Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up /20/ – Week in Review.

The last wave of climbers topped-out Everest last Saturday – as the weather window closed and conditions rapidly turned for the worse. Descending climbers performed several rescues on both sides of the mountain in a sudden storm.

Three climbers were lost – among them 3-time ExWeb award winner Sergei Samoilov; Denis Urubko’s free-spirited and courageous climbing partner.

The south side is now deserted while on the north side only a few climbers are still attempting ascents. Meanwhile, Pakistan is kicking off – with security updates posted at ExWeb.

Lhotse-Everest traverse: Max, Vaso and Sergei left BC on Sunday May 23rd and reported fair weather in C4 a few days later. Wednesday shocking news however arrived that Sergei Samoilov had perished. Sergei, 52, was Denis Urubko’s frequent climbing partner. A 2005 climb on Broad Peak’s unclimbed SW face gained the two an ExplorersWeb award, and a nomination for the international Piolet d’Or. In 2006 Denis and Sergei completed a new route on the NE side of Manaslu and in 2007, Denis and Sergei summited K2 in its latest summit ever and the first K2 north side summit in 11 years. The two mountaineers are the only to have gained no less than three Best-of-ExWeb awards (2005-2007). The remaining climbers of the Kazakh 2009 Lhotse-Everest traverse descended to BC by Friday and left for Lukla.

Everest casualties German (Calgary resident) Frank Ziebarth, 29, reportedly perished after summiting Everest w/o O2 via the South side on May 21st. Czech Veslav Chrzaszcz reportedly passed during the night at the North Col on May 18th, probably due to a heart attack.

Everest north side: Jarle Traa seriously ill in ABC Following a summit without O2 Norwegian climber Jarle Traa descended to ABC in critical condition with frostbite and hypothermia. Negotiations with Chinese authorities to allow an emergency airlift failed and Traa was eventually evacuated by car and transported to hospital in Kathmandu.

South side rescues 2008 K2 American/International expedition leader Mike Farris was reportedly climbing Everest south side without oxygen as an independent climber. Fellow mountaineers said he asked for help at the balcony and several large commercial teams reportedly assisted the climber down to C4.

First Ascent: Ed’s O2 “It was my goal and my desire to attempt my 7th Everest summit without supplementary O2,” Ed Viesturs reported. “To climb without O2 though, conditions have to be perfect. However, we had to spend an extra day at the South Col. At leaving for the summit on the following night it was very cold, windy and crowds were expected on the route. That’s why, for the sake of safety and group dynamics, that after long deliveries I opted to use O2 on my ascent.”

Everest records Bill Burke of Cost Mesa, Calif., became the oldest American Everest summiteer at 67. Eddy Dawes, 66, of Spokane, topped-out two days before. Kay LeClaire, 60, of Spokane, became the oldest U.S. woman to climb the peak. Lori Schneider 52, of Wisconsin, summited Everest with multiple sclerosis.

Nepali K2 heroes bag a double together Pasang Lama and Chhiring Dorje Sherpa summitted Makalu and Lhotse together on May 2nd and 22nd without the use of supplemental oxygen. Pasang, cousin of the Bhote brothers, and Chhiring Dorje Sherpa climbed K2 together last year as Sherpas for the Korean and American/International expeditions.

Cho Oyu: SummitClimb reportedly topped out Cho Oyu last Sunday. “It’s very windy up here and we can see Everest, so that’s how we know we’re on the summit. We can look out and see the Tibetan plateau,” Dan reported.

Shisha Pangma: The Romanian expedition to Shisha’ SW Face is re-scheduled for 17 September, according to the team’s website.

Kangchenjunga Basque war wounds Jorge Egocheaga, suffering from acute bronchitis during the summit push, broke three ribs. Koke Lasa and summiteer Alberto Zerain are also reportedly frostbitten.

Lhotse: Summit reports In her debrief, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner reported how she waited to take the last steps with Ralf. “It was exhausting and wonderful at the same time – I was there to escort my husband the moment he achieved his 14th 8000+ meters summit.” Silvio Mondinelli commented, “she is humble and not competitive at all. In fact, Gerl was really concerned at knowing Edurne had problems on descent from Kangchenjunga’s summit.”

Nanda Devi East – it’s over “The summit attempt failed due to bad weather conditions and Jarek’s health problems,” the Polish home team reported. “All expedition’s members are currently back in Base Camp.” Running out of time in rough weather, the expedition is now over.

Pakistan: First climbers in Broad Peak BC – security update Antoine Girard, Ludo Gianbiasi and Annapurna survivor Eli Revol have arrived Broad Peak and started their ascent. The French team drove non-stop past Chilas “since Taliban terrorists are reported to descend from Swat valley in the dark and loot convoys staying for the night in villages by the KKH,” but reported no incidents. Rumors about the kidnapping of a foreign expedition leader were debunked by ExWeb correspondent in Islamabad Karrar Haidri. “A French citizen has been kidnapped in Quetta as he arrived there from Iran, but that person is not related to climbing expeditions.”

New teams for K2 Pakistan and China will unite on K2. Twice Everest summiteer Yang Chunfeng (40) is teaming up with two yet undisclosed Pakistani climbers. “The expedition has been given the name ‘K2 Bearing witness to the friendship between Pakistan and China’,” APP news agency reported. Yang won’t be the only Chinese climber on K2 this summer: Shi Hai Feng, outfitted by Saltoro Summits, will attempt the peak together with a climbing mate. Thomas Andersen, Mads Kristensen and Jakob Mikkelsen also announced plans for K2.

Multi-Gasherbrum international expedition An international team is climbing all the Gasherbrums this season, with each member aiming for a certain number of peaks. Bruce Normand will go for the 4 higher G’s (GI, GII, GII and GIV); Dirk Grunert will attempt both GI and GII; Polish Jacek Teler hopes to climb GII and possibly K2; Kinga Baranowska is heading for the two 8000+ meters Gasherbrums, while Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo will return for GII via the French spur.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

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* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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