Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII – Simone and Denis on summit push?

Simone and Denis are halfway to C2 on GII and going up. Broad Peak’s team leader Artur Hajzer believes they might try to push for the top. The Poles in turn have fixed the route to C2 on Broad Peak. GI climbers are in Skardu and it seems that Nanga Parbat will remain unclimbed; the young Polish climbers called their bid off and retreated to Islamabad.

GII: to the top?

The first attempt to reach C2 last week took a lot of hard work in fresh snow. “We needed eight hours to cover just 250 vertical meters,” Simone reported from BC on Friday. But now the climbers are back up.
“We’re in C1 preparing to sleep,” Denis Urubko texted to Lena Laletina of RussianClimb yesterday. Anorther SMS this evening, Pakistan time, read “We are half way to C2 on the ridge. Hard, cold, windy. We have already eaten. we are going to continue tomorrow.”

Broad Peak team leader Artur Hajzer (apparently in radio contact with GII BC) said yesterday that “Simone and Denis may conquer GII any second now.”

Broad Peak

Conditions are not bad considering it’s winter, said Hajzer about his team’s situation. It’s -32ºC in BC and about -50º at 8,000 m; with virtually no wind in BC. The second group of climbers, airlifted to BC Thursday, had to cope with some health problems due to lack of acclimatization and frozen sleeping bags. “While working to enlarge BC, hands grew numb with cold and fingers went on to the verge of frostbite,” Artur wrote.
The team fixed ropes to C2, where they’ve left a cache of gear and emergency O2.

Hidden Peak (GI)

Louis Rousseau, Gerfried Göschl and Pierre Masson (BC manager) landed in Islamabad on Friday and took off for Skardu the very next day by land due to cancelled flights. Arriving today, Gerfried said they are the first climbing team to undergo the official briefing in Skardu instead of Islamabad. Alex Txikon is expected to arrive in Pakistan today.

Nanga Parbat

Polish climbers Tomasz Mackiewicz and Marek Klonowski called off their attempt on Nanga Parbat’s camp 1 and returned to Islamabad, according to outfitter Adventure Pakistan. A solo Russian climber sharing the same goal retreated from C1 weeks ago.

Links to Karakoram 2011 winter teams:

Broad Peak

Polish Winter Broad Peak team website

GII

TNF journal
Simone Moro blog

GI

Gerfried Göschl
Gerfried’s SPOT tracking

* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/

* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone

* Previous story :

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Teams unite – All Polish climbers on BP, GI climbers enroute.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C1 ready on BP, cache near C1 on GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Polish secret on Nanga, news from GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Broad Peak and GII teams hit BC.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Simone Moro’s latest news and thoughts.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011 – The Beginning.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 11. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Winning teams to join the Karakoram winter games: Poles, Simone & Denis for GII for Broad Peak.

* Related Links :

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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