając się pierwszymi ofiarami fatum nazwanego później „klątwą Nandy”. Jakub Bujak i Janusz Klarner zginęli kilka lat później w niewyjaśnionych okolicznościach.

nanda-devi-east-expedition-2009-_routeDroga polska.

Wyprawa była zapomniana aż, do momentu sensacyjnego odkrycia przez dziennikarkę TVP – Annę Pietraszek. Po 17 latach poszukiwań odnalazła film z pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Brytyjskim Instytucie Filmowym. Odkrycie zostało zauważone przez media, a zainteresowanie było ogromne. Materiał w głównym wydaniu Wiadomości, artykuły w prasie, ogólne poruszenie w Internecie. Legenda odżyła na nowo.
Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon wyprawy stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Akcja prowadzona będzie w terminie 21 kwietnia – 7 czerwca 2009 roku. W wyprawie weźmie udział 10 osób. Pomysłodawcą i kierownikiem wyprawy jest Jan Lenczowski, wnuk Jakuba Bujaka – pierwszego zdobywcy Nanda Devi East.

** Zródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

goryonline.com

gieldaturystyki.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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  1. […] – Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent. […]

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