(MountEverest.net) “Hi, It’s me again, Piotr Pustelnik. I must have some serious mental illness… I want to go back to Annapurna next spring.”
Piortr’s email to ExWeb proves that strong hearts (or insanity ) prevail over defeat and lost friends.
A tribute to Piotr Morawski
The amazing “Three Peters” (Pustelik, Hamor and Morawski) suffered a fatal blow this spring when Piotr Morawski fell to his death in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri. “I still get emotional thinking about him and that stupid accident,” Piotr told ExplorersWeb. “However, Peter Hamor and I must get out of the shadow after Piotrek’s death. Maybe this trip should be a tribute to him.”
This marks Piort’s fifth attempt to summit his 14th 8000er, against all hardship and several “promises” of retirement. “I’m gathering a team of friends and old companions,” Pustelnik said about his upcoming attempt. Seasoned Annapurna veteran and 11, 8000er summiteer Serguey Bogomolov from Russia is one. Bogomolov tried Anna latest in 2008; suffered frostbite and left for home, but returned to try and rescue Iñaki Ochoa de Olza.
Besides Piotr, others who will try to complete their 14x8000er projects on Annaurna next spring are Portuguese Joao Garcia, Korean Oh Eun-Sun and possibly Spanish Edurne Pasaban.
Spaniard Carlos Pauner has set sights on Annapurna as well. “Enough of bad luck and ‘easy’ 8000ers,” he said after a failed Shisha Pangma some weeks ago. “Next time I’ll go for the hardest – that is, Annapurna in spring 2010!”
A spring mountain
“Annapurna is a spring peak; chances of success are greatest before the monsoon leaves the mountain overloaded with snow in fall,” Edurne said in a press conference yesterday. The number of strong climbers working together should help as well.
Annapurna is the most deadly of the 8000ers. The overall fatality rate according to 2004 data was 41%, or four and a half times that of Everest’s overall fatality rate of 9%.
No one summited Annapurna this past spring. Elisabeth Revol and Martin Minarik reached the Eastern summit but Czech Minarik perished on descent. Russian Valery Babanov was forced to abort his plans to attempt a new route due to bad conditions.
Ed note: Still Crazy is a 1998 comedy film about a fictional 1970s rock band named “Strange Fruit”, who, after being split up for several decades, are convinced to get back together to perform at a reunion of the same concert venue where they played their last gig. It was nominated for two Golden Globes in 1999. (Text courtesy Wikipedia).
(The status: July 13, 2008)
The Himalayan Trilogy dream team (Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor) set up a grand plan to span over the next two years: the north-west face of Annapurna; a long G1/G2/G3 traverse; all Broad Peaks; a new route on the east face of Everest; the north face of Manaslu and…the north-west ridge of Rakaposhi.
The “Tres Pedros” organized the plot in the following sections:
Code name: Himalayan Trilogy – Reactivation
A. Ama Dablam (acclimatization)
1. Annapurna north-west face (Czech route)
2. G1-2-3: A long traverse from G1 to G2 and G3 starting via the original (first ascent) American line to G1, then to Gasherbrum La and on the ridge thru Gasherbrum East to G2 and G3.
3. Broad Peak – the entire summit ridge
Code name: Himalayan Trilogy – Revolution
A. Kantega or Baruntse (acclimatization)
1. East face of Everest – new route
2. North face of Manaslu – new route by Peter Hamor & Piotr Morawski – “not me, I’m too old ” says Peter.
3. North-west ridge of Rakaposhi
The current status: Ama Dablam; check. Annapurna; close but no cigar. G1-2-3; G1&G2 bagged in a long, very hard Gasherbrum traverse (not the same as a double header) by Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor – only the second ever of two 8000ers, after Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander; a very difficult conquest that remained unrepeated for 24 years.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Piotr Pustelnik, Travel Tagged: | 14x8000er project, Annapurna, Climbers, Edurne Pasaban, Expedition, Himalayas, Joao Garcia, Nepal, Oh Eun-sun, Peter Hamor, Piotr Morawski, Piotr Pustelnik, trave