Everest 2018: Weekend Update April 1.

Well, it’s the 1st of April and the Everest machine is fully operational. Climbers from around the world are streaming into Kathmandu and others to Lhasa to begin their journey to the base camps on opposite sides of Mount Everest.

For those just arriving, the excitement is palpable. For those left back home, the reality is just setting in. And for those who climbed last year, but are home today, their emotions are mixed.

K-k-k-k-k-k Katmandu

Kathmandu Airport GreetingWhen the airplane door opens, you feel Nepal. You can taste the humidity, the thick air of Kathmandu. Deep down you know that your first step onto the tarmac will not be the last time you make this journey.  Retrieving your bags reminds you that you have gone back in time by 50 years, perhaps to a small airport in rural Australia or Oban, Scotland. With bags on the wobbly trolley, you make your way past security noting the X-ray machine was unplugged. Your trust in the system is about to get the first test as you leave the airport and scan the line of drivers holding up signs. Then you see it, your name. Your tense and tried shoulders drop half an inch.

This scene will be repeated about 500 times just for Everest climbers this season, tens times that if you include trekkers. The Everest season is not just about climbing, it’s also about the lifeblood of a country. Between the trekking and climbing industry, it’s estimated to bring in tens of millions of dollars to one of the world’s poorest economies. The average income in Nepal hovers around USD$600. Giving the guy who helped move your duffle one meter a $5 dollar tip reinforces why Nepal loves tourists.

tourists.

Meeting Strangers

Meeting your team for the first time is always an exercise in human psychology. While you are certain that your experience and skills are more than sufficient to scale Everest, looking at some of your teammates causes you to question theirs! The time-honored process of forming cliques begins at dinner. You sort out who you want to walk beside and those you want to be separated from by a camp or two. Your guides make their first impression – type A personality or another “climber dude”. Regardless they will watch your every move for the next two months.

Climbing has been a male-dominated sport but that is changing and for the better. As more women seek to join the summit team, the nature of the sport has evolved. No longer is it acceptable not to bathe or brush your teeth for weeks on end. The toilet humor jokes now take three minutes to begin instead of the usual three seconds over breakfast. The solitary individual who makes every rotation a competitive race no longer receives the “attaboy” from teammates. Women climbers are smarter, faster and safer than most of their male counterparts. You would be wise to partner up now.

Bistārai, Bistārai

After two days in the Khumbu or crossing the border at Zhangmu, you question the wisdom of spending $500 on your new fancy, highly-accurate altitude watch. Time moves like a sleeping dog in this part of the world. The strict training schedule and diet that held you hostage for the past year has now morphed into a life of eating as much as you can and sleeping as long as you can. Yes, you are now living the dream!

On Kilimanjaro you learned Swahili for slow was “pole, pole” now you are learning it in Nepal, “Bistārai” or as Kami said to me often “No hurry, chicken curry” (never did figure that one out)! But language aside, there is a new pace to your world. You walk slow, eat slow, talk even slower. You actually pause on the trails to take in the view or at least get that great selfie to post on Facebook at the next teahouse. Yes, life’s great frustrations have shifted from slow drivers on the M4 to waiting for a yak train to pass by.

Under Construction

The base camps on both sides are scenes of challenging work. Before tents can be erected, platforms must be carved out of rock and ice on the Nepal side. The large tents used for cooking, storage and dining must be tied down to withstand high winds, especially on the north where it never relents making people yearn for a silent night’s sleep. Heavy trucks disturb the tranquility on the north while helicopters occupy the south. The days of a thousand porters marching in silent are gone forever.

A few teams for the 2018 edition of Everest have already arrived but most are still driving or trekking. All are hoping EverestLInk will be up on the Nepal side and ChinaTelecom functional on the Tibet side. Access to WiFi has become standard for all teams on Everest.

Relationships

I began this article with a mention of how people may be feeling. I have often written about the “ones left behind.” The spouse, friends, family that gave you all that encouragement for so many years. They hoped that this day would come for you. Now that it has, they are coming to grips with what life will be like until June 1. The climber knows what they are doing each moment while those at home can only wonder what is happening on the other side of the world.

For the climber, it’s show time. All the dreaming is now behind you. It’s time to stop training, wondering about gear, which guide to use and all the other thousand questions that have occupied your subconscious, and often your present state of mind, for way too long. If you are not excited today then your blood may already be cold. This is what you have been working hard to achieve, but it has also just begun. This is a marathon, not a sprint so relax and let every moment seep into your essence.

And if you were on Everest last year, or a few years ago, this is a tough time for you as well. Your memory is strong and alive with images and sounds of landing at Lukla, seeing that first big yak, hearing the monks softly chanting. One memory may shroud all the rest, that first view of the Big E from the Everest View Hotel. You sipped the freshly brewed instant coffee on the wood deck and let your eye trace the skyline of Everest, Ama Dabalm resting in the foreground. For a split instance, you saw yourself on the Southeast Ridge, struggling to take one step higher, gasping for breath only to lift your head to see teammates slightly above in the soft glow of headlamps. But this year, you are home.

Every year, April and May is a time of dreams and memories. It’s a time of review and plans, a time to let yourself go to a different place and time – even if it is only in your quiet moments of reflection.

The Season Ahead

The climbers are ramping up with their posts, videos, and pictures but not a lot thus far. I have a list of climbers in the sidebar with links to their most active media but click to see what else they are posting. These days people post to Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, SnapChat, blogs and who knows where else so it has become harder to follow 🙂

Remember that most teams will not enter the Icefall until mid-April. Hopefully a few will start early this year. I am updating my annual team tracking page that shows the current location of the majority of their team. I also use that page to post brief updates almost daily.

Not to be forgotten are those on the other 8000ers of Lhotse, Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, and perhaps Annapurna, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and Manaslu. I’ll report on those as available. But for now, here’s to Bob Seiger and of course, Kathmandu!

I think I’m going to Katmandu
That’s really, really where I’m going to
If I ever get out of here
That’s what I’m gonna do
K-k-k-k-k-k Katmandu
I think that’s really where I’m going to
If I ever get out of here
I’m going to Katmandu

See this fun video.

.. more on : – http://www.alanarnette.com/blog

Autor : Alan Arnette

* source: – Everest 2018: Weekend Update April 1

** see also: – Trekking – posts on my site :

Trekking in Nepal Himalaya : GOKYO, KALA PATTAR and EVEREST BASE CAMP TREK (19 days).

Everest Base Camp – CLASSIC treks. / Version polish and english /

Trekking in Nepal Himalaya : EVEREST HIGH VALLEY – Travel Guide. /Version english/

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Everest 2018: Zos, Yaks, Porters and Helicopters.

When planes, trains and automobiles are not available to move your stuff, you do what you have to, to move your stuff. And that’s what we are seeing right now from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp.

Pause for a moment and think about how much gear it takes to support a team, it can be overwhelming. Even a small team of a handful of climbers will have a couple of cooks, separate tents for dining, cooking and sleeping. Then the large teams add another few tents for storage and toilets. The high-end guides will have communications tent and even a “relaxation” tent.

All of this is at base camp where you live, eat and sleep for the better part of six weeks. Speaking of food, it also must be stored somewhere and there has to be fuel for the stoves, and sometimes heaters. Then there are generators, solar panels and on and on. Oh and don’t forget a few thousand oxygen bottles.

As you go higher, climbers share tents and often eat in the cooking tent.  Then there are the fixed ropes with snow bars, pitons, carabiners, ladders and everything else you need to actually move up the Hill. Regardless, the problem remains of how to get that gear up there.

So how does all the stuff get to base camp? On the Tibet side, it’s straightforward. Huge trucks haul it in on paved roads. However, it’s a different story on the Nepal side. Since Everest is within the Sagarmatha National Park where motorized vehicles are not allowed on the trails, everything is transported on the backs of people or animals or in a heavy duty helicopter. Lets first look at how the expeditions move their group gear to base camp and then how the personal gear is handled.

AirYak

Freight helicopter at Syangboche

It may seem obvious to just use a helicopter to ferry tons of tents, stoves, fuel, etc. from Kathmandu to the foot of the Khumbu Icefall, but they are expensive and risky. If one goes down with all your gear, your season might be lost. Usually a version of a Russian cargo helicopter flies gear to a relatively low landing strip close to Namche Bazaar, at Syangboche, at 12,410’/3782m. Any higher might be impossible given the heavy loads. From there, the gear is shifted to animals and people.

Most expeditions use a combinations of animals – yaks and dzomos aka dzo. This last beast is a cross between a yak and a cow and can haul loads under 14,000 feet. They are smaller than yaks but not as happy! OK, so how do I know? Well all I know is that I get happy seeing a yak, so they must be happy as well. 🙂

All kidding aside, yaks are huge furry beast of burden that can seemingly go forever at glacial speed. They are colossal animals with a full-grown male weighing in at 1,400 pounds and standing 5.5 feet at the shoulders. Yaks have three times more red blood cells than regular cows thus can go higher than their cross-breed siblings. Also their long, thick hair insulates their bodies from winter temperatures that can plummet to -30C (-22F) or colder.

Continuing with “more than you wanted to know about yaks”, they are most comfortable above 14,000 feet probably due to generations of genes nurtured on the high Steppes of Tibet where Nomads constantly moved them between summer and winter pastures at 14,000 to 16,000 feet high. They will forage for food as high as 20,000 feet in the summer but usually don’t go lower than 12,000 feet.  Today, many yak owners in Nepal will not let them go lower than Namche fearing malaria, parasites or other diseases, often carried by cows, sheep and goats. They are treated very well by their owners due to their cash value from expeditions and then their meat at the end of life.

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50 Parks to Visit in 50 U.S. States.

The U.S. has always been at the forefront of creating public lands for its citizens and foreign visitors to explore. After all, the country was the first to designate a national park when Yellowstone was first created way back in 1872. Today, there are fantastic parks to explore in every state in the Union, and Popular Mechanics wants to help you discover the best ones.

In a slideshow entitled “50 States, 50 Parks” readers will go through each state in alphabetical order, with the individual slides providing some information on the absolute best park to visit at that particular destination. So, for example, in Alaska you’ll learn that Denali National Park has earned a spot on the list, which is no small feat when you consider the fantastic national parks that exist there. The slide not only contains a brief explanation for what makes Denali special, but an epic photo from the location as well.

Other great parks that make the cut include Grand Canyon (Arizona), Yosemite (California), Starved Rock State Park (Illinois), and Mammoth Cave in Kentucky. I’ll leave the remaining 45 parks for you to discover, as it is a lot of fun to see what choices were made for each state.

It’s no secret that I’m a huge fan of the national parks, but there are some pretty spectacular state parks to be found as well. Thankfully, this list doesn’t count them out and you’re likely to discover plenty of new places to add to your “must visit” list. Check out the entire slideshow here.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – 50 Parks to Visit in 50 U.S. States

** see also: –

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Nat Geo Posts 2017 Spring/Summer Gear Guide.

Now that April is all but behind us, it is pretty safe to say that spring is in full swing and summer isn’t all that far off either. Of course, that means it is time to head back outside an enjoy all of the activities that the warmer months have to offer. Of course, the changing of the seasons is also the perfect excuse to add some new gear to your arsenal as well, and National Geographic is here to help.

The Nat Geo Adventure website had posted its Spring/Summer 2017 Gear Guide, offering up 20 new products that you’ll want to have at your disposal this year. As usual, the list includes a wide variety of items ranging from clothing to shoes to tents and much more. If you’re in the market for some gear, chances are you’ll find a good suggestion here on what you should consider buying.

Amongst the items making the cut are the new Suunto Spartan GPS watch, the Sugoi Zap cycling jacket, and  the Voormi River Run hoody, which I’ve also reviewed on this blog. Other products that earned a spot on the Nat Geo list include the Nano-Air jacket from Patagonia, the Nemo Wagontop 4P tent, and the Gregory Paragon 48 backpack.

This is, of course, just a taste of the items that are recommended by Nat Geo’s expert gear tester. There are plenty of other products on the list for you yet to discover. So go gear up and head outside. I’m sure you’ll find plenty of good ways to put your new toys to the test.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Nat Geo Posts 2017 Spring/Summer Gear Guide

** see also: – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/gear/

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First Pakistani Woman Winter Expedition 2010.

BY MIRZA ALI

The Pakistan Youth Outreach Second Climbing Expedition in winter to Mingligh sar 6050m was indeed amazing, Samina Baig being the first woman from Pakistan to go on a winter attempt in the Karakorum was a great mile stone in Pakistani women’s adventure history.Samina Baig who had topped Chashkin Sar Peak in August-Septermber 2010.This expedition was dedicated to all those who have been affected by the floods in Pakistan this year The team along with Samina set High Camp at nearly 5525m which was new for any girl from Pakistan in winter and pushed for the summit the next day. Due to extreme cold and insufficient clothing for Samina (due to financial constraints) mainly down jacket and pants, the team decided to return approximately 150m short of the summit. Samina reached the height of approximately 5900m. Later the weather turned to hell and we called off the Expedition however the PYO first basic mountaineering training camp for young school boys and girls was very successful.

Since Karakorum has different weather conditions, the winter arrives late November in the high mountains of Karakorum, according to the calendar year it has been said that December climbing expeditions are not a full calendar year expedition. However a few years back the Alpine club of Pakistan organized a climbing expedition to Peer Peak in the Karakorum which was named “Winter Expedition”. Similarly there was another expedition in November by locals which was also named Winter Expedition. Looking at the extreme weather situation in the high mountains, December and January is normally considered winter in the Karakorum, Pamir area hence the expedition is also Winter Expedition.

The expedition kicked off on the 8th of December 2010 after three days acclimatization in Shimshal Valley. We hired 12 porters, two cooks and Mr Yausaf Khan, former army climber as our expedition advisor. The first day was spent at Korband. During the winter days are short and most streams at different summer camp sites get frozen therefore the first night spent at Korband was pretty chilly and there was a lot of frost in the tents. After a steep climb of Ghar Sar the next day the team managed to reach Uch Forzeen in 9 hours, the chill was great though the day was sunny. Uch Forzeen provided us with good shelter for cooking in the hut but sleeping in the tent was pretty hard, at midnight I found my sleeping bag frosty and frozen half due to my breathing but a great adventure all the same! Uch Forzeen to Arbon Purian was a nice journey, the frozen slopes of Arbon Purian were nice for practice and play adventure in the cold climate.

It was longer in the winter from Arbob Purian to Shujrave where we set our base camp, the cold was great, it took us four days to reach Shujrave which is normally three days walking in summer. After two days of acclimatization and practice in Shujrave, Samina and Jennifer Rawlings (guest climber from Atlanta, Georgia, US) made it to the pass, the previous day, unfortunately Jennifer Rawlins got sick. Jennifer came to take part in this historical adventure and she believed it was a wonderful experience but truly cold! We marched up to high camp, Samina, Yausaf and Mr Tafat Shah, PYO Trainer, also Mr Yahya Baig and myself Mirza Ali, Expedition leader and Wazir Baig were the climbers in the team.

The high camp was settled at approximately 5520m, the night was terribly cold and Yahya and Wazir got sick in the night, however Samina was the first woman from Pakistan to experience such extreme and freezing temperatures at High Camp. The sleeping bag was icy in the morning, the weather was very pleasant but again very cold. Next morning we started our summit push at 8am, the stones were frozen and frosty, the chill factor was high but the sun did come out to favor us at the beginning. After three hours walk we reached below the glacier, changed our climbing shoes and dressed up for the next stage of the expedition. The snow was drifting and the upper layers were pretty frozen but it was complete sugar type beneath the upper layer. The climb was pretty tough going from the beginning, the layers start breaking and it was hard for all of us. Wazir was ill and returned half way, we climbed for another two hours when the wind and weather became very cold. Samina had a down jacket with no hood and this was not suitable protection for the extreme cold weather, the pants were not even down so that made it difficult to continue to the summit. We reached approximately 5900m, just 150m short of the summit, the time was running out so we decided to return since it was a step forward in progress and we naturally wanted to return home safely!

During the climb I noticed my video camera battery got dislodgedi was unable to make more video of the climb and i was not adapted with still setting of ISO,which also make bad pictures in the bright light, later jennifer helped me to set ISO setting on the way back to base camp.

The descent was arduous, the long ridge descent was tiring but we finally made to the High Camp. The wind was extremely strong and was to blow our tents off from the ridge, after preparing tea Samina and Yausaf left straight for Base Camp. We packed our belongings and tents to follow. Jennifer and Gul were down at the pass, we had planned to fix another high camp at Quz Sar after a successful attempt of Mingligh however it was not really achievable since other members were tired. We met them down in the evening it was then decided to have some rest and then move back to Quz Sar approximately 5900m and climbed an unnamed peak.

We reached base camp as the dusk was all around, Imran our “cook” welcomed us and served the meal. The night was cold and chills were looming, in the morning it was very cloudy and started snowing. We consulted Yausaf and Tafat the experienced climbers who then decided to call off the expedition, hence all packed, we left for Shimshal.

This expedition was an initiative for the youth and women of Pakistan to enter into extreme sports such as mountaineering, it was a myth breaking expedition for Pakistani women and youths whatever the outcome. Reaching the summit is the exception in the mountains; most renowned mountaineers find that the “fail summit ratio” is higher than success. When I took the decision to return 150m short of the summit, the Sir Edmund Hillary quote was the basis that he used for Everest mostly to avoid any chance of accidents. It was the right decision to go home safely since mountains never go away!

Right after the expedition, Pakistan Youth Outreach conducted a Basic Mountaineering School for boys and girls in Shimshal at Malangutti Glacier, the participants were from different schools. Among the participants there were Bibi Numa (10th Grade), Shumaila Biag (10th Grade), Mudasir Pannah (9th Grade) , Nargis Murtaza (9th Grade), Shah Dualat (5th Grade) ,Afsana Tafat (6th Grade), Muhammad Habib (4th Grade), Arshad Karim and Samina Baig.

The training was overseen by Mr Yausaf Khan former Pakistan Army climber and Mr Tafat Shah the best technical and experienced mountaineer, myself as PYO Founding President also supervised the training. Jennifer Rawlins Youth Outreaches main supporter was also on the training. The kids enjoyed the outdoor and the basics of mountaineering and wanted similar training for them in the future. The PYO’s objective is to encourage youth and women’s outdoor and adventure activities and spread this across Pakistan and world to bring a peaceful and healthy environment for youths and also encourage nature studies and research work on high mountain settlements and glaciers as well as study tours as part of recreation for fresh mind for studies!

The expedition was organized with help of individual donations, apart from individuals the Danish Embassy also donated for the expedition. The Danish support is to convey a different and positive side of Pakistan than you would normally see in the media and thereby to support development in Gilgit-Baltistan

We are very grateful to the Danish Embassy, Eloise Fox Peyman for donations. We thank Jennifer Rawlins “for coming to Pakistan in the extreme weather condition and becoming part of the team and giving a positive image to other women around the world showing that Pakistan is safe and secure as well as welcoming every folk to enjoy a Karakorum adventure”. We also thank Carol Anne Grayson for her support and article and hope to share much more in the near future about our projects. We also appreciate those individuals who sent their personal donations! We are here just because of you people and your support and hope to have your support in the future as well to make PYO objectives possible! Thank you ALL! Interested people can join us on our future trainings on mixed or purely female expeditions to virgin and other mountains in the Karakorum!

* Source : –  http://karakorumclimb.wordpress.com/

* Previous story :

First Pakistani Women Expedition – you can help.

Joint Pakistan-Danish Spantik Expedition 2009.

Pakistan’s 2010 season finale wrap-up: ACP’s summit list, new route on Spires, needed humanitarian efforts are still on.

* Related Links :

..on FB – http://www.facebook.com/note.php?note_id=100138206730481

http://www.asiadespatch.com/2011/01/account-of-first-pakistani-womens-winter-climbing-expedition/

http://ketpakistan.blogspot.com/

* Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

Nieruchomości on line

drytooling.com.pl

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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First Pakistani Women on Winter Expedition In the Karakorum Pakistan.

Author: Mirza Ali

First Pakistani Women  on Winter Expedition

In the Karakorum Pakistan

Mingligh Sar 6050m Karakorum December 2010

“A Quest Beyond Limits Part II”

Can Donate  Through the Link

http://pakyouthoutreach.com/donations.html

After successful joint venture of Pakistan youth Outreach & Satwa Guna to scale an unclimbed peak 6400m, Chashkin sar in the shimshal ,maidur  vilage of Karakorum , Pakistan youth outreach has been able to plan its 2nd historical adventure in the extrme  winter, this winter expedition is going to be the first pakistani women winter Expedition in Pakistan  women adventure history, Samina Baig who recently climbed an unclimbed peak and became the youngest woman mountaineer of Pakistan  to climb over 6400m,will be the woman mountaineer from Pakistan, the other woman Member of the expedition is Jennifer Rawlins ,one of the main suppter of Pakistan Youth Outreach,jennifer Rawlins is from  Atlanta United Stats of America . Along the team Mr. Mirza Ali Team Leader & Founding President of Pakistan Youth outreach, Arshad Karim, Salamat Khan,Yahya baig and the technical advisor will be Yausaf Khan a veteran Pakistani mountaineer and Ex-Army climber.

The team will climb a 6050m peak, Mingligh Sar in the shimshal Pamir of Pakistan, which was never climbed before in winter. the peak will be attempted via west ridge, climbed for the first time by Mr.Mirza ali and named, Thomas Johnese Leedert Route. The route is approximately 38 to 42 Degree, the technical level is high and need complete gears .the peak has traditional route which is south ridge.  This Peak has been famous among people for its nice ascent and summit view, including a nice view of Karakorum second highest mountain the savage mountain K2 and much more!

During the expedition, for acclimatization the team will also try to climb two 5000m mountains, Quz Sar 5850m Approximately and an unnamed and unclimbed peak approximately 5700m, the location of the peaks are close to each other at distance of three to five km.  All three mountains are at shimshal Pamir” shimshal pass”.

The expedition will start from shimshal valley ,the frontier village of pakistan, situated in the extreme karakorum ,sigregates Pak-China border and dividing point of Central asia. Shimshal village is well known for its rputed HP’s and rich culture and hospitalitty.  The village situated at 3300m above sea level ,the  temperature drops to -20 in winter. Having extreme weather in the village the extreme condition can be observed in imaginations how cold  that would be  on the mountains in the massive Karakorum!

Expedition Base camp will be established at shujrave around 4486m,from Shujrave these Mountains will be attempted. the expected temperature would be -30 to -40 (approximately)

The documentary of the expedition will be made for any leading TV channel, those who would be interested to  air it. The expedition gest is to Educate youth about mountain sports , give awareness and Promote women adventure, the second theme of the expedition is send a soft image to the world that the country is peace loving and every one is welcome to explore Pakistan, its also our aim to   expose pakistan adventure potential areas,  to show the world that pakistan is rich ,culturaly ,historicaly and its mountains are unmatched in the world, the beauty and peaceful Karakorum , Hindukush and Himalaya. These huge mountain ranges are  heaven for trekkers, photographers, culture observers, historians, researchers , film makers ,mountain and nature lovers. The  adventure potential area of Pakistan Karakorum  is  the most beautiful  and soul attracting , it’s the best  tourist attraction point in the world. The s roughness, beauty and fierce towering Mountains are all inspiring for all walk of life and interest.  the variety of adventure has been experienced by many world class adventure  lovers, trekkers and culture tour makers, its our  theme also to give exposure to Pakistan and its wonderful and unparallel beautiful mountains,valleys,glaciers  and also  encourage youth adventure and most top objective Promotion of women adventure.

The Expedition is solely Depends on Donations/Sponsors, if any one want to sponsor or donate our expeditoin as well as our program and future projects , we would thank and appreciate the favor! The second  Project of Pakistan Youth outreach, first women Pakistani women winter expeditoins , which is named “A Quest Beyond limits Part II” and the documentary will be of the same title!

Regards,

Mirza Ali

Ph # 0092-313-9992210

mirzaali1022@hotmail.com

We again appeal and thank you for your SPONSOR AND DONATOINS! FOLLOW OUR LINK TO DONATE

http://pakyouthoutreach.com/donations.html

The itinerary is as follows:

First Women  on Winter Expedition Mingligh Sar 6050m
SHIMSHAL -Hunza-Karakorum Pakistan
DATE DAY PROGRAM MODE STAY
12/1/10 1 Fly to Gilgit/Drive to Besham Flight/Bus Hotel
12/2/2010 2 Besham- Chilas Bus/Van Hotel
12/3/2010 3 Besham-Hunza Bus/Van Hotel
12/4/10 4 Hunza-Shimshal Toyota/jeep Home
12/5/2010 5 Shimshal Rest Home
12/6/2010 6 Shimshal-Furzin Trek Camp
12/7/10 7 Furzin Purian Trek Camp
12/8/2010 8 Purian-Shujrave Trek Camp
12/9/2010 9 Shujrave Rest Camp
12/10/10 10 Shujrave-High Camp Acclimatization Camp
12/11/2010 11 Base Camp-High Camp Climb Camp
12/12/2010 12 High Camp-Summit  (Quz Sar 5850m) Climb Camp
12/13/10 13 High camp-Summit (5700m unnamed/unclimbed  peak) Climb Camp
12/14/2010 14 Base Camp Rest Camp
12/15/2010 15 Base Camp -High Camp (Mingligh 6050m) Climb Camp
12/16/10 16 high Camp -summit Climb Camp
12/17/2010 17 Base camp Rest Camp
12/18/2010 18 Shujrave-Arbob purian Trek Camp
12/19/10 19 Arbub purian -Furzin Rest Camp
12/20/2010 20 Furzin-shimshal Trek Camp
12/21/2010 21 Shimshal Rest Home/Hotel
12/22/10 22 Shimshal-Hunza Bus/Van Hotel
12/23/2010 23 Hunza-Gilgit Drive Hotel
12/24/2010 24 Gilgit-Flight/Drive Drive Hotel
12/25/10 25 Besham/Islamabad Drive Hotel
12/26/2010 26 Islamabad End of Expedition HOME

* Previous story :

First pakistani girl topped up Chashkin Sar, unclimbed 6400m peak in the Karakorum Pakistan.

First Pakistani Women Expedition – you can help.

Joint Pakistan-Danish Spantik Expedition 2009.

Pakistan’s 2010 season finale wrap-up: ACP’s summit list, new route on Spires, needed humanitarian efforts are still on.

Himalayan 2010 wrap-up: the season’s soaked kick-off.

ExWeb special on Everest 2010: The autumn of the solo climbers.

Youngest On Everest Update: China Sets Age Limit On Everest.

Youngest On Everest Update: Nepal Grants Sherpa Permission.

Youngest On Everest: Worst Fears Realized?

Everest 2010: Busy Weekend At The Summit.

Everest 2010: Jordan and Apa Summit!

Everest 2010: Teams Moving Up, Summit Bids Tonight!

Everest 2010: North Side Summit!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Edurne Claims Number 14, Summits on Everest!

Everest 2010: Weather Window For Sunday?

Everest 2010: More Teams Prepare For Summit Push.

Everest 2010: Teams Hit BC!

Everest 2010 wrap-up: hello Base Camp.

Everest 2010: Jordan Romero Leaves For Kathmandu, Tibet Is Open!

Everest 2010: Tibet Still Closed? Ice Doctors Going To Work!

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Kathmandu Busy, Base Camps Showing Signs of Life.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 3.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest North Face International Expedition 2009, part 2.

Anna Barańska: My Everest – Mt Everest – North Face International Expedition 2009, part 1.

Kinga Baranowska and Piotr Pustelnik new expedition – ANNAPURNA DREAM Expedition 2010.

Himalaya 2010 climbing season: Tibet Closed as Spring Season Begins!

March and April Climbing Events by American Alpine Institute.

Everest 2010: South Side Update from IMG’s Eric Simonson.

Everest 2010: North Side Update from an Expert – Jamie McGuinness.

The Great Himalaya Trail Set To Open Next Year!

Everest — Gear For The Expedition.

* Related Links :

Previous on Pakistan clibmers: Stangl’s no summit

Previous on fall 2010 Everest teams

Newsreprot on Kuriki everest expedition – Mainichi daily news

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Expedition in Nepal with Peak-XV Treks and Expedition.

I would like to introduce one of agency from Nepal :

http://www.peakxv-himalaya.com/

Peak-XV Treks & Expedition (P) LTD is run by professional Trekking & Mountain guides, tour guides of English, French, Italian, Spanish, German, since year of establishment i.e. 2009. They are an adventure travel and trekking Operator company in Nepal for Operating tour, trekking, expedition in Nepal.

Expedition in Nepal

Mountain expedition in Nepal is one of the most attraction and courageous parts rather than high adventure trekking. This beautiful country Nepal is one of the paradise that has meet anyone who wish to conquer high mountains by their own foot.

This country is the land of world’s top most highest peaks including Mt. Everest is majestic crowned to the north. Eight of the world’s 14 peaks over 8000m including Mt. Everest (8850m), Kanchenjunga (8586m), Lhotse (8516m), Makalu (8463m), Cho Oyu (8201m), Dhaulagiri (8167m), Manaslu (8163m) Annapurna (8091m), are only located in Nepal. It is only from 1949, as far as the history of mountaineering achievements go, that any human tasted success in the Nepalese Himalaya when the team consisting of Bill Tilman, Peter Lloyd and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa scaled Mt. Paldor 5,928m. Tenzing Norgay, of course, went on to become one of the two men, the other being New Zealander Edmund Hillary, to blaze the first ever successful trail to the top of Mt. Everest in 1953.

We provide you with all necessary infrastructures to assist you in your summit attempt. We will do the necessary paperwork for expedition/climbing permits, organize all accommodation before/after expedition.

Expedition (above 8000m) :
Everest
EverestEverest – 8,848m, Central Himalaya, China/Nepal.
First ascent: 1953; E. Hillary, T. Norgay
The highest point on planet earth.

Difficulty
Mostly a non-technical climb regardless on which of the two normal routes you choose. On the south you have to deal with a dangerous ice fall and The Hillary Step, a short section of rock, on the north side there are some short technical passages. On both routes (permanent) fixed ropes are placed at the tricky sections. The altitude is main obstacle. Nowadays also crowding is mentioned as a factor of difficulty.

Kanchenjunga
KanchenjungaKangchenjunga – 8,586m, South-East Himalaya, India/Nepal
First ascent:1955; G. Band, J. Brown.
Kangchenjunga -Kang (Snow), Chen (Big), Zod (Treasury), Nga (Five).

Difficulty
It’s one of the largest of the peaks on the list and the way to its summit is long. This fact and the many short, but technical sections place Kangchenjunga firmly in the higher end of the list. The altitude is also a factor which solidify this.

Lhotse
LhotseLhotse – 8,516m, Central Himalaya, China/Nepal
First ascent:1956; F. Luchsinger, E. Reiss.

Difficulty
The normal route starts with a dangerous icefall. Crowding, due to sharing route with Everest can be a problem. The altitude and exposure on the final parts are contributing to the peak’s reputation of being one in the middle of the list in terms of difficulty.

Makalu
MakaluMakalu – 8,463m, Central Himalaya, China/Nepal
First ascent:1955; J. Couzy, L. Terray.

Difficulty
One of the more technical peaks and is amongst those considered hard climbs. Steep passages, both on rock and snow, exposure and avalanche danger makes this peak a tough target.

Cho Oyu
Cho OyuCho-Oyu – 8,201m, Central Himalaya, China/Nepal
First ascent: 1954; S. Joechler, H. Tichy, P. Dawa Lama.
Arguably the easiest of the 8000 meter peaks.

Difficulty
Technically speaking the easiest of the 14. No technical climbing, but large snowfields and long distances. Many climbers has don’t reach the true summit, as it’s located some distance from where you enter the summit plateau and is only marginally higher than the fore summit.

Dhaulagiri
DhaulagiriDhaulagiri – 8,167m, Dhaulagiri Himal(Himalaya), Nepal
First ascent: 1960; K. Diemberger, P. Diener, M. Dorji, E. Forrer, N. Dorji, A. Schelbert

Difficulty
Considered to be a hard peak to climb by the pioneers in the area, but it’s nowadays considered as one on the lower half of the list. The normal route on the peak have some short technical sections and some avalanche danger, but overall it’s a quite straight forward climb.

Manaslu
ManasluManaslu- 8,163m, Central SW Himalaya, Nepal
First ascent: 1956; T. Imanishi, G. Norbu

Difficulty
On the lower half of the peak’s normal route, avalanche danger is usually a main problem. Higher on the peak, the climb is mostly non-technical and easy. Manaslu has one of the higher death rates and is considered a dangerous peak.

Annapurna
AnnapurnaAnnpurna- 8,091m, Annapurna Himal (Himalaya), Nepal
First ascent: 1950; M. Herzog, L. Lachenal.
The first 8000 meter peak to be climbed.

Difficulty
Considered the most dangerous of the 14. The north and its original route is not that technical, but extremely avalanche prone. The south is of high technical difficulty and also holds lots of objective danger.

Expedition (below 8000m) :
Ama Dablam
Ama DablamAma Dablam – 6812m, Nepal

The normal route to climb mount Ama Dablam is from its South- West ridge. Most of the mountaineering beginners start their climbing through this Mount. Ama Dablam 6812m. Ama Dablam is a small snowcapped peak of 6812m lying in the Everest region.

Baruntse
BaruntseBaruntse – 7129m, Nepal

In between on the lap of Everest and Makalu Mountain, This Mountain was first ascended by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow on 30th May 1954.
They have climbed the mountain by the South -East Ridge.

Ratna Chuli
Ratna ChuliRatna Chuli – 7035m, Nepal Tibet Border

Lies between the border of Nepal and Tibet in north of the Annapurna and Manaslu, majestically situated above the Tibetan village of Phu in the western region of Nepal.

Peak-XV Treks and Expedition P. Ltd.
Chakrapath, Kathmandu, Nepal
Cell no: 977- 9841341038
Phone: 977- 01- 4721348
E-mail: info@peakxv-himalaya.com
URL: www.peakxv-himalaya.com
* Source :  – http://www.peakxv-himalaya.com/expedition

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