Himalaya Autumn 2010 expeditions.
Updated: Sep 13, 2010
Note: List is preliminary and subject to changes
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Alberto Zerain to solo the Hornbein Couloir
After fasts ascents on K2 and Kangchenjunga, Basque Alberto Zerain is tackling Everest north face’s Supercouloir solo. A small team will acclimatize with him up the peak’s normal route in Tibet and then remain in BC to film Alberto’s ascent from that point.
Mountain guides from Courmayer (Aosta valley) Edmond Joyeusaz, Gianluca Marra and Francesco Civra Dano will set off towards Tibet next week. After reaching the summit in alpine style, the men also hope to descent on skis.
Japanese Nbukazu Kuriki also hopes to get the second solo ascent of Everest (Zerain permitting) at only 28. He will be accomapnied only by a Sherpa who will stop in BC. It is yet unclear though, whether Kuriki will use supplementary O2 or not. This is Nobukazus second attempt on Everest, after a first shot from the north side in spring last year. Its also the last stage in his 7Summit quest.
Polar adventurer, musher and educator Eric Larsen, from Minnesota hopes to raise attention towards polar areas by trying to reach Everest summit, the North Pole and South Pole in a continuous 365-day period.
Starting in November, 2009, he skied 750-mile to the geographic South Pole, arriving on January 2, 2010. Two months later he set off from northern Ellesmere Island as member in an international team who reached the North Pole 51 days later. Next stop is Everest.
Eric will climb O2-supported, together with a small team of Sherpas on the mountain’s south side.
2004’s Magic Line summiteer Jordi Corominas and mate Jordi Tosas are back with a grand Himalayan climbing plan: Following their usual way of light style and shoe-string bugdet, they’ll attempt a new variation route on the mighty South face of Lhotse, in alpine style. Young gun Israel Blanco will join the team up to BC and, if feeling well, on the climb too.
Jae-Soo Kim and Byung-Woo Son are planning to climb Annapurna and/or Cho Oyu in fall, 2010.
Kim was Go Mi-sun’s climbing partner on all her 12 8000ers until she perished on Nanga Parbat in summer, 2009.
Veterans Carlos Soria and Juanito Oiarzabal and sharing permit and surely collaborating on the Japanese route to Manaslu top.
Carlos’ previous attempt on the mountain in spring this year was thwarted by loads of snow and storms. Juanito, hoping to complete the 14x8000ers twice, bagged his 24th 8000+m summit in spring on Annapurna, but was airlifted back from C4 in an epic chopper rescue after his mate Tolo Calafat died on the mountain. Sharing permit as well is Sechu (Sergio) Lopez.
The two climbers are also sharing permit with fellow Spaniards Juanito, Carlos and Sechu, although climbing at their pace.
Already recovered after being hit by an avalanche on Annapurna in spring, Catalan Xavi Arias is now giving a shot to Malaslu.
A team of 4 french canadian from the Quebec province, including brothers Frederic Bleau and Francois Xavier Bleau with Pierre Boutin and Mathieu Morin, will attempt Manaslu via its normal route, w/o supplementary O2.
Mexican 5x8000er summiteer Badia Bonilla and husband Mauricio Lopez (4x8000ers topped-out) are back to Manaslu after a failed attempt last year.
fresh from Everest in spring and the Gasherbrums in summer, Phil Crampton is leading a fully-serviced expedition on Manaslu via the NE ridge. The team will be limited to 7 clients and provides a 1:2 Sherpa to climber ratio.
The NZ-based outfitter is launching a fully-supplied expedition on Manaslu, starting on Aug 29th.
8-times Everest summiteer Kenton Cool will lead a team on Manaslu, which the company describes as a perfect 1st 8000er and warm-up before Everest.
American/Brazilian Cleo Weidlich is the appointed leader of an international team outfitted by Asian Trekking and also including Hungarians Eva Baranyl and Zoltan Janosi; Chinese Sumiyo Tsuzuki, Kristine Kravcova and Chi Sing Tsang; and Latvians Voldemars Sprozs, Viesturs Varpins and Atis Plakans.
The Swiss outfitter is also launching a commercial team on Manaslu.
Himalayan Experience announces a Manaslu expedition to take place from Aug 27th to Oct 10th.
On emore year, Dan Mazur will lead a team on Shisha’s north side normal route.
Romanian Alex GAvan intends to climb Shisha Pangma in fall this year; on his latest update, he was looking for climbing mates to share permit with.
Two years after losing his mate Karl Unterkircher on Nanga Parbat Rakhiot face, Italian Walter Nones is finally returning to high altitude climbing. The goal is Cho Oyu, via a new route on the mountains west flank. Also in the team are Giovanni Macaluso and Manuel Nocker
Italian 14x8000er summiteer Silvio Mondinelli is back to Cho Oyu, with four other climbers.
Five members of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires departed towards Cho Oyu on Aug24: Adrian Jorge Sanchez, Marcelo Julin Hernandez, Juliana Eguia, Carlos Ezquiel Dorsa and Oscar Alfredo Bellini.
The US-based outfitter is launching a fully-supported expedition on Cho Oyu, kicking off on August 28th.
IMG Cho Oyu post-monsoon expedition kicks off on August 22dn..
The NZ-based outfitter is launching an expedition on Cho Oyu with clients on supplementary O2.
Ragna Krckels and Stefan Fei are leading Amical’s expedition on Cho Oyu.
Karakoram specialists with a recent BP+K2 attempt, FTA is also launching a fully-serviced expedition on Cho Oyu.
Dan Mazur (also heading a team on Shisha) and Max Kausch are the appointed leaders of the upcoming expedition.
The UK-based outfitter is launching a team led by Robert Anderson, Matthew Parkes & Tomaz Jakofcic .
KAri Kobler’s outfitter has announced a Cho Oyu expedition kicking off Aug 28th.
Jae-Soo Kim and Byung-Woo Son may attempt Cho Oyu in addition to/instead of Annapurna.
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