Another Pakistan climbing summer is coming to its finale. While further details are expected on some summit claims, which are certified by the ACP, the climbing community is shocked after finding out about Cristian Stangle’s K2 summit charade; some cool new routes on the lesser peaks have contributed to at least putting a brighter end to the season.
Meanwhile, the emergency situation in Pakistan is still far from being over. With millions made homeless and disease spreading, it is going to be a long, bitter winter ahead.
ACP’s preliminary summit list
“This year is also a bleak season for the tourism industry,” a preliminary report by The Alpine Club of Pakistan reads. “32 expedition [teams] applied for their mountaineering expedition permits, however, five of them [later] asked for a cancellation. 140 groups applied for trekking permits in different valleys of Pakistan.”
An attached list of summiteers include nine people on top of Nanga Parbat, 12 on GI, 24 on GII and ten on Broad Peak.
K2 claims two casualties, Petar Unzhiev and Fredrik Ericsson, but no summits for the second year in a row.
Editor’s note: Christian Stangl was denied a summit certificate by the Alpine Club of Pakistan weeks ago. This was after other climbers who were sharing BC with him reported that his claim was unfounded. Stangl himself finally confessed to the media that it was a fake (check previous story).
Broad peak dark horses?
ExplorersWeb Pakistan correspondent Karrar Haidri is currently searching for further details concerning summit claims, particularly on Broad Peak with a larger number of successes than previous team reports have shown. Some BP teams may have passed unnoticed to ExplorersWeb until now though.
Such is the case of Anglo-Argentinean Broad Peak Expedition, comprising of Argentinean Nacho Lucero and Brit Andy. “We shared a permit with the Norwegian-Russian Missing Link Expedition team, even though we arrived at BC later than them,” Andy noted.
“There were only two of us and we climbed without HAPs or supplemental oxygen. We established camps up to 7,000 meters on the mountain and were ready to launch a summit bid, unfortunately the extreme weather did not allow us to go any further. Just getting back from BC to Skardu was an adventure in itself and we ended up being airlifted in a C-130 (Kinga Baranowska was also there) from Skardu to ISB.”
New route on spires
August also brought some new routes on Pakistan’s 6000 and 7000ers:
Oleg Koltunov and Vjacheslav Ivanov fron Saint Petersburg climbed the new route on the West Face.
Italians Daniele Nardi and Lorenzo Angelozzi climbed a 6,337-meter virgin peak in Hushe Valley on August 19.
Spaniards Miriam Marco, María Asunción Yanguas, Maialen Ojer and Maider Fraile, members of their national female climbing team, bagged firsts on two Karakoram spires of 5,860 and 5,610 meters each.
Pakistan floods update
Meanwhile, media attention fades from flood-stricken Pakistan. The situation is far from improving though, and the approaching winter months will make things even worse for the millions left homeless and unassisted.
“With millions of homes and livelihoods in flood-hit Pakistan washed away, disease spreading in affected areas and large swathes of the country still under water, the top United Nations relief chief Valerie Amos has warned that the emergency there is not yet over,” the UN reported yesterday. “This disaster–already one of the largest the world has seen–is still getting bigger,” Amos stated. She is currently on a three-day visit in Sindhi (southern Pakistan), where 6.9 million people have been affected by the heavy floods.
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Filed under: Climbers, Expedition, Himalayas, Karakoram, Travel | Tagged: Broad Peak, Climbers, Everest, Expedition, Himalaya, K2, mountaineering, Nanga Parbat, Pakistan, Pakistan's 2010 season, Travel |