Himalaya Fall 2017: Manaslu in Alpine Style and Without Sherpa Support, Summit Bids on Dhaulagiri?

We have more news from the Himalaya today as the fall climbing season continues to unfold. More teams are arriving in the mountains and it appears that the weather is finally starting to stabilize, allowing teams to begin their acclimatization rotations more fully. For the most part, it looks like a fairly typical year so far, with the exception of Makalu being very crowded and Cho Oyu being shut down due to the Chinese closing the border into Tibet. Still, there is a long way to go until the teams launch their summit bids, and as usual I’m sure there will be plenty of surprises.

Take for example this story from The Himalayan Times. It indicates that two large teams have traveled to Manaslu where they will both attempt to summit the mountain in alpine style and without the assistance of high altitude workers. The group, which is being supported by Makalu Extreme Treks & Expedition, consists of at least 27 climbers who claim they are making the attempt to promote true alpinism in the Himalaya. All of the mountaineers are men, with the bulk of them coming from Russia, but with a strong international contingent as well.

The plan for this team is to get settled in Base Camp to acclimatize to that altitude while they get organized and sort their gear. After that, they’ll set off up the mountain without guide support and won’t return to BC until after they’ve reached the summit. When climbing in alpine style they’ll make slow, steady progress towards their goal, unlike typical Himalaya siege style, in which they would instead go up and down the mountain several times while they acclimate to the altitude and conditions. The expedition is expected to take about a month to complete.

As mentioned, Manaslu is a busy place this year. More teams have been arriving in recent days, with Adventure Consultants reaching Base Camp just yesterday. Other teams currently getting settled there also include Seven Summits Treks and Himalayan Experience, which is being led by Russell Brice despite the recent announcement that he would be spending fewer days in Base Camp. Reports from the mountain also indicate that the ropes are now fixed up to Camp 3 as teams begin moving up to higher altitudes.

Elsewhere, Alan Arnette is reporting that a trio of climbers is planning to ski down Dhaulagiri this fall. The team consist of Davide Gerlero, Carlo Alberto Cimenti and Matthias Koenig, who will dedicate the expedition to their friend Luca Borgoni, who fell to his death at the age of 22 this past July while training on the Matterhorn. The group hopes to summit later in the season, then make a full descent by skis if possible.

Finally, it appears that 78-year old Carlos Soria may already be preparing for a summit push on Dhaulagiri as well. According to his Facebook page the team has launched their bid and will be making their way up the mountain over the next few days. This comes somewhat of a surprise, as Carlos and his squad were just wrapping up a round of acclimatization. Apparently the forecast must be good and they feel ready to go. We’ll keep an eye on their progress over the next few days.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: –  Himalaya Fall 2017: Manaslu in Alpine Style and Without Sherpa Support, Summit Bids on Dhaulagiri?

** see also: –  https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/video/

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Video: Skier Falls into a Crevasse, Records it All on GoPro.

Ever wonder what its like to fall into a crevasse? If so, this video will help quell that curiosity. It features skier Jamie Mullner, who fell into a big crevasse while skiing this past December. Fortunately for him he had his GoPro recording and everything turned out okay, but it is a bit of a scary situation, especially as his friends work to find him and get him out. Definitely a place that most of us want to avoid. Check it out below.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Video: Skier Falls into a Crevasse, Records it All on GoPro

** see also: – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/video/

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Video: Pro Surfer Skis Giant Waves in Hawaii.

Yes, you read that headline right. This video takes us out to Hawaii where we find pro surfer Chuck Patterson taking on the notoriously large waves at Pe’ahi aka “Jaws.” Rather than riding his surfboard, he instead chooses to ski Jaws instead, complete with boots, poles, and the works. Surprisingly, this goes fairly well, although I wouldn’t recommend it to just anyone. Wild stuff for sure.

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Video: Pro Surfer Skis Giant Waves in Hawaii

** see also: – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/video/

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Which Countries are the Most Adventurous? One Company Thinks it Knows.

Ever wondered which countries in the world have the most adventurous citizens? A new study by a company called ShareaCamper claims to have figured out the answer to that question by studying the online search patterns for more than 40 countries and ranking the results. The winner, at least on this criteria? The Netherlands.

According to a press release put out yesterday, ShareaCamper – which as the name implies is an RV rental service – chose eight different adventurous actives, such as skydiving, skiing, and caravanning (aka overlanding) to be the basis of its research. Other terms included BMX, bungy jumping, hiking, rock climbing, and surfing.  The company then sifted through the Google searches for 40 different countries over the past 12 months to determine he number of searches made on the adventurous terms that were selected. The numbers were then averaged out for the time period to discover how many monthly searches were made proportionate to 100,000 citizens. This allowed countries with smaller populations to compete with larger ones, so it wasn’t just about the sheer number of overall searches.

After the results were tabulated, The Netherlands came out on top, followed by Australia, and Sweden. Germany and France rounded out the top five, with Denmark, Norway, the U.K., the U.S., and Austria all making the top ten. Surprisingly, countries that are well known for their adventurous activities like New Zealand and South Africa came in further down the list, ranking 16 and 39 respectively. Thailand came in dead last at number 40.

Whether or not using Google search terms is a good way to determine just how adventurous a country is would certainly be up for debate. Perhaps the citizens of some places simply don’t need to search for the activities that the would like to go out and do, as the options are easily accessible and don’t require much time on a computer. Still, it is interesting to see where the rankings fell based on those criteria. Where did your country land?

Autor : Kraig Becker

* source: – Which Countries are the Most Adventurous? One Company Thinks it Knows

** see also: – https://himalman.wordpress.com/category/travel/

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Himalaya 2009 climbing season, Karakoram and Himalaya wrap-up : Weather Window Closed on Everest.

As you know doubt have heard by now, the predicted weather window on Everest slammed shut overEverest area the weekend, with high winds and cold temperatures hitting the upper slopes of the mountain. A number of teams were preparing to make their summit bids late last week, with an eye on reaching the top tomorrow, but as of now they are all off the mountain, and safely back in Base Camp, eagerly watching the weather reports, and wondering when they’ll get another crack at it.

The First Ascent Team details what is happening in their latest video, available below. They talk a bit about their disappointment and frustration with being in BC when they’d rather be climbing, but they understand as well as anyone the need to be safe. They also reveal that their weather sources say that the next weather window is shaping up to begin around the 17th of the month, which is next Sunday, so for now, they’ll make that their target.

The IMG Team was actually attempting to reach the summit earlier today, and according to Alan Arnette, they climbed above the Yellow Band before bad weather turned them back. The IMG dispatches say the team returned to C2 safely and were descending back to BC to rest.

The Peak Freaks report that it is snowing on Everest today, but in a glass half-full approach, they also see that as a good thing. Snow will allow them to create steps on the Lhotse Face, making the climb safer, as they’ve mostly been dealing with ice up until now. They also speculate that the Monsoon may have come early, although that seems highly unlikely. They are probably just experiencing some typical precipitation that has been long overdue.

The Adventure Consultants Team is back in BC as well, but they’re returning from the opposite direction of most others. While some teams were planning their early summit bids, the AC squad went down valley to Pheriche for a little rest. They’ve returned to base camp now, and are waiting and watching along with everyone else.

As a side note on Everest, anyone else think that David Tait is laughing and relaxing right about now? You may recall that David climbed up the mountain behind the five Sherpas who finished setting the fixed ropes last week, and claimed the first summit of the season fro a westerner. He came down in one piece and is now done for the year, while the rest of the poor schmucks sit in BC waiting and watching. For all we know, David’ back in Kathmandu, kicking it at the Rumdoodle, a frost beer in hand, and laughing at the others.

Moving away from Everest for a moment, we have some updates from other expeditions in the region. Over on Nanda Devi, the Polish Team has established their base camp and are now scouting the mountain for the best approach. It has been several days since their last dispatch however, and it is quite possible that they have established a couple of high camps by now as well.

Finally, our friends on the Ski The Himalaya Team continue to make progress on Baruntse continue to make progress as well. They are now above 21,500 feet, with Camp 3 firmly established, following a very long technical climb. The team is hoping to complete this new route to the 23,390 foot summit before stepping into their skis and gliding back down the mountain. If all goes as planned, they could be making their summit bid later this week.

* Source :  – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** See :

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 3 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 5. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz.5. /Version english and polish/


** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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