Oct 05, 2009
(MountEverest.net/Madrid) “I DID IT!,” Andrew Lock reported live over Contact 4.0 yesterday from BC. “I summitted the true summit of Shishapangma at 5.05pm, October 2nd, together with Neil Ward.”
“It was a very tough climb via a variation of the Inaki route on the north face,” Andrew added. “We were caught in a storm on descent which forced us to an open bivouac at 7,600m without equipment thrown in for good measure.”
“I’ve just iarrived in Base Camp, bit tired, more later. ”
Andrew has thus become the 18th man to ever summit the 14 8,000ers, and the first Australian.
Andrew Lock (born 26 December 1961) is Australia’s most accomplished high altitude mountaineer. He completed his personal mountaineering project is to be the first Australian to climb all fourteen “eight-thousanders” (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level) in October 2009. In all he has climbed all 14 8000m peaks, with 18 personal 8000 meter summits, having climbed several twice. Andrew also has climbed to both summits of Shishapangma (most climb to the false summit and only very few have completed the 14 x 8000m by climbing to the true summit of Shishapangma)
His preferred climbing style is in small teams, climbing without sherpa support or auxiliary oxygen and along the way he has achieved five first Australian ascents (Dhaulagiri, Nanga Parbat, Hidden Peak, Manaslu and Annapurna) and three solo ascents (Lhotse, Broad Peak and Cho Oyu). He has summited Mt Everest, twice.
His first 8000 metre summit was of K2, which he climbed in 1993 with a small team that included Anatoli Boukreev. The mountain lived up to its fearsome reputation when two of his climbing partners were killed in separate falls and Lock rescued a Swedish climber. In 2004 he was a climber and cinematographer for the Discovery Channel six part mini series, Ultimate Survival – Everest, which has been broadcast on multiple occasions throughout North America. On that expedition, Lock personally rescued 3 members of other teams coming down from the summit, giving up his own oxygen along the way.
Lock has climbed with many of the world’s best, including Anatoli Boukreev (K2 in 1993), Göran Kropp (Broad Peak in 1994), Doug Scott and Voytek Kurtyka (Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge in 1995) & Ivan Vallejo and Inaki Ochoa (Annapurna 2007).
8000 metre accomplishments :
- 1993 K2 (8,611 metres) – 1st Australian ascent via Pakistan
- 1997 Dhaulagiri (8,167 metres) – 1st Australian ascent
- 1997 Broad Peak (8,048 metres) – Solo ascent
- 1998 Nanga Parbat (8,125 metres) – 1st Australian ascent
- 1999 Hidden Peak (8,068 metres) – 1st Australian ascent
- 1999 Gasherbrum II (8,035 metres) – Alpine style ascent
- 2000 Everest (8,850 metres) – 1st Australian to lead a commercial expedition to the summit of Mt Everest
- 2002 Manaslu (8,163 metres) – 1st Australian ascent
- 2002 Lhotse (8,450 metres) – solo ascent
- 2003 Shishapangma Central (8008 meters) – solo ascent
- 2004 Everest (8,848 metres) – 2nd personal ascent – Discovery channel expedition climber and cameraman
- 2004 Cho Oyu (8,201 metres) – solo ascent
- 2005 Cho Oyu (8,201 metres) – 2nd personal ascent – commercial expedition leader
- 2005 Shishapangma Central (8008 meters) – 2nd personal ascent – commercial expedition leader
- 2006 Kanchenjunga (8,596 metres) – 2nd Australian ascent
- 2007 Annapurna (8,091 metres) – 1st Australian ascent
- 2008 Makalu (8,496 metres) –
- 2009 Shishapangma Main Summit (8,027 metres)
Climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders
Field 02 lists people who have peaked all 14 without bottled oxygen.
|8||Young Seok Park||1993-2001||1963||38||Korean|
|9||Hong Gil Um||1988-2001||1960||40||Korean|
|11||Wang Yong Han||1994-2003||1966||37||Korean|
|15||8 ||Denis Urubko||2000-2009||1973||35||Kazakhstan|
* Previous story : – Veikka Gustafsson completes the 14×8000ers list!
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga
Filed under: all eight-thousanders, Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Travel | Tagged: all eight-thousanders, Andrew Lock, Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Karakorum, mountaineering, Pakistan, Travel |