Summer 2009 Karakoram expeditions.

Updated: May 08, 2009
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changesDid we forget you or your friends?
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K2 double headers
Gerfried Göschl for new routes on Nanga and K2

Austrian Gerfried Göschl will lead a strong group for Nanga Parbat and K2. Gerfried hopes to climb a new route on Nanga’s North-West face together with friends Günther Unterberger, Hans Goger and Louis Rousseau.Also K2 will hopefully get a new line; Gerfried, Louis Rousseau and Jorge Egocheaga will give it a shot if conditions allow. Other members in Gerfried’s team are Dr. Günther Straub (co-leader), Kilian Volken from Switzerland, Giuseppe Pompilli, etc. Scottish Himalaya veterans Sandy Allan and Rick Allen will share climbing permit with Gerfried’s expedition.
Gerfried Göschl’s website:
Gerfried’s blog:
Louis Rousseau’s website:
Hans Goger’s website:
MD Günther Straub’s website:
Swiss Broad Peak & K2 expedition
Frederic Roux will lead a six-member team on a BP+K2 double header.

K2 (8611)

Fredrik Ericsson’s K2 ski-descent

Swedish extreme skier Fredrik Ericsson hopes to achieve the first complete ski descent from K2’s summit. The expedition will kick off in June, 2009. Fredrik and Italian Michele Fait will acclimatize in a ski-descent of Laila Peak (6069m) and climb K2 SSE ridge mid-July, with no supplementary 02 and their ski-touring boots on.The current K2 ski expedition is the first stage in Fredrik’s project to become the first person to ski the world’s three highest mountains: Mount Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga. Fredrik Ericsson has completed ski descents on Peak Somoni, Shisha Pangma, Gasherbrum 2 and Dhaulagiri.
Fredrik Ericsson’s website:
Kazakhstan K2 expedition
Maxut Zhumayev and four other members in the Kazakh National Team will give K2 another try.
Maxut’s website:
Field Touring Alpine K2 expedition
Australian outfitter Field Touring Alpine will be heading back to K2 in 2009 with a 15 person attempt on the SSE spur, or Cesen route. FTA has a double permit that includes Broad Peak, where several of the K2 climbers will go first to aid acclimatization.This will be the third serious commercial attempt on the hill after FTA’s previous effort in 2006, and Amical Alpin’s successful ascent of the mountain via the Abruzzi Ridge in 2004. The expedition is not fully guided though: “We have professional leaders running the K2 trip, but it’s not a situation where the guide will lead anybody to the summit,” FTA’s Dave Hancock stated. “What we have is a group of likeminded climbers pooling their efforts to surmount a significant Himalayan objective – the entire team will be working to get the strongest members to the top.” All team members are experienced 8000ers climbers, with Fabrizio Zangrilli one of the leaders.
Field Touring Alpine’s website:
Fabrizio Zangrilli’s blog:
North Japan K2 Expedition
Hosaka Akinori will lead 10 men.
Nicholas Rice’s K2 Memorial Expedition
American Nick Rice has tentative plans to return to K2 for a second attempt. He’ll climb via the SSE Spur (or Spanish) route on the mountain.
Nick Rice’s website:
K-2 Xin Jian China Expedition
Chinese climber Shi Hai Feng will attempt K2 together with a climbing mate.

Broad Peak (8047)

Croatian Broad Peak Expedition
Lober Dakovic will lead a seven member team from Croacia.
Field Touring Alpine
Field Touring is also launching a Broad Peak 12 member team led by Canadian Chris Szymiec. Arrival in Pakistan is scheduled for June 8th.
Field Touring Alpine’s website:
Spanish Broad Peak Expedition
Jordi Bosch will lead a five member team.
Saltoro Summits International Broad Peak Expedition
Saltoro Summits outfit has an international 8-member team with Swiss Eelco Jansen leading.
Saltoro Summits’ website:
Eelco’s website:
Eelco’s expedition blog:
French/South African Broad Peak Expedition
Climber and Paraglider Antoine Girard is leading another team on Broad Peak.
Antoine’s website:
DAV Summit Club Broad Peak Expedition
Stephan Schanderl is leading a large team launched by the DAV’s (German Alpine Club) Summit club.
DAV’s Summit Club website:
Polish Silver Broad Peak Expedition
Ryszard Pawlowski is leading five fellow Poles.
Amical Alpin
The German outfitter is launching teams on Broad Peak and GII. Amical’s Broad Peak expedition will be led by Dirk Groeger.
Amical’s website:

Nanga Parbat (8125)

Portuguese Joao Garcia for his 13th 8000er
After summiting Manaslu, Joao Garcia hopes to turn Nanga Parbat into his 13th 8000er. Joao’s website:
Korea Kolon Sport Nanga Parbat + GII Expedition
Recent Makalu summiteer Kim Jae Soo will be in place leading a 7-member Korean team. Kim has also a permit to climb GII.
Gasherbrum multiple climbs

International GIV East Face and GIII Expedition
Led by Bruce Normand and David Falt, the team includes members from UK, Sweden, Canada, New Zealand and Kazakhstan. The expedition will kick off on May 20th.
GI and GII are also included in Normand’s climbing permit.
German GI, GII and GVI expedition
Dirk Grunert will attempt both Gasherbrums plus GVI, together with three other climbing partners.
GI (8068) & GII (8035) doubles

Altitude Junkies/Project Himalaya
Altitude Junkies’ Phil Crampton is leading an international team on both Gasherbrums, launched jointly by his outfitter and Jamie McGuinness’ Project-Himalaya.
Altitude Junkies’ website:
Project-Himalaya’ website:
Camilo Lpez & Anna Pfaff
Colombian Camilo Lopez and Anna Pfaff will attempt GI and GII.
Camilo & Anna’s blog:
Veteran Carlos Soria
Fresh from achieving a first climb on Dome Kang (a 6000+meter summit in Kangchenjunga region) in spring, at 70 years old Spaniard Carlos Soria is ready to attempt both Gasherbrums. The climbing permit has been issued for an eight member team.
Spanish Expedition GI & GII
A second Spanish expedition, led by Luis Barbero, is also scheduled to attempt both Gasherbrums.
Lemal’s clean-up expedition
French Arian Lemal, known as the “sweeper of the summits” after clean-up projects on Aconcagua, French and NZ Alps and Kanchenjunga BC, will head for GII and GI to clean up rubbish and interview climbers in regards to their perception of waste.
Lemal’s website:
GI (8068)

Czech GI Expedition
Marek Holecek will lead a 10 member Czech team on Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I).
GII (8035)

Valery Babanov
Russian Valery Babanov is going for Gasherbrum II.
Babanov’s website:
Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo
Portuguese Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo are back for a second attempt on GII’s French Spur. The climbers will first acclimatize on GII’s normal route.
Daniela’s blog:
Swiss Kobler & Partner GII expedition – featuring Ueli Steck
Kari Kobler is returning to GII. Expedition leader on the climbing permit is Ueli Steck.
Kobler’s company website:
Ueli Steck’s website:
Korea Kolon Sport GII Expedition
Kim Jae Soo will lead a seven member Korean team. The expedition also has a climbing permit for Nanga Parbat.
Spanish GII expedition
Javier Gorospe is leading a five member Spanish team.
Amical Alpin
Amical Alpin is launching a team led by Herbert Wolf.
Amical’s website:
Jagged Globe
Jagged Globe UK expedition leaders are David Hamilton and Adele Pennington.
Jagged Globe’s website:

Spires & Lower peaks

Kunyan Chich (7852)

Japan Kunyan Chich Expedition
Takeshi Yamakawa (leader), teaming up with two fellow Japanese climbers, will attempt Kunyan Chich.

Masherbrum (7821)

Steve House & Co for “K1” Masherbrum
American Steve House is attempting Masherbrum (also called K1) with two climbing mates.
Rakaposhi (7788)

Karakorum Addicts Action
Slovenian Irena Mrak and her climbing partner will give Rakaposhi a try.Irena’s website:
Pumari Chhish East (7400)

Pumari Chhish East Expedition
Raphael Slawinski will lead a five member team from USA/Canada on Pumari Chhish, in the Mustagh-Hispar range.

Latok-I (7215)

Freak Power Latok-1 Expedition
Also American Colin Haley & Josh Wharton are aiming for Latok I this summer, with two other climbers.
Dream Latok-1 Expedition

Kim Se Joon will lead a six member team from South Korea.

Spantik (7027)

French Spantik Expedition 2008
Alexis Montader will lead two fellow French climbers on Spantik.
Austrian Tulfes Spantik Expedition
Gerhard Wegmairand wiill lead three fellow Austrian.
Japan’s Fukuoka Climbing Club
Yonezawa Hiroo is leading a six member Japanese team.
Korea Extreme Team
Kim Hyung IL will lead 5 fellow Koreans.
Japan Golden Peak Expedition
Japanese Fumitaka Ichimura with one partner will also attempt the Golden Peak (Spantik).

K-7 (6934)

Swiss K-7 Expedition
Mirco Stalder is leading a six member team from Switzerland on K7, Charakusa valley.
NZ/Australian Nafees Cap Expedition
A New Zealand/Australian will climb Nafees Cap, a 1,300 meters-long spirerising off K7, Charakusa Valley. The route is expected to involve approximately 40 pitches of free climbing up to grade 28/5.12+. Team members Bruce Dowrick, Jon Sedon, Scott Standen and Adrian Laing plan to spend up to 16 days on the wall.

Kuk Sar II (6925)

American Kuk Sar-II Expedition
Douglas Chabot got a Mugs Stump Award for an attempt together with Bruce Miller on the unclimbed Kuk Sar II. Before the climb, Doug will spend time with Greg Mortenson’s CAI humanitarian project in the nearby Chapruson Valley.

Tahu Rutum (6651)

Korea Cheong Jook Alpine Club Expedition

Shim, Gwon Sik is leading a seven member Korean team on Tahu Rutum peak.

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One Response

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