Twelve men have walked on the moon. Seventeen had climbed all the world’s 8000ers until a few days back, when Australian Andrew Lock became number 18. His achievement is no silly record game; three climbers died in Himalaya only in the past two weeks.
More summit attempts are underway, most planned to kick-off today. In other news: HumanEdgeTech ran a review of Thuraya XT along with a general 2010 sat phone overview, Todd Carmichael has left for Death Valley, a British team is off for Namibia’s Skeleton Coast, and two 16-year old girls want to become the youngest to sail around the world.
Shisha Pangma: Andrew Lock becomes 14x8000er summiteer! “I DID IT!,” Andrew Lock hollered into cyberspace. “I summitted the true summit of Shisha Pangma at 5.05pm, October 2nd, together with Neil Ward.” Andrew reported a very tough climb via a variation of the Inaki route on the north face and an open bivouac at 7,600m without gear in the storm. Andrew has thus become the 18th man to ever summit the 14 8,000ers, and the first Australian.
Inaki’s Austrian route? Gerfried Göschl told ExWeb that Iñaki’s route was actually opened by Austrians Ewald Putz and Egon Obojes in 1980. Comparing topos of both routes though, it seems Iñaki’s line goes slightly to the right of the Austrian route.
Shisha Pangma – North side Dan Mazur’s SummitClimb – including Bart – arrived safely in BC. Nick Rice, Mario Panzeri, Kinga Baranowska and Horia Colibasanu planned to launch a summit push on Sunday, hoping for a Wednesday/Thursday summit.
Shisha Pangma – South side Climbing a 40º/55º steep couloir on snow and ice with 20kg heavy backpacks, Piantoni’s team reached 6,600m on the British route in a 2-day acclimatization round. Edurne & Co planned to set off from BC on Sunday and shoot for a Wednesday summit.
Annapurna Pushed back by the storm last weekend, next “D-day might be October 15th, weather permitting,” ExWeb’s correspondent in Korea Kyu Dam Lee reported about Miss Oh. Kim Jae-Soo called his expedition off but remains in BC due to bad weather. The climbers now joining hands are leftovers from separate teams such as disabled Kim Hong-Bin who lost his hands to frostbite on Denali. Oh Eun-Sun, Kim Chang-Ho, Kim Sung-Ho and Kim Hong-Bin will check conditions on the route before deciding on the next move.
Dhaulagiri Italians Cala and Ivo failed to reach C3 in a first summit attempt last weekend. Chileans Rodrigo and Andrés, reaching C2, confirmed bad weather hitting the peak. The blizzard almost destroyed Cala and Ivo’s dining tent and the climbers have concerns for tents in high camps. Cala and Ivo are were to depart back up towards C1 Saturday.
Everest The Basque team on the Hornbein Couloir is holding for weather.
Manaslu A serac fall reportedly killed Slovenian Franc Oderlap on October 1st. In spite of a rescue haul to BC, the mountaineer could not be saved and died presumably of brain injuries. The three French climbers Hintzy, Michel and Laurence remain in BC hoping for another shot on the summit.
Manaslu summit debrief Dream Guides’ Guy Willett told ExplorersWeb that Phil’s/Chinese rope stopped about 15-20m (vertical) below the true summit, where the ridge narrows to a crest. Himex guide Adrian fixed new rope to the true summit one day later, and the 10-member Himex team plus Dream Guides and their Sherpa topped out on the 28th, all on oxygen. Guy and Emma skied much of the way down to BC from about 15m below the true summit. Chilean Alex Koller summitted without oxygen and skied back to C4. His mate Andres skied from 8,000meters (where he turned around) to C3.
Hiunchuli All efforts to find and rescue Korean climbers Min Jung-Young and Park Jong-Sung proved useless. “We did our best, but found no trace of them,” Jik-Ji expedition members told local media and arrived back in Korea on Friday (Oct 9). The lost climbers had hoped to open a new route on the peak’s north face.
Season’s notes Rodrigo Granzotto Peron reported that Andrew Lock achieved the first Australian ascent on Shisha Pangma Main while mate Neil Ward is the first Shisha Main summiteer from Wales. On Cho Oyu, Anastasia Illiopoulou became the first Greek lady climber, while Andrea Cardona bagged the first female ascent from Guatemala and Central America, and Birgitte Frost Nohr achieved the first female Danish Cho Oyu summit. Sherpa guide Danuru Sherpa summited Cho Oyu for the 9th time, thus becoming the current record-holder on the mountain. It was also his 21th main 8000er, a score he now shares with Ed Viesturs and which places them both only second with most 8000ers summited – close behind Juanito Oiarzabal, at 23.
Summer 2010 preview: GI’s north face Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli and Daniele Bernasconi hope to bag the unclimbed north face of Gasherbrum I in alpine style next summer, Montagna.org reported. The expedition, organized by Agostino de Polenza, pays tribute to the late Karl Unterkircher: Bernasconi and Unterkircher opened a new route on GII’s north side three years ago.
HumanEdgeTech Review: Thuraya XT and a general 2010 satellite phone overview Thuraya continues to roll out the most exciting handheld satellite phones on the market. Check out HET’s review of the new XT and an overview of the competition such as Terrestar’s Genius announced for early 2010.
ExWeb interview with Todd Carmichael, “Keeping covered is key in order to avoid sun exposure in Death Valley” Todd skied solo to the South Pole in the 2008-09 season in a speed record time of 39 days, 7 hours and 49 minutes. His other expeditions have taken him to various places in Africa. Shortly before his current trek of 400 miles, or more, in the Death Valley Wilderness, ExWeb’s Correne Coetzer caught up with Todd for an interview. “2009 was one of the hottest years on record for Death Valley and last week we saw a number of days at 113 [45°C], with nightly lows above 100 [37.8°C],” Todd said. Carrying only 33 gallons of water, “the plan is to apply a polar work regimen to the desert – seven to eight marches daily until the end, where I let it rip,” he said.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Andrew Lock, Annapurna, Cho Oyu, Climbers, Dhaulagiri, Everest, Expedition, Himalaya, Makalu West Pillar, Manaslu, mountaineering, Shisha Pangma, Travel, world's 8000ers |