Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Race against the storm on Shisha north side, note about Inaki’s route, and a few season’s records.

(MountEverest.net) Four climbers willl try a fast bid on Shisha’s north side, hoping to make it up and back before the forecasted storm on October 8-9th,

It’s over for Kim Jae-Soo on Annapurna but fellow Koreans including Oh Eun-Sun are still holding.

Gerfried Göschl comments on the recent Shisha north side route while Rodrigo Granzotto offers some cool records in the current Himalayan season.

Annapurna

Kim Jae-Soo had hoped to bring a picture of long-time mate Go Mi-Sun (recently perished on Nanga Parbat) to Anna’s top but now the Korean 10x8000er summiteer is calling the attempt off and leaving BC tomorrow.

Korean climbers such as Eun-Sun Oh (Black Yak), Kim Hong-Bin (Making Hope) and Busan climbers Kim Hang-Ho and Suh Sung-Ho are hoping for another shot.

The climbers now joining hands are leftovers from separate teams. Kim Hong-Bin is a disabled climber (he lost his hands to frostbite on Denali) taking part in a rehabilitation program called ‘Making Hope’. This program is on the peak with an expedition that also includes some doctors from the project, according to ExWeb’s Korea correspondent Kyu Dam Lee.

Shisha Pangma

“Shortly after waking up, Mario came over to my tent with less than desirable news about the weather: heavy precipitation forecasted for the 8th and 9th of October,” Nick Rice reported yesterday.

“(However) we quickly decided that we would head up tomorrow (today) directly to Camp II and try and beat the bad weather. After recent snow falls, Iñaki’s route will surely be too avalanche-prone and far too dangerous for an attempt. Therefore, we will try for the main summit quickly before the new snow falls and hopefully get up and down before the bad weather begins. We are expecting the forecast high winds (around 40km/hr) on our summit push and hoping that all our cold weather gear is enough to stave off frostbite.”

“Mario and I will be teaming up with Kinga Baranowska (Poland) and Horia (Romania),” Nick added.

Note on Shisha’s north side routes

Gerfried Göschl states that Iñaki’s route was actually opened by Austrian climbers almost 30 years ago. Iñaki's variation route on Shisha's north

“First to climb that route were Austrians Ewald Putz and Egon Obojes, back in 1980,” Gerfried Göschl wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb yesterday. “At reporting his recent climb, Andrew Lock shouldn’t talk of a variation of Iñaki’s route, but a variation of the Austrian route.”

Comparing topos of both routes though, it seems Iñaki’s line goes slightly to the right of the Austrian route – check both images (illustrating this wrap-up) to compare.

Dhaulagiri

“Cala and Ivo are stuck in BC due to bad weather conditions,” the Italians’ home team reported. “All we have is rain and wind, wind and rain – and it will go on like this until Thursday, according to forecasts.”

Season’s notes

And here finally, go some interesting facts compiled by Rodrigo Granzotto:

Andrew Lock achieved the first Australian ascent on Shisha Pangma Main, and became the first Australian 14x8000er summiteer. His mate Neil Ward is the first Shisha Main summiteer from Wales.

On Cho Oyu, Anastasia Illiopoulou became the first Greek lady climber, while Andrea Cardona bagged the first female ascent from Guatemala and Central America, and Birgitte Frost Nohr achieved the first female Danish Cho Oyu summit.

Outstanding Sherpa guide Danuru Sherpa, working with IMG, summited Cho Oyu for the 9th time, thus becoming the current record-holder on the mountain. It was also his 21th main 8000er, a score he now shares with Ed Viesturs and which places them both only second with most 8000ers summited – close behind Juanito Oiarzabal, at 23.

** Previous story :

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Basques survive two avalanches on Everest, Manaslu summits, news expected from Shisha.

–  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Summits on Cho Oyu, More To Come Soon!

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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