Annapurna 2010 wrap-up: Miss Oh summit push is on, Edurne summit pic early.

Sticking to plans made weeks ago, Korean Oh Eun Sun has set off from BC for her summit push and is currently resting in C2, preparing to venture to C3 in a few hours (Friday local time). Two cameramen are following her steps ready to broadcast the potentially historic ascent live to BC – and the world.

The South Korean lady climber planned the climb in order to step on her last 8000m+ summit within the two hours that KBS TV nextwork has scheduled for Sunday morning.

ExWeb Korea correspondent Kyu Dam Lee forwarded Miss Oh’s summit push schedule, as reported by Sponsor Black Yak office in Seoul:

“Miss Oh has passed by C1 at 5,100 m and is spending tonight in C2 at 5,600 m,” Kyu reported. “Tomorrow (April 23) she hopes to get to C3 at 6,400m; C4 at 7,200m on Saturday and the summit on Sunday, April 25th.”

KBS is announcing a 2 hour live broadcast at Channel 1 on Sunday, from 13:00 to 15:20, Korea time. Those interested (and fluent in Korean) may check it online
here (registering is necessary).

Other teams

As for other teams on the peak, Horia Colibasanu mentioned April 27 (next Tuesday) as potential summit day. Jorge Egocheaga and Martin Ramos hoped to attempt the summit on Sunday, but weather forecasts changed also their target summit date for April 27.

Edurne summit pic, Joao and avalanched climbers in BC, new push underway.

Posted: Apr 19, 2010 08:16 am EST
After an intense summit weekend, things are settling down in Annapurna BC. Edurne and Co. are packing to move to Shisha Pangma asap and Joao enjoys the thicker air of BC after a fast ascent and two days on descent.

Xavi Arias, injured in an avalanche while sleeping in C3 last Friday, is being treated by docs in BC and recovering well, but still shocked by the close call.

Meanwhile, impatience grows among the teams yet to launch a summit push.

Al Filo team: Anna check, Shisha next

Edurne Pasaban, Nacho Orviz, Alex Chicon, Asier Izaguirre and Sherpas Pasang, Mingma and Gempu are back in BC preparing for their next goal: Shisha Pangma. They will be airlifted to Tatopani on Wednesday, and hope to leave for the Tibetan border by Friday. After arrival in BC yesterday, the team had just time to send some fresh summit images before collapsing into their sleeping bags.

Edurne is trying to contact other teams on Shisha – most of all Italians Mario Panzeri and Michele Compagnoni who, like Al Filo team, plan to climb Iñaki variation on the north side. Mario and Michele reached BC on Friday, according to

Joao: One more day on the way down

While Edurne and the rest of Al Filo team reached BC on Sunday evening, Joao García stopped at C2 for a second night on the mountain. “It was a huge effort, it isn’t worth it to proceed down as exhausted as I am – I’d rather stay in C2,” he explained. “take into account, I have no Sherpas as Al filo Team so, since I have also recover all my gear, I am carrying over 20kg on my back!” Joao also accomplished a very fast climb on ascent: in order to catch up with the Spaniards, he rushed from BC to C3 in one day, carrying a 15kg-heavy backpack.

Earlier today, the brand new no-O2, 14x8000er summiteer was received with hugs in BC. “It’s done,” he just said. “Finally, I feel O2-rich air – I just need some rest.”

A new push underway

While summit teams celebrate success in BC Martin Ramos and Jorge Egocheaga, among the strongest climbers on the spot, are preparing to lead a fast summit push as soon as weather permits –maybe tomorrow?

“On April15th we pushed all the way from BC to C3, left a tent there and retreat for the night to C2,2 Martin recounted. “On Friday, we pitched the tent, although we didn´t like the camp location at all. Some time liter Juanito came, and agreed that the place was not safe. Before we could react, ice chunks the size of washing machines were flying over us.”

“We waited for it to pass, removed the tent and moved it a bit lower, sheltered by a serac. Then we spent the night there. On Saturday, while Al filo and Joao summited, we returned to BC.”

“The plan is to remain two days resting in BC and then push to C3 in one day, and all the way to the summit on the following morning.” In a report on Sunday, Martin suggested they could set off from BC tomorrow, hoping to top-out Wednesday.

As for other teams, Horia Colibasanu is growing more and more impatient each day. “Soon I will have read all the books, I am restless here,” he reported. “We might have a weather window opening by the 24th, but forecasts are changing every day.”

According to original plans, Oh Eun Sun was eyeing a summit push by next weekend. She will be escorted by two KBS cameramen, who have previously filmed 14x8000er summiteer Um Hong-Gil.

Iranian Ehsan Partovi-nia is considering different options. “I’ve been offered to join the Korean and the Spanish teams at summit push time – I have not made up my mind yet,” he told IMZ News.

Injured Xavi Arias recovering in BC

“The Himalayas are not always great – sometimes you just wonder what you are supposed to be doing there,” Xavi Arias reflected. Hit by a serac falling while resting in C3 Friday, he is now being taken care of by Docs Morandeira and Nerin.

“We were melting snow in the tent when we heard an avalanche in the distance – like so many others every day. It’s just that this one was coming closer, and closer… until we popped our heads out to see huge blocks of ice rolling down among us: one in front, one behind, one hitting our tent, cries from other climbers nearby… Believe me, you don´t want to live such an experience.”

“After all passed, some silent moments followed. Then we started crying to each other:
Are you OK?
I told you this was NOT a good place to pitch the tents!

“Bruised and tentless at 6:00pm, we returned for the night back to C2. It may seem bad luck, but I am convinced I’ve been extremely lucky… I am alive and with only some pain after an avalanche on Annapurna,” Xavi added. “We are now recovering in BC and taken care by Drs. Morandeira and Nerin. We’ll need at least three days to feel completely well. Then – time will tell.”

* Related Links :

Annapurna 2010 wrap-up: more climbers arrive in BC – no cake on Pumori.

Annapurna 2010 heads-up: Ferran Latorre evacuated, new additions.

Himalaya wrap-up: 2010 spring season kick off – ready, set, Action on Annapurna!

Annapurna 2010 heat is on: new names and dry conditions expected in peak’s most exciting season yet.

Links to Annapurna 2010 teams:
Edurne Pasaban’s team
Ferran Latorre
Oh Eun-Sun
Kinga Baranowska
Nick Rice
Carlos Pauner
Joao Garcia
Xavi Arias
Juanito Oiarzabal
Horia Colibasanu
Peter Hamor
Park Young-Seok

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

* Read these stories – and more! – at

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One Response

  1. she should also get the prize as the most selfish, ice hearted, evil bitch, as she refused to help Calafat get dow the summit. He died today. Congratulations evil bitch.

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