A Sherpa crew topped-out Everest last week along with Himex guide Adrian Ballinger who decided to join the push after bolting parts of the route. Peak Freaks member Lucille de Beaudrap reportedly summitted later with Domhnall O’Doughartaigh and two Sherpa. A Russian Lhotse summit push reportedly resulted in an accident but details are unclear. A forecasted weather window might kick off summit attempts on Shisha Pangma and new pushes on Everest this week.
Lhotse The large Russian team led by Alexey Bolotov began the summit bid late last week. Fatalities have been reported but are yet to be confirmed. The Kazakhs recovered the remains of their mate Serguey Samoilov, perished on the mountain last year. A decision is yet to be made on whether to bury the body in C2 or transport it down to BC.
Makalu After setting up C2 on the SE ridge, four members in the British Armed Forces expedition walked American Chris Warner, ill with serious respiratory problems, down to BC. The Ukrainians have reached the West Ridge and set C4.
Manaslu The expected weather window didn´t last for Carlos Soria and team on Manaslu – they reached C3 in a snowstorm and had to pitch their tent on unstable ice. They retreated back to BC and called the expedition off. Oscar Cadiach will stay and hope for another chance, possibly joining other teams.
Shisha Pangma “The risk/reward balance is wrong, and funnily for the first time in my life I feel afraid of dying,” Mark Hose wrapped his Shisha experience. Since the increased check of true summits, Shisha Pangma has become a tough nut to crack most climbers agree. Still, summit pushes are on this week. Edurne Pasaban and Mario Panzeri teams chose Wednesday as departure day, hoping to reach Shisha Pangma main summit on Sunday. “Weather conditions may also be OK on Monday,” Meteorologist Vitor Baia told Edurne. “It will provide good conditions for descent or an extra summit day if needed.”
Annapurna: Iranian Ehsan Partovi-Nia climbed to C2 on Annapurna’s north side on Saturday to check conditions on the route to C3. An Italian climber had a minor accident on Wednesday, Ehsan said, while a Japanese expedition has left for R&R in Pokhara after a few attempts to reach C3.
Ama Dablam French Philippe Gatta summited Ama Dablam via the SW ridge in rough conditions. With only 6 people on the mountain, Philippe climbed on his own from 6350m after his partner Jean-Marc Wojcik turned back.
Baruntse “I’m an underdog, a guy from Tennessee that comes to the Himalayas every year and pioneers something to no fanfare or avail,” a frustrated Ben Clark reported from Baruntse BC on Monday after breaking his ankle in a fall. “Finally, after all I have learned and taken from these mountains… they have given me something that I can’t ever forget; real pain, real suffering and real luck. The depth of true loss that comes with that is irreplaceable, (massive monetary investment, time and health) a new low that can only go up from here!”
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Ama Dablam, Annapurna, Baruntse, Climbers, Everest, Expedition, Himalaya, Himex guide, Lhotse, Makalu, Manaslu, Nepal, Sherpa, Shisha Pangma, Travel, Week-In-Review |