Simone Moro takes us into the world of winter mountaneering. After his first winter ascents of Gasherbrum II he introduces us to his next project: to climb Nanga Parbat with Denis Urubko.
Pakistan wrap-up: details on Nanga Parbat new route attempt. (Posted: Feb 02, 2012 02:46 pm EST)
(Angela Benavides) Brilliant sunshine is treating all climbers to a nice winter break, unfortunately the current window came a bit early for summit pushes. Yesterday Denis spoke of the new route he and Simone hope to do on Nanga Parbat. Messner, who once commenced it, hopes the two will finish it. Nanga Parbat: Denis and Simone for a double-firstAlthough known as the Messner route, the South Tyrolean actually never completed the line that Simone and Denis have deviated to. Should they succeed, they would thus bag a double…
Unfavourable Conditions Stalls Summit Attempt for Moro and Urubko. (Posted: January 31, 2012)
Nanga Parbat base camp 4230m -16 C°
Today was supposed to be the last day of rest and tomorrow the planned departure for Denis and Simone to begin the planned one week stretch of climb to attempt the summit. But as it is ultimately important to have the right weather conditions, the team must now wait a few more days as the forecast for the next days is not favourable.
In a message from base camp, the team said;
“Karl Gabl, our weather guru in Innsbruck, should have authorized us to go. Unfortunately the forecast is not good and only two days of good weather is expected, following with snow and wind up to 140km/h at 8000mt altitude. So we will have to wait and it looks like we have to wait for a while.”
Weather Conditions Confirm Forecast; Moro and Urubko Train Instead. (Posted: February 1, 2012)
Nanga Parbat Base Camp 4230m – -12° C
Karl Gabl is always right! The weather today began with sun so we started to train a bit. A 4 hours walk down to Kutgully using snow shoes and setting up a route for the shepas who will come tomorrow bringing food and fuel to sustain us for the next month.
We walked pretty well and set a really good path through the valley. On the way back from Kutgully the sky became cloudy but we expect some light snow fall tomorrow as forecasted by our weather guru in Innsbuck.
Story: Simone Moro/ Denis Urubko
Photo: Matteo Zanga
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Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams
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Filed under: Climbers, Denis Urubko, Expedition, Karakoram, Simone Moro, winter expedition | Tagged: Artur Hajzer, Climbers, Denis Urubko, Expedition, Gasherbrum, K2, Karakoram, Matteo Zanga, Nanga Parbat, Pakistan, Polish climbers, Simone Moro, Travel, www.thenorthfacejournal.com |