Himalaya Spring 2017: Bill Burke Heading Back to his Namesake Mountain.

Autor : Kraig Becker

Over the past couple of climbing seasons in the Himalaya, one of the mountains that we’ve watched closely has been Burke-Khang, an unclimbed 6942 meter (22,775 ft) peak located in the  Solukhumbu region of Nepal not far from Mt. Everest and Cho Oyu. The mountain is named after American climber Bill Burke, who has spent the past couple of years trying to complete the first ascent of the peak that bears his name. Those efforts have been stymied by bad weather, and in some cases bad luck, so far but, and after not being able to summit last year, it looked like it might be awhile before anyone would try again. But, it turns out that a new expedition is in the works, and Bill will once again be taking a crack at the mountain.

In a recent blog post on his website, Bill wrote “It’s a Go!” regarding a new expedition to take place this spring. Apparently, the team of Sherpas that he works with on this climb have made a reconnaissance flight over Burke-Khang and have spotted a route that will take the team up the mountain more safely. Last year’s attempt was blocked by a dangerous icefall, but in the months since they were last there, the seracs that made up the icefall have collapsed, clearing the way forward.

Bill says that there are still a few crevasses to traverse, but the snow is reportedly in good condition and the route up is much safer and more straightforward. There are a few sections of blue ice to climb, and the headwall on the way to the summit is described as “steep,” but everyone is feeling much better about their chances heading into the 2017 season.

Burke left for Kathmandu on March 1 and should now be in Nepal and making plans for the start of the expedition. Hopefully, after two years of being denied the chance, he’ll finally stand on top of his namesake mountain at long last.

We’ll be following Bill’s progress and adding a number of other expeditions to our line-up in the days ahead. The start of the season isn’t as far off as it would seem at this point and things will start to get very interesting in just a few weeks time. Stay tuned.

* source: – Himalaya Spring 2017: Bill Burke Heading Back to his Namesake Mountain

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First Ascent Supports 15th Annual Ouray Ice Festival.

Two weeks ago the First Ascent team traveled to Ouray, Colorado to celebrate the start of ice climbing season and to sponsor the 15th Annual Ouray Ice Festival.

Chad Peele at Ouray.

The festival kicked off with presentations by some of the most accomplished climbers in the industry: Caroline George and Andres Marin. Both took the audience through their fascinating ice climbing careers.

The festival also featured clinics taught by professional athletes, including First Ascent guide Chad Peele. Each clinic was specially designed for climbers of all skill levels, from beginner to advanced. The weekend also brought out highly renowned international climbers for the competition – and it was a packed house as the audience cheered for each one!

Overall, the festival proved to be a success, with nearly 2,000 climbers and enthusiasts showing their support for the largest ice climbing festival in North America.

* Source : – http://blog.firstascent.com/

* Related Links :

15th Annual Ouray Ice Festival.

* Previous story :

How Much Does it Cost to Climb the Seven Summits?

Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour Teaser Video.

Dhaulagiri 1960-2010: 50 years anniversary special.

Summit Day on Mt Everest – amazing video.

Interview with Dave Hahn.

The Deadly Side of Everest.

The Conquest of Everest – 1953 style : amazing video.

Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

Everest Spring 2010 preview: Kaltenbrunner & Dujmovits.

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

*  Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Interview with Dave Hahn.

Author: Alan Arnette.
Courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization

Dave Hahn has always stood out to me the consummate mountain guide. While some will certainly argue this point, I have witnessed Dave in action a few times. Once in the Khumbu Icefall,  Dave was guiding a huge client. When I say huge, I mean 6′ 3″ 250+lbs – not fat just large, huge. The client was struggling with a big move in the Icefall and Dave was gently providing guidance in footwork. He could have easily taken on the impatient guide persona but Dave showed his patience. The climber made it. Dave Hahn

On another expedition, I was sitting in our tent at the South Col focusing on the howling wind. Our Guide was telling us to get ready to go for the summit. I clearly remember looking at my tent mates with a cocked eye. Dave’s voice came over the radio to our Guide, “We are going back to camp 2 – no summit for us tonight.” Our team was tuned around at the South Summit hours later.

Dave has earned his dues and a recognition he loves to despise – the most Everest summits by a “non-Sherpa”. More on this later.

Dave is a regular guide for Rainier Mountaineering Inc. and International Mountain Guides amongst other companies. Last year he guided for First Ascent/Eddie Bauer on Everest. His summits are impressive: 250+ on Rainier, 26 on Vinson, 19 out of 26 climbs of Denali. Also he loves to guide the Shackleton Crossing on South Georgia Island.

He is certainly an accomplished climber but also a worthy writer providing some of the best written dispatches from any climb. Last year he blogged for First Ascent and has for Great Outdoors for several years.

I asked Dave to share some thoughts on Everest and his upcoming RMI expedition. I was lucky to catch him at home in Taos where he is a professional ski patroller at Taos Ski Valley since 1985.


Q: Dave, After your first Everest summit, did you envision doing it for an American and non-Sherpa record 11 times?

I did know pretty clearly after my first Everest summit that I wasn’t finished with the mountain. But back in 1994 I didn’t dream I’d ever make it up and down 11 times. Such numbers seemed astronomical and unobtainable to me then… and I’m proud of the accomplishment now. But it is not a “record”. Apa Sherpa with 19 Everest summits, holds the record. Defining some “non-sherpa” record encourages an assumption that climbing the mountain is somehow easier for Sherpas. I don’t think it is.

For my part, the numbers themselves -and “beating” others to them, were never my goal. None-the-less I’m happy with the recognition the numbers have earned me. “Eleven Summits” can be a fine attention grabber and it sometimes permits me to then drone on about Everest history so that people can put such numbers in proper perspective.


Q: We often hear about how climate change impacts mountains and the trash on Everest. You have a keen eye for detail, tell us a bit about how the environment around Everest has changed over the years in terms if glaciers, villages, trash, etc.

It is obvious and alarming to see the thinning, or “down-wasting” of glaciers on both the northern and southern approaches to Everest. That said, I don’t believe that the climbing has substantially changed yet due to climate change. Logically, the higher and colder portions of the mountain will be the last places to be tangibly altered. Changes in weather patterns since 1991(my first year on Everest) are less obvious to me. It has always been pretty difficult to say just what “normal” is in such a dynamic place. My own perceptions are further muddled since most of my early career in the Himalaya was on the Tibetan side of the mountains, where patterns are substantially different to what hits in Nepal.

Villages on the Nepal approaches to the mountain have definitely grown, but not to the point of “sprawl”. The journey up the Khumbu Valley is still one of the best walks in the world. Coming in through China and Tibet, it is hard not to be astounded at the pace of change… but that change still pretty much ends just beyond basecamp.

Most would agree that the mountain is cleaner now than it was in the early 1990’s but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t still trouble spots and pressing problems to be dealt with.

Q: You are guiding for RMI this season. Will you acclimatize via the standard rotations through the Icefall to the high camps or do an alternate scheme thus avoiding the Icefall?

We will use standard rotations through the icefall. While it is plenty dangerous and demands respect, the icefall also does a good job of preparing climbers for summit bids. I see it, with all of its technical and physical challenges, as an important training ground. If a climber is incapable of getting his or her time of passage through the icefall down to a reasonable four or five hours (still more than twice what a loaded guide or Sherpa might do it in) then they probably will not be able to fit all of the challenges of a summit safely into one day.

Also, I have ethical concerns with avoiding the icefall while a team’s Sherpas are required to work in it on a daily basis. The idea of hiring high altitude porters is to have them carry loads, not to have them assume risks that we ourselves avoid.

Q: As a guide, what concerns you most about the profile of Everest climbers today?

Just as always, I want to know that climbers have done their homework and preparation and that they are realistic about their own smart limitations. I have these same concerns on every mountain I work and play on… and I have these concerns for myself as well.

Q: Obviously the Sherpas play a huge role on Everest today and sadly take the brunt of the deaths. Any thoughts on how to keep these heros safer?

There is such a thing as getting too good a deal on an Everest trip. Teams that are saving their members a heck of a lot of money might be doing it at the expense of Sherpa safety. As much as people will continue to hunt down bargains, it must be recognized that cutting margins too tightly doesn’t permit for a good mix of experienced and less-experienced Sherpas on a team. Proper leadership costs money, communications gear costs money, access to medical help costs money, contingency planning costs money, oxygen costs money. It is important to think through as to who will ultimately pay the price for skimping on resources. Of course, no amount of money will do away completely with the dangers… but we all have seen too many cases where small tragedies became bigger tragedies because resources were wanting.

Q: You climb all around the world, do you have a favorite mountain or area?

I try to stay loyal to whichever mountain I happen to be standing on when asked that question. I like each of my mountains for different reasons…. some because they are remote, some because they are convenient, some because they are hard and all of them because they are beautiful.

Q: How much time do you spend at home in New Mexico? What do you do in your time off?

I might fit in three or four months a year at home in Taos. Most of it will be in the Fall and Winter, while patrolling at the ski area up the road from my house. I’m not actually all that good at taking vacations and playing during my time off. Time spent not guiding has become time available for writing and speaking and answering email… but I do like to dream about hanging out on beaches and going rock climbing and bike touring and hiking and river rafting.

Q: Any additional thoughts for us Everest 2010 followers this year?

If Everest 2010 inspires you… read about Everest 1953… track down Everest 1963… consume Everest 1975 or Everest 1984… don’t quit until you are equally versed in Everest 1924 and 1999.

Thanks Dave for your time and best of luck this season on Everest. You an follow the RMI climb at their site.

Climb On!

Alan

* Source : – Alan Arnette : 2010 Everest expeditions.

* Previous story :

The Deadly Side of Everest.

The Conquest of Everest – 1953 style : amazing video.

Everest 2010 season – Expeditions with any British Teams or Britons.

Everest 2010: An Interview with Phil Crampton of Altitude Junkies.

ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2010 Coverage Begins, Double Traverse Announced!

Everest Spring 2010 preview: Kaltenbrunner & Dujmovits.

How Much Does It Cost To Climb Mt. Everest?

*  Polish Himalayas – Become a Fan

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 8 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent. Himalaya wrap-up: over on Nanda Devi East.

Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ. nanda-devi-logo

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

nanda-devi-east-expedition-2009-_route

Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.

Himalaya wrap-up: over on Nanda Devi East.

27.05.2009 Nanda Devi East – – it’s over.

Expedition leader Jan Lenczowski writes today on the Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 website, that forecasts show no chance of a window before June 7, the end of  accomplishment time. They organizing porters and BC is packed up.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 team Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ, JAN LENCZOWSKI.

Nanda Devi -tablica Inscription : Nanda Devi East, 2.7.1939, first ascent, A. Karpiński, J. Bujak, S. Bernadzikiewicz, J. Klarner POLAND

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

** Previous story :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 7 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 6 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 5 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.

27.05.2009 Zakończenie wyprawy.

Niestety nie udało się zdobyć szczytu,  tym razem zwyciężyła pogoda. A oto jak uczestnicy wyprawy relacjonują jej zakończenie.

Wszyscy członkowie wyprawy Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 są już w bazie. Ze względu na fatalne warunki pogodowe oraz brak czasu na dalszą akcję górską, kierownictwo podjęło decyzję o zakończeniu wyprawy. Wszyscy alpiniści czują się dobrze.

Szczegóły w relacji kierownika wyprawy Jana Lenczowskiego: RELACJA
Atak szczytowy nie powiódł się z powodu złych warunków atmosferycznych (ograniczona widoczność i silny wiatr) oraz kłopotów zdrowotnych Jarka Woćko.

Szczegóły w relacji Daniela Cieszyńskiego z obozu II: RELACJA

Dzisiaj około godziny 10 czasu miejscowego, uczestnicy wyprawy odsłonili w okolicach bazy tablicę pamiątkową z inskrypcją: ” Nanda Devi East, 2.7.1939, first ascent, A. Karpiński, J. Bujak, S. Bernadzikiewicz, J. Klarner POLAND”. Pomysł i projekt tablicy powstał przy współpracy wszystkich uczestników Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009, z inspiracji Narcyza Sadłonia.

Relacja Jana Lenczowskiego: RELACJA

Nanda Devi -tablica W Fotogalerii znajdują się nowe zdjęcia z obozu II i odsłonięcia tablicy.

* Poprzednie posty :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 7 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 6 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 5 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 7 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ. nanda-devi-logo

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

nanda-devi-east-expedition-2009-_route

Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.

26.05.2009  The summit attempt not succeeded.

Expedition member Tomek Walkiewicz writes today on the Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 website that first attempt ended at around 6,900 m.

25.05.2009 The summit attempt starts tonight

Tonight Jarek Woćko and Daniel Cieszyński will try to get to the summit of Nanda Devi East.

Unfortunately during the weekend the weather changed at Nanda Devi massif. Visibility was restricted to 10 m and the wind was very strong.

Today the weather was a little bit better. Jarek and Daniel got to the heigh of 6900 m. Tonight they start first summit attempt.

23.05.2009 The Camp II set up

Today Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Marcin Miotk set up the Camp II at the height of 6500 m.

Yesterday they did not manage to leave the ridge and get to the height of 6500 m, where there is quite flat area to put the tent. They had to spend the night on the very narrow ridge.

Today everything went according to the plan and the Camp II was set up.

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

** Previous story :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 6 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 5 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.

26.05.2009 Odwrót

Niestety z powodu fatalnych warunków atmosferycznych ekipie szczytowej nie udało się zdobyć wierzchołka Nanda Devi East.

Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Janek Lenczowski wracają właśnie do bazy głównej.

Tomek Walkiewicz  – RELACJA

Nanda Devi East _plan3 Nanda Devi – na zdjęciu zaznaczono prawdopodobną najwyższą pozycję (6900 m) jaką udało się osiągnąć Jarkowi Woćko i Danielowi Cieszyńskiemu. Punkt jest zaznaczony schematycznie na podstawie relacji ekipy.

25.05.2009 Atak szczytowy za kilka godzin

We wtorek, 26 maja, Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński podejmą jedyną próbę ataku szczytowego. Z obozu II wyruszą ok. godz. 3. W obozie I na przełęczy Longstaffa znajduje się Janek Lenczowski. Pozostali uczestnicy oczekują w bazie.

Jeśli łączność pozwoli przebieg ataku szczytowego będziemy relacjonować na bieżąco na stronie http://www.nandadevi.pl.

Tomek Walkiewicz z bazy  głównej: RELACJA

25.05.2009 Załamanie pogody, ale akcja szczytowa trwa

Miniony weekend przyniósł przełom w pogodzie, ale też w akcji górskiej.

Sobota:
Obóz II (6500 m n.p.m.) został założony ponad skalną częścią grani, daleko za zaporęczowanym odcinkiem. Z powodu trudnego terenu, wykopanie platformy pod namiot zajęło 1,5 godziny. Widoczność na górze wynosiła tylko 10m, w dodatku wiał bardzo silny wiatr.

Jarek Woćko z obozu  II: RELACJA

Niedziela:
W niedzielę nastąpiło silne załamanie pogody. W bazie padał śnieg, powyżej 6000 m n.p.m. widoczność spadła do zera. Jarosław Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński czekają z atakiem na zmianę pogody.

Tomek Walkiewicz z bazy  głównej: RELACJA

Poniedziałek:
Godz. 8:00 czasu miejscowego W obozie II widoczność poprawiła się. Jarek i Daniel zamierzają wyjść w ciągu godziny. Dalsze plany uzależniają od zmiany pogody.

Rozmowa przez radio Narcyza Sadłonia z Jarkiem  Woćko: RELACJA

Godz. 10:00 Jarek i Daniel dotarli na 6900 m n.pm.! Jutro zamierzają podjąć atak szczytowy na lekko.

Nanada Devi 05.25 - zalamanie pogody Tumany chmur nad masywem Nanda Devi

23.05.2009 Obóz II założony

Dzisiaj Jarek Woćko, Daniel Cieszyński i Marcin Miotk założyli obóz II na wysokości 6500 m.

W dniu wczorajszym zespołowi nie udało się opuścić grani i dotrzeć na pola firnowe pod Wielkim Uskokiem, gdzie miał zostać założony obóz II. Po całodniowej wspinaczce na powietrznej grani, gdzie każdy błąd groził upadkiem w dwukilometrową przepaść, chłopaki musieli rozbić obóz na grani na wysokości 6300 m. Szczegóły w relacji Jarka.

Jarek Woćko  – RELACJA

Dzisiaj wszystko poszło już zgodnie z planem i obóz II został założony na wyokości 6500 m.

Na poniższym szkicu zaznaczono obóz II oraz 3 uskoki, które muszą pokonać alpiniści przed szczytem i które będą stanowić główny problem wspinaczkowy.

Nanda Devi szkic1 Szkic udostępniony dzięki uprzejmości Ricard Miquel z hiszpańskiej wyprawy, która zdobyła szczyt w 2004 roku.

* Poprzednie posty :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 6 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 5 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 6 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ. nanda-devi-logo

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

nanda-devi-east-expedition-2009-_route

Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.

May 20, 2009
(MountEverest.net) Nanda Devi East: Summit attempt brewing

“Marcin Miotk and Grzegorz Mroz have arrived at Base Camp – now all ten expedition members are at  Polish C1 on Nanada Devi East NewNanda Devi East,” the Polish team reported. “Weather is good and the climbers hope to reach the summit soon. Meanwhile, they’re fixing ropes on three pinnacles that rise on the way to the ridge.”

21.05.2009 Towards the summit.

Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński finished securing three pinnacles with ropes. Marcin Miotk, Grzegorz Mróz and Jan Lenczewski are on the ridge now, trying to set the Camp II at the height of 6500 m.

After a short break in the BC Jarek Woćko and Daniel Cieszyński set up towards the summit. If the weather is good they could reach it in a few days time.

Nanda Devi East_plan2a

Two days ago Krzysztof Wielicki, Piotr Pustelnik and Leszek Cichy took part in TVP1 (Polish TV) programm, where they were talking about Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009. In the programm there was also direct broadcasting from the BC and unique fragments of the film from the Polish expedition to Nanda Devi East in 1939.

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

** Previous story :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 5 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.

21.05.2009 Media o wyprawie.

Przedstawiamy linki do materiałów o wyprawie, które ukazały się w radiowej Trójce i programie TVP1 – Kawa czy herbata.

Fragment audycji Pawła Drozda „Trójka Przekracza Granice” (Polskie Radio).

W programie Kawa czy herbata o 70-leciu polskiego himalaizmu i o obecnej wyprawie na Nanda Devi East rozmawiali Krzysztof Wielicki, Leszek Cichy i Piotr Pustelnik. Bezpośrednią relację z bazy przekazali Narcyz Sadłoń, Jan Lenczowski, Tomasz Walkiewicz i Paweł Szlachta. W nagraniu można również obejrzeć fragmenty filmu z wyprawy autorstwa Rafała Szendzielarza oraz unikatowe fragmenty filmu z wyprawy z 1939 roku.

Wczoraj nie udało się nawiązać kontaktu z bazą. Obecnie trwa akcja szczytowa na Nanda Devi East. Prawdopodobnie Marcin Miotk, Grzegorz Mróz i Jan Lenczowski zakładają obóz II, a Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński ruszyli z bazy w kierunku szczytu.

Nanda Devi East_plan2a

Na zdjęciu przedstawiono ostatnią potwierdzoną pozycję ekspedycji (Śnieżna Kopa, którą zaporęczowali Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński) oraz planowane miejsce założenia obozu II na wysokości 6500 m.

* Poprzednie posty :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 5 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 5 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 led by Jan Lenczowski (Grandson of Jakub Bujaka – first ascent Nanda Devi East), the team : MARCIN MIOTK, GRZEGORZ MRÓZ, JAROSŁAW WOĆKO, NARCYZ SADŁOŃ, PAWEŁ SZLACHTA, TOMASZ WALKIEWICZ, DANIEL CIESZYŃSKI, GRZESIEK SOSIŃSKI, RAFAŁ SZENDZIELARZ. nanda-devi-logo

Goal:

Nanda Devi East (7816 m ) – they will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

Accomplishment time:

The attempt will take place between 20 April and 7 June 2009.

Description of the expedition:

The expedition will commence in 20 April 2009. The participants have obtained all necessary permits. They will attempt to conquer the mountain using the Polish route from 1939.

nanda-devi-east-expedition-2009-_route

Nanda Devi is the tallest mountain in the Garhwal Himalaya, and the second tallest peak in all of India. It consists of two distinct summits, with the main peak reaching 7816m with the secondary summit, known as Nanda Devi East, topping out 7434m. The entire massif is surrounded by a ring of challenging and tall Himalayan peaks, which helps to make the region, known as the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, almost inaccessible. The mountain is also viewed as sacred to the Hindi people, as it is named after one of their goddesses. Many consider it to be the one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – in review.

The Polish Team on Nanda Devi continues to work away on the mountain as well. They’re into their third week now, and have shared some great photos from BC, ABC, and further up the mountain itself. The team hopes to complete their summit push soon, and the weather is reportedly very good.

17.05.2009 Photos from BC, ABC and Camp I

Marcin Miotk and Grzegorz Mroz arrived at Base Camp. Now all the ten members of the expedition are at Nanda Devi East.

The weather is good and alpinists hope to reach the summit soon. In this days they should secure with ropes three pinnacles that protect access to the ridge.

You can see their current position at the photo below.

Nanda Devi East_plan1b
Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009, (click to enlarge).

In the Image Gallery we also present first photos from the Base Camp, Advanced Base Camp and Longstaff’s Col.

Obóz I na Przełęczy Longstaffa (5910 m)Camp I – Longstaff’s Col

* Source : – http://nandadevi.pl/

** Previous story :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009

– wyprawa z okazji 70 lecia polskiego himalaizmu.

Z okazji 70-lecia pierwszej polskiej wyprawy w Himalaje wyruszyła wyprawa jubileuszowa na Nanda Devi East.

Celem obecnej wyprawy jest przypomnienie o sukcesach Polaków w Himalajach i powtórzenie drogi z 1939 roku. Trzon ekspedycji stanowić będą młodzi himalaiści, mający już doświadczenie wspinaczkowe w górach wysokich. Wyprawa wyruszyła 20 kwietnia, powrót zaplanowano na 7 czerwca 2009 roku.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 – relacje.

19.05.2009 Turnie i Śnieżna Kopa zaporęczowane

Wczoraj Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński zeszli do bazy głównej po 5 dniach spędzonych na 6500 m n.p.m. Zaporęczowali wszystkie Turnie skalne i Śnieżną Kopę, zużywając do tego 650 m liny.

Zdaniem Jarka największe trudności południowej grani zostały ubezpieczone, co umożliwia poruszanie się z ciężkim ładunkiem.

Dzisiaj rano Marcin Miotk, Grzegorz Mróz i Jan Lenczowski wyruszyli na grań z zamiarem pozostawienia depozytu przed założeniem obozu II na 6500 m n.p.m. Obóz, który powstanie prawdopodobnie jutro, będzie kamieniem milowym akcji górskiej.

Jutro rano, po dwudniowym odpoczynku, na przełęcz Longstaffa wyruszą Jarek Woćko i Daniel Cieszyński z zamiarem rozpoczęcia kilkudniowego ataku szczytowego. Pogoda w dolinie Lawan zmieniła się. Od kilku dni nie pada śnieg, świeci słońce, potoki wezbrały.

Jarek Woćko  – RELACJA

Dzisiaj w radiowej Trójce rozmowa na żywo z uczestnikami ekspedycji. Oczywiście pod warunkiem, że uda się zrealizować połączenie. Audycja „Trójka przekracza granice”, godz. 15:00.

Obóz I na Przełęczy Longstaffa (5910 m) Obóz I na Przełęczy Longstaffa (5910 m)

18.05.2009 Nanda Devi East w programie Kawia czy herbata

W programie Kawa czy herbata (TVP1) było można obejrzeć krótki materiał filmowy przesłany spod Nanda Devi Wschodniej. W rozmowie poświęconej 70-leciu polskiego himalaizmu wzieli udział: Leszek Cichy, Piotr Pustelnik i Krzysztof Wielicki.

Zapraszamy również do oglądania zdjęć z obozu I na Przełęczy Longstaffa.

15.05.2009 Wyprawa w komplecie

Po trzech dniach męczącego marszu, który trwał codziennie po 12 godzin, do bazy głównej dotarli Marcin Miotk i Grzegorz Mróz. Ekspedycja jest już w komplecie. W tej chwili pod Nanda Devi East znajduje się 10 Polaków: Jan Lenczowski, Jarosław Woćko, Marcin Miotk, Grzegorz Mróz, Narcyz Sadłoń, Paweł Szlachta, Tomasz Walkiewicz, Daniel Cieszyński, Grzegorz Sosiński i Rafał Szendzielarz (operator). Towarzyszy im hinduski oficer łącznikowy Ganji.

Wszyscy są zdrowi i w dobrej formie. Aklimatyzacja przebiega zgodnie z planem.

Pogoda sprzyja alpinistom, którzy mają nadzieję na szybką akcję górską. Poniżej relacje Grzegorza Mroza z bazy głównej i Marcina Miotka z bazy wysuniętej.

Przedstawiamy także pierwsze zdjęcia z bazy wysuniętej. Zapraszamy do Fotogalerii.

Grzegorz Mróz – RELACJA

Marcin Miotk  – RELACJA

Lodowiec Lawan Widok na Lodowiec Lawan z Gęsiej Szyjki

* Poprzednie posty :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 4 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

** Źródła : – http://nandadevi.pl/

goryonline.com

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

AddThis Feed Button

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga