On 3 February 1987, Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I.
Jerzy kukuczka – climbing season 1987
1987 — Annapurna I – first winter ascent
After his early November climb on Manaslu, Jurek and Artur Hajzer summited Annapurna North Face on February 3, 1987. Hajzer returned to the mountains with Kukuczka already in September that same year. That’s when they made a first ascent of the East Ridgeon Shisha Pangma (Summit on September 18, 1987).
* source: – http://winterclimb.com/climbing-base/item/3-jerzy-kukuczka
Artur Hajzer – Jerzy Kukuczka’s partner
When you look for a phrase to describe Artur Hajzer, one of the first that comes to mind is ‘Jurek Kukuczka’s partner.’ Even though their first expedition was not successful, after Lhotse Hajzer felt much more secure.
“I started believing in myself. I realised that my first steps were analogous to what Jurek had been doing a few years back. Eventually, I felt convinced that the Lhotse failure had not determined it all and the next time – as proven by Jurek’s career – would be better,” Hajzer recalled years later. And it was better, together with Jerzy Kukuczka.
“How about going on an expedition with me? I need a partner. How about that?”
“I am all for it, on spec”, answered Elephant to Kukuś.
“It was very elevating to Artur, he was very pleased. Jurek Kukuczka offered Artur that if he had organised an expedition to Manaslu and a winter expedition to Annapurna, they would climb together. And so it happened, and that is the reason Artur decided not to go with us to climb K2 via the Magic Line route,” recalls Janusz Majer.
“The Manaslu (8,156m) expedition was the most difficult of all our – mine and Jurek’s – successful expeditions. It took place in autumn 1986. We were to attempt the south face of Annapurna (8,091m) in the same season,” wrote Hajzer. On 03 February 1987 they made their first winter ascent together to the summit of an eight-thousander.
Another expedition they went on together was a summer expedition to Shishapangma in August 1987, during which they established a new route on the western ridge. The same year, Artur made another attempt on the south face of Lhotse during an international expedition organised by Krzysztof Wielicki. The expedition was a failure. In 1988, he accompanied Jurek Kukuczka, this time ascending the west Annapurna via a new route. A year later he returned for the third time to the south face of Lhotse. That time, the international expedition was organised by the Kukuczka’s ‘greatest rival’ – Rainhold Messner.
“After that expedition I came to a conclusion that another attempt would be a waste of time,” Artur writes in Attack of Despair. That is why he did not join Kukuczka during his attempt.
“It was clear that Artur had equalled his master and his own ambition took the floor. He wanted to bring his own mountaineering projects to life,” recalls Janusz Majer.
….. more – Artur Hajzer – Ice Leader.
** see also:
… the first winter ascent of the south face of annapurna i, 1987-1988
Annapurna I : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering : SummitPost
Jerzy Kukuczka Ascents :
1973, 19 July – Aiguille du Moine. First polish ascent on Aureille-Fentren Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Marek Łukaszewski.
1973, 22 July – La Pell, Massiw Vercors. First polish ascent on Parish Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Marek Łukaszewski.
1973, 6 August – Mont Blanc, E Face. Major Route. Team: Beata Kozłowska, Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Kurczab, Marek Łukaszewski.
1973, 12-14 August – Petit Dru, new route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka, Marek Łukaszewski.
1975, 3-4 August – Grandes Jorasses, N Face. New Route. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka, Marek Łukaszewski.
1976, 1 August – Kohe Awal (5800 m). New route, solo ascent.
1971, 10-11 August – Kohe Tez (7015 m). Team: J. Baranek, S. Cholewa, Jerzy Kukuczka, H. Natkaniec.
1978, 9 August – Tiricz Mir East (7692 m), first ascent on E ridge. Team. Jerzy Kukuczka, Tadeusz Piotrowski, Michał Wroczyński.
1979, 4 October – Lhotse, normal route. Alpine Style without oxygen. Team: Andrzej Czok, Andrzej Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka, Janusz Skorek.
1980, 19 May – Mount Everest, new route, alpine style, without oxygen. Team: Andrzej Czok, Jerzy Kukuczka
1981, 15 October – Makalu, new route, solo, Alpine style, without oxygen. From Nepal.
1982, 30 July – Broad Peak – normal route, alpine style, without oxygen. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.
1983, 24 June – Gasherbrum II East (7772 m)
1983, 1 July – Gasherbrum II – new route (first ascent on E Ridge), alpine style, without oxygen. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.
1983, 23 July – Gasherbrum I – new route, alpine style. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka
1984, 17 July — Broad Peak – new route, alpine style. Traverse of massif Broad Peak. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Wojciech Kurtyka.
1904 – Biarhedi (6759 m) – First ascent, solo, alpine style, without oxygen.
1985, 21 January – Dhaulagiri – first winter ascent. Without oxygen. Team: Andrzej Czok, Jerzy Kukuczka.
1985, 15 February – Cho Oyu – second winter ascent (first was 12 February: Maciej Berbeka, Maciej Pawlikowski on this same expedition) , new route on S Face. Team: Andrzej Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka.
1985, 13 July – Nanga Parbat – new route on E Pillar. Without oxygen. Team: Carlos Carsolio, Andrzej Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka, Sławomir Łobodziński.
1986, 11 January – Kanchenjunga – first winter ascent. Without oxygen. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzysztof Wielicki.
1986, 8 July – K2 – Polish Line, new route on S Face, alpine style. Team: Jerzy Kukuczka, Tadeusz Piotrowski (died on descent).
1986, 9 November – Manaslu (E peak) – new route, alpine style. Team: Carlos Carsolio, Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka.
1986, 10 November – Manaslu, new route, alpine style. Team: Carlos Carsolio (without summit ascent), Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka.
1987, 3 February – Annapurna I – first winter ascent. Team: Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka.
1987, 18 September – Shisha Pangma – new route, alpine style, without oxygen. Also they do first ascent on Shisha Pangma West (7950 m) and Middle peak (8008 m). Team: Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka. Near of summit they meet another team (Wanda Rutkiewicz, Ryszard Warecki, Carlos Carsolio, Ramiro Navarette).
1987 – Yebokalgan Ri (7365 m) – First ascent on Summti. West ridghe, alpine style, without oxygen.
1988, 13 October – Annapurna I East (8010 m), new route. alpine style. Team: Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka
* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com
** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.
Filed under: Artur Hajzer, Climbers, Expedition, Historically exp-tions, Jerzy Kukuczka, Nepal, Polish Himalayas, Travel, winter expedition, wydarzenia | Tagged: Annapurna, Annapurna - First winter ascent, Artur Hajzer, Jerzy Kukuczka |