Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011
new winter expedition – Simone Moro and Denis Urubko.
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko are attempting G2, while Artur Hajzer will lead a team of fellow Polish climbers on Broad Peak.
Italian Simone bagged the first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma together with the late Piotr Morawski (from Poland) back in 2005. In February 2009 he repeated the feat on Makalu, together with his current mate Denis Urubko. Kazakh Denis completed the 14x8000er climb (no O2) in 2009, including some new routes and light ascents in the achievement.
Atheletes: Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, Cory Richards.
Elevation: 8,035 m (26,362 ft).
Ranked: 13th (5th in Pakistan).
Location: Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan) / Xinjiang (China).
Coordinates: 35°45′N 76°39′E.
First ascent: July 8, 1956 by an Austrian team.
Gasherbrum II (also known as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located in the Gilgit Baltistan province, Pakistan near the border to China. Gasherbrum II is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya.
The standard route is via the SW ridge.
Gasherbrum II was first climbed on July 8, 1956 by Fritz Moravec, Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart of an Austrian expedition.
GII Time Line:
- 1956 First ascent
- 1975 Second ascent by a French group, 19 years after the first ascent. This expedition also saw the first death on the Gasherbrum. Three other expeditions summit including a Polish women’s team headed by Wanda Rutkiewicz.
- 1979 A Chilean and a German expedition succeed in the sixth and seventh ascents. The Chilean was the first latinamerican ascent to an eight-thousander
- 1982 Reinhold Messner reaches the top with two Pakistanis, Nazir Sabir and Sher Khan.
- 1983 Jerzy Kukuczka with Wojciech Kurtyka eastern ridge ascent, new route. Alpine style ascent without the aid of oxygen.
- 1984 Messner and Hans Kammerlander traverse Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II without returning to base camp in between.
- 1984 First descent by ski by team CAF Besançon (France) lead by Daniel Croisot, summit by Wim Pasquier and Patrice Bournat, ski from the summit, joined by Dr Dominique Dock from 7800m, totally skied the face down to base-camp set at 5200m. 1 month after meeting with Messner and Kammerlander, returning from their 2 summits.
- 2005 ? number ski descent by Jørgen Aamot (Norway) and Frederik Ericsson (Sweden)
- 2007 Three Italians, Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi and Michele Compagnoni, reach the top opening a new way on the north face, in alpine style.
Denis Urubko: the Kazak alpinist has been sharing his passion for altitude with his friend Simone Moro for 11 years. They reached together the summit of Makalu on February 9, 2009.
Cory Richards: American alpinist and photographer, he will rope up with Simone and Denis in their winter challenge.
Simone and his expedition partners will leave right after Christmas 2010, at the beginning of winter, to try and achieve the first winter ascent of an 8,000 meters peak in Karakoram.
Of the 14 8,000meters mountains, only 9 have been climbed in winter, all of them in the Himalayas of Nepal and Tibet. There are 5 eight thousanders remaining to be climbed, and they all are in Pakistan, in the Karakoram mountains.
Since 1987 there have been 16 winter expeditions in Pakistan, none of them has been successful. 23 years after the first winter expedition in Karakoram, and 25 years after the first summer GI-GII traverse from Messner and Kammerlander, Simone decided to pursue his winter dream in the Gasherbrum massif.
With his 10 winter expeditions experience, after the first winter ascents of Shishapangma (2005) and Makalu (2009) Simone has decided to pursue this new winter dream with two trusted partners: Denis Urubko and Cory Richards.
No sherpas, no high altitude porters, no oxygen.
With a light an hopefully fast style, the alpinists will try to take advantage of the rare good weather windows to reach the 8035 meters of Gasherbrum II.
Simone knows from his past expeditions to Broad Peak in 2007 and 2008 how winter is like in Karakoram. The extreme cold and strong winds can force the alpinists inside the tents for weeks. Reaching base camp is already a challenge as it is impossible to recruit local porters. The only solution is to reach the 5,000 meters of BC with a military helicopter.
After the helicopter will have took off, the alpinists will be on their own for two long, cold months.
The alpinists will be self sufficient for two months, their fuel and food supplies have been calculated carefully, as the maximum load of the helicopter at that altitude is limited.
Their link with the outside world will be a voice and data satellite connection. They’ll be able to update a blog to show life at base camp and the preparation for the summit.
Quick Facts about Simone
The G2 winter expedition is Simone’s 11th winter expedition
|Aconcagua||1993||Summit||Lorenzo Mazzoleni||Third winter ascent|
|Cerro Mirador||1993||Summit||Lorenzo Mazzoleni||First winter ascent|
|Annapurna||1997||A. Boukreev & D. Sobolev||Anatoli Boukreev dies in an avalanche|
|Marble Wall||2001||Summit||Denis Urubko & Maksut Jumayev||First winter ascent|
|Shisha Pangma||2004||7750mt.||Piotr Morawski|
|Shisha Pangma||2005||Summit||Piotr Morawski||First winter ascent|
|Cerro Torre||2005||Up to the Mocho||Bruno Tassi|
|Broad Peak||2007||7000mt.||Shaheen Baig|
|Broad Peak||2008||7840mt.||S. Baig and Q. Ali|
|Makalu||2009||Summit||Denis Urubko||First winter ascent|
* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/
* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone
* Source : – www.thenorthfacejournal.com
* Previous story :
* Related Links :
– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523
* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.