Hiking Lady’s Blog – My recommendation.

Let me introducing you… very cool website :

Welcome to Hiking Lady! 
Do you like to hike? Do you enjoy the outdoors? Perhaps you’re in the market for hiking gear but don’t know what to buy? Hiking Lady is here for you!
Whether your idea of a hike is a walk on a secluded path close to home, a serene day hike in beautiful Yosemite National Park, or climbing a peak, Hiking Lady is the place to develop and share a passion for the outdoors!
Do you like to hike but are concerned about your baby? Do you want to hike while pregnant? Then check out Hiking Lady’s new site, Hiking Baby!

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Hiking in Phoenix and Scottsdale, Arizona

Venturing out of Southern California with Hiking Baby in tow, we went to Phoenix and Scottsdale, Arizona, and explored some baby carrier and stroller friendly hikes/walks. Luckily the weather was… Read more…

* source: –  http://hikinglady.com/

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Interview with Walter Laserer: Upside down in the Khumbu Icefall.

Author: Alan Arnette.
Courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization

You are upside down, wedged in a deep crevasse at 19,000 feet in the Khumbu icefall. Your team mate is on top of you and you think another is nearby. Walter LasererEveryone knew the serac would give way, they just didn’t know when. Walter Laserer found out, up close and personal. He not only lived to tell the story but went on to summit Everest on an extremely harsh day in the spring of 2009.

The 49 year-old, runs one of the largest guide services in central Europe, Laserer-alpin, from his office near Salzburg, Austria. Walter has been a UIAGM guide for over 20 years.

His climbing achievements are quite impressive: the north face of the Eiger during winter, a ski descent of Eiger’s west face, El Cap nose, the west face of Husacaran, Cerro Torre, a winter ascent of Denali plus multiple summer climbs, Vinson, Carstensz Pyramid, Aconcagua, Elbrus. Oh, and he loves to ski when not climbing!

He is quite experienced on Everest with four expeditions and another planned this spring. He knows both the victory and disappointment of Everest with three successful summits and one aborted attempt in 2005 when they were forced back at the Balcony by high winds on their summit bid.

I wanted to discuss his amazing crevasse incident of last year and introduce him to readers since often the U.S. guides seem to get so much press. I also wanted his views on guiding in general and any differences with the US style. He was kind enough to take some time off his beloved ski slopes to share his thoughts.

Q: Many readers may not be familiar with Laserer-alpin. Tell us a bit about yourself and your company.

A: I founded Laserer-alpin 20 years ago in Graz, Austria. Laserer-alpin has around 1000 clients each year and operates dozens of trips every year. During the main season there are about 20 guides working in our company, all of them fully IVBV certified. Our main business is guided mountaineering holidays in the alps. The expedition – product line is the “Seven Summits”. I  personally am  working as professional and fully certified IVBV Mountain guide since 1984, so for 25 years now. For the first time in 1995, I climbed Carstensz Pyramid with clients and started to guide all the seven summits.

Q: You see many different climbers while guiding the 7 Summits. How has climbing changed since you started?

A: The Internet has changed our whole world, also climbing. In the beginning we got clients through classic advertising and everything was much slower. Now people sign in for a trip via internet and you have to be very careful that they are mountaineers. I mean about 15 years ago, they were mountaineers, cyclist, climbers, canoeist, or marathon runners. Each of them did just his own single sport.

Now it is usual, that everybody outdoors does everything. I mean no more such specializing. Many clients run marathons and train for it, many of them go also outside and bike a lot, and one part of their game is climbing/mountaineering. And therefore they are, of course, not as experienced as clients who go just in the mountains. This is a big danger for us as guides (to take too unexperienced clients to serious goals), but also a very big chance, because those clients need and usually book a lot of professional preparations and special trainings.

Q: Some readers may know you from the crevasse rescue in the Khumbu icefall in 2009 that was shown on the TV show Everest: Beyond the Limit. I was amazed to see you not only survive but to go on and summit. Tell us a little about that experience.

First of all I want to thank once more all the persons, sherpas, guides, doctors who worked so great together to help us. For me it was a sign of the “Spirit of the south side on Everest”. All the professionals work well together on the mountain, although the teams in economic competition. This is how working professionals on a mountain is different from all other businesses, we have to work together, we have to help each other once we are out in the wilderness.  And when you help others it may come back to your own team.

The 2009 season on Everest was a very warm winter with very little snow (the previous year ‘08 it has snowed nearly nothing in the Solu Khumbu) and in ’09 it was very hot during the “rotations” to the high camps. The daily avalanche patterns from Pumo Ri, Lo La pass, west shoulder and Nuptse were more frequent and larger avalanches than in other years. Especially the hanging glacier high up on the west shoulder had created big avalanches prior to our accident. There was a big serac, which looked like it would fall down immediately, but nobody could know when that would happen. Everybody – especially all the guides – were very concerned when the next big one would come.

I had successfully finished the 2nd rotation with my team and we were on our final way down from camp 2 to base camp. We made the usual start at 6 in the morning reaching the icefall around 7 when the sun reached us. We could feel that it was very hot that day. I told my team to hurry and go as fast as they could.

The avalanche hit us at one of the last ladders on the way down, I could hear the noise, looked back and realized immediately, that this was the big one that everybody had been afraid of.

We had about 5 seconds for reaction. We unclipped from the fixed line and hurried about 5 meters over and into the shadow of a serac, the only one reachable in the short time. Unfortunately there was a very small crevasse at the base. We stepped with our feet at one side, and leaned our backs with the rucksacks on, against the ice wall on the other side. Bernice Notenboom was right of me and Lapka Nuru was on my left side.

When the avalanche finally hit us, it was the same feeling like somebody would empty a truckload of head-sized blue ice cubes over us. Our heads and upper body were protected from the serac, but unfortunately our legs were right in the line. It was impossible to withstand the enormous pressure. I fell upside down into the crevasse with lots of snow and ice spraying into my face.

Bernice fell on top of me. Lapka – I couldn’t see what happened to him. I fell about 15 meters down and became lodged with my rucksack against the walls, head down feet up, but could move my hands and feet. It was possible for me to press Bernice up, and help her to free herself.

But as I pressed her, my own body slid deeper down and stuck even more. I could feel slightly that my body went down more and more, melting into the ice from my body heat. I could breath less from minute to minute, as the ice walls narrowed more and more the lower I slid down. Bernice was able to climb up the crevasse and she immediately started to shout for help.

I knew, that from base camp it was about one hour up for help. I asked myself how long is it possible to stay alive upside down? I tried to free myself again and again. No chance, I was stuck with my rucksack. Finally I could turn my legs a bit sidewards, that eased my situation a bit, but now the cold came through my totally wet clothes. I knew I am dead, alive but dead. The only thing I could do was wait for the end.

It was not possible even to easily turn my head due to the narrow crevasse, but I could see a big red spot of blood down in the snow at the base. I started to push me up mentally, I had no idea how, but I knew I would find a solution! Again and again I tried to move – still no change. Finally I tried to open the strings of my rucksack, but meanwhile my hands were so frozen, that this was also impossible. I became unconscious.

When I awoke, I could see a knife hanging directly into my face from a miraculous appearing rope. I tried to take the knife with both my frozen hands but my fingers were not useable anymore. With gigantic effort I tried to cut the rucksack string – again in vain. Hopeless I sunk back and became unconscious again.

When I awoke next, shivering from the cold and meanwhile soaked with water, I realized, that somebody was next to me. “Please don´t go, don´t leave me alone”, are the words I remember mumbling to the man. He tried to reach me from the side, as from above this was not possible. He clipped me into a rope and was able to cut my rucksack strings. And upwards I went with enormous energy and speed; I crashed with my helmet against a blue ice spot and lost consciousness.

Next what I remember is laying in the sun with a very strong ache in my arm. Felix Stockenhuber our expedition doc, who could luckily survive the avalanche, stuck a needle into my veins. I again lost consciousness but realized that I was being carried. My whole body was aching, every bone and every move ached like crazy.

Finally I awoke fully and wanted to move. I tried to stand up, to do a couple steps and with help of others it worked. My Sherpa friend Phunuru carried a large oxygen bottle and we went slowly down to basecamp. Our basecamp Sirdar Pertemba informed me that a helicopter is on its way.

I canceled the helicopter immediately, as I felt better and better. I wanted to have more time to make any decision. Bernice, Felix and Tomsky from of my team were alive, but tragically our so nice and friendly Sherpa Lapka Nuru was still missing under the enormous masses of ice.

There are several important details that allowed us to survive. First of all, the excellent and very professional “work together” from more than half a dozen teams. The Indian Neru Military expedition, which came behind us first to the place of the accident. Our own Sherpa team coordinated from Pertemba, the great communication done from Ang Jang Pu, the fact that Danuru had a rope in his pack and is also able to work with it, the Benegas brothers with their unbelievable energy, Dave Hahn, who ran up with the life saving fluid for my blood, Russell Brice for helping also with his team and many others who I don’t know by name.

My fingers were a little frozen and I had many blue dots on my legs and lower body, also several cuts in my face. It took me about one week to suffer a bit, think a lot, and finally making the right decision. After a big discussion we all agreed, that it was in Lapkas honor to finish the climb in his memory.

The only thing left for me was: how to motivate myself to climb again through the dangerous Icefall. I had already been on three Everest expeditions and summited twice with clients.

The main fact in successfully guiding clients on such big and difficult mountains is “trust”. My clients have all spent a lot of time and money to reach their personal goal of a lifetime, and they trust me, to make it possible. “Life is passion” I thought, and after a good weather forecast we started for our summit bid. Twelve days after the accident I could successfully summit with clients for my 3rd time.

It was really interesting, that on our summit day, we would rescue a stranded American at 8300 m. He was alone, running out of oxygen, and had fallen in the dark before we found him around midnight,  nearly frozen to death. After putting him on his down parka again, given him something hot to drink, heat packs for his hands and a lot of our oxygen I radioed to other teams. The guy could stay alive but lost a couple fingers and toes, I think also his nose.

Q: Your 2009 Everest was in very harsh and windy conditions. Where would it rank in your history of difficult summits?

My history of difficult summits is long during more than 20 year of professional guiding. The most challenging climb was a winter ascent on Denali in February 1989. We nearly died in a furious winter storm which hit us above Denali pass (around 6000 m). After descending down to high camp in very stormy and dark conditions we nearly couldn’t find our snow cave in the intense storm. Tragically three Japanese died, but our team could stay alive with even no frostbite!

The second difficult climb was a terrible storm on Mt. Vinson, Antarctica. After the storm had destroyed many tents, we were climbing down from the new high camp, when we suddenly stumbled over two stranded Americans, one was even not able to go without help. Our very well trained and prepared group went down the 1200 m fixed lines with the assistant guides, while I rappelled the two Americans down to camp 1, where – once more Dave Hahn – did a great job in helping and rescuing. A couple days later we all could summit without any more troubles.

Q: Everest is known to be quite crowded these days. How does Laserer-alpin manage your schedule with all the crowds?

Compare to international big mountains, I don´t think that Everest is really crowded. On Aconcagua you have about 8000 climbers every year, on Denali around 1500 and on Everest about 300 on the south side with another 300 Sherpas helping. I mean it is the highest mountain in the world, and really beautiful. Of course people from all over the world come and want to climb.

On Mt. Blanc we have about 350 people every day during the season! And of course there are a lot of differences in the ability of the climbers. I am also thinking, that the amount of accidents is not big. For example in the Mt. Blanc area every season there will be about 50 people killed in accidents, alone on the Matterhorn 47 on an average year, but of course out of thousands of mountaineers and most of them not professional guided.

Here I think it is very important for us as guides and guide services to learn to say “no”, if a client is too weak. Or to go at a later date and prepare the clients in an other year of training before we take them on such big climbs.

The work as guide out on the mountain has to be once more networking with other groups. During the last seasons it was usual, that the professional teams at south col deal out a schedule for their groups. So that about every hour the next group is leaving. This avoid bigger crowds on the climb. I never had an awful experience with many people on Everest. But of course I am getting used to dealing with other guides from my long time experience of guiding in the Alps and south America. And of course it is much easier to deal with other guides if you know each other.

Q: With German as your native tongue, do your Sherpas also speak German?

There are many Sherpas working in the Alps during European main season, when they have monsoon in Nepal, there are some who even are able to speak German. But in Europe the school system is different to that in the states. My daughters, for example have learned their first English words in Kindergarden at age 5! They are now 16 years old and learn in the public school English, French, Spanish and Latin beside their native tongue German.

Q: As a European company, do you have a favorite gear company?

Not really, in Europe we have Mammut and Salewa as the two big players in gear, but also some American companies like The North Face are well established on the market.

For me as professional guide my expenses in gear are not big compare to the money we run through our company. Usually I get equipment for free from different companies for personal use.

Q: What are your thoughts on climbing ethics, in other words climbers being honest about their achievements and potential rules governing climbing?

In Europe right now a big mountain ethic discussion is starting. Maybe some of the readers have already heard about the “Tryol Declaration”. My personal thought about this is, that the main goal in mountaineering and climbing is freedom. If we start to establish rules for mountaineering we kill our own sport. Everybody should have the freedom to find his personal felicity in the mountains in the way he wants to. The border of freedom of course is, where you constrain somebody else.

The most important thing for me is honesty. For example if you use oxygen on a high mountain, you have to tell it. If you don´t use oxygen, you should treat others, who do, with respect. An other big discussion is about doping in mountaineering. Every season not only one climber fails, because of unprofessional use of pills/drugs.

Q: Do you see a difference between American and European guiding?

If you hire a guide, you should be sure, that he is well known and experienced, or has the AMGA /IVBV (American Mountain Guides Association, Internationaler Verband der nationalen Bergführer Verbände) education and is member of the International Guiding Association.

This is the highest level worldwide for guides.  In Europe it is unthinkable to work as guide without adequate education and being a member.  This is forbidden in the Alps and also all the insurance coverage is not given. Members of this IVBV are also allowed to work in all other member countries legal! Currently, I think about, 70 countries!

The beginning of mountain guiding in the alps has been the first ascent of Mt. Blanc 1786, with Balmat and Saussure. In this nearly 250 years, mountain holiday with a guide has a big tradition and a very special self under standing. European clients know usually, that they need to have a personal history of mountaineering before signing in for a big or difficult trip. I also think, that serious guiding means to consult potential clients about their goal, and to prepare them well in advance of the climb.

European clients want usually also to work on a trip and acting as whole team. For example it is usual, that European clients also cook on a trip themselves and on the other side the guide is mainly in duty for safety and making the decisions, tracking and the choice of a camp site etc .

Thanks Walter for an inspiring and educational interview. Best of luck with your Everest season this spring. You can follow Walter on his website

* Source : – Alan Arnette : 2010 Everest expeditions.

* Related Links :

Interview with Dave Hahn.

* Previous story :

Himalaya Spring 2010 expeditions.

2010 climbing season kick-off: Everest and Himalaya list of expeditions!

Everest 2010: Still Searching For Andrew Irvine and that Damn Camera!

Everest Clean-Up Above 8000m.

Summit Day on Mt Everest – amazing video.

The Deadly Side of Everest.

The Conquest of Everest – 1953 style : amazing video.

Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

Everest Spring 2010 preview: Kaltenbrunner & Dujmovits.

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

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Interview with Dave Hahn.

Author: Alan Arnette.
Courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization

Dave Hahn has always stood out to me the consummate mountain guide. While some will certainly argue this point, I have witnessed Dave in action a few times. Once in the Khumbu Icefall,  Dave was guiding a huge client. When I say huge, I mean 6′ 3″ 250+lbs – not fat just large, huge. The client was struggling with a big move in the Icefall and Dave was gently providing guidance in footwork. He could have easily taken on the impatient guide persona but Dave showed his patience. The climber made it. Dave Hahn

On another expedition, I was sitting in our tent at the South Col focusing on the howling wind. Our Guide was telling us to get ready to go for the summit. I clearly remember looking at my tent mates with a cocked eye. Dave’s voice came over the radio to our Guide, “We are going back to camp 2 – no summit for us tonight.” Our team was tuned around at the South Summit hours later.

Dave has earned his dues and a recognition he loves to despise – the most Everest summits by a “non-Sherpa”. More on this later.

Dave is a regular guide for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. and International Mountain Guides amongst other companies. Last year he guided for First Ascent/Eddie Bauer on Everest. His summits are impressive: 250+ on Rainier, 26 on Vinson, 19 out of 26 climbs of Denali. Also he loves to guide the Shackleton Crossing on South Georgia Island.

He is certainly an accomplished climber but also a worthy writer providing some of the best written dispatches from any climb. Last year he blogged for First Ascent and has for Great Outdoors for several years.

I asked Dave to share some thoughts on Everest and his upcoming RMI expedition. I was lucky to catch him at home in Taos where he is a professional ski patroller at Taos Ski Valley since 1985.


Q: Dave, After your first Everest summit, did you envision doing it for an American and non-Sherpa record 11 times?

I did know pretty clearly after my first Everest summit that I wasn’t finished with the mountain. But back in 1994 I didn’t dream I’d ever make it up and down 11 times. Such numbers seemed astronomical and unobtainable to me then… and I’m proud of the accomplishment now. But it is not a “record”. Apa Sherpa with 19 Everest summits, holds the record. Defining some “non-sherpa” record encourages an assumption that climbing the mountain is somehow easier for Sherpas. I don’t think it is.

For my part, the numbers themselves -and “beating” others to them, were never my goal. None-the-less I’m happy with the recognition the numbers have earned me. “Eleven Summits” can be a fine attention grabber and it sometimes permits me to then drone on about Everest history so that people can put such numbers in proper perspective.


Q: We often hear about how climate change impacts mountains and the trash on Everest. You have a keen eye for detail, tell us a bit about how the environment around Everest has changed over the years in terms if glaciers, villages, trash, etc.

It is obvious and alarming to see the thinning, or “down-wasting” of glaciers on both the northern and southern approaches to Everest. That said, I don’t believe that the climbing has substantially changed yet due to climate change. Logically, the higher and colder portions of the mountain will be the last places to be tangibly altered. Changes in weather patterns since 1991(my first year on Everest) are less obvious to me. It has always been pretty difficult to say just what “normal” is in such a dynamic place. My own perceptions are further muddled since most of my early career in the Himalaya was on the Tibetan side of the mountains, where patterns are substantially different to what hits in Nepal.

Villages on the Nepal approaches to the mountain have definitely grown, but not to the point of “sprawl”. The journey up the Khumbu Valley is still one of the best walks in the world. Coming in through China and Tibet, it is hard not to be astounded at the pace of change… but that change still pretty much ends just beyond basecamp.

Most would agree that the mountain is cleaner now than it was in the early 1990’s but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t still trouble spots and pressing problems to be dealt with.

Q: You are guiding for RMI this season. Will you acclimatize via the standard rotations through the Icefall to the high camps or do an alternate scheme thus avoiding the Icefall?

We will use standard rotations through the icefall. While it is plenty dangerous and demands respect, the icefall also does a good job of preparing climbers for summit bids. I see it, with all of its technical and physical challenges, as an important training ground. If a climber is incapable of getting his or her time of passage through the icefall down to a reasonable four or five hours (still more than twice what a loaded guide or Sherpa might do it in) then they probably will not be able to fit all of the challenges of a summit safely into one day.

Also, I have ethical concerns with avoiding the icefall while a team’s Sherpas are required to work in it on a daily basis. The idea of hiring high altitude porters is to have them carry loads, not to have them assume risks that we ourselves avoid.

Q: As a guide, what concerns you most about the profile of Everest climbers today?

Just as always, I want to know that climbers have done their homework and preparation and that they are realistic about their own smart limitations. I have these same concerns on every mountain I work and play on… and I have these concerns for myself as well.

Q: Obviously the Sherpas play a huge role on Everest today and sadly take the brunt of the deaths. Any thoughts on how to keep these heros safer?

There is such a thing as getting too good a deal on an Everest trip. Teams that are saving their members a heck of a lot of money might be doing it at the expense of Sherpa safety. As much as people will continue to hunt down bargains, it must be recognized that cutting margins too tightly doesn’t permit for a good mix of experienced and less-experienced Sherpas on a team. Proper leadership costs money, communications gear costs money, access to medical help costs money, contingency planning costs money, oxygen costs money. It is important to think through as to who will ultimately pay the price for skimping on resources. Of course, no amount of money will do away completely with the dangers… but we all have seen too many cases where small tragedies became bigger tragedies because resources were wanting.

Q: You climb all around the world, do you have a favorite mountain or area?

I try to stay loyal to whichever mountain I happen to be standing on when asked that question. I like each of my mountains for different reasons…. some because they are remote, some because they are convenient, some because they are hard and all of them because they are beautiful.

Q: How much time do you spend at home in New Mexico? What do you do in your time off?

I might fit in three or four months a year at home in Taos. Most of it will be in the Fall and Winter, while patrolling at the ski area up the road from my house. I’m not actually all that good at taking vacations and playing during my time off. Time spent not guiding has become time available for writing and speaking and answering email… but I do like to dream about hanging out on beaches and going rock climbing and bike touring and hiking and river rafting.

Q: Any additional thoughts for us Everest 2010 followers this year?

If Everest 2010 inspires you… read about Everest 1953… track down Everest 1963… consume Everest 1975 or Everest 1984… don’t quit until you are equally versed in Everest 1924 and 1999.

Thanks Dave for your time and best of luck this season on Everest. You an follow the RMI climb at their site.

Climb On!

Alan

* Source : – Alan Arnette : 2010 Everest expeditions.

* Previous story :

The Deadly Side of Everest.

The Conquest of Everest – 1953 style : amazing video.

Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

Everest Spring 2010 preview: Kaltenbrunner & Dujmovits.

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

*  Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Climbing Magazine’s Guide Zone.

Climbing Magazine’s Guide Zone

Adventure Consultants and THE ENVIRONMENT

As people who live very close to the natural world we are genuinely proactive in minimizing our impacts by educating our staff and guests in appropriate techniques to preserve the environment. With our roots in the New Zealand outdoors we have always been conscious of the need to ‘leave only footprints’ and we apply this philosophy to every venture we embark upon. Be it a weekend in the hills or a major expedition, we are particular about leaving the area cleaner than we found it.Adventure Consultants was the first expedition company to operate clean-up expeditions to Mt Everest and we were removing abandoned oxygen bottles from Mt Everest before well-funded ‘clean up’ expeditions became fashionable. In addition to our existing high standards, we practice ‘Leave no Trace’ ™ principles to minimize our environmental footprint.

American Alpine InstituteThe American Alpine Institute was founded in 1975 and since then has been dedicated to helping climbers raise their skills, protect the environments in which they climb, develop good judgment, and safely gain access to the great mountains of the world.

Though the Institute is especially well known for its advanced training and expeditions, its international reputation is based on its dedication to teaching (at all skill levels from beginners’ to masters’ levels), its high level of customer service, the outstanding skills of its staff, and its public service in the areas of environmental protection and public lands policy.

“7 Summits Club” is the Alpine Club for those wishing to climb all Seven Summits.

We have already carried out several successful expeditions during the year 2003-2006: 16 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized Elbrus 5642m expeditions 4 out of them in winter. 135 members successfully reached the Top of Elbrus. 14 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized Kilimanjaro 5895m expeditions. 105 members successfully reached the Top of Kilimanjaro 2 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized unguided McKinley 6194 expeditions. 22 members successfully reached the Top of McKinley 5 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized Aconcagua 6960 expeditions. 41 members successfully reached the Top of Aconcagua 3 times within the last 3 years “7 Summits Club” organized Everest 8848m expeditions. 31 members successfully reached the Top of Everest In 2004 and “7 Summits Club” organized Kosciuszko 2228m expedition. 14 members successfully reached the Top of Kosciuszko 13 members of our expedion in the season 2005/2006 successfully climbed Vinson Massif 4897m 7 members of “7 Summits Club”out of them finished “7 Summits” project – climbed all highest mountains on all continents.

Talkeetna Air Taxi

Talkeetna Air Taxi (TAT) specializes in
glacier landings and air transport to various peaks in the Alaska Range for climbers and back-country skiers.

Climbers are our primary concern and focus. Paul Roderick (owner), is a climber with experience on Denali and other peaks in the area. He offers first hand knowledge of route information, keeps an eye on current conditions and climbers, and adds insight into what it takes to climb in Alaska.

We feel that our climbing services go beyond what you might expect, since we are climbers, back country skiers and outdoor enthusiasts just like you. Paul Roderick, the owner, is the only climber/glacier pilot in Talkeetna and knows what it takes to climb in Alaska. The adventure possibilities in this area are endless, and we would be happy to give you some ideas and/or help you plan your excursion.

Mountain Professionals

In a market where companies are offering non-guided basement prices and delivering the equivalent in quality and safety, Mountain Professionals offers mid-range prices with high-end program delivery. We offer professional guides, the highest quality gear, the smoothest logistical delivery and we have no hidden fees. As a small high quality owner operated company, we offer personalized, small group programs in climbing, trekking and adventure travel.

Our commitment to quality and safety, our high end delivery and our competitive pricing makes us not only competitive but a down right better deal than the more expensive company’s…check it out!

www.mtnprofessionals.com

Alpenglow Expeditions

Alpenglow Expeditions was founded by Adrian Ballinger in 2004 after he worked for nearly a decade as head guide and director of one of the largest international guide services in the USA. Alpenglow Expeditions was created to combine our guides’ passion for climbing big mountains with their desire to teach others. We focus on high altitude expeditions, technical rock and ice climbing, and ski mountaineering on five continents. Our expeditions challenge climbers to become more efficient and competent in the mountains. Every one of these expeditions is run as a partnership between an AMGA certified guide and the team members, ensuring maximum learning, enjoyment and safety.

Alpine Endeavors

Alpine Endeavors operates year-round for rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering. We also offer specialty courses to help round out your outdoors skills in fly-fishing, canoeing, wilderness medicine, and Leave No Trace.

Alpine Endeavors will provide experienced guides who are concerned with making your outing as safe as possible. We regularly participate in a variety of different climbing sub-specialties including rock climbing, ice climbing, aid climbing, mountaineering, and extended winter outings.

Alpine Endeavors has the highest qualifications for guiding. We are Accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association, our senior guides are certified by the American Mountain Guides Association; trained in first aid, either as Wilderness First Responders or as Wilderness Emergency Medical Technicians; and Licensed to Guide in New York State for Rock, Ice, Camping, Canoeing, Hiking, and/or Fishing.

Chockstone Climbing Guides

Chockstone Climbing Guides offers the widest range of climbing services available at Smith Rock State Park. We are a guide owned and guide managed American Mountain Guides Association Accredited Guide Service. Our staff provides personal, professional and customized rock climbing instruction and guiding services for all ages and abilities. From the first time rock climber to those breaking into advanced rock climbing skills or professional instructor training, Chockstone Guides provide the highest quality service for their clients. We maintain low client/guide ratios to maximize the attention that each individual deserves. Our rock-climbing instructors and guides hold personal certification or training through the AMGA and all have wilderness medical training and certification. As teachers, our guides are committed professionals. Through our instructional expertise, dedication to your safety and enthusiasm for climbing, Chockstone Climbing Guides can help you reach new heights.

International Mountain Climbing School

The winter season of 2008/2009 marks the thirty-fifth year that IME and IMCS have offered comprehensive climbing instruction and retail services for climbers from New England and around the country. Our climbing programs are open to people of “All ages, All abilities, All the time”.
Our mission is to provide every climber with a safe, enjoyable and worthwhile climbing experience. Our long-term goal is to run a friendly, personal guide service that you will return to year after year. It’s a job and a passion that allows us to share the excitement of climbing and the mountain environment with you.

Along the way we will help you build skills and gain experiences that will make you a better climber and mountaineer.

San Juan Mountain Guides

San Juan Mountain Guides is dedicated to offering professional instruction and guiding that will contribute to a lifetime of safe and successful climbing. Our guides not only help you get to the top of your next big climb, they also share their methods and decision making processes so you can benefit from their years of experience. During our courses and climbs, we also seek to build and maintain friendships, and we pride ourselves on securing partnerships that last for many years. This educational approach and supportive atmosphere is the foundation of all our programs.

Our school is based in Ouray, Colorado located in the heart of the San Juan Mountains. We offer both open registration courses and custom programs designed to fit individual goals. Custom programs allow us the flexibility to structure the curriculum to meet each person or self-organized group’s specific needs and objectives. Either way, your outdoor experience will be not only instructional, but also personalized and fun.

Summit Climb

Our climbing expeditions maximize many years of accumulated wisdom leading trips to the highest mountains on the planet, a strong record of reaching the top of 8000ers: Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Shishapangma and many other high altitude summits in all safety, along with an intimate knowledge of the officials who regulate the permit system. We have conducted countless 8000, 7000 and 6000 metre peak expeditions, and consider ourselves specialists in identifying, organizing expeditions to, and getting teams safely to the summit and back down. We have been running expeditions for over 17 years and we know all of the bureaucratic officials, liaison officers, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs personally in the countries we visit. We must also give credit to our polite and highly experienced, hard-working climbing sherpas, high altitude guides, cooking, and office staff.

The goal of SummitClimb is to lead expeditions stressing 3 goals in the following order:

  1. Safety at all times
  2. Having fun, being part of a good team, making new friends
  3. Success in reaching the summit and descending safely
Southwest Adventure Guides

Southwest Adventure Guides LLC (formerly Southwest Adventures) has been conducting domestic and international trips and courses since 1989. We are not a travel agent. We guide our own trips with our own staff and support networks. Our courses and trips run throughout the year. In the spring and summer months we conduct rock climbing, mountaineering and mountain biking trips and courses in Southwest Colorado and Southeast Utah, as well as high altitude mountaineering expeditions and courses in Peru, Bolivia, and Alaska.

In the winter months we conduct avalanche courses, backcountry skiing, ice climbing and winter mountaineering trips in Southwest Colorado, as well as international high altitude climbing and trekking expeditions in Mexico, Ecuador, and Argentina.

All of our guides undergo extensive training and have many years experience in the discipline in which they work. Additionally, all of our Senior Guides are either American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Certified or Trained.

Find more guides with Climbing Magazine’s CLASSIFIEDS – Guides and Travel Section HERE

Check out links to guides, schools, travel information, and other climbing related services HERE

To get your company listed in the GUIDE ZONE
Contact Kevin Riley

Ph: 212-691-2921 Ext. 107
kevin.riley@skrammedia.com

* Source : – http://www.climbing.com/shop/guidezone/

** Previous story  : – Beginner’s Guide to Climbing.

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Berg Adventures International – one of the best mountaineering agency.

I Recommend …

Berg Adventures International – http://www.bergadventures.com/

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About Berg Adventures International :

Challenge, personal achievement, cultural learning and our unsurpassed dedication to your adventure travel experience — that’s the Berg Adventures promise.

Founded by world-class guide, educator and expedition leader Wally Berg, Berg Adventures International (BAI) is committed to travel, adventure, and learning.

Wherever we go, our goals for each adventure are the same:

Personal Achievement:

Adventure travel is always humbling. The accomplishments of exploring the far-off places and climbing high peaks can enrich lives far beyond the excitement of reaching a summit or the end of a magnificent journey. The preparation, training and dreaming that precede a great adventure are important parts of the total package. From a Galapagos exploration to the top of Mount Everest, from Marco Polo’s Silk Road to your quest to climb the Seven Summits, we will be with you every step of the way to help you realize your goals.

Cultural Tourism:

A deeply rewarding part of every BAI trip is connecting with the good friends we have made during our decades of trips on every continent. Your BAI adventure will be led by top guides who will help you immerse yourself in the culture around you, not stay apart from it.

Cultural interaction

Cultural interaction is a big part of a BAI trip.

Solid, Fun Group travel:

Years of expedition life have shown us the value of teamwork while exploring new terrain of the earth and the spirit. Through the intensity of your efforts in wild, demanding places, and the laughter shared along the way, expect to build strong bonds with your teammates.

We also realize that your journey may be intensely personal. With our high ratio of BAI guides and support staff, you can move at your own pace and still be fully engaged in the social framework of the team.

Communication:

We pride ourselves on having seamless communications.Outstanding Communication Wherever we are in the world, guides are in direct contact with BAI’s home office. Our state-of-the-art equipment ensures clear communications among all team members, too.

The Internet expedition dispatches we’ve pioneered since 1997 are perfect for sharing your personal odyssey. Family, friends, and associates back home can check the BAI web site each day for the latest updates and photographs of your travels. You can access all the reports and pictures from your travels whenever you want by clicking on our permanent archives. Check the Dispatches section of our site for archived dispatches from recent BAI adventures.

Unique Adventure Travel Itineraries:

The highest peak on every continent. The snow-capped summit of Kilimanjaro. Everest Base Camp. The vast wilderness of Antarctica. The Galapagos Islands. The summit of Mount Everest. Whatever your chosen destination, Berg Adventures goes where few others venture. Our personalized, uncompromising dedication to quality sets us apart from all the rest.

We tailor every journey to meet your expectations. Friends and family members sharing a travel adventure will find every aspect of the trip perfectly matched to their individual abilities and interests. Whether it’s group travel, corporate adventures, or charity and fund-raising climbs, we bring uncompromising standards of service and quality to helping you turn your dreams into success.

BAI trips are unique, too, because of what happens before and after our major treks and climbs. Our ascent of Mount Elbrus begins and ends in the captivating Russian city of St. Petersburg. We climb Lobuche Peak before attempting the summit of Ama Dablam. And a Berg Adventures safari is worth the trip to Africa on its own, and a great adventure to share with family and friends after a Kilimanjaro summit climb.

Value of Teamwork

Berg Adventures Knows the Value of Teamwork

Responsible Travel:

In an age of ‘Leave No Trace’ principles, we continue our long-standing commitment to ecologically sensitive, low-impact adventures.

Through cultural awareness and personal connections in the communities we visit, we have established goodwill and long-term relationships with many people around the globe. BAI’s staff members on every continent are well-paid, care about your experience, and are eager to share their cultures with you and draw you into their world.

We hope you’ll make Berg Adventures a part of your next great adventure!

* Source : –http://www.bergadventures.com/

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International Mountain Guides – one of the best mountaineering agency.

I Recommend …

International Mountain Guides – http://www.mountainguides.com/index.shtml

About International Mountain Guides :

International Mountain Guides directors Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Eric Simonson and Paul Baugher organize and lead climbing, trekking and mountaineering expeditions around the world, from the classic climbs of the Alps and Andes to the 8,000m peaks of the Himalayas. We continue to be one of the most respected and active guiding companies in the world. Since 1986 we have conducted hundreds of expeditions to destinations around the globe, and the fact that most of our customers climb with us again and again tells us we’re doing things right!

These springs : 31 Summits on IMG’s 2008 Everest Expedition. Dave Hahn Summits Everest for Record 10th Time.

Everest South Side Summit Climb with International Mountain Guides.

IMG’s Everest programs are recognized worldwide as simply outstanding, with a reputation for our highly professional staff of leaders, climbers and Sherpas, first-rate logistics and our resulting safety and success record on the mountain. Since 1991 we have conducted over forty 8000-meter expeditions and have seen over 300 climbers reach the summit of these peaks, including 179 on Everest.

For 2009 we are proud to announce an exciting array of Everest options with the IMG All-Stars, under the direction of legendary climber and expedition leader Eric Simonson. We offer something for everyone… from treks to summit climbs, and we have designed our programs to be truly unique and special.

.. more : – http://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south.shtml

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