Karakoram Summer 2010 expeditions.
Updated: June 14, 2010
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes
K2 double headers
FTA for K2/Broad Peak
Field Touring Alpine has a 14 member team (including guides Fabrizio Zangrilli and Chris Szymiec) for BP, with 8 of them continuing on to K2 for our 3rd effort on the mountain.
K2 team will climb via the cesen route. According to Szymiec, this is a non-guided trip for experienced climbers. All members have summited at least one 8000er in the past.
Mike Horn – Pangaea expedition
Swizerland resident Mike Horn will lead a large, multinational team of youngsters along the Baltoro; he also has a climbing permit for both K2 and Broad Peak, together with another climber.
Polish Broad Peak & K2 expedition
Boguslaw Ogrrodnik will lead this 9-member team on K2 & BP.
Bulgarian Broad Peak & K2 expedition
Petar Georgiev is appointed leader of a 19 member team aiming for the BP+K2 double header.
K2 (8611)Fredrik Ericsson back for a K2 ski-descent
Hoping to become the first person to ski the worlds three highest mountains, Swedish ski mountaineer Fredrik Ericsson is now returning to K2, teaming up with American alpine journalist Trey Cook.
Ericsson attempted to climb and ski K2 last year – the expedition came to a sad end when his mate Michele Fait fell to his death while skiing down from C2 on the Cesen route – the same line Ericsson plans to climb.
Fredrik Ericsson has completed ski descents on Peak Somoni, Shisha Pangma, Gasherbrum 2 and Dhaulagiri.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner’s ultimate No-O2 8000er
After summitting Everest in spring this year, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner will go for K2, hoping to become the first female to complete the 14x8000er quest without supplementary O2.
S. Korean K2 Expedition
Cha Moung Kwan is the leader of a S. Korean expedition on K2
Sharing FTA’s permit and returning to high altitude is multiple Everest summiter, guide and Nangpa La hero American Luis Benitez, leading a small but strong K2 team of three other climbers.
Another multiple Everest summiteer, American guide Georghe Dijmarescu is returning to K2 as a leader of an US/Europe expedition.
Italian K2 expedition
Giuseppe Pompili (leader), Adriano Dal Cin and Sergio Valentinie will try the Abruzzi Spur w/o O2 in late july, after a period of acclimatization at the Deosai plains. Logidtically an independent team, they are however sharing climbing permit with George Dijmarescu.
EV K2 CNR “Keep Baltoro/K2 clean” expedition
An Italian team by EV KK2 CNR, collaborating with several organizations in Pakistan plus the country’s Alpine Club, will launch two clean-up expeditions: one along the Baltoro valley and another to K2’s high camps where they hope to retrieve solid waste.
Broad Peak (8047)
Basque BAT team for Broad Peak’s three summits traverse
panish 14x8000er climber Alberto Iurrategi is teaming up with regular mates Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza to repeat a feat done just once before: the complete traverse of Broad Peak’s three summits. The climb will go in alpine style.
Alberto & Co. are sharing permit with some other climbers.
Slovak Martin Gablik will attempt Broad Peak with four climbing mates.
Aleksander Gamme and three others comprise this expedition.
Nanga Parbat (8125)
Polish Winter Himalaism 2010-2015 Expedition
winter pioneer Artur Hajzer is leading 11 mates on Nanga Parbat (mostly rookies on their first Himalayan experience, scorted by seasoned veterans). First to reach the mountain this year and climbing the Kinshoffer route on the Diamir side, the Poles hope the fast start will permit to attempt a hat-trick by climbing both Gasherbrums next.
Sharing the permit are Italians P.Michalski and S.L.Terra plus, separately, an American lady.
Polish Pawlowski Nanga Parbat Expedition
Korea Nanga Parbat Expedition
Hong Bo Seong and four other South Korean climbers will be on Nanga too.
Gasherbrum multiple climbs
GI+BP: Brazilian 10 Anos do Brasil no K2 expedition
10 years after summiting K2, Waldemar Niclevicz is back to Pakistan for an attempt on both Hidden Peak and Broad Peak. He is teaming up with regular mate Irivan Burda.
Don Bowie back to GIII+GIV
After a failed attempt due to bad conditionas last year, don Bowie is back to GIII and GIV together with another climbing mate. www.calpinist.com
Slovenian Gasherbrumx4 expedition
Slovenian Miha Habjan and team want all four: GI, II, V and VI.
GI (8068) & GII (8035) doubles
Altitude Junkies’ Phil Crampton is leading an international team on both Gasherbrums.
Double-header climbers are Phil Crampton (UK/USA), Max Kausch (Argentina/UK), Arian Lemal (France), Samuli Mansikka (Finland), and Fredrik Strang (Sweden). Roo Dix (UK), Tachi Pesando (Italy) and Wally Reisinger (Canada) will go just for Gasherbrum II. www.altitudejunkies.com
Latin American GI+GII expedition
After joining up forces with Brazilians Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Burda on GI, Argentinean Hernan wilke and wife Monica (from Colombia), Colombians Lucho and Maria; plus Dunaj and Rodrigo from Guatemala will attempt GII.
French Ludovic is climbing GI and GII. His team includes Marc Dreyer, Jean-Marc Wojcik, Yves Blazer (on his 3rd 8000er), Christian Maurel and Pemba Sherpa from Katmandu.
Kazakh star-climber denis Urubko has applied for a climbing permit on both Gasherbrums.
Swiss GI+GII expedition
Swiss Rolf Traschsel and four other climbers will be also there for a GI+GII double-header.
Czech GI+GII Expedition
Radek Jaros is leading an 8-member team.
Jacek is back for a double GI+GII attempt, appointed as leader of an 8-member team.
Italian GI north side Expedition
A team of all-star Italian climbers led by Agostino da Polenza will attempt Gasherbrum I north face, in Chinese territory.
Italian Nicola is giving GII a shot.
Amical Alpin is launching a team led by Rainer Pircher.
Spires & Lower peaks
Gasherbrum V (6980)
Korean GV expedition
Kim Hung Il is giving GV a shot.
Kanjut Sar (7790)
US/Russian International expedition
Lev Loffe is appointed leader of a 13-member international team attempting Kanjut SAR (7,790 m) located in the Hispar Muztagh range (northern Pakistan).
David Falt Latok-I Expedition
Japanese Latok-I Expedition
Piolet dOr 2009 winner Yusuke Sato is leading a small party from Japan on latok I.
Lithuanian Spantik Expedition
Lithuanian Saulius Rundickas is the head of a 5-member team on Spantik.
Tahu Ratum (6651)
Brit Luke Hunt and two climbing mates are climbing Tahu Ratum peak.
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