Skies are finally clearing on Broad Peak and K2; snow conditions are still far from stable though. Whiteout and snow halted Veikka and Yazuka on their way to Hidden Peak’s C2.
While the rest of the expedition are headed up the normal route, the time has come for Gerfried and his mates to try the new line they have planned so long.
“Preparation is long, hard work for a difficult climb like this,” Ger told ExWeb in an earlier interview (check the features section).
“I researched it for nearly three months, and compared around 2000 pictures to find the possibility of this new line. We did our best in the last year and a half to try and optimize all items which are planable. We don’t want to leave anything to chance.”
Gerfried Göschl, Günther Unterberger, Hans Goger and Canadian Louis Rousseau will set off for their first bivouac today. Sepp joined the attempt in he last minute.
“We will pitch our tents right under the steep 800m ice crevice,” Gerfried reported. “On Wednesday, we will ascend the – never before attempted – crevice first thing in the morning, until we reach our second bivouac (6600m) via wide snowy slopes and rocky towers.”
“On Thursday, we will hopefully reach approx. 7400m (in foreseeable strong winds). Should everything go according to plans, we may have a summit chance on Friday!”
ÖAV Nanga Parbat Expedition’s forecasts, by Carl Gabl and Hanif Muhammad, show a few days of clear, yet windy weather – the best day being Friday. Giusepe Pompili, who previusly stated he would go just for a partial, acclimatization trip, may change his mind and continue towards the top with the rest of the pack.
“We’re in C1,” Giusepe reported yesterday evening. “Tomorrow we’re heading for C2 – and then we’ll see: Forecasts show beautiful conditions on summit day…Tomorrow there will be at least a dozen of us, plus the Koreans and HAP’s,” Pompili added.
Most of Fabrizio’s FTA K2 team headed to C1 yesterday, on a relative safe route from the constant snow-shedding. “Due to the heavy snow on the route they were not able to push to C2 and Jake, Ron and Fabrizio returned to BC as there is limited space in C1,” home team’s Stu reported. “Tuesday very early in the morning they will leave fully loaded, meet up with the team members in C1, and push the route through to C2.”
“The teams are taking advantage of a weather window that seems to be 2-3 long ahead before high winds may return later in the week,” Stu added.
“While the rest of the team push up to Camp 2, I’m in Base Camp preparing to push up tomorrow (today),” Sean Wisedale reported. “Yesterday was one of the most outstanding alpine days of my life. It was sloughing and shedding time! Off all the surrounding slopes, avalanches dropped like over ripe litches in December.”
“We’ve got no time to loose – weather is apparently improving for five days, so we are heading all the way to C2 in order to spend two nights there, and then move to C3, at 7,300m,” Santiago Quintero stated. “Thus we would close our (rather short) acclimatization process.”
“Chris and his crew on Broad Peak are heading back up today in the morning as it looks like his hill needed one more day to consolidate,” FTA’s home team reported. “With lower angle slopes than K2, Broad Peak can hold considerably more snow and avalanche risk just below C1 is quite significant so they will get a very early start.”
Heavy snow fall and strong winds stopped Veikka and Kazuya on their way to Hidden Peak’s Camp 2 on Monday. Facing total whiteout in crevassed terrain, the climbers chose to pitch a tent and wait out the storm. Not a problem for a Finn, Veikka’s home team reported. “Just like an average winter day in Finland,” Veikka had told them.
Today they’ll try to reach C2, weather permitting, in an preliminary acclimatization trip before pushing for the summit.
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