Lots is going on at this moment in Himalaya. Miss Oh Eun-sun left C3 early Friday towards Annapurna summit. Two Korean climbers on a nearby peak have been missing for more than a week. A summit push is also ongoing on Manaslu and climbers are high up on Shisha Pangma, where a huge winter storm hit today while Mazur’s team shortroped an ill climber down.
In other news: Simone Moro has scrubbed his Cho Oyu SW face attempt due to the Chinese closure of Tibet. Kudos go this season to a number of independent climbers and commercial teams such as Altitude Junkies and SummitClimb for helping to keep the record straight with regards to true summits.
“There was more sea ice in the Arctic this summer than in the past two years contrary to early spring ice forecasts and the longer-term trend of melting sea ice,” report the NW Passage vessels. And while we wait for news from the mountains, a Netbook Review from HumanEdgeTech is this weekend’s special read. Of over 100 models tested, there are five recommendations and one maybe.
Annapurna summit push Miss Oh Eun-sun is on summit push, hoping to top out Saturday or Sunday. Except for bruises, Jae-Soo Kim was unharmed in the avalanche last week. Less lucky was his cameraman Hyun-Han Shin who broke his leg and was evacuated. Kim Jae-Soo, Oh Eun-sun, Kim Chang-Ho, Choi Sung-Suk and Kim Hong-Bin left C3 at 02:00am Friday towards Annapurna summit.
Hiunchuli Concerns are growing for Korean climbers June-Hong Min and Jong-Sung Park. Aiming for a new route on Hiunchuli (6.441m), located close to Annapurna’s south side Sanctuary, by Monday Min and Park had been missing for four days reported Kim Jae-Soo’s team on Annapurna I (climbing from the North side).
Manaslu summit push Guillaume Hintzy reported bad weather and strong winds expected to shortly hit the mountain for about 10 days. Running out of time, the team is therefore attempting the summit, without oxygen, during the night between the 3rd and 4th of October.
Shisha Pangma North rescue SummitClimb guide Dan Mazur reported a tough descent from the central summit. Bart Dirven collapsed above C3 and the team has been fighting hard to help him down. Short-roped by Dan with the Sherpas in close proximity. “We’re treating it as a full on rescue,” the team reported Friday, “we think Bart will be okay though.” Latest word is that all arrived safe in half-camp. Meanwhile a huge storm has blown in, and everyone’s thoughts are also with Andrew, Neal, the Spanish, and the French team, high up on the peak.
Shisha Pangma North true summit encore After reaching Shisha’s central summit on Sunday, American Nick Rice and Italian Mario Panzeri will try the Main summit via the Iñaki route. “It’s amazing that we are willing to go to this much trouble over a few meters of altitude difference between the Central and Main summits,” Nick noted. By contrast, “I stand on the summit of wonderful Shisha Pangma, 8013 meter above the sea,” Swede Annelie Pompe, 28, was quoted in Swedish media late last week. Check ExWeb’s encore on true vs. false summits. At this point, there are no confirmed reports of anyone summiting Shisha Pangma this season.
Manaslu summit question marks Dream Guide’s home team reported that everyone summited and Guy & Emma skied from the top last weekend. More details on the climb and ski descent are expected however. Altitude Junkies’ Sherpa Samuli and Pasang Gumba said the conditions beyond where the fixed rope ended were unsafe for further travel along the ridge to the true summit. Samuli took photos of where the fixed rope ended, which was around 30 meters linear and 15 meters vertical short of the true summit. AJ team leader Phil Crampton confirmed that his team stopped short from Manaslu’s true summit and as Samuli was the last and only climber who went slightly pass the fixed rope on the 27th, seems that no one reached the true summit on the 27th.
Everest After two rest days in ABC Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo are ready for a new attempt on Everest’s Super-Couloir (Japanese+Hornbein couloirs combination) as soon as they get a favorable weather forecast.
Shisha Pangma South Edurne and Al Filo are done with their acclimatization and plan summit push when weather conditions improve. Shisha’s South face pioneer Jean Troillet is in BC while a strong Italian team led by Roby Piantoni will attempt a new route on the south face. If successful, Adriano Greco will try a ski-decent down the Yugoslavian route.
Cho Oyu – SW face Simone Moro has scrubbed his Cho Oyu SW face attempt due to the Chinese closure of Tibet. “No entries into Tibet are allowed, even if the necessary permissions and permits have already been obtained,” he reported. Simone says that the Chinese have been playing cat-and-mouse with the dates since, at best leaving the expedition only 15 days for the ascent. The Czech team’s attempt was halted by an avalanche at 6,900m.
Cho Oyu A large number of climbers summited Cho Oyu through the week and last weekend. According to team’s reports, Birgitte Frost became the first Danish woman to summit Cho Oyu. Andrea Cardona became the first woman to do so from Guatemala, and the first lady climber from Central America to summit any 8000er.
K2 pioneer Charles Houston passes at 96 American K2 explorer and high-altitude physician Charles Houston died Sunday, Sept. 27th, at 96 years old. Member in the 1935 Nanda Devi expedition, Houston tried K2 in 1938 and 1953. Houston wrote “K2: The Savage Mountain” and later Bernadette McDonald compiled his biography in “Brotherhood of the Rope.”
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Annapurna, Cho Oyu, Climbers, Everest, Expedition, Himalaya, Makalu West Pillar, Manaslu, Miss Oh Eun-sun, mountaineering, Shisha Pangma, Simone Moro, Travel |