Yes it’s that time of the year again! Check out the first edition of the brand new 2010 Everest and Himalaya list of expeditions in the main menu (click “Expedition List“).
Everest and Lhotse at a glance
American Gavin Turner will attempt an Everest double traverse while Australian Andrew Lock will try to climb the peak from Tibet to Nepal without supplementary oxygen.
* These plans may be impossible to implement, see – Everest 2010: No Everest Traverses in 2010.
Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki will give Everest another shot without O2, and Everest mega-summiteer Dave Hahn is back leading RMI’s 2010 expedition.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and husband Ralf Dujmovits will return to Everest north face for an oxygen-less attempt.
A Christian group will climb Everest for Jesus while Jordan Romero hopes to bag the peak at the ripe age of 13.
The north side seems to be fully open again, attracting regulars such as Jamie McGuinness, Alex Abramov and Dan Mazur. Adventure Peaks, Kobler and Jagged-Globe will be there as well.
After her Antarctica ski this winter, Canuck Aerospace Engineer Meagan McGrath will climb Lhotse, before attempting K2 in summer. 2008 K2 survivor Marco Confortola might try Lhotse with one of the Sherpas who saved his life.
Annapurna – the main event
Expect the biggest action on Annapurna though. Edurne Pasaban will try Anna and Shisha in the same season – her two last 8000ers.
No less than five South Korean expeditions will be in place, including Oh Eun Sun with her two regular Sherpas hoping to safely crown her final 8000er quest.
Piotr Pustelnik is back to face his last 8000er for the fifth time, dedicating the climb to long-time friend and climbing mate Piotr Morawski, perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri last year.
Also on Annapurna, Joao Garcia will attempt to become the first Portuguese 14x8000er summiteer while South Korean 14x8000er summiteer Young-Seok Park aims for Anna’s mighty south face following his new route on Everest last year.
With eight 8000ers bagged, Spanish Carlos Pauner hit a series of glitches on Shisha Pangma and Manaslu last year, now hoping for vindication on Annapurna.
American Nick Rice plans to give Kangchenjunga a shot, most likely by the British Route on the south face, and then head back to Pakistan for his second attempt on K2.
American mountain guide Fabrizio Zangrilli will lead Field Touring Alpine’s first expedition on Makalu while the British Service plans a second attempt on Makalu South East Ridge.
Over on Manaslu, veteran Spanish climber Carlos Soria hopes to tick off his Himalaya no 9 at age 71.
Himalaya 2010 list of expeditions updates:
Last spring, the Kazakh National team tried the unclimbed Lhotse-Everest traverse. Using no supplementary O2 the men made two summit attempts. The final summit push ended up with retreat in bad conditions and the loss of team member Serguey Samoilov.
Now coach Ervand Iljinsky confirms that the team will return – for Lhotse only this time though.
“Lhotse is the only 8000er left for Kazakhstan National team on its collective 14x8000ers quest, so the peak is currently the climbers’ nº1 priority,” Andrey Verkhovod reported from Almaty. “Last year’s effort took so much energy from the men, that this time they’ve chosen to focus only on Lhotse summit.”
“Except for some last-minute changes, the team’s core will consist mainly of the leading members of CSKA (Central Sports Club of Kazakh Army) that led the previous attempt on Lhotse in spring 2009: Max Zhumayev, Vaso Pivtsov (just back from a winter attempt on Kwande Lho), Evgeniy Shutov and Alex Sofrygin,” Andrey Verkhovod stated. “Some younger members of CSKA may be included in the team too.”
Confortola & Pasang Bhote
2008 K2 survivor Marco Confortola will definitely climb Lhotse, together with Pasang Lama from the Bhote family, friends confirmed. Pasang was one of the Sherpas who saved Marco on K2.
Xavi Arias training for Annapurna on Aconcagua
Xavi emailed ExWeb from Mendoza, Argentina just after topping Aconcagua. “Following my trainer’s instructions, I climbed as fast as I could – and summited Aconcagua in 10 hours from BC (in great conditions), on January 23rd,” Arias wrote. “I hope this will help on Anna. Another plus is that this time I’m not climbing on my own, but together with Lluis Rafols.”
Arias summited Lhotse without O2 last year, and Everest (on O2) in 2008. He attempted Annapurna in 2000.
Niclevicz’s Everest: postponed
Meanwhile, Brazilian Waldemar Niklevicz updated ExWeb that his planned Everest expedition has been postponed for 2011.
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