Karakoram Summer 2009 expeditions wrap-up : Nanga Parbat, G3 and G4 summit push updates.

(K2Climb.net) “Die Welt von morgen gehört dem, der heute eine Vision hat!!“ The world of tomorrow belongs to the person who has the vision today. …

These words were posted on Gerfried’s board – as the Austrian climber fights his way up a new route (image) up Nanga Parbat.

On G3/G4, Don, Guy, Billy and Bruce have reached the cwm at 7000 but David sustained a knee injury and was evacuated.

Nanga Parbat

“The New Route Team (Günther, Louis, Hans, Sepp and Gerfried) has reached 6,300meters after leaving the most difficult sections behind,” Göschl’s wife Heike reported yesterday. “We had to climb 800 vertical meters in 50&60º steep ice – it was exhausting,” Gerfried told Heike over sat-phone. Nanga Parbatnew route fromc1

The climbers’ plan was to climb another 1000 vertical meters today, but they had to settle for 600. We’ve pitched our tents at 6,900m,” Ger said in a later call, “we now expect to reach the summit on Saturday.”

Meanwhile, the climbers on the Kinshoffer route reached C3 yesterday. “The climb from C2 to C3 was steep, and entirely on hard ice,” Giuseppe Pompili reported. Tomorrow the Koreans’ Sherpas will fix the route to C4, with Miss Oh and Miss Go following. “As agreeded in a meeting on July 5th, it was Joao Garcia’s task to carry ropes to C3 – he’s a true Gentleman, who had to make two trips to C3 for it,” Pompili said. Joao, climbing with Pakistani Amin Ulal, is also aiming for a Friday summit, wind permitting.

“As for us, our third camp s a bit lower than usual,” Pompili noted. “Tomorrow (today) we’ll have a tough climb to C4’s 7,200m.”


“On Tuesday we made a13.5 hr round trip from Base Camp to Camp 2,” Sean Wisedale reported. “It was my first push up to 6450 meters – an altitude gain of 1350 meters. Fabrizio was fixing line as we went, breaking trail too. There’s a lot of snow and it’s exhausting getting through it. Camp 2 is now established and we have a healthy cache of rope, hard wear, tent and stoves up there.”

Gasherbrum III/IV

“Don, Guy, Billy and Bruce have reached the cwm at 7000 and are contemplating their next move,” home team Camilla Tengborn-Fält told ExplorersWeb. “If the weather forecast stays stable they will attempt a top-out G3 or G4. David sustained a knee injury at a crevasse-fall – he has been evacuated to Skardu.”

Gasherbrum I

Bulgarians Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov, Boyan Petrov and Nikolay Valkov set up Camp 2 (6500m) on GI on Tuesday, Peter Atanasov told ExplorersWeb. On Wednesday, the climbers hoped to climb further up to 6,700m before returning to BC.

That’s exactly what Veikka Gustafsson and Kazuya Hiraide did. At the end of the day they reached BC for a 3-4 days-long rest before launching the final summit push.

Gasherbrum II

“Gordon, Ian and myself decided to climb to camp one and descend later the same day,” Phil Crampton reported yesterday. “Upon reaching camp one, Gordon, John Furneaux from the Canada West expedition and myself proceed to break trail to the start of the fixed ropes that lead to camp two. Both Gordon and John are professional ski patrol guys and have extensive avalanche experience. We found a suitable steep slope and dug an avalanche pit to assess the snow pack conditions. Both the experts decided that the conditions required a few more days to consolidate.”

“Our Sherpa crew and Jagged’s HAP’s plan to dig ut buried fixed ropes tomorrow,” Phil added. “If the ropes are buried too deep the crew will re-fix the route where necessary. We are expecting the jet stream to make a dramatic appearance tomorrow for a few days. If all goes to plan, it will leave as suddenly as it arrived and allow us to get high on Gasherbrum II with manageable wind speeds.”

* Previous story  : – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/karakoram/

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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One Response

  1. hi.
    it will be a bit difficult for those climbers who are on G3 and G4 to summit. above 7000m on g3 and g4 there is hard ice and i think they will left some of the hardware in c4.If they succeeded in summitng the peaks than its a hard task to desend down.anyhow my best wishes for them and all the climbers.
    About the Nanga parbat team they will have to stay in c3 or in c4 for few days because the weather on nanga parbat is not reliable and the harsh clouds appears there.On nanga parbat it takes less than a minute to change the weather and i personally visited the base cam for many times and it is difficult to assign a plann to climb on it.I will suggest the climbers if they get a golden chance means the weather is clean they shoul rushed towards summit.

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