Nepal Expedition – International Pumori Expedition Spring 2010.

International Pumori Expedition Spring 2010
Mount Pumori Ascend – More information.

The Mount Pumori Base camp can be reached from Kathmandu – Lukla flight; and then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Thangboche – Pheriche and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is 7145m. High and ascent starts at 5,300m; which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapthar at 5545m.

Pumori - normal route Pumori Route Map

Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the Elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also. Pumori from Kala Pattar

Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m, Is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Now camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice walls way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on it’s vertex Pumori 7145m.

Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak so by applying this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; and who will guide you nicely to reach you on the top of Pumori.

You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori .kala pattar pumori from gorak shep

You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge.

You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to limb.
South – West ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical difficulties; so we suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will comfortably reach on its Top. For the more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997.


13 April 2010 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
14 April 2010 Day 02: Kathmandu- Prepare Expedition
15 April 2010 Day 03: Briefing expedition in Ministry of tourism
16 April 2010 Day 04: Flight to Lukla & trek to Phakding lodge

17 April 2010 Day 05: Phakding to Namche lodge
18 April 2010 Day 06: Namche rest for acclimatization lodge
19 April 2010 Day 07: Namche – Thyanboche lodge
20 April 2010 Day 08: Thyangboche – Pheriche lodge
21 April 2010 Day 09: Pheriche – Lobuche lodge
22 April 2010 Day 10: Lobuche – Pumori Base Camp – Camping

23 April -11 May 2010 11-29 Climbing Period for Pumori 7145m. [ Route Map ]

12 May 2010 Day 30: Pumori BC – Pangboche -Lodge
13 May 2010 Day 31: Pangboche – Namche -Lodge
14 May 2010 Day 32: Namche – Lukla – Lodge
15 May 2010 Day 33: Fly Lukla – Kathmandu & transfer hotel
16 May 2010 Day 34: Kathmandu
17 May 2010 Day 35: final departures

Climbing Equipment List


01 Person USD 11000.00
02 Persons, Per Person USD 6000.00
03-04 Persons, Per Person USD 4200.00
05-07 Persons, Per Person USD 3500.00
08-12 Persons, Per Person USD 3000.00
13-15 Persons, Per Person USD 2500.00

Climbing Sherpa guide, Per Sherpa guide USD 2000.00

Cost includes:

  1. 5 Nights accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast at 3 Star Hotel.
  2. Permit fee of Pumori 7145m.Expedition
  3. Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Lhotse
  4. Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  5. Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
  6. Kathmandu -Lukla – Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
  7. Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
  8. Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
  9. 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand
  10. Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
  11. Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
  12. Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
  13. Satellite phone (Pay calls)
  14. Fare Well dinner

Cost does not include:

  1. PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking.
  2. Personal & medical Insurance of expedition.
  3. Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp.
  4. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
  5. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed.
  6. Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
  7. Oxygen & Mask -regulator.
  8. Personal expenses.
  9. Bar Bills & beverage.
  10. Garbage Deposit USD 3000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don’t take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.

*Source : –

** Previous story :

Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Mera Peak OCTOBER 2009.

Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Baruntse Expeditions.

Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Ama Dablam Expedition.

Nepal Expedition Trips 2009 – Island Peak Climbing.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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