Karakoram Summer 2009 expeditions wrap-up : Joao Garcia summits Nanga Parbat – bags his 13th 8000er.

(K2climb.net/Madrid) Portuguese Joao Garcia summited Nanga Parbat in hard ice and high wind conditions today – thus bagging his 13th 8000er. Joao Garcia summited Nanga Parbat

“Only about 8 climbers have finally topped-out Nanga Parbat, on a 24 hours-long summit day.” Joao’s home team reported.

The Portuguese climber teamed up with Amin Ulal and Ali – a second local climber who wanted to attempt the mountain after the Iranian expedition he was working with called the expedition off. It is yet unclear whether Amin and Ali may have summited as well.

“After topping-out we will descend for the night to C4,” Joao said yesterday. “The mountain is overloaded with snow – attempting to climb back down to BC in the day’s latter hours would be too risky.”

News is still expected from other teams joining the summit push on Nanga’s Kinshoffer route – namely, Korean Oh Eun-sun’s and Go Mi-sun’s expeditions, Italians Giuseppe Pompili and Adriano Del Cin, and a large Austrian team. They all departed C4 around midnight today towards the summit.

Strong winds in C4 yesterday

Should everything go according to plans, Miss Oh would bag her 12th 8000er (thus equalling Edune Pasaban and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on the 14×8000 ranking). Naga would be Mis Go’s11th.

Kinshoffer teams arrived in C4 yesterday after six hours climbing in steep terrain and loads of snow, according to Giuseppe Pompili. “We helped to fix the route on the way, and arrived in C4 with Adriano first in line, breaking trail in caterpillar-style,” Giuseppe reported. “Skies were clear, but it was windy and very cold. We’ve decided to attempt the top along with the Koreans, in spite of not being completely acclimatized.”

New Route team aiming for a Saturday summit

As for the “New Route Team”, Gerfried and his three mates needed six hours to climb 600 vertical meters in deep snow and rather strong wind yesterday. Climbing in alpine style and without porters, they pitched their tents at 6,900 meters, and re-scheduled their summit plans: now they expect to reach the top on Saturday.

“Despite the delay – we are happy to realize that every step we take is on new terrain,” Gerfried stated over sat-phone.

Louis rousseau’s home team noted the climbers are setting up a fourth campt today, and hoping for the wind to decrease by the team they reach the upper slopes on their way to the summit. Once on top, they’ll descend via the normal route.

* Previous story  : – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/karakoram/

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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