Except for a single Spanish summit, K2 remained unclimbed this year. Too much snow, too dangerous conditions – the peak pushed climbers back until all chances were out. Other Pakistan peaks showed little success as well.
The season’s biggest sad event hit last Saturday, when a call went out for Oscar Perez seriously injured on Latok II. That black weekend, one by one reports trickled in from around the world about perished climbers.
At least good news arrived this Sunday about jailed Iranian K2 summiteer Kazem Faridian; and out on the Indian Ocean – Sarah Outen made it against the odds.
Latok rescue attempt called off For 10 days, Pakistani Army Air Corps helicopters and American, Pakistan and Spanish mountain climbers tried in vain to rescue Spanish climber Oscar Perez, stuck at approximately 6,200 m of altitude with a broken leg and an arm immobilized after suffering an accident when he tried to scale Latok II in alpine style with Alvaro Novellón. The rescue became a fight against the clock, with the uncertainty of knowing if Oscar Perez remained alive, since he did not have means to communicate with the outside world. The attempt was finally called off today Sunday, due to the elapsed time, failure to locate Oscar, and difficulty of the route in combination with bad weather posing danger to the rescuers.
Newsflash: K2 summiteer Kazem Faridian released Kazem Faridian was arrested on 25 June in Tehran, and held in the notorious Evin prison for almost 50 days. Kazem’s friends got in touch with ExWeb last week, worried about the silence since his arrest. He has now been released, and is reportedly doing all right.
American Climbing editor killed Climbing Mag Editor Craig Luebben, 49, was killed by falling ice on Mount Torment in Washington’s Cascades when climbing with Willie Benegas in preps for an Alpine Guide certification.
Andrzej Marciniak found dead in Tatras Polish climber Andrzej Marciniak was reportedly found dead in Tatras on Friday, August 7. Andrzej summited Everest in 1989 (May 24) as member in the expedition that killed five fellow Polish climbers.
Riccardo Cassin – died at age 100 Italian legend Riccardo Cassin died near Lecco on August 6. Part of Ragni di Lecco (the Lecco Spiders), Cassin made many legendary climbs in the Dolomites and around the world, fought in WWII and set up shop with his own climbing gear. In 1961 at age 52, Riccardo became the first to summit Denali via the Cassin Ridge, and he continued to climb well into his 80s.
Eun-sun summits GI, her 13th 8000er South Korean Oh Eun-sun topped out GI, her 13th 8000er, on August 3. The South Korean lady climber has now just Annapurna left to complete the 14x8000ers list. GI (Hidden Peak) is Miss Oh’s fourth 8000er summited only this year – after Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri and Nanga Parbat. The South Korean climber is now on top of the female 14x8000ers rank.
Carlos Soria summits G1 Also Soria’s team summited G1 with the Koreans. Carlos may have become the oldest GI summiteer by topping out at 70. He has previously summited eight other 8000ers.
Gasherbrum II: Daniela Teixeira’s debrief, details about Luis and summits, and a good word for Altitude Junkies In her debrief, Portuguese Daniela Teixeira (teaming up with Paulo Roxo) reported that the duos’ GII’s French Spur attempt was aborted due to bad conditions. She sounded off on friend Luis Maria Barbero, a member in Soria’s team who was killed on the normal route, “we found it strange that until we asked, nobody said a word about his dissapereance,” Daniela wrote. She finally congratulated Altitude Junkies for fetching Iranian garbage from a crevasse. In response, the Iranian climbers said they removed most their trash except for some which they paid HAPs to remove.
Gasherbrum II Bulgarian Boyan Petrov reportedly summited Gasherbrum II in an individual push. Boyan’s was the first 8000er double-header achieved in Pakistan’s 8000ers this season. He is also an insulin-dependent diabetic.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Karakoram, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Andrzej Marciniak, Climbers, Craig Luebben, Gasherbrum, K2, Karakorum, mountaineering, Oscar Perez, Pakistan, Polish climber, Travel |