Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

(MountEverest.net) It’s been an action-packed weekend, with Miss Oh failing her first (but not last) summit push on Annapurna, and Andrew Lock celebrating the summit of his 14th 8000er – after a very tough climb to Shisha Pangma Main, with an open bivouac in a storm included.

Other teams on Shisha, Everest and Manaslu are preparing to set off as soon as weather conditions improve.

Sadly, hope is lost for the Korean climbers missing on Hiunchuli – the search has been called off.

Shisha Pangma – North side Andrew Lock Shisha Pangma 2009

Andrew Lock and Neil Ward climbed up a variation of the Iñaki route on Friday morning along with Alex Gavan, Nick Rice reported from Shisha’s North side BC.

Alex turned back with symptoms of HAPE. “On Saturday morning, we received news that Andrew and Neil had spent the night in a bivy around 7,600m and had only just reached Camp III. As night came, they stopped for the night in Camp I. Andrew and Neil did in fact summit the Main Summit.”

Back in BC yesterday, the summiteers confirmed the news.

Meanwhile, Dan Mazur’s SummitClimb team is safely back in BC – including Bart.

Other climbers are currently waiting for better conditions to follow in Andrew and Neil’s trace: American Nick Rice, Italian Marco Panzeri, Polish Kinga Baranowska and Romanian Horia Colibasanu.

Shisha Pangma – South side  Italian team climber heading up the British route on Shisha Pangmas South face

The sun finally hit BC and Edurne’s spirits rose today. “Weather forecasts show an improvement from October 8th – wind will be still blowing strong o on the mountain’s upper sections, but we hope it will eventually decrease enough to let us launch a summit bid,” she reported.

“We’re back in BC after spending some days at altitude to improve our acclimatization,” Piantoni’s team reported. “Loaded with 20kg heavy backpacks, we headed up the British route,” The climbers reached as far as 6,600m in a two-days climb. “A beautiful climb up a 40º/55º steep couloir on snow and ice,” they said.


“Korean climbers (including Miss Oh) are back in Annapurna BC, aiming to launch another summit push by mid October,” ExWeb’s Korea correspondent Kyu Dam Lee reported. “D-day might be October 15th, weather permitting.”

Cho Oyu

“Four of us summited Cho Oyu on October 1st, after a 14-15 hours-long climb from C2 – we are currently back in BC,” Leopold Sulovski’s Czech team reported. The climbers went for Cho Oyu’s normal route after conditions on the SW side (where they had hoped to open a new route) proved too dangerous.


All efforts to find and rescue Korean climbers Min Jung-Young and Park Jong-Sung, missing on Hiunchuli for over a week, have proved useless. “We did our best, but found no trace of them,” Jik-Ji expedition members stated, according to local media.

“Among the 11 member-strong Jik-Ji expedition, some climbed Hiunchuli’s normal route, while other members (including the missing climbers) hoped to open a new route on the peak’s north face,” Kyu Dam Lee reported.


Italians Cala and Ivo failed to reach C3 in a first summit attempt last weekend, due to bad weather. “We’re back and hoping to launch another summit bid in two days,” they reported in a later update yesterday.

“There’s wind and snow – it seems the storm will be with us for some time,” Chileans Rodrigo and Andrés reported yesterday. “Thanks to forecasts, we were able to reach C2 and return before the stormy spell set in though.”

** Previous story :

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Basques survive two avalanches on Everest, Manaslu summits, news expected from Shisha.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Summits on Cho Oyu, More To Come Soon!

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : It’s Go Time!

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Satopanth summits, Himalaya climbers reporting on trash.

Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Puja Done, Time to Move Up!

Himalaya 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Ueli’s first trip up Makalu West Pillar, Cho Oyu teams ready for C1, expeditions’ equipment searched at Tibet’s border.

Himalaya Autumn 2009 expeditions.

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: