Simone and Denis are halfway to C2 on GII and going up. Broad Peak’s team leader Artur Hajzer believes they might try to push for the top. The Poles in turn have fixed the route to C2 on Broad Peak. GI climbers are in Skardu and it seems that Nanga Parbat will remain unclimbed; the young Polish climbers called their bid off and retreated to Islamabad.
GII: to the top?
The first attempt to reach C2 last week took a lot of hard work in fresh snow. “We needed eight hours to cover just 250 vertical meters,” Simone reported from BC on Friday. But now the climbers are back up.
“We’re in C1 preparing to sleep,” Denis Urubko texted to Lena Laletina of RussianClimb yesterday. Anorther SMS this evening, Pakistan time, read “We are half way to C2 on the ridge. Hard, cold, windy. We have already eaten. we are going to continue tomorrow.”
Conditions are not bad considering it’s winter, said Hajzer about his team’s situation. It’s -32ºC in BC and about -50º at 8,000 m; with virtually no wind in BC. The second group of climbers, airlifted to BC Thursday, had to cope with some health problems due to lack of acclimatization and frozen sleeping bags. “While working to enlarge BC, hands grew numb with cold and fingers went on to the verge of frostbite,” Artur wrote.
The team fixed ropes to C2, where they’ve left a cache of gear and emergency O2.
Hidden Peak (GI)
Louis Rousseau, Gerfried Göschl and Pierre Masson (BC manager) landed in Islamabad on Friday and took off for Skardu the very next day by land due to cancelled flights. Arriving today, Gerfried said they are the first climbing team to undergo the official briefing in Skardu instead of Islamabad. Alex Txikon is expected to arrive in Pakistan today.
Polish climbers Tomasz Mackiewicz and Marek Klonowski called off their attempt on Nanga Parbat’s camp 1 and returned to Islamabad, according to outfitter Adventure Pakistan. A solo Russian climber sharing the same goal retreated from C1 weeks ago.
Links to Karakoram 2011 winter teams:
* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/
* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone
* Previous story :
* Related Links :
– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523
* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan
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Filed under: Climbers, Karakoram, Simone Moro, Travel, winter expedition | Tagged: Artur Hajzer, Broad Peak, Climbers, Cory Richards, Denis Urubko, Gasherbrum II, Karakoram, Marek Klonowski, Simone Moro, Tomasz Mackiewicz, Travel, winter expedition |