Video: From Base Camp to The Summit of Everest in 3D.

In just a few days time, dozens of teams of climbers will launch their summit bids on Mt. Everest. If you’ve ever wondered what the path to the top looks like, this video will give you an idea of what they’ll be climbing and hiking over in the days ahead. Made with Google Earth, it gives us a 3D view of the South Side of Everest in Nepal, taking us from Base Camp to the summit along the way.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Video: From Base Camp to The Summit of Everest in 3D

** see also: – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/video/

AddThis Feed Button


Routes – part 7. Drogi do celu. cz.7. /Version polish and english/

Other Routes – part 4.

Photo 1.

A. Flag of the United States American expedition, led byJames Morissey. October 8, 1983: Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler reached the Summit via the East or Kangshung face.

B. Flag of the United Kingdom The British West face expedition. May 12, 1988: British Stephen Venables, climbed a line to the left of the 1983 Kangshung Face route. Actually the East Face-South Col-SE Ridge. Venables was the only member of the expedition to reach the Summit.

Photo 2.
A. Flag of New Zealand Australian expedition, led by Geoffrey Bartram.

October 3, 1984: Australians Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer reached the Summit via the North Couloir (North Face to Norton Couloir) without bottled oxygen.

B. Flag of the United States American climber Phil Ershler.

October 20, 1984: Phil Ershler becomes first American to summit the North side of Everest.

* Previous story  :

–  Routes – part 6. Drogi do celu. cz.6. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 5. Drogi do celu. cz.5. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 2.Drogi do celu. cz.2. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 1.Drogi do celu. cz.1. /Version polish and english/

Dziś przedstawię kolejne drogi na szczyt Góry Gór, a ilustruje je zdjęcie poniżej:

A – Amerykańska wyprawa J. Morrisseya z 1983r.
B – Brytyjska droga z 1988r.

Amerykańska wyprawa z 1983r kierowana przez Jamesa Morrisseya dokonała pierwszego wejścia wschodnią ścianą, Kangshung, 8 pażdziernika szczyt zdobyli Carlos Buhler, Kim Momb i Louis Reichardt.
Brytyjska droga z1988r. Anglik Stephen Venables dotarł na szczyt 12 maja, po wytyczeniu nowej drogi na ścianie wschodniej wraz z dwoma towarzyszami Edwardem Websterem i Robertem Andersonem, ktorzy niestety zawrócili spod Wierzchołka Południowego.

A – Australijska droga z 1984r.
B – Droga Amerykanina Ershlera z 1984r.

Australijska wyprawa z 1984r prowadzona przez Geoffreya Bartrama ; zespół przeszedł Wielki Kuluar ( Kuluar Nortona ) na ścianie północnej, a 3 pażdziernika szczyt osiągneli Tim McCartney-Snape i Greg Mortimer.
Amerykanin Phil Ershler 20 pażdziernika 1984r wytyczył nową drogę biegnącą od północno-wschodniej grani przez ścianę północną na wysokości 7300m i dalej Wielkim Kuluarem.

** Poprzednie posty :

–  Routes – part 5. Drogi do celu. cz.5. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 2.Drogi do celu. cz.2. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 1.Drogi do celu. cz.1. /Version polish and english/

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Routes – part 6. Drogi do celu. cz.6. /Version polish and english/

Other Routes – part3.

A Flag of the People's Republic of China On May 25, 1960, a Chinese team consisting of Wang Fuzhou, Qu Yinhua and a Tibetan, Gingbu (Konbu) (assisted by Australian Daniel Rattner) makes the first summit via the North Ridge.

B Flag of Yugoslavia May 13th, 1979, Yugoslav West Ridge expedition, New route on West Ridge. Summit reached by two teams made up by Andrej Stremfelj and Nejc Zaplotnik , and then two days later by Stipe Bozic, Stane Belak and Ang Phu. Stane Belak, Ang Phu and Stipe Bozic bivouac at 8300 meters. The next day, Ang Phu tragically fell on the way down and died.

C Flag of Japan May 10, 1980, Japan expedition led by Hyoriko Watanabe, New route on West Face and the Horbain Couloir.

D Flag of Italy Reinhold Messner (Italy, South Tyrol), via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir, first man to climb Everest alone and without oxygen tanks.

1960: Chinese and Tibetan team of 214 men and women, led by Shih Chan- chun, makes the first summit of Everest via the North Col and Northeast Ridge. Long doubted by Western mountaineers because of the lack of a summit photo and the claim of summiting at night, the photos and film the Chinese did release reveal that they at least climbed the Second Step, the key to the route (although Reinhold Messner claims he possesses documentation proving they didn’t climb it, so far this evidence has not been produced). The final assault party of Wang Fu-chou, Liu Lien-man, Chu Yin-hua, and the Tibetan Gonbu (also known as Gonpa) assaulted the final 15 foot (5 meter) Second Step headwall using pitons and team tactics. After Liu Lien- man repeatedly falls off attempting to lead the pitch, Chu Yin-hua takes off his boots and socks, and using a shoulder stand climbs the
last vertical pitch in bare feet! Exhausted by his effort, Liu Lien- man is forced to halt at 28,600 feet (8,700 meters), but the remaining three climbers make it to the summit where they purportedly leave a plaster bust of Chairman Mao by a rock outcrop.

1980: Solo: Reinhold Messner (Italy) 8/20/80 via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6500 meters without the use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.

On May 4-9, 1982, first Soviet Everest expedition, New route on South West Face and South West Pillar.

Nearby is the West Pillar , first climbed in 1982 by a Russian expedition including Eduard Myslovski and Volodya Balyberdin. There were a total of eleven summits on this expedition, and thankfully no fatalities. The route has not been repeated.

On May 4-9, 1982 – 11 climbers summit Everest.

The South Pillar

Another relatively safe route up Everest – if there really is such a thing as a “safe” route on Everest! – is the South Pillar, first climbed in 1980 by Polish super-alpinists Jerzy Kukuczka i and Andrzej Czok.

The route has been climbed in it’s entirety a total of 17 times with one fatality. The Polish team spent 16 days establishing the route through the difficult rock barriers towards the top of the route, so many climbers opt to traverse across to the SE Ridge lower down.

28 climbers have traversed over from this route and safely summited. The one fatality that occurred on the complete S Pillar route was Josef Psotka in 1984, who after successfully summiting was killed in a fall, but it was from the Lhotse Face while descending the standard SE Ridge route. So to date there have been no fatalities on the South Pillar itself.

* Previous story  :

–  Routes – part 5. Drogi do celu. cz.5. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 2.Drogi do celu. cz.2. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 1.Drogi do celu. cz.1. /Version polish and english/

Dziś przedstawię kolejne drogi na szczyt Góry Gór, a ilustruje je zdjęcie poniżej:

A- Chińska droga z 1960r.
B- Jugosłowiańska droga zachodnia granią z 1979r.
C- Japońska droga z 1980r.
D- Wariant Messnera na ścianie północnej z 1980r.

Chińska ekspedycja z1960r prowadzona była przez Shih Chan-chuna ; weszła na Przełęcz Północną, a następnie podążała północną i południowo wschodnią granią na wierzchołek. 25 maja szczyt osiągnęli Wang Fu-chou, Chu Yin-hua i Tybetańczyk Gonpa.
Jugosłowiańska wyprawa z 1979r. kierowana przez Tone Skarję dokonała pełnego przejścia zachodniej grani. 13 maja szczyt osiągnęli Andrej Stremfelj i Jenrej Zaplotnik.
Japońska wyprawa z 1980r. kierowana przez Hyoriko Watanabe otworzyła nową drogę środkiem ściany północno-zachodniej , a w górnej partii Kuluarem Hornbeina. 10 maja na szczyt weszli Takashi Ozaki i Tsuneon Shigehiro.
Wariant Messnera z 1980r to nowa droga na ścianie północnej, droga częściowo biegnie północno-wschodnią granią, przecina ścianę północną i dalej prowadzi Wielkim Kuluarem, 20 sierpnia po samotnej wspinaczce wszedł na szczyt Austriak Reinhold Messner ( obecnie największy z żyjących himalaistów ).

Droga rosyjskiej wyprawy z 1982r.;

na południowo zachodniej ścianie i południowym filarze, który pierwszy raz pokonali Polacy Jerzy Kukuczka i Andrzej Czok w sławnej wyprawie z 1980r prowadzonej przez Andrzeja Zawadę.

Rosjanie przeszli nową drogą na filarze z lewej strony na południowo-zachodniej ścianie.

Jak dotąd nikt nie powtórzył tej drogi.

Pomiędzy 4 a 9 maja na szczycie stanęło aż 11 wspinaczy.

Droga rosyjska na filarze południowo-zachodniej ściany. /zdj po prawo/

** Poprzednie posty :

–  Routes – part 5. Drogi do celu. cz.5. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 2.Drogi do celu. cz.2. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 1.Drogi do celu. cz.1. /Version polish and english/

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Routes – part 5. Drogi do celu. cz.5. /Version polish and english/

Other Routes – part 2.

Flag of the United States American expedition, led by Norman Dyhrenfurth. First ascent by an American: Jim Whittaker; first ascent of the West Ridge on May 22, 1963 by Americans Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld.

1963: American Expedition with Norman Dyhrenfurth as leader and including A. Auten, Barry Bishop, Jake Breitenbach, J. Corbet, D. Dingman, D. Doody, R. Emerson, Tom Hornbein, Lute Jerstad, J. Lester, Willi Unsoeld, and Jim Whittaker. A huge expedition, costing almost $400,000 and supported by the National Geographic Society, over 900 porters carry 29 tons of food and equipment to the base of the mountain. Base Camp is established at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall on Mar 21 and the route through the icefall prepared soon after. Jake Breitenbach is killed by collapsing seracs in the Icefall but the expedition continues. The expedition splits into two parties – the West Ridgers and the South Collers.

First Assault: May 1 From Camp 6 at 27,450 feet (8370 meters) on the SE Ridge, Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu Sherpa reach the summit in strong winds at 1 PM. Whittaker becomes the first American to summit Everest.

Second Assault: After a tent at Camp 4W – including occupants – is nearly blown off the West Shoulder by hurricane force winds, Camp 5W is placed in the Hornbien Couloir at the foot of the Yellow Band at 27,250 feet (8300 meters). Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld squeeze their way through the couloir and ascend a 60 foot (20 meter) headwall before emerging onto the upper summit pyramid at 27,900 feet (8500 meters). The pair then traverse across to the West Ridge proper, reaching the summit at 6:15 PM. They are forced to descend the SE Ridge where they meet Jerstad and Bishop who had summited at 3:30 PM. The four men descend to around 28,000 feet (8500 meters) before having to bivouac for the night on the ridge proper. They survive a long, cold night out in the open and descend safely to the South Col the next day. Unsoeld later loses most of his toes to frostbite. The first new route and the first traverse of Everest.

Droga amerykańskiej wyprawy z 1963r kierowanej przez Normana Dyhrenfurtha.
22 maja Tom Hornbein i Willi Unsoeld wytyczyli nową droge po pokonaniu odcinka : zachodnim grzbietem, zachodnią granią i dalej kuluarem ( obecnie nazywanym Kuluarem Hornbeina ), który wcina się w północną scianę, dochodząc w końcu do wierzchołka.

Flag of the United Kingdom The British SW face expedition led by Chris Bonington. Summit reached by 2 teams made up with Doug Scott, Dougal Haston, Peter Boardman, and Sirdar Pertemba. BBC cameraman Mick Burke failed to return from a solo summit bid.

1975: Chinese Expedition led by Shih Chan-chun, leader of the 1960 Chinese ascent, and organized by a “Party Committee” that included Wang Fu-chou, one of the 1960 summiters. A military-style expedition that uses soldiers to carry supplies to the North Col and siege tactics to progressively reposition camps higher and higher up the mountain. A final assault camp is established between the First and Second Steps at 28,500 feet (8,680 meters) by the Mushroom Rock, and the Second Step is prepared with an aluminum ladder to overcome the final vertical headwall pitch. A team of nine climbers – eight Tibetan and one Chinese – reaches the summit on May 27, including the Tibetan woman, Phantog. Phantog becomes the second woman to summit Everest, losing this honor to Junko Tabei by only a few days. She is the first woman to summit from the Tibetan side.

1975: British SW Face Expedition (post-monsoon). Leader Chris Bonington and including H. MacInnes, Peter Boardman, Martin Boysen, P. Braithwaite, Micke Burke, M. Cheney, C. Clarke, Nick Estcourt, Dougal Haston, and Doug Scott. Base Camp is reached on August 22 and Advance Base is established on September 2. The expedition is blessed with good weather and smooth logistics, resulting in the steady placement of camps up the Central Gully to Camp 5 at 25,500 feet (7800 meters). The Rock Band is ascended via a gully on the left side by Estcourt and Braithwaite, who have some sporty moments when their oxygen runs out on dicey pitches at 27,000 feet (8200 meters). The upper icefield is reached via an awkward outward-sloping ramp; Haston and Scott establish Camp 6 a few days later at an elevation of 27,300 feet (8300 meters). The next day they fix 1,500 feet of rope on the upper snowfield, extending the route towards a gully leading up to the South Summit.

First Assault: Sept 24: Haston and Scott reach the South Summit at 3 PM after 11 hours of climbing. After preparing a snow cave and drinking a brew, they continue on to the summit which they reach at 6 PM. They descend to the South Summit and bivouac in the snowcave. After a freezing, oxygenless night complete with hypoxic conversations with feet, toes, and imaginary companions, the pair descend to Camp 6 safely, passing the second assault party on their way up.

Second Assault: Sept 26: Boardman and Sirdar Pertemba reach the summit and descend in a gathering storm, where they encounter Mick Burke just below the summit. They wait for him as long as possible before descending, but Burke is never seen alive again. He probably made the top but fell off of the heavily corniced summit ridge while descending in the deteriorating conditions.

Droga brytyjskiej wyprawy z 1975r kierowanej przez Chrisa Boningtona, wejście południowo – zachodnią ściana. 24 września na szczyt dotarli Dougal Haston i Doug Scott.

** Poprzednie posty :

–  Routes – part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 2.Drogi do celu. cz.2. /Version polish and english/

–  Routes – part 1.Drogi do celu. cz.1. /Version polish and english/

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Routes – part 4. Drogi do celu. cz.4. /Version polish and english/

South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 2.

Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 / photo on the right/. With supplemental oxygen, Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay made their way to the top via the South Col, that became the most used climbing route to the summit.

In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned to Nepal. Hunt selected two climbing pairs to attempt to reach the summit. The first pair turned back after becoming exhausted high on the mountain. The next day, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with its fittest and most determined climbing pair. The summit was eventually reached at 11:30 a.m. local time on May 29, 1953 by the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay from Nepal climbing the South Col Route. At the time, both acknowledged it as a team effort by the whole expedition, but Tenzing revealed a few years later that Hillary had put his foot on the summit first. They paused at the summit to take photographs and buried a few sweets and a small cross in the snow before descending. News of the expedition’s success reached London on the morning of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. Returning to Kathmandu a few days later, Hillary and Hunt discovered that they had been promptly knighted for their effort.

Mapka wyżej przedstawia drogę Edmunda Hilary’ego i Szerpy Tenzinga Norgaya :

Droga Edmunda Hilary’ego i Szerpy Tenzinga Norgaya, droga pierwszego udanego wejścia na szczyt z 29 maja 1953r., zwana też drogą klasyczną, a czasami ” łatwą” , ale to pozory bo wszak wiadomo, że w Wysokich Górach nic nie jest łatwe.
W tej pamiętnej wyprawie brało udział 10 Europejczyków i 39 Szerpów, a ciekawostka jest fakt, że tamta historyczna wyprawa założyła aż 9 obozów, obecnie zakłada się jedynie : obóz bazowy – zwany też BC i cztary obozy wyższe, czyli razem 5. Droga na szczyt wiodła wtedy od obozu I (5400m) na lodowcu Khumbu (obecnie obóz I to właśnie BC ), przez Iceffal z wielkimi i groźnymi szczelinami oraz serakami ( wielu twierdzi, że przejście Iceffalu to loteria o śmierć i życie ), aż do obozu IV (6400m) założonego w bezwietrznym wąwozie, który himalaiści nazwali Dolina Ciszy, a dalej nad Kotłem Zachodnim założono obóz VII (7300m), skąd wspinacze wspinali się na Przełęcz Południową do obozu VIII (7900m), a potem do obozu IX (8500m), stąd nastąpił atak szczytowy granią szczytową poprzez Wierzchołek Południowy i uskok przed szczytem dziś zwany uskokiem Hilary’ego.

Wejście na Everest miało być prezentem koronacyjnym dla Elżbiety II.

Other Routes – part 1.

A – 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, via the South Col, Nepal.

B – On May 19, 1980 Andrzej Czok and Jerzy Kukuczka (on the Polish National Expedition led by Andrezej Zswada) established a new Everest route by following the South Pillar on the right-hand edge of the Southwest Face.

The South Pillar

Another relatively safe route up Everest – if there really is such a thing as a “safe” route on Everest! – is the South Pillar, first climbed in 1980 by Polish super-alpinists Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok.

The route has been climbed in it’s entirety a total of 17 times with one fatality. The Polish team spent 16 days establishing the route through the difficult rock barriers towards the top of the route, so many climbers opt to traverse across to the SE Ridge lower down.

28 climbers have traversed over from this route and safely summited. The one fatality that occurred on the complete S Pillar route was Josef Psotka in 1984, who after successfully summiting was killed in a fall, but it was from the Lhotse Face while descending the standard SE Ridge route. So to date there have been no fatalities on the South Pillar itself.

Na zdjęciu czerwone linie pokazują drogi na szczyt :
A- Brytyjska droga z 1953r wiodła m.in. przez Wierzchołek Południowy.
B- Polska droga z 1980r wiodła wzdłuż południowego filara.

Droga polska została wytyczona przez wyprawę kierowaną przez Andrzeja Zawadę, pierwsze wejście południowym filarem, a ściślej miedzy filarem a południowo -wschodnia granią; 19 maja 1980r na szczycie stanęli Jerzy Kukuczka i Andrzej Czok.

Ciekawostka jest, że Zawada kierował nieco wcześniej wyprawą zimową. Pamiętna wyprawa i wielki sukces polskich himalaistów, bo po raz pierwszy w zimie, 17 lutego 1980r szczyt Everestu zdobyli Leszek Cichy i Krzysztof Wielicki.

* Zapraszam też do oglądania albumu o Everescie, wystarczy kliknąć link : Odkrywanie Everestu

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Routes – part 3.Drogi do celu. cz.3. /Version polish and english/

Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet, as well as many other less frequently climbed routes /watch the next posts/.

South Col – South East Ridge Route – part 1.

Of the two main routes, the southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 / photo on the right /. With supplemental oxygen, Edmund Hillary of New Zealand and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay made their way to the top via the South Col, that became the most used climbing route to the summit. May 29, 1953: First Summit !!!!Everest First Summit Route New
In a present time the ascent via the southeast ridge begins with a trek to Base Camp at 5,380 m (17,600 ft) on the south side of Everest in Nepal. Expeditions usually fly into Lukla (2,860 m) from Kathmandu and pass through Namche Bazaar. Climbers then hike to Base Camp, which usually takes six to eight days, allowing for proper altitude acclimatization in order to prevent altitude sickness. Climbing equipment and supplies are carried by yaks, dzopkyos (yak hybrids) and human porters to Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier. When Hillary and Tenzing climbed Everest in 1953, they started from Kathmandu Valley, as there were no roads further east at that time.

Climbers will spend a couple of weeks in Base Camp, acclimatizing to the altitude. During that time, Sherpas and some expedition climbers will set up ropes and ladders in the treacherous Khumbu Icefall. Seracs, crevasses and shifting blocks of ice make the icefall one of the most dangerous sections of the route. Many climbers and Sherpas have been killed in this section. To reduce the hazard, climbers will usually begin their ascent well before dawn when the freezing temperatures glue ice blocks in place. Above the icefall is Camp I at 6,065 m (19,900 ft).

From Camp I, climbers make their way up the Western Cwm to the base of the Lhotse face, where Camp II or Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is established at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). The Western Cwm is a relatively flat, gently rising glacial valley, marked by huge lateral crevasses in the centre which prevent direct access to the upper reaches of the Cwm. Climbers are forced to cross on the far right near the base of Nuptse to a small passageway known as the “Nuptse corner”. The Western Cwm is also called the “Valley of Silence” as the topography of the area generally cuts off wind from the climbing route. The high altitude and a clear, windless day can make the Western Cwm unbearably hot for climbers.

south route 3_1 Everest : South Col – South East Ridge Route.

From ABC, climbers ascend the Lhotse face on fixed ropes up to Camp III, located on a small ledge at 7,470 m (24,500 ft). From there, it is another 500 metres to Camp IV on the South Col at 7,920 m (26,000 ft). From Camp III to Camp IV, climbers are faced with two additional challenges: The Geneva Spur and The Yellow Band. The Geneva Spur is an anvil shaped rib of black rock named by a 1952 Swiss expedition. Fixed ropes assist climbers in scrambling over this snow covered rock band. The Yellow Band is a section of interlayered marble, phyllite, and semischist which also requires about 100 metres of rope for traversing it.

On the South Col, climbers enter the death zone. / photo on the right – Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on the South Col/ Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on the South Col New

Climbers typically only have a maximum of two or three days they can endure at this altitude for making summit bids. Clear weather and low winds are critical factors in deciding whether to make a summit attempt. If weather does not cooperate within these short few days, climbers are forced to descend, many all the way back down to Base Camp.

From Camp IV, climbers will begin their summit push around midnight with hop es of reaching the summit (still another 1,000 metres above) within 10 to 12 hours. Climbers will first reach “The Balcony” at 8,400 m (27,700 ft), a small platform where they can rest and gaze at peaks to the south and east in the early dawn light. Continuing up the ridge, climbers are then faced with a series of imposing rock steps which usually forces them to the east into waist deep snow, a serious avalanche hazard. At 8,750 m (28,700 ft), a small table-sized dome of ice and snow marks the South Summit.

From the South Summit, climbers follow the knife-edge southeast ridge along what is known as the “Cornice traverse” where snow clings to intermittent rock. This is the most exposed section of the climb as a misstep to the left would send one 2,400 m (8,000 ft) down the southwest face while to the immediate right is the 3,050 m (10,000 ft) Kangshung face.

At the end of this traverse is an imposing 12 m (40 ft) rock wall called the “Hillary Step” at 8,760 m (28,750 ft). Tenzing Norgay - Everest 1953 New

Hillary and Tenzing were the first climbers to ascend this step and they did it with primitive ice climbing equipment and without fixed ropes. Nowadays, climbers will ascend this step using fixed ropes previously set up by Sherpas. Once above the step, it is a comparatively easy climb to the top on moderately angled snow slopes – though the exposure on the ridge is extreme especially while traversing very large cornices of snow.

After the Hillary Step, climbers also must traverse a very loose and rocky section that has a very large entanglement of fixed ropes that can be troublesome in bad weather. Climbers will typically spend less than a half-hour on “top of the world” as they realize the need to descend to Camp IV before darkness sets in, afternoon weather becomes a serious problem, or supplemental oxygen tanks run out.

* Previous story  :

Routes – part 2.Drogi do celu. cz.2. /Version polish and english/

Routes – part 1.Drogi do celu. cz.1. /Version polish and english/

** See : The routes to climb Mount Everest

Droga pierwszych zdobywców Everestu.

Mapka na początku pokazuje drogę jaką pokonali na szczyt jego pierwsi zdobywcy Edmund Hillary i Tenzing Norgay 29 maja 1953 r. Po wielu latach nieudanych prób od północnej , tybetańskiej strony udało się zdobyć Everest od strony Nepalu.

Ta droga na szczyt nazywana jest do dziś drogą klasyczną i w opinii wielu himalaistów jest ona jedną z łatiejszych dróg na szczyt, choć należy pamiętać, że na Everescie NIC nie jest łatwe.

Przypomina o tym książka Wszystko za Everest – Jona Krakauera, w której autor opisuje wielką tragedię jaka wydażyła się na Everescie właśnie na wyprawie chcącej zdobyć Everest od srony Nepalu, kiedy to zgineli tak sławni i doświadczeni himalaiści jak : Scott Fischer i Rob Hall

Drogą tą zdobyła szczyt m.in. Martyna Wojciechowska o czym można przeczytać klikając na link : Everest dla kazdego.. czy to prawda?

Polskie wejścia to :

* Zobacz :
Pierwsza Polka, która zdobyła Everest od północy : Anna Barańska.

A view of Everest southeast ridge base camp. The Khumbu Icefall can be seen in the left. In the center are the remains of a helicopter that crashed in 2003.
A view of Everest southeast ridge base camp.
The Khumbu Icefall can be seen in the left.
In the center are the remains of a helicopter that crashed in 2003.

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Routes – part 2.Drogi do celu. cz.2. /Version polish and english/

The one of the normal routes to climb Mount Everest :

North Col – North East Ridge Route

North Col - North East Ridge Route

Base Camp: 17,000ft — ABC: 21,300ft — Camp 1: 23,000ft — Camp 2: 24,750ft — Camp 3: 25,600ft — Camp 4: 27,400ft

First Step: 27,890ft — Second Step: 28,140ft — Third Step: 28,510ft

All heights are approx.

Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp (ABC)

Base Camp is situated on a gravel plain just below the Rongbuk Monastery. From here to ABC it is about a 12 mile trek along the Rongbuk Glacier, which is mostly made up of small boulders, with some snow and ice, up to the East Rongbuk Glacier. Here you will walk among the ice towers, which can be up to a 100 foot tall, before arriving into ABC.

ABC to Camp 1

ABC is located on rocky and broken ground, and at times can be very windy. From here you follow the fairly easy to moderate route up the East Rongbuk Glacier, and then up the snow slopes to the North Col, which is where you will find Camp 1

Camp 1 to Camp 2

The North Col Camp sits on a saddle between Everest and Changtse. This camp can be at times extremely windy. From the saddle you follow the long moderate snow slope, which eventually changes to a mixture of rock and snow, to the snow ledge where Camp 2 is normally placed.

Camp 2 to Camp 3

Due to a lack of good camping spots at Camp 2, most tents will end up being pitched uncomfortably on down facing rock ledges. The route between Camp 2 and Camp 3 is traditionally very windy. The terrain is made up of rock and shingle steps, which is all fairly easy, but a slip here could mean certain death. There are fixed ropes in place to offer some security.

Camp 3 to Camp 4

Camp 3 is a deafening place to be because of the roar of the wind. From Camp 3 some climbers will start to use oxygen support. The route is a mixture of rock steps and medium snow slopes. There is the help of the fixed rope, but this is mainly used to stop you from taking the wrong direction rather than secure you to the mountain.

Camp 4 to Summit

Camp 4 is small and uncomfortable, but your aim is to spend as little time here as possible. All climbers are on oxygen support now, except the very brave. Leaving Camp 4 in the dark you ascend into the Yellow Band, which in places is steep, up onto the North East Ridge. Along this ridge you will come across your first obstacle, the First Step. The First Step is a short rock buttress about 100 feet in height. This Step is quite straightforward but can be challenging at this altitude. Some steep and exposed climbing will then lead you onto the Second Step. The Second Step is the hardest of all three Steps. It is in two sections, the lower part consists of large boulders, and then a steep snow gully that leads you onto the fixed ladder. Overall it is about a 130feet in height. After another short climb you come up against the Third Step. This Step is said to be the easiest off all three. It is a 80 foot high lump of rock, that you can either climb, or go around it on the steep snowslopes. Once this last Step is dealt with you will then find yourself on the Summit Pyramid. This is a steep snowfield that ends about 60 foot below the summit. Then all that is between you and the summit is the medium snow slope, which will lead you to the top of the world.

There is one of most famous photo in the world.
George Mallory and Edward Norton – Everest at 8200 m. They ascended without use of oxygen.

British expedition – 1922 r.

take a look at my photo gallery which pictures the story of the discovery and climbing the Mt. Everest :

discovery and climbing Everest

George Mallory wraz z Edwardem Nortonem sfotografowani na wysokości 8200 m po północnej stronie Everestu , wspinają sie bez tlenu mając skromne wyposażenie.

To zdjęcie z wyprawy z 1922r obiegło cały świat , stając się jednym z najsławniejszych zdjęć na świecie.

Więcej ciekawych zdjęć z pierwszych wypraw chcących zdobyć Everest zbaczysz klikając link : discovery and climbing Everest

Mt Everest from Rombok Gompa

Drogi na szczyt Everestu.

Mapa powyżej przedstawia drogę na szczyt Everestu od strony Tybetu. Była to droga jaką Brytyjczycy podejmowali próby zdobycia szczytu w latach 1921 d0 1938 r. Były to próby niestety nieudane , pierwszego zdobycia Everestu dokonano bowiem od strony Nepalu. Do dziś droga ta uważana jest za tą trudniejszą.

Na zdjęciu pokazano usytuowanie poszczególnych obozów w drodze na szczyt Everestu, ale należy zwrócić uwagę , że to współczesny plan obozów, nieco inny niż ten z lat dwudziestych i trzydziestych.

Podobna drogą zdobywał szczyt polski himalaista młodego pokolenia Marcin Miotk. Jego wyczyn jest tym cenniejszy , że było to zdobycie szczytu bez tlenu i bez pomocy Sherpów !!!

Droga wejściowa – Everest North 2005 – pierwsze polskie wejście bez użycia tlenu.

Więcej o wyprawach Marcina na stronie www.miotk.pl

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga