Two years passed since the accidents new teams are assembled at the foot of K2. A huge campaign for “No way down – life and death on K2” by New York Times journalist Graham Bowley is currently running at ExplorersWeb. Bowley has done extensive research for the book, travelling around the world to meet with the survivors. In addition to the advertisement, find re-runs of the most notable stories compiled by ExWeb during and after the events.
In other news: Unstable weather and high winds have been punishing Karakoram with few summits but much excitement on the wild side of G1 where three Italians, running into red tape, chose to drop the camels and journey Shipton style. Around the world, lots is ongoing on land and sea and ExWeb ran some great interviews in addition to the regular updates.
On Nanga Parbat Himalaya winter veteran Marcin Kaczkan delivered another Polish summit July 2nd. More climbers summited Nanga on Saturday: Iranian Azim Gheychi-Saz with two Nepalese climbers and the three Koreans Sung-Ho Suh, Chang-Ho Kim and Jin-Tae Kim (no 02/no sherpas). Mingma became the first Sherpa to summit 12 different main 8000ers; Korean Kim Chang-Ho only the second mountaineer after Messner to summit Nanga from both sides.
Broad Peak: High winds force Basques back Alberto, Juan and Mikel topped out Broad Peak north summit Friday but strong winds prevented the traverse. “This was just a starter,” 14x8000er summiteer Iñurrategi said. “We’re definitely going for a second round as soon as conditions improve.” Meanwhile, Austrian Gerfried Göschl sent word with more details about the route.
Gasherbrum V: “K2 Extreme Expedition” members Hyoung-Il Kim, Sang-Woo Lee and Ji-Myuong Jang tried to summit G5 in alpine style but were forced back at about 6,550 meters.
GI north side Shipton style A Chinese liaison officer – contrary to permits issued by both Chinese military and mountaineering authorities – halted the Italians at the head of Gasherbrum North Glacier, claiming ‘restricted area’,” Montagna.org reported. Losing their porters and camels Daniele Bernasconi, Hervé Barmasse and Mario Panzeri decided to carry their own supplies and attempt the climb – up a face they’ve never seen before – without a Base Camp.
Gasherbrum I & II teams wait for more favorable weather. Czechs Radek, Libor and Petr seemingly reached C3 and beyond before retreating. Many large crevasses have reportedly opened in just the last week and most climbers are roping up in teams of two or three. A serac dropping from GVI caused an avalanche affecting the GI/GII joint route to C1. Bowie and Bolotov announced 7500m reached on the acclimatization round.
K2 The route to C3 is about to be fixed by Giuseppe Pompili’s team and Iranian Leila’s 2 porters. Fredrik Ericsson skied down from camp 3. Gerlinde and Ralf have slept at about 7000 meters on Cesen and hope to reach C3 before the13th.
Facts or Yellow? A recent report in a British paper portraits Alison Heargraves, perished in a storm on K2, as victim of domestic violence, quoting unpublished diary entries.
Concordia: Keep Baltoro Clean team 4000 kg of waste has been collected from Concordia by the “Keep Baltoro Clean” expedition, launched by the EvK2Cnr Committee. In addition, the crew installed 8 eco toilets at Concordia Circus and transported eighty drums of human waste downhill to Paiju to be burned in an earth incinerator. The work will continue until end August.
ExWeb Interview with Everest teen star Jordan Romero Thirteen-year old Jordan Romero became the youngest person to summit Everest on May 22nd. His success inspired and provoked, spurred regulators in Communist China and galvanized teens to strap on their crampons. ExWeb’s contributors Morgan (9) and Amanda caught up with this mountaineering’s wild child.
Daniela Teixeira fills a Blank on the Map: Garhwal Himalaya Free Spirit expedition debrief Fighting crowds on GII for the past two seasons; this spring Portuguese Daniela Teixeira felt she needed a change and rerouted to India’s Garhwal. Check her debrief at ExWeb.
Ski Mountaineering film Premier – Australis: An Antarctic Ski Odyssey During Nov-Dec 2009 Chris Davenport, Stian Hagen, and Andrea Binning went on an ski mountaineering odyssey to the Antarctic Peninsula in search of the ski lines of their dreams, producing a film onboard their support vessels that has now been released.
Doug Stoup about ski mountaineering on Svalbard and glacier travel skills course Svalbard is one of the most remarkable ski destinations he has ever been to, Doug Stoup told ExplorersWeb. Now IceAxe are offering other adventurers to go to Svalbard; as well as to enrol in a skills course in glacier travel.
Everest Skydive at Shyangboche, Khumbu Himal During Everest Skydive 2010 solo and tandem jumps were performed as high as 29,500 ft at Shyangboche drop zone (12,350 ft). Skydivers from New Zealand, UK, Nepal, USA, Australia and France participated. Check the debrief report at ExWeb.
North Pole Yacht Race: Russians in Murmansk Russian Peter 1 has spent time in Murmansk to do final preparations and the necessary paperwork before setting of into the North East Passage (NEP). Børge Ousland is right on their tail waiting for the wind to turn.
The Finns finished near Qaanaaq; and the McNair-Landry kids’ new expedition Vesa Luomala and Toni Vaartimo ended their Narsaq to Qaanaaq kite ski expedition in the middle of meltwater and crevasses near Qaanaaq. Eric McNair-Landry, who recently got off the Greenland ice after setting a new kite distance world record, is in Mongolia busy with last preparations for a new expedition.
ExWeb interview with Bastien Demange: To cross Canada by canoe French Bastien Demange cycled 4200km through Siberia in winter. His next project is to cross Canada by canoe; a distance of 7000km from a start between Ottawa and Pembroke to the Arctic coast. In his chat with ExWeb, Bastien said he’s searching for a teammate.
Around-the-world cycling record attempt Brit Alan Bate gave a debrief of his cycling through Australia, New Zealand, the USA, Canada, Uruguay, Argentina and Brazil, telling about cold weather and tough winds, inconsiderate truck drivers, and the challenge of cycling solo in the USA in a “threatening atmosphere”.
Heads up: Louis-Philippe Loncke solo Iceland crossing The Belgian adventurer who crossed the Simpson Desert is back to try and become the first person to walk between the 2 extreme latitudes of Iceland’s main island without resupplies; in summer and winter.
Polar bear country: Kayaking round Svalbard Two young Norwegians pushed of from Longyearbyen on Svalbard July 5th in an attempt to be the first to circumnavigate Svalbard during a 2-3 month long kayak expedition.
Mongolian trek update: Entering the beginning of the Altai Mountains His ankle swollen and toe nails falling off; Ripley Davenport left the “tranquil and surreal” terrain of the Gobi Desert and entered the beginning of the Altai Mountains for a terrain changed for the worst, he reported.
Trans-Kalahari adventure run in Botswana During August and September Jukka Viljanen, Kirsi Montonen (both from Finland) and Greg Maud (from South Africa) will run 1000 km across the Kalahari in Botswana, Southern Africa in aid one of Botswana’s most endangered animals, the cheetah.
Chris Rhys Howarth to run across Kenya in aid of street children In July British ultra runner Chris Rhys Howarth will attempt to run 1,100 miles (1,770 km) across Kenya to help some of Kenya’s poorest children living on the streets. He will run through 12 major towns and cities over a period of seven weeks.
Heads up: Antony Jinman and graduate students to Baffin Island In the Arctic Spring Antony Jinman skied from Canada to the North Pole. Next month he is returning to Baffin Island to explore the Penny Ice Cap and surrounding glaciated valleys during a 4 week project with 8 other graduate students and trainee teachers in connection with his outreach work on Baffin Island.
Leader needed for 2010 Skeleton Coast expedition Do you have extensive expedition leadership experience, knowledge of African wildlife and are you capable of handling a firearm? A British group planning to walk 400km along the Namibian Skeleton Coast in Oct/Nov are looking for a new leader.
Teen sailing update: Abby’s own story Abby Sunderland (16) held a press conference at the Marina del Rey Hotel in Los Angeles describing exactly happened to her in southern Indian Ocean where she lost the mast on Wild Eyes, an Open 40, June 10th.
Never Ending Voyage: Deadliest Catch area The never ending sailor Henk de Velde is on his way to one of the most remote areas in the world. In the next couple of days he will reach the Aleutian islands in the Bering Strait. Henk de Velde started Part 3 of his Never Ending Voyage – A Journey to the Edges of the World.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Week-In-Review | Tagged: Artur Hajzer, Climbers, Denali, Expedition, Gasherbrum, Karakoram, Nanga Parbat, Pakistan, polski himalaizm zimowy, PZA, Travel, winter expedition |