(By: Angela Benavides Edited by: Brooke Meetze)
Before tackling winter GII, Simone, Denis and Cory are climbing Khosar Kang for acclimatization. In their latest report on Friday, the trio was in C1 preparing to attempt the 6,400-meter tall summit on the following day.
The team managed to reach only Skardu last week. Previously, flights had been canceled due to extreme cold and snow covering the landing airstrip.
Prior to departure though, Simone wanted to share some thoughts with ExplorersWeb’s mountain editor Angela Benavides.
ExWeb: Are you aware of the last-minute changes in Gerfried Göschl’s GI team? Has your GII team suffered any additions or cancellations as well?
Simone: Our team is comprised of three climbers (all sponsored by The North Face) from the beginning, so we want it to remain that way. Actually, I received several requests from climbers wishing to join the team but I refused because I wanted a very small party, climbing in light style. I am not interested on being first, but I want to “win” sticking to my style, as I have done in all my winter summits.
ExWeb:It seems that your (and the Poles’) winter climbs have motivated other teams to attempt further firsts — what are your thoughts about it?
Simone: If I did, I’m really happy to have motivated the climbing community to return to that kind of Alpinism. This year we will make a nice crowd in the Karakoram 🙂
ExWeb: Which route will you guys follow on GII?
Simone: Originally, we will climb the classic ’56 Austrian route. However, we’re open to other options if conditions suggest it.
Italian Simone Moro, Kazakh Denis Urubko and Canadian Cory Richards have been attempting winter GII since December 21, 2010.
Italian Simone bagged his first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma together with the late Piotr Morawski (Poland) back in 2005. In February 2009, he repeated the feat on Makalu, together with his current mate Denis Urubko. Also in 2009, Denis Urubko completed the 14x8000er climb without supplemental oxygen, including the forging of new routes and light ascents during his achievement.
Simone has led ten winter expeditions in different countries — all of them within the technical calendar winter season.
In 2010, Canadian Cory Richards ascended the Central Pillar of the south face of Taboche (6,495m) in true winter weather, teaming up with American Renan Ozturk. Twelve months before, Richards had forged a new route with Ines Papert on the north face of Kwangde Shar (6,093m). As for 8000er experiences, Cory led Tamara Lunger to the summit of Lhotse last spring.
* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/
* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone
* Previous story :
* Related Links :
– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523
* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan
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