Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII summiteers back in BC, GI team at work on a new route.

(By Angela Benavides) Denis Urubko just checked in from Gasherbrum’s BC. The team is safely back after bagging the first winter 8000er summit in Pakistan – but only by sheer luck, the Kazakh said.

Gerfried, Louis and Alex will set off towards a new route on Hidden Peak’s south face as soon as weather conditions permit.

Winter GII: Alive by miracle

The GII winter pioneers are safe and sound in BC after an extremely tough descent. Crossing the Gasherbrum glacier between C1 and BC alone took them most part of the day. According to the first comments, yesterday was even worse though.

“We’re in BC – all alive and fine – simply luck,” Denis texted his wife minutes ago. However, Urubko’s laconic words barely illustrate what it really took to descend from the summit.

At arrival, Simone described a nightmarish experience to the wide-eyed Gerfried, Louis and Alex.

“They said descending was much worse than the summit climb,” Alex Txikon told Jorge Chueca of Barrabes.com over sat-phone. “Relentless avalanches falling from G5 and G6 came at them in all directions – Simone swears it was only by miracle that none swept them off. They showed us some summit pics in such extreme col conditions that – God – they’re scary!”

Further reports by the climbers themselves, details and images are expected through the weekend – after the men get some well deserved rest.

GI team on a new route on the south side

Meanwhile Gerfried Göschl, Louis Rousseau and Alex Txikon have also made the best of their day. Taking  advantage of slihgtly better conditions today, they set off from BC early this morning and found a line to the base of GI’s south face – the chosen flank to open a new route. “It took us just 3 hours to reach the base of the wall so, since we were strong and had plenty of time, got to work and fixed the first 200 meters towards our planned C1,” Alex was happy to report. The three men then returned to BC, just in time to greet Simone, Denis and Cory.

As for the planned new route, Txikon ponders its relative safety, but also the extra motivation brought by the chance to forge a new line on a Karakoram winter 8000er. “The targeted line is extremely avalanche-prone in summer, but safer this time of the year,” Txikon said yesterday.

“Also, this way we will avoid the dangerous crossing of Gasherbrum glacier (necessary on the way to GI and GII normal routes). We are not going strictly alpine-style, but will try to climb as light and fast as possible,” Alex added. “It’s a lesson we’ve learned from Simone & Co. ”

Team leader gerfried Göschl had been studying GI’s topo for possible new lines, but the final decision has been made public only now.

Links to Karakoram 2011 winter teams:

Broad Peak

Polish Winter Broad Peak team website

GII

TNF journal
Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog

GI

Gerfried Göschl
Gerfried’s SPOT tracking
Louis Rousseau
Alex Txikon

* Simone Moro website: – http://www.simonemoro.com/

* Simone Moro on Facebook: – facebook.com/moro.simone

* Previous story :

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII winter summiteers descending in the storm – stop for the night in C1.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Climbers safely back in C3.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C3 on GII summit push, Thefts in BC, Polish climber to be evacuated.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: GII – Simone and Denis on summit push?

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: Teams unite – All Polish climbers on BP, GI climbers enroute.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011 wrap-up: C1 ready on BP, cache near C1 on GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Polish secret on Nanga, news from GII.

Karakoram Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Broad Peak and GII teams hit BC.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011: Simone Moro’s latest news and thoughts.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011 – The Beginning.

Gasherbrum II Winter Expedition 2010/2011.

Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak 2010/11, part 15. Zimowa wyprawa PZA na Broad Peak 2010/11.

Winning teams to join the Karakoram winter games: Poles, Simone & Denis for GII for Broad Peak.

* Related Links :

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Polskie wyprawy zimowe w Himalaje.

Artur Hajzer: POLSKI HIMALAIZM ZIMOWY – Plan rozwoju.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

– 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 1

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 2

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 3

Polish winter expedition 1980: Everest – part 4

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

gieldanieruchomosci24.com

AddThis Feed Button


Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: